IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


V 


{/ 


V4 


A 


1.0 


i  I.I 


1.25 


i^  m 


1^  1^ 


lU 


2.2 


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1^  1^  IIIIIM 


1.8 


U    ill  1.6 


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PhotDgraohic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER, N.Y.  I4S80 

(716)  872-4503 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


D 


D 


D 


D 
D 


D 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommagde 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurde  et/ou  pelliculde 


I      I    Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


I      I    Coloured  maps/ 


Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


I      I    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli6  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  Siure  serr6e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intdrieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajoutdes 
iors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  dtait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6X6  fllmdes. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppldmentaires: 


L'Institut  a  microfilmd  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  dtd  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exempiaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mdthode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquds  ci-dessous. 


I      I    Coloured  pages/ 


D 
D 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommag^es 


□    Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurdes  et/ou  pellicul6es 

H  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  ddcolordes,  tachetdes  ou  piqudes 

□    Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ddtachdes 

EShowthrough/ 
Transparence 

□    Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Qualitd  indgale  de  I'impression 

□    Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppldmentaire 


Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feulllet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  filmdes  d  nouveau  de  faqon  6 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmd  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqud  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

y 

12X 

16X 

20X 

24X 

28X 

32X 

ire 

details 
les  du 
modifier 
ler  une 
filmage 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

National  Library  of  Canada 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


L'exemplaire  film6  fut  reproduit  grdce  k  la 
g6ndrosit6  de: 

Bibliothdque  nationale  du  Canada 


Les  images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettetd  de  l'exemplaire  filmd,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


^es 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimde  sont  filmds  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  film6s  en  commenpant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  —^-(meaning  "CON- 
TINUED "),  or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparattra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  — *>signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  §tre 
film6s  A  des  taux  de  reduction  diffdrents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  cliche,  il  est  filmd  d  partir 
de  Tangle  sup6rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  n^cessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mdthode. 


'  errata 
d  to 


e  pelure, 
;on  d 


n 

32X 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

SKETCHES 

OF 

LOWER    CANADA, 

HISTORICAL  .4JVD  BESCHIPTIYE ; 

WiTH  THE  author's  RECOLLECTIONS  OF 

THE  SOIL,  AND  ASPECT; 

THE 

MORALS,  HABITS,  AND  RELIGIOUS  INSTITUTIONS, 

OF 

THAT  ISOLATED  COUS^TRF; 

DURING 

A    TOUR   TO    QUEBEC, 

IN  THE  MONTH  OF  JULY,  1817. 

BY  JOSEPH  SANSOM,  ESQ. 

MEMBER  OF   THE    AMERICAN   PHILOSOPHICAL    SOCIETV, 
AUTHOR  OF   LETTKRS   FROM    EUROPE,    &C. 

Most   JValional    Habitudes  are  the,  Result  of  unobserved 
Causes  and  JVecessilies.  Gray. 

NEW -YORK:    ' 

PRINTED    FOR  KIRK   &L  MERCEIN. 
1817. 


->40  ?, 


)i 


A'l 


Southern  District  of  New-York,  SS. 

BE  IT  REMEMBERED,  That  on  the  twentieth  day 
of  September,  in  the  forty-second  year  of  the  Independence 
of  the  United  States  of  America,  Kirk  k.  Mercein,  of  the 
said  District,  have  deposited  in  this  Office  the  title  of  a  Book, 
the  right  whereof  they  claim  as  Proprietors, in  the  words 
and  figures  followin: ,  'o  wit : 

<'  Sketches  of  Lower  Canada,  Historical  and  Descriptive'; 
with  the  Author's  Recollections  of  the  Soil  and  Aspect ;  the 
Morals,  Habits,  and  Religious  Institutions,  of  that  Isolated 
Country  ;  during  a  Tour  to  Quebec,  in  the  month  of  July, 
1817.  By  Joseph  Sansom,  Esq.  Member  of  the  American 
Philosophical  Society,  Author  of  Letters  from  Europe,  Lc. 
Most  Xational  Habitudes  are  the  Result  of  unobserved  Causes 
and  JVecessities.  Gray. 

In  conformity  to  tlie  Act  of  the  Congress  of  the  United 
States,  entitled  "  An  Act  for  the  encouragement  of  Learning, 
by  securing  the  copies  of  Maps,  Charts,  and  Books,  to  the 
Authors  and  Proprietors  of  such  copies,  during  the  time 
therein  mentioned."  And  also  to  an  Act,  entitled  "an  Act, 
supplementary  to  an  Act  entitled  an  Act  for  the  encourage- 
ment of  Learning,  by  securing  (he  copies  of  Maps,  Charts, 
and  Books,  to  the  Authors  and  Proprietors  of  such  copies, 
during  the  times  therein  mentioned,  and  extending  the 
benefits  thereof  to  the  arts  of  designing,  engraving,  and 
<^trhing  historical  and  other  prints." 

ROBERT  FINN,  Clerk  of  the 

Southern  District  of  New-York- 


\ 


itietli  day 
ipendence 
in,  of  the 
of  a  Book, 
the  words 

jscrlptive"; 

spect ;  the 

at  Isolated 

h  of  July, 
American 

urope,  &.C. 

red  Causes 
Gray. 

the  United 
Learning, 

oks,  to  the 
the  time 
«  an  Act, 
nconrage- 

|ps,  Cliarts, 

ch  copies, 

nding  the 

ving,  and 

the 
H'ew-York- 


TO 


DE  WITT  CIAKTOX, 


'GOVERNOR    OF    THE    STATE    OF    NEW-YORK; 


Tins 


WORK 

RESPECTFULLY  DEDICATED; 

AS    A   TOKEN   OF   ESTEEM, 
FOR  THE  SERVICES,  WHICH  HE  HAS   RENDEREP. 

TO   THE 

SCIENCE,  AND  LITERATURE,, 

OF 

HIS  COTWTRr. 


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PRELIMINARY  OBSERVATIONS. 


It  is  of  importance  that  noighbouring  Nations 
should  be  acquainted  with  each  other,  that  they 
may  form  a  just  estimate  of  one  anothers/rten<?- 
aJiip,  or  enmity ;  and,  for  this  purpose  they 
should  see,  as  much  as  possible,  with  their  own 
eyes  ;  not  through  the  medium  of  partial,  or 
interested.  Observers  ;  by  whose  wilful,  or  de- 
signing misrepresentations,  Governments  are 
often  led  irito  fatal  errors,  in  estimating  the 
temper,  or  the  resources  of  each  other. 

Who  can  suppose  that  if  England — the  self- 
styled  Mistress  of  the  Ocean,  had  not  been  de- 
ceived by  the  disparaging  Narratives  of  superfi- 
cial Travellers  (hapjDy  in  the  gratification  of 
National  prejudice,  at  the  expense  of  truth)  she 
would  have  inconsiderately  provoked  an  unne- 
cessary struggle,  in  which  her  gallant  Navy  for- 

A  2 


0 


feited  the   reputation  of  nautical  invincibility, 
in  the  eyes  of  all  Europe  ? 

We  have  hitherto  had  no  accounts  of  Cana- 
da written  by  American  Travellers.  We  have 
only  seen  our  next  Neighbours,  through  the 
magnifying  glasses  of  superficial  Observers  ; 
who  inverted  the  telescope,  when  they  con- 
templated Independent  America  ;  and  we  have 
accordingly  no  information,  upon  which  we  can 
rely,  of  the  sentiments  of  the  People,  or  the 
comparative  situation,  and  future  prospects  of 
that  Country.  We  know  not  whether  the 
French,  in  Canada,  are  to  be  dreaded,  as 
Enemies ;  or  conciliated  as  Friends. 


The  Author  of  the  following  Work,  when  it 
was  put  to  press  (after  having  been  hastily 
written,  from  penciled  memorandums,  during  a 
fortnights  stay  at  Ballstown  and  Saratoga)  had 
no  idea  of  any  thing  more  than  a  simple  Narra- 
tive of  a  Journey,  during  which  some  interest- 
ing circumstances  had  unexpectedly  occurred  ; 
and  the  title,  printed  on  the  first  page,  is  ac- 
cordingly "  A  Trip  to  Canada."  But  the 
Composition  insensibl3r  assuming  a  more  his- 
torical and  scientific  form,  in  going  through  the 


cibllity. 


f  Cana- 
e  have 
jgh  the 
lervers  ; 
;y  con- 
ve  have 
we  can 
or  the 
)ects  of 
er  the 
ied,  as 


f)ress,  amidst  the  Libraries  of  New- York,  it  was 
decided,  in  a  Literary  circle,  at  Dr.  Hosack's, 
that  the  scope  of  ihe  Work  demanded  a  more 
elaborate  designation  :  and  the  title  has  been  ac- 
cordingly varied  to  that  of  "  Sketches  of 
Lower  Canada,  historical  and  descriptive  ;"  the 
discrepancy  of  which,  with  the  style  and  matter 
of  a  Book  of  Travels,  may  possibly  be  ex- 
cused by  the  Learned ;  in  favour  of  the  obvious 
occasion  for  more  general  views  of  Society 
on  the  American  Continent,  than  have  hitherto 
obtained,  either  at  home,  or  abroad. 

New-York,  Sept.  20th,  1817. 


when  it 

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TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


Oiilsot  from  Phlladnlphia  ....         Page  I 

The  City  of  New-York               16 

The  Navigation  of  the  North  River           ...  23 

Journey  from  Albany  to  Lake  Champlaiu           .        .  32 

Lake  Champlain         .               37 

Montreal             48 

Voyage  down  the  St.  Lawrence         .        .        ,        .  50 

The  Town  of  William  Henry             ....  56 

The  Lake  of  St.  Pierre               68 

The  Town  of  Three  Rivers 60 

General  Montgomery 63 

Quebec               65 

Genera!  Wolfe             69 

The  Hotel  Dieu 78 

The  Cathedral  of  Quebec 83 

The  Chapel  of  the  Ursulines              ....  88 

The  General  Hospital  and  the  White  Nuns        .        .  92 

J.  B.  Le  Chevalier  de  St.  Vallier,  Bishop  of  Qiiebcc  95 

The  Legislature  of  Canada                 ....  97 

Pedestrian  Excursion  to  the  Falls  of  Montmorency  100 
The  Indian  Village  of  Loretto            .        .        .        .118 

The  first  Bishop  of  Quebec 126 

T'he  Climate  of  Canada              129 

Political  Lucubrations 137 

Return  to  Montreal  by  Land              .        .        ,       ^.  HT 


iPointe  aux  Trembles 

Three  Rivers,  again  ,        , 

The  Commissioners  at  St.  Kegis 

Montreal,  again 

The  Church  and  Monastery  of  fhe  Recollets 

North  Western  Trade 

The  Foreign  Trade  of  Canada 

Expenses  of  Govrnnient 

The  Chapel  of  the  Dames  Noirs 

The  Grey  Sisters,  or  General  Hospital 

American  Longevity 

The  Cathedral  of  Montreal 

The  Catholic  Seminary 

Nelson's  Pillar 

The  Peasantry  of  Canada  . 

Physiological  RemL^rks 

Statistical  Notices 

Circumstances  unfavourable  to  Population 

Civil  History  of  Canada     . 

The  ancient  Noblesse 

The  President's  Tour 

The  Grand  Canal  of  the  Lakes 

The  Rapids  of  the  St.  Lawrence 

Return  to  the  United  States 


Page  150 
163 
168 
187 
191 
197 
201 
202 
206 
211 
213 
218 
228 
234 
23  J» 
23T 
241 
24Q 
249 
287 
291 
293 
294 
300 


INDEX  TO  THE  NOTES. 


Uccurrcnces  nearBiun»v;Ick    -        -        -      ,- 
Account  of  the  City  Hotel,  at  New- York 
Description  of  the  new  Steam  Boat,  Chancelloi"  Liv- 


ingston 


15 

22 

64 


11 


Page  150 
163 
168 
187 
191 
197 
201 
202 
206 
211 
213 
218 
228 
234 
23.1 
23T 
241 
246 
249 
287 
291 
293 
294 
300 


Geological  reflections,   occasioned  by  the  Falls 

of  Montmorency               ....      Page  10C> 

Description  of  the  River  Saguenay            -        -        -  118 

Naturalline  of  Demarcation,  at  Three  Rivers   -        -  139 

The  zeal  of  Lewis  XIII.  for  converting  the  Indians     -  147 

Solemn  Representation  of  the  Fall  of  Bonaparte         -  170 

The  Seigneurie  of  Gros  Bois 176 

Description  of  the  Bark  Canoes  employed  in  the 

North  Western  Trade 198 

Epitaph  of  Jeanne  Lebel 210 

The  Opinions  of  king  David,  and  of  the  Philosopher 

Seneca  respecting  symbolic   worship         -         -  221 

An  Itc-m  of  the  Catholic  Catechism         ...  227 

Manner  of  holding  Lands  of  the  Seigneurs        -         -  247 

Description  of  the  Banks  of  Newfoundland      -         -  250 

Memorable  saying  of  a  converted    Indian           -         -  269 
Humorous  account  of  the  behaviour  of  the  English 

to  the  Indians  during  the  first  Conquest  of  Canada  271 
The  disgraceful  Incursions  of    Generals    Hull  and 

Smythe              28# 


THE  APPENDIX. 


Iiv- 


15 
22 

64 


Natural  History  of  the  Beaver  of  Canada         -  No.  1 

Critical  Observations  upon  Bouchette's  Topographical 

Accountof  Lower  Canada  -        -        -        -       II. 

Historical  Memento  of  the  Iroquois  or  Five  Nations, 

of  the  West HI. 


\  f 


TRIP  TO  CANADA. 


Under  the  impressions  hinted  at 
in  my  prefatory  remarks,  at  3  o'clock 
P.  M.  on  the  30th  day  of  June,  1817, 
I  stepped  on  board  of  the  Bristol 
Steam  Boat,  at  Market-Street  wharf, 
with  a  portmanteau  containing  nothing 
more  than  was  absolutely  necessary,  a 
cane  in  my  hand,  and  Thomson's  Sea- 
sons in  my  pocket ;  but  no  other  com- 
panions excepting  such  as  I  might  meet 
with  in  the  public  conveyances,  who 
may  be  not  inaptly  considered  the  Tour- 
ist's Family,  as  the  Inn  is  said  to  be 
the  Traveller's  home. 


B 


14 

We  reached  Bristol  in  due  time  and 
in  perfect  safety  from  moving  accidents 
by  fire  or  floods  notwithstanding  the  real- 
ly terrifying  explosions  that  have  late- 
ly happened  on  board  of  these  accom- 
modatory  conveyances,  I  having  pur- 
posely avoided  the  superior  expedition 
which  is  promised  by  the  Steam  Boat 
Etna,  for  the  sake  of  ease  and  safety, 
under  the  graduated  force  of  what  is 
called  the  lower  pressure,  for  whose 
secure  operation  we  are  indebted  to 
the  late  ingenious  Robert  Fulton  of 
New-York. 


i  1 


We  started  immediately  from  Bristol 
in  the  York  Stage,  one  of  the  six  or 
seven  passengers  being  a  Creole  from 
New-Orleans,  who  had  already  travel- 
led in  similar  conveyances,  fifteen  hun- 
dred miles  an  end. 


We  lodged  at  Princeton  that   night, 
entered  the  Steam  Boat  Sea  Horse  at 


ime  and 
Lccidents 
the  real- 
ive  late- 
e  accom- 
ing  pur- 
Lpedition 
am  Boat 
d  safety, 
what  is 
r  whose 
sbted  to 
ulton   of 


Bristol 
e  six  or 
)le  from 

travel- 
en  hun- 


;   night, 
orse  at 


15 

Elizabethtown  Point,  and  landed  at 
New-York  time  enough  to  dine  at  the 
City-Hotel,  a  place  of  entertainment, 
little,  if  at  all,  inferior  to  the  London 
Tavern,  or  the  Red  House  at  Frankfort, 
so  much  and  so  justly  celebrated  by 
European  Travellers.* 

^  Before  entering  Brunswick,  op  between  that  ancient 
town  which  preserves  so  much  of  the  neatness  and  formali- 
ty of  its  primitive  Inhabitants,  and  the  delightful  village  of 
Newark,  which  has  been  so  often  selected  as  the  temporary 
residence  of  involuntary  Refugees  of  quality,  from  diflerent 
parts  of  Europe ;  as  the  driver  lingered  along  the  sands 
of  Jersey,  we  passed  by  one  tavern,  the  sign  of  ihe  Union, 
and  stopped  to  water  at  another  under  the  same  patronage , 
These  people  are  great  admirers  of  union,  it  w'ould  seem, 
said  one  of  our  company.  Yes,  replied  I,  they  are  so  fond 
of  union  that  they  di-vide  it.  We  had  come  on  so  very 
slowly,  for  the  last  few  miles,  that  one  had  proposed  to  put 
a  snapper  upon  the  driver's  whip,  as  we  waited  for  him 
without  quitting  our  seats  ;  and,  he  staid  so  long  at  the  bar 
while  the  people  of  the  house  were  sitting  down  to  meat, 
that  another  suspected  he  was  going  to  breakfast  there, 
and  we  should  have  to  wait  till  he  was  done.  That  would 
be  an  unlucky  «•(«;?  for  us,  said  I.  He  however  presently 
came  out  again,  and  we  drove  oft"  at  an  acctlierated  pace  ; 
but,  it  was  not  long  before  we  nnappcd  one  of  ourJacL-:prings, 
and  we  were  fain  (o  tiack  our  jokes  with  less  merriment  the 
reit  of  the  w;iv. 


IG 


NEW-YORK. 


1  SHALL  not  stop  to  describe  the  Bay 
of  New-York,  nor  to  make  comparisons 
which  might  lead  me  to  Naples,  or  Con- 
stantinople, though  neither  of  those 
places  tmite  the  various  advantages  of 
sea  and  river  communication ;  and  they 
must  therefore  yield,  in  point  of  con- 
venience, to  the  American  Emporium — 
whatever  superiority  they  may  possess 
in  expanse  of  water,  or  diversity  of  ob- 
jects  the  rich  inheritance  of  a  hun- 
dred ages. 


The  Islands  in  the  Bay  of  New-York, 
having  been  stripped  of  wood,  are  not 
very  ornamental,  and  one  of  them, 
which  has  been  fortified,  obstructs  by 
a  massy  tower,  the  view  which  was  for- 
merly enjoyed  of  the  entrance  called 
the  narrows,  through  which  whole  fleets* 
could  be  seen  on  their  first  entering  the 


17 


the  Bay 
parisons 
or  Con- 
f  those 
tages  of 
ind  they 

of  con- 
orium — 

possess 
of  ob- 
a  huu- 


'-York, 
lare  not 
them, 
lets  by 
as  for- 
called 
fleets* 
ig  the 


}3ay,  and  before  they  approached  the 
Basin;  where  alone  they  are  now 
visible  to  a  Spectator  on  the  Battery 
— a  promenade  of  health  and  pleasure 
always  crowded  of  an  evening  with  the 
familiar  intercourse  of  Youth  and  Beau- 
ty amid  the  retiring  Sons  of  business 
and  care.  The  shores  of  Staten  Island, 
and  even  those  of  the  North  River  are 
too  distant  to  admit  the  charm  of  dis- 
tinct variety,  but  those  of  Long-Island, 
as  they  stretch  along  toward  the  sound, 
are  beautifully  variegated  with  hills 
and  valleys,  woods  and  cultivated 
fields,  near  enough  to  gratify  the  eye 
with  ideas  of  rural  tranquillity,  even 
from  the  busy  Quays  of  aSeaPort  Town. 

But  as  an  Admirer  of  Architecture,  I 
cannot  pass  without  notice  the  City 
Hall,  for  the  costly  magnificence  of 
which  we  are  probably  indebted  to  that 
National  taste  for  the  substantial,  which 

B  2 


18 

induced  the  Dutch  Ancestors  of  our 
New-York  Burghers  to  erect,  at  Am* 
sterdara,  a  Fabric,  upon  piles^  which  is 
justly  ranked  among  the  first  Public 
Edifices  in  Europe. 


The  principal  front,  and  two  sides, 
are  of  white  marble;  the  back-front, 
and  the  basement  story,  of  free  stone,  of 
a  reddish  cast;  both  of  which  are 
found  in  quarries  within  a  hundred  miles 
of  the  spot. 

This  noble  Structure  is  two  stories 
high,  and  it  is  ornamented  with  a  Por- 
tico of  eight  columns,  each  hewn  out 
of  a  single  block,  fifteen  feet  in  length ; 
and  Pilasters  of  the  lonick  and  Corin- 
thian orders  are  carried  round  the 
building,  with  their  appropriate  enta- 
blatures— all  executed  in  marble. 

The  second  Story  shows  nineteen 
windows  in  a  row— the  number  of  In- 


c 
c 

tl 
a 


h 

F 

o 

\i 

s 
a 

P 


of  our 

at  Am* 

^hich  is 

Public 


o  sides, 
ck-front, 
stone,  of 
ich  are 
ed  miles 


stories 

a  Por- 

Iwn  out 

[length ; 

Corin- 

id   the 

enta- 


leteen 
lof  In- 


19 

dividual  States  at  the  time  it  was  finish- 
ed. Thus  tacitly  marking  the  date  of  its 
erection.  The  five  intercolumniations 
in  the  entrance,  correspond  to  as  many 
arcades,  which  open  upon  the  Portico 
for  egress  and  regress — like  the  arched 
doors,  of  equal  number,  belonging  to 
its  prototype  in  Holland. 

One  of  the  fronts  of  that  building  (I 
cannot  remember  which)  has  a  figure 
of  Atlas  supporting  the  Globe — Admire 
this  happy  emblem  of  Dutch  patience 
and  perseverance. 

The  New- York  City  Hall  is  two 
hundred  feet  long — eighty  deep,  in  the 
projecting  wings,  which  enclose  a  flight 
of  twenty  steps,  sixty  or  eighty  feet  in 
length,  for  they  are  returned  at  the 
sides.  It  is  sixty  feet  to  the  eaves, 
and  the  roof  is  surirounted  by  a  Cu- 
pola, ornamented  with  coupled  columns, 


201. 

and  a  Statue  of  Justice,  with  her  sus- 
pended scales,  at  a  height  of  ninety 
feet  from  the  ground. 

In  this  Cupola  a  light  is  kept  every 
night,  by  a  watchman  who  cries  the 
hour,  from  this  elevated  situation ;  and 
gives  the  alarm  in  case  of  fire. 


I  shall  not  describe  the  interior  of 
this  superb  edifice,  with  its  Circular 
Hall,  and  double  Stair  Case;  with  its 
columns,  its  balustrades,  and  its  Dome. 
The  Picture  Gallery,  or  Hall  of  Audi- 
ence, hung  with  portraits  of  the  Go- 
vernors of  New-York,  and  the  Presi- 
dents of  the  Union.  Or  the  Council 
Chamber;  glittering  with  gold  and  scar- 
let: As  I  am  not  quite  satisfied  that  so 
much  splendour  is  consistent  with  prac- 
tical Republicanism;  and  we  know  that 
the  Town  Hall  of  Amsterdam  has  been 
already  converted  into  the  Palace  of  a 
Sovereign. 


her  sus- 
■  ninety 


)t  every 
ies  the 
)n;  and 


srior  of 
[Circular 
with  its 
;  Dome, 
f  Audi- 
e  Go- 
Presi- 
ouncil 


scar- 
that  so 
prac- 
|w  that 
Is  been 
e  of  a 


21 

In  short,  I  am  sufficiently  supersti- 
tious in  political  omens,  to  dread  the 
inference  (however  unlikely  it  may  be 
thought — every  where — but  at  IVash- 
ington)  that  where  there  are  Palaces,  there 
will  be  Princes, 

But  I  can  take  a  view  of  Broadway, 
without  turning  aside,  as  it  is  my  road 
to  the  Hotel  I  put  up  at ; 

This  beautiful  avenue  comes  in  strait 
for  a  mile,  lined  on  both  sides  with  every 
variety  of  Public  and  private  Build- 
ings— Churches,  Halls,  Houses,  many 
of  which  are  ornamented  with  taste; 
Shops,  in  which  every  necessary,  and 
every  luxury  of  life  are  displayed,  with 
elegance  and  splendour.  After  it  has 
passed  the  Stadt  House  above  mention- 
ed,  which  by  the  way  is  now  sadly  ob- 
scured by  ragged  trees  which  entirely 
prevent  a  front  view— They  might  be 


22 

readily  exchanged  for  a  noal  clump  or 
two,  at  distant  intervals,  leaving  from 
the  street  an  uninterrupted  view  of  the 
Structure  in  different  directions. 

The  Street  now  winds  to  the  left,  and 
gradually  widens  until  it  opens  upon 
the  water,  after  forming  a  triangular 
plot  which  is  railed  in  with  an  iron 
balustrade,  and  once  exhibited  a  Statue 
of  King  George.  This  was  removed 
at  the  Revolution — but  the  pedestal  re- 
mains, and  it  is  hoped  that  it  will  not 
be  long  before  the  liberal  and  patriotic 
Citizens  of  New-York  shall  replace 
the  historical  Monument  with — another 
George — far  better  entitled  than  the 
former  to  the  veneration  of  Posterity.* 


*  Of  the  extent  and  accommodations  of  the  superb  Inn 
before  mentioned  some  idea,  may  be  formed,  by  the  sum 
which  has  been  just  laid  out  vipon  furnishing,  and  fitting  it 
up,  for  the  use  of  the  present  Tenant.  It  was  not  less  tlian 
thirty  thousand  dollars,  and  he  pays  for  it  tlje  liberal  rem 
of  (en  thousand  dollars  a  vear. 


:luinp  or 
ing  from 
w  of  the 

IS. 


;  left,  and 
ns  upon 
riangular 
an  iron 
a  Statue 
removed 
lestal  re- 
will  not 

atriotic 
replace 

another 
han  the 

terity.* 

I  superb  Inn 
hy  the  sum 
fd  fitting  it 
)t  less  than 
lliberal  rem 


23 


THE  NORTH  RlVEK. 

Next  day  I  took  my  |  assage  for  Al- 
bany in  the  Paragon,  or  the  Car  ot 
Neptune,  I  forget  which — but  any  of  the 

Family  Parties  are  provi(}c(l  for  in  a  distinct  part  of  the 
Estaldishinenl,  with  the  uso  of  elegant  drawinir  rooms  ;  and 
Public  eulertainmontsare  given,  occasionally,  in  apartments 
of  magnificent  dimensions,  on  the  principal  lloor  :  Init  at  the 
Table  d'  Holt  the  fare  is  excellent,  and  ahundred  PersDiis  sit 
down  there  every  day,  in  the  summer  season  ;  when  New- 
York  becomes  the  grand  thoroughfare  between  the  SontU 
and  the  North,  during  the  stated  migration  of  the  Genti^  of 
the  Southern  States,  toward  the  more  salutary  regions  of 
New  England,  and  the  Canadian  Provinces,  where  the  heat 
of  summer  is  comparatively  temperate,  and  to  a  Southern 
Constitution  highly  invigorating. 

Here  the  Scotchman  of  Detroit,  and  the  Frenchman  of 
New  Orleans,  from  the  borders  of  Lake  Huron  and  the 
iJanksofthe  Mississippi — when  at  home  not  less  than  two 
thousand  miles  apart,  meet  each  other  half  way,  upon  com- 
mon ground,  as  American  Citizens,  professing  allegiance  to 
the  Constituted  Authorities  of  the  same  Republic. 

And  the  Occmiant  of  central  woods  and  waters  here 
shakes  hands  and  interchanges  sentiment  and  information, 
with  Brother  Sailors;  who  seek  a  livelihood  upon  the  east- 
ern coasts  of  the  Atlantic,  penetrate  every  nook  and  corner 
in  the  Baltic,  or  the  Mediterranean,  or  doubling  either  Cape 
ransack  the  Antipodes  for  objects  of  Commercial  enterpri.«>> 


I 


21 


Steam  Boats  of  the  North  River  are 
justly  entitled  to  either  of  these  proud 
appellations. — Since  they  proceed — not, 
wind  and  vjeather  permitting^  like  all  an- 
terior Navigators :  but  against  wind  and 
tide,  at  the  rate  of  seven  or  eight  miles 
an  hour.  And  they  are  not  exceeded 
in  one  of  their  dimensions — that  of 
length  by  a  Ship  of  the  Line. 

We  left  the  dock  about  5  in  the  even- 
ing, and  the  next  day,  about  noon,  as  I 
was  leaning  over  the  prow,  and  contem- 
plating alternately  the  moving  land- 
scape on  either  hand,  and  the  water 
over  which  we  were  imperceptibly  gli- 
ding, I  perceived  something  forward  that 
looked  like  slender  spires,  at  the  head 
and  foot  of  a  distant  hill.  It  was  Alba- 
ny, and  by  3  o'clock  we  stepped  ashore 
again,  one  hundred  and  sixty  miles 
north  of  the  Capital,  which  we  had 
quitted  but  twenty-two  hours  before. 


sai 

She 

wat 

mos 

vers 

ing 

rive 

wav 


*  0 

the  Cl 
uundn 
down 
'.vhich 
ship  ( 
',  requin 
the  wl 


iver  are 
e  proud 
ed — not, 
3  all  an- 
viiid  and 
rht  miles 
xceeded 
-that   of 


he  even- 
oon,  as  I 
I  contem- 
igr  land- 
le  water 
[\h\y  gli- 
^ard  that 
le  head 
IS  Alba- 
ashore 
miles 
ve  had 
Ifore. 


25 

The  distance,  I  am  told,  has  been  ruu 
down  the  stream,  in  seventeen  hours ; 
formerly  an  uncertain  voyage  of  three 
or  four  days,  or  a  week  or  two,  accord- 
ing to  the  state  of  the  winds  and  tides. 

A  few  miles  before  we  reached  Alba- 
ny, we  met  the  Chancellor  Livingston, 
said  to  bo  the  finest  boat  on  the  River. 
She  looked  indeed  very  gay  upon  the 
water.  We  passed  each  other  with  the 
most  animating  rapidity,  and  the  ad- 
verse motion  of  two  such  vessels,  breast- 
ing the  surge,  in  a  narrow  part  of  the 
river,  made  a  sensible  concussion  of  the 
waves,  from  shore  to  shore.* 


*  On  my  return,  a  month  afterward,  this  same  vessel, 
the  Chancellor  Livingston,  which  had  just  brought  up  two 
hundred  Passengers,  in  nineteen  hours,  was  in  course,  to  go 
down  the  stream.  There  had  been  a  freshet  in  the  river> 
•.vhich  is  here  about  three  hundred  yards  over:  yet  this  fine 
ship  (one  hundred  and  fifty-seven  feet  long)  seemed  to 
,  require  the  whole  space  to  turn  in,  as  she  swung  round  from 
the  wharf,  in  majestic  evolution,  and  when  she  began  to 


26 

The  influx  of  multitudes  on  board 
these  boats,  arriving  in  crowds,  on  foot, 
and  in  carriages;  their  punctuality  of 
departure,  which  often  leaves  lingerers 
upon  the  wharf,  to  follow,  as  they  can, 
in  boats,  which  are  always  ready  to 
put  off  after  them;  together  with  the 
unvarying  steadiness  of  their  progress, 
admitting  of  the  most  entire  independ- 
ence, and  the  most  unobstructed  ob- 
servation— whether  of  moving  life,  per- 
petually flitting  before  your  eyes ;  or  of 

descend  the  stream,  "which  was  now  unusually  rapid,  her 
motion  seemed  to  sway  the  river,  and  command  the  current. 
The  wake  of  a  ship  measuring  five  hundred  tons,  and  pi'o- 
ceeding  at  the  rate  of  ten  or  twelve  miles  an  hour  (for  we 
reached  Hudson,  which  is  thirty  miles,  in  two  hours  and 
three-quarters)  soon  spread  itself  from  side  to  side,  and  pro- 
duced a  visible  agitation  upon  both  shores  of  the  river.— 
The  sea-boats  which  ply  in  Long  Island  Sound  sometimes 
make  thii-teen  knots  an  hour;  but  one  is  accustomed  to 
flying  at  Sea,  and  the  receding  shores  of  a  river  give  a 
stronger  sensation  of  rapidity,  by  the  comparisons  which 
they  afford  with  the  apparent  motion  of  stationary  objects. 
She  cost  one  hundred  and  ten  thousand  dollars,  and  some 
times  makes  for  ber  owners  fifteen  hundred  dollars  a  trip. 


on  board 
Is,  on  foot, 
ctuality  of 
3  lingerers 
3  they  can, 
\  ready  to 
r  with  the 
r  progress, 
independ- 
ructed  ob- 
[ig  life,  per- 
eyes ;  or  of 

isually  rapid)  her 
landthe  current, 
tons,  and  pro- 
an  hour  (for  we 
two  hours  and 
;o  side,  and  pro- 
of the  river. — 
lound  sometimes 
accustomed  to 
a  river  give  a 
iparisons  whieh 
itionary  objects, 
liars,  and  some 
loUars  a  trip. 


29' 

the  face  of  Nature,  ever  calm  and  ma- 
jestic, yet  alternately  rising  and  reced- 
ing in  perpetual  variation,  keep  the 
mind  in  a  state  of  animating  excite- 
ment. 

A  constant  change  of  Company  is 
perpetually  going  on,  in  this  little  world. 
Some  getting  out  at  every  great  town, 
or  noted  landing-place,  and  others 
coming  in ;  but  all  this  is  managed  with 
little  or  no  delay  of  the  moving  Ark,  by 
merely  slackening  her  course,  and  low- 
ering a  boat,  which  discharges  her  bur- 
then with  astonishing  dexterity,  and — 
to  me,  terrifying  speed. 

There  is  another  circumstance  of 
communication  with  the  adjacent  shores, 
which  takes  place  occasionally— Nothing 
is  wanted  but  an  exchange  of  papers,  for 
instance — A  boat  puts  off  from  the 
slioro,  and  at  the  same  instant,  another 


I 


•2» 

boat  quits  the  vessel.  They  meet,  as 
it  were  on  the  Aving,  for  the  speed  of 
the  Steam  Boat  is  not  now  at  all  im- 
peded to  favour  the  operation,  and  it 
takes  place  between  the  passing  Water- 
men, in  the  twinkling  of  an  eye. 

The  animating  bugle  gives  notice  of 
approach,  and  the  bell  rings  for  depar- 
ture. Every  thing  concurs  to  create 
bustle  and  interest.  People  of  the  first 
consequence  arc  often  among  the  Pas- 
sengers; amidst  whom  they  can  lay 
claim  to  no  peculiar  privilege,  or  ac- 
commodation. The  only  exception  is 
in  favour  of  the  Ladies;  who  have  a 
cabin  to  themselves,  where  Gentlemen 
are  not  permitted  to  intrude. 

By-Laws  are  enacted  for  the  pre- 
servation of  order,  and  the  forfeitures 
incurred  are  scrupulously  exacted. 


i 


I 


i 


29 


■f  meet,  as 
5  speed  of 
at  all  im- 
on,  and  it 
ng  Water- 
^e. 

3  notice  of 
for  depar- 
to  create 
of  the  first 
5  the  Pas- 
'  can  lay 
e,  or  ac- 
eption  is 
have  a 
lentlemen 


the  pre- 
kfeitures 
ited. 


There  were  no  persons  of  particular 
note  on  this  voyage,  nor  any  of  those 
amusing  characters  styled  great  talkers 
— one  or  more  of  whom  is  generally  to 
be  found  in  all  companies,  who  volunta- 
rily, and  ex  mcro  motii,^  take  upon  them- 
selvcs  the  task  of  entertaining  the  silent 
part  of  their  species. 

On  a  former  occasion,  1  had  been 
highly  diverted  by  a  Son  of  Chief  Jus- 
tice Jay — ^^himself  a  limb  of  the  law,  to 
enforce  the  laws  and  usages  of  the 
Steam  Boat,  with  all  the  affected  for- 
malities of  legal  process.  Under  his 
humorous  arrangement,  the  offender  was 
put  to  the  bar.  Witnesses  appeared, 
and  Counsel,  on  both  sides,  pleaded 
the  merits  of  the  case — not  to  be  sure 
with  all  the  gravity  and  decorum  which 
are  laudably  observed  in  cases  of  high 
crimes  and  misdemeanors  ;  but  with  suffi- 
cient acuteness  and  pertinacity.  What 

c  2 


30 


was  wanting  in  solemnity  was  made  up. 
in  laughter,  and  I  remember  young  Jay 
kept  the  quarter  deck  in  a  continual 


roar. 


I 


I  have  ever  since  regretted  that  I  did 
not  preserve  a  sketch  of  his  opening 
speech,  which  was  introduced  with  all 
the  precision  of  serious  argument. — 
Several  Persons  of  note  were  then 
present.  I  recollect  particularly  Go- 
vernor Lewis.  Some  of  the  Morrises 
from  Morrisania,  and  the  Lady  of  a 
former  Governor  of  South  Carolina. 


f 

■*5 


's' 


Ferry  boats,  propelled  by  steam,  and 
so  constructed  that  carriages  drive  in 
ixiid  out,  at  pleasure,  may  be  observed 
at  every  large  town  on  the  North  River. 
These  convenient  vehicles  are  likely  to 
supersede  the  use  of  bridges,  on  navi- 
gable waters.  They  are  in  fact  a  sort 
of  flying   bridge,  with   this  advantage 


made  up. 
oung  Jay 
continual 


that  I  did 
opening 
I  with  all 
;ument. — 
5re  then 
arly  Go- 
Morrises 
idy  of  a 
irolina. 

earn,  and 
drive  in 
)bserved 
h  River, 
likely  to 
on  navi- 
t  a  sort 
vantage 


31 

even  over  the  numerous  and  costly 
Structures  of  that  kind,  which  now 
span  the  broad  surface  of  the  Susque- 
hannah,  in  the  interior  of  Pennsylvania. 
They  do  not  require  such  expensive 
repairs,  and  they  may  be  secured  from 
the  effects  of  sudden  floods :  but  what 
is  of  far  more  importance,  they  present 
no  obstruction  to  the  stream,  and  are 
no  hindrance  to  navigation. 

The  Shores  of  the  North  River,  su- 
blime as  they  are,  where  the  Allegheny 
mountains  must  have  crossed  from  west 
to  east,  before  the  lofty  chain  was  bro- 
ken through,  to  admit  the  passage  of 
the  River  (the  sight  of  which  is  unfor- 
tunately lost  to  Travellers  by  the 
Steam  Boats  running  through  the  Nar- 
rows in  the  night)  owe  much  of  their 
interest  and  beauty  to  the  superb  Seats 
of  the  Livingstons  and  the  Clintons, 
some  of  which  overhang  the  water,  at 
an    imposing    elevation.       Spectators 


32 

from  these  mostly  line  the  bluffs,  at  the 
passage  of  the  Steam  Boats,  which  seem 
to  electrify  every  thing  within  their 
sphere.  And  the  antiquated  Mansion? 
of  the  ScnuYLERs  and  Van  Rensselaers, 
in  the  vicinity  of  Albany,  are  beheld 
with  historic  recollections,  as  the  places 
where  General  Burgovne,  and  his  prin- 
cipal Officers,  were  quartered,  until 
they  could  be  exchanged,  after  the  me- 
morable defeat  at  Saratoga. 

FROM 

ALBANY  TO  LAKE  CHAMPLAIN. 


The  next  day  after  our  arrival  at 
Albany  was  the  4th  of  July;  and  the 
good  Citizens  of  Albany  were  preparing 
to  celebrate  the  Declaration  of  Inde- 
pendence— not  as  Weld  ridiculously 
represents,  from  the  information  of  his 
Host,  as  if  they  rejoiced  against  the 
grain ;  regretting  in  their  hearts  the 
protection  of  Great  Britain:  but  with 


fls,  at  the 
lich  seem 
hin  Iheir 
Mansion? 

rSSELAERS, 

*e  beheld 
Ihe  places 
I  his  prin- 
ed,  until 
r  the  me- 


PLAIN. 

rrival  at 
and  the 
reparing 
of  Inde- 

pculously 

n  of  his 

inst  the 

rts   the 

ut  with 


33 

all  the  zeal  and  fervour  of  heart-felt 
exultation,  for  the  incalculable  advan- 
tages of  National  independence,  and 
emancipation  from  a  Foreign  yoke. 

But  I  was  now  become  earnest  to 
reach  Canada. 

I  had  intended  to  take  Ballston  on 
my  way,  for  the  benefit  of  the  Mineral 
waters,  for  which  that  place,  and  its  vi- 
cinity have  become  so  celebrated,  since 
Sir  William  Johnson  was  conducted 
hither  by  the  Indians  in  the  year  1767, 
to  drink  the  water  of  the  Rock  spring 
for  the  removal  of  the  gout  to  which  he 
was  subject.  But  my  mind  I  found  was 
now  too  much  engaged  in  the  ultimate 
objects  of  pursuit  to  admit  of  turn- 
ing aside,  at  this  period  of  the  journey. 

So,  finding  myself  in  time  for  the 
Lcxt  Steam  Boat,  on  Lake  Champlain. 
at  10  o'clock,  instead  of  going  to  hear 


34 

a  historical  oration  from  some  patriotic 
Burgher  of  Piatt  Deutch,  descent,  I  took 
my  seat  in  another  Stage  Coach ;  lodg- 
ed, I  forget  where ;  and  reached  White- 
Hall,  about  noon ;  an  hour  or  two  before 
the  putting  off  of  the  Steam  Boat  for  St. 
Johns,  the  first  town,  or  rather  village, 
in  Canada. 


V  > 


By  the  way  this  Whitehall  is  not  a 
Royal  Palace,  nor  even  a  Gentleman's 
Seat ;  but  a  small  post  town  at  the 
mouth  of  Wood  Creek.  It  is  the  same 
that  was  called  Skeensborough  (Query, 
why  change  the  name?)  when  Weld 
wrote  his  ingenious  comparisons  be- 
tween Canada  and  the  United  States, 
and  fearlessly  quoted  General  Wash- 
ington, as  his  authority,  for  the  palpable 
falsehood  that  the  musquitoes  of  this 
place  would  bite  through  the  thickest 
boot — The  musquitoes  have  since  ut- 
terly vanished — stings  and  all;  and 
they  would  have  been  qnictly  forgotten. 


35 


patriotic 
[it,  I  took 
:h;  lodg- 
ed White- 
vo  before 
)at  for  St. 
r  village, 


is  not  a 

iitlemon's 

n   at    the 

the  same 

(Query, 

3n  Weld 

sons   be- 

l  States, 

Wash- 

alpable 

of  this 

thickest 

nee   11 1- 

II;    and 

r^rotten. 


together  with  the  fire  flies,  and  bull 
frogs,  and  supposed  rattle  snakes  of 
other  Transatlantic  Peregrinators,  in 
American  Wilds,  if  it  had  not  been  for 
this  contemptible  story — preserved,  like 
bugs  in  amber,  by  their  unaccountable 
conjunction  with  the  pellucid  name  of 
Washington. — Rattle  snakes  are  alrea- 
dy so  rare  in  America,  that  I,  ^.vho  have 
travelled  thousands  of  miles  in  our  back 
country,  never  met  with  but  one  of 
them ;  and  no  doubt  they  will  become 
in  another  century  as  scarce,  as  snakes 
are  said  to  be  in  Ireland,  through  the 
interference  of  St.  Patrick;  though  the 
fact  may  very  well  have  happened, 
without  a  miracle,  since  Ireland  has 
been  peopled  for  thousands  of  years, 
and  every  Peasant  has  a  hog  or  two,  to 
whom  snakes  are  a  favourite  repast. 

But  before  I  take  boat,  let  me  recall 
the  village  of  Schagticoke,  which  wa& 


I 


\l* 


3G 


passed  on  the  road,  somewliere  about, 
midway — the  never  enough  celebrated 
berg  or  dorff  from  which  the  Cervantic 
genius  Knickerbocker,  in  his  incompa- 
rable History  of  New-York,  derives  his 
pretended  pedigree.  The  scattered 
houses  of  which  it  consists  are  built  in 
nooks  and  crannies  round  the  yawning 
gulf  of  a  roaring  cataract,  which  de- 
scends, between  jutting  rocks,  and 
craggy  pines ;  with  as  many  tw  ists  and 
turns,  and  as  much  of  spray  and  splut- 
ter, as  the  never  to  he  forgotten  work 
itself  proceeds  under  its  characteristic 
motto : 


it 


Die  wahrheit  die  in  dunster  lag, 
Da  komml  mit  klahrheit  an  den  tag.* 

Tlie  truth  which  late  in  darkness  lay 
Now  breaks  with  clearness  into  day. 


ID 


Or  perhaps  better  ; 


Truths  which  lay  hid  in  darkest  nigLt 
My  pen  sball  bring  again  to  light 


I 


37 


Tc  about 
^lebrated 
Dervantic 
Incompa- 
jrives  his 
scattered 
B  built  in 
yawning 
hich  de- 
;ks,  and 
lists  and 
[h1  splut- 
[en  work 
Gteristic 


LAKE   CHAMPLAIN. 

To  return  to  the  Steam  Boat,  on 
Lake  Champlain,  though  it  is  greatly 
inferior,  in  size,  and  accommodation,  to 
those  on  the  North  River ;  (at  least  so 
was  the  boat  which  conveyed  me,  but  a 
new  one  has  just  commenced  running, 
which  is  said  to  excel  them  in  elegance 
and  speed)  yet  it  will  bear  a  compari- 
son, even  with  the  English  Post  Chaise, 
or  any  other  mode  of  easy  and  rapid 
conveyance;  in  despite  of  Dr.  Johnson's 
ipse  dixit,  that  life  had  few  things  better  to 
boast  than  riding  in  a  post  chaise — be- 
cause if  I  remember  right,  there  was 
motion  or  change  of  place  without  fatigue  ; 
since  to  these  agreeable  circumstances 
the  Steam  Boat  adds  the  conveniencies 
of  a  tavern,  of  which  Johnson  was  so 
fond,  and  the  advantage  of  a  bed  at 
night,  without  loss  of  time. 


38 


The  Creek,  as  we  call  such  waters, 
or  to  use  the  English  phrase,  the  river, 
winds  round  broken  crags,  shagged 
with  fir  trees,  for  many  miles,  before  it 
becomes  more  than  just  wide  enough 
for  the  Steam  Boats  to  veer  round  in. 
Yet  in  a  gloomy  cove,  near  the  harbour, 
sufficient  space  has  been  found  to  moor 
the  five  or  six  sloops  of  war  that  were 
taken  from  Commodore  Downie  upon 
this  Lake. 

Toward  evening  we  entered  Cham- 
plain  Proper.  The  Lake  gradually 
widened  to  an  expanse  of  fifteen  or 
twenty  miles,  and  the  sun  set,  glorious- 
ly, behind  golden  clouds,  and  moun- 
tains of  azure  blue,  whose  waving  out- 
line, at  an  elevated  height,  was  finely 
contrasted  by  the  dark  stripe  of  pines 
and  firs,  that  here  lines  the  unvarying 
level  of  the  western  shore. 


39 


:h  watera, 
,  the  river, 
,  shagged 
5,  before  it 
cle  enough 
•  round  in. 
le  harbour, 
id  to  moor 
that  were 
vnie  upon 


bd  Cham. 

gradually 

fifteen  or 

glorious- 

d    moun« 

ving  out- 

as  finely 

of  pines 

varying 


The    solemnity  of  the    scene    was 
lieightened      with      indistinct      ideas 
of   Burgoyne's    disastrous    descent   in 
1777 — of  the   melancholy  fate  of  the 
first  Lord  Howe  in  the  year  1759,  and 
of   anterior  scenes   of   massacre    and 
horror   which   rendered    the   sonorous 
name  of  Ticonderoga  terrific   to  our 
peaceful  Ancestors — after   passing  the 
ruins  grey  of  this   dilapidated   fortress 
(the  French  called  it  elegantly  Carillon 
from  the  hub-bub  usually  kept  up  there 
in  time  of  war)  and  those  of  Crown 
Point  (called  by  them  Fort  la  Cheve- 
lure  or  the  scalping  place)  a  barbarous 
denomination  which  the  English  melted 
down  into  Crown  Point,  still  indicative 
of  the  same  savage  practice. 

I  awoke  in  (he  night  under  these 
solemn  recollections;  and  tlic  morning 
star  was  shining  in,  with  perceptible  re- 
llection,  at  the  little  window  of  my 
birth.      It  is  now  peculiarly  briUiant, 


40 

and  I  was  forcibly  impressed  widi  a 
sense  of  God's  providence,  for  the  bene- 
fit of  his  creature  Man,  especially  when 
travelling  upon  the  waters,  when  his 
journeys  must  be  pursued  by  night,  asr 
well  as  by  day. 


And  here  let  me  observe,  that  during 
travel,  the  spirits  are  renewed,  as  well 
as  the  body  invigorated.  The  energies 
of  the  mind,  so  often  latent,  through  in- 
activity, are  called  into  action,  by  dan- 
gers and  difficulties,  which  it  requires  un- 
remitting watchfulness  to  steer  through, 
or  to  shun;  and  the  habitual  inatten- 
tion under  which,  safe  within  the  walls 
of  cities,  an  accustomed  face  is  beheld 
without  notice,  and  a  next  door  neigh- 
bour passes  by  unknown,  is  necessarily 
exchanged  for  the  active  exercise  of 
observation  and  inquiry. 


In  another  point  of  view  too,  occa- 
sional journeys,  especially  into  Foreign 


(1  with  a 
the  bene- 
ally  when 
when  his 
night,  a& 


at  durinjr 

d,  as  well 

;  energies 

I  rough  in- 

I,  b^  dan- 

quiresun- 

through, 

inatten- 

he  w  alls 

s  beheld 

r  neigh- 

ossarily 

rcise  of 


I,  occa- 
'oreign 


41 

Countries,  creating  a  total  change  ot 
scene  and  habits,  may  be  said  to 
lengthen  the  sense  of  existence,  if  they 
do  not  actually  prolong  life.  So  many- 
changes  of  habit  occur,  and  such  a  va- 
riety of  unusual  circumstances  takes 
place,  that  the  recollection  of  a  few 
months,  passed  abroad,  seems  equal,  in 
the  memory,  to  the  lapse  of  years,  spent 
in  the  unvarying  monotony  of  home. 

The  sublime  operations  of  nature, 
which  are  rarely  attended  to  amidst 
the  incessant  occupations  of  domes- 
tic care,  force  themselves  upon  a 
Traveller's  observation,  disengaged  as 
he  is  from  the  daily  concerns  of  com- 
mon life. — He  now  feels  his  dependence 
upon  the  varying  atmosphere,  and  re- 
marks, perhaps  for  the  first  time,  the 
subservience  of  the  celestial  luminaries 
to  the  occasions  of  life. 

d2 


42 

When  the  moon  rises  to  illuminate  his 
path,  as  the  sun  sets  in  the  west,  which 
it  does  with  such  evident  co-operation^ 
whenever  the  moon  is  at  full ;  he  can 
hardly  fail  to  he  touched  with  admira- 
tion, and  gratitude,  at  the  splendid  pro- 
vision of  which  he  stands  so  much  in 
need. — He  can  but  feel,  with  conscious 
elevation,  the  dignity  of  his  being,  as  a 
creature  of  God,  when. 

Seas  roll  to  waft  liirn,  suns  to  liglit  him  rise  ; 
His  footstool  eart'j,  his  canopy  the  skies. 

Yet  is  there  ample  occasion,  on  the 
face  of  Nature,  for  humbling  considera- 
tions of  the  littleness  of  Man,  and  all 
his  works,  in  comparison  of  the  wide 
spread  surface  of  the  planet  we  inhabit. 
Inadequate  must  needs  be  the  ideas  of 
a  Man  who,  confined  for  life  witliin  the 
streets  of  cities,  has  never  seen  an  ex- 
tensive horizon,  or  beheld  those  majes- 


43 


ate  his 
which 
eration^ 
he  can 
idmira- 
id  pro- 
uch  in 
nscious 
ig,  as  a 


on  the 

isidera- 

md  all 

wide 

Inhabit. 

leas  of 

tiin  the 

an  ex- 

lajes- 


tic  features  of  the  Earth,  a  Mountain,  or 
a  Lake — No  Man  that  has  not  travel- 
led a  day's  journey  on  foot,  nor  ever 
lost  his  way  in  trackless  wilds,  when 
spent  with  hunger  and  fatigue,  can  have 
a  competent  idea  of  the  spaces  that 
intervene  between  town  and  town, 
sometimes  between  one  human  habita- 
tion and  another. 

We  must  have  seen  a  good  deal  of 
the  Globe  we  inhabit  to  form  any  just 
notion  of  the  overwhelming  extent  of 
its  surface  in  proportion  to  the  pigmy 
race,  to  whom  animal  nature  has  been 
subjected,  by  the  Creator  of  all  things. 
And  after  all  the  imagination  is  un- 
avoidabl  ;onfounded,  amidst  the  bound- 
less sands  which  occupy  the  internal 
parts  of  Africa,  and  Asia.  It  has  often 
revived  my  own  humility  to  span  their 
extent  upon  the  maps  in  my  study. 
And  when  I  compare  the  desert  of 
Zaarah,  for  instance,  with  the  Island  of 


44 

Great  Britain,  and  perceive  that  in  its 
vacant  spaces  there  would  be  room  for 
ten  such  islands,  with  all  its  Millions  of 
civilized  Inhabitants,  I  am  ready  to  ex- 
claim, with  Job — 

Lord !  what  is  Man,  thatthoo  shouldest  set  thiHe  heart 

upon  him  ? 
And  that  thou  shouldest  visit  him  every  morning, 
And  try  him  every  momoui  ? 


Having  passed  Burlington,  the  Capi- 
tal of  Vermont,  in  the  night,  next  morn- 
ing, after  breakfast,  we  were  called  up 
to  see  the  British  flag  flying  at  Ilhnois 
(Isle  aux  Noix  as  the  French  call  it) 
and  his  Majesty's  crown  over  the  gate 
way,  at  the  stairs  leading  to  the  officers' 
house ;  a  handsome  building,  with 
rather  a  phantastic  air,  from  being  built 
of  squared  logs  painted  in  alternate 
stripes  of  white  and  grey.  Green  Va- 
randas  as  light  as  gossamer,  in  the  cen- 
tre, and  at  each  end.  The  whole  sur- 
mounted with  a  heavy  pediment,  and  a 


Iiat  in  its 
room  for 
illions  of 
dy  to  ex- 


thine  heart 
■ning, 

the  Capi- 
ext  morn- 
called  up 
at  Illinois 
h  call  it) 
the  gate 
officers' 
ig,    with 
;ing  built 
lalternate 
-een  Va- 
the  cen- 
lole  sur- 
ht,  and  a 


45 


tinned  Cupola,  the  openings  of  which 
are  glazed  to  make  it  a  comfortable 
look-out. 

I  observed  nothing  particular  in  the 
fortifications  at  Illinois;  but  a  sweet 
little  Cottage  struck  my  eye,  as  we 
passed,  connected  with  a  string  of  con- 
venient out  houses,  a  little  garden  be- 
fore them,  running  to  the  water's  edge, 
with  covered  seats,  of  elegant  simplici- 
ty ;  in  which,  in  all  probability,  some 
British  Officer,  and  the  fair  Companion 
of  his  voluntary  exile,  indulge  their  re- 
collection of  happier  auspices,  and  a 
forsaken  home. 

As  we  ran  by  the  place,  a  boat  put 
ofFto  exchange  papers,  with  three  young 
Marines,  in  Scotch  bonnets,  and  trim 
uniforms,  to  whom  our  Captain  threw  a 
rope ;  but  so  little  dexterous  were  they 
j  in  managing  it,  that  they  had  like  to 
have    overset    the   boat,    before  they 


46 

reached  us.     They  were  however  in- 
sensible of  their  danger,  and  I  remember 
one  of  them   showed  a  very  fine  set  of 
teeth,  as  he  laughed,  with  the  Bystand- 
ers, at  his  own  absurdity. — 

Enough — perhaps  too  much  of  Illi- 
nois. 

By  noon  we  reached  St.  Johns,  of 
which  still  less  may  serve,  and  we  did 
but  drive  through  it  for  La  Prairie. — 
A  Considerable  town  on  the  St.  Law- 
rence, nine  miles  above  Montreal. 


The  rest  of  the  Company,  among 
whom  were  several  Ladies,  from  Caro- 
lina, crossed  directly  over,  in  a  driz- 
zling rain ;  but  I,  being  no  longer  im- 
patient of  delay,  as  this  is  a  considera- 
ble town,  of  long  standing,  with  a  large 
French  Church,  and  other  public  es- 
tablishments, stayed  over  night;  and 
slept,  though  it  was  midsummer,  under 


47 


ever  ii> 
imember 
ne  set  of 
Bystand- 


h   oflUi- 


Johns,  of 
id  we  did 
Prairie. — 
St.  Law- 
real. 

r,   among 
'om  Caro- 
a  driz- 
loriger  im- 
^onsidera- 
th  a  large 
mblie  es- 
|ght;    and 
)Y,  under 


1  know  not  how  many  blankets,  in  a 
bed  close  hung  with  worsted  curtains, 
in  flaming  red. 

I  was  now  ready  to  doubt  whether  it 
ever  was  what  we  call  hot,  in  Canada ; 
but  I  had  occasion  afterward  to  change 
my  mind,  upon  that  score,  as  well  as 
some  others,  as  will  be  seen  in  due  time. 
Rapid  Travellers  are  apt  to  be  hasty 
in  forming  their  conclusions,  of  which 
in  course  plodding  Critics  take  notice, 
at  their  leisure;  without  making  one 
grain  of  allowance  for  the  innumerable 
perplexities,  and  contrarieties,  through 
which  we  have  to  pick  our  way,  in  the 
research  of  truth. 

Next  morning  the  sun  glittered  upon 
the  tinned  spires  and  plated  roofs  of 
Montreal,  many  of  them  being  sheathed 
with  sheet  iron.  I  was  told  that  the 
passage,  by  water,  was   tedious,  and 


48 

that  a  waggon  would  convey  me  much 
quicker  to  the  ferry  opposite  the  town. 
I  went  on  accordingly  to  Longeuil,  and 
crossed  over  from  thence,  in  a  canoe, 
which  was  managed  by  two  diminutive 
Canadians,  with  Indian  paddles. 

MONTREAL 


shows  from  the  water  like  an  old  coun- 
try Sea  Port,  with  long  ranges  of  high 
walls,   and    stone   houses,    overtopped 
here  and  there,  by  Churches,  and  Con- 
vents ;  wiih   something  that  resembles 
a  continued  Quay,  though  it  is  nothing 
more  than  a  high  bank,  to  which  large 
vessels   can  lie    close  enough   for  the 
purposes  of  loading  and  unloading;  in 
consequence  of  the   unusual  depth  of 
water  at  the  very  edge  of  the  current, 
which  sets  close  in  shore  from  an  op- 
posite Island,  and  a  string  of  rocks  and 
shoals,  which  obstructs  it  on  tlie  opposite 
side. 


49 


me  much 
the  town, 
geuil,  and 
1  a  canoe, 
jiminutive 
es. 


old  coun- 
es  of  high 
yertopped 
and  Con- 
resembles 
nothing 
ich  large 
for  the 
ading;  in 
depth  of 
current, 
m  an  op- 
ocks  and 
opposite 


I  took  a  hasty  dinner,  glanced  at  the 
Public  Buildings,  which  I  had  seen 
before,  and  walked  the  streets  till  night ; 
when  the  principal  avenue,  in  which  is 
the  Cathedral,  was  lighted  up,  before 
dark,  in  the  English  manner,  the  twi- 
light being  almost  as  long  here,  as  it  is 
there.  I  then  took  up  my  lodging  on 
board  the  Steam  Boat,  for  Quebec^ 
which  was  to  sail  next  morning  at  3 
o'clock.  For  I  had  now  a  mind  to  see 
in  how  short  a  time  one  might  make 
a  total  change  of  Religion,  language, 
Government,  and  climate,  in  quitting 
the  Metropolis  of  the  United  States, 
for  that  of  the  British  Provinces. 

It  was  now  but  the  8th  day  from  my 
leaving  Philadelphia,  and  there  was  a 
chance  that  I  might  reach  Quebec  on 
the  9th  (July  8th)  the  current  of  the 
St.  Lawrence  being  often  so  power- 
ful, that,  when  the  wind  favours,  this 
passage    of   170   miles,  is   sometimes 


50 

made  in  seventeen  hours,  in  sea  phrase 
ten  knots  an  hour,  arriving  at  Quebec, 
in  summer  time,  by  sunset  the  same  day. 

VOYAGE 

DOAVN  TIIE  ST.  LAWRENCE. 


I  WAS  not  now  in  luck,  if  I  may  be  al- 
lowed the  phrase,  or  to  speak  with  be- 
coming dignity  of  a  voyage  upon  the  St. 
Lawrence,  the  wind  was  right  ahead, 
and  blew  strong  from  the  North  East, 
•with  occasional  squalls  of  rain,  through 
the  day,  and  the  following  night;  and  I 
was  glad  to  come  off  with  two  tedious 
and  wearisome  nights,  spent  at  sea,  to 
all  usual  intents  and  purposes,  of  sea- 
faring life,  such  as  incommodities  of 
every  kind,  apprehension  of  danger, 
disinclination  to  stir  hand  or  foot,  and 
irremediable  delay.  But  I  am  antici- 
pating events,  and  ought  perhaps  to 
have  kept  the  Reader  in  that  happy 
jstate    of  suspense,   under  which   we 


51 


oa  phrase 

Quebeci 

same  day. 


:nce. 

lay  be  al- 
:  with  be- 
on  the  St. 
it   ahead, 
)rth  East, 
1,  through 
hi;  and  I 
)  tedious 
it  sea,  to 
,  of  sea- 
dities   of 
danger, 
Dot,   and 
n  antici- 
•haps  to 
happy 
ich    we 


usually  advance  to  the  most  dangerous, 
or  disaorreeable  adventures,  without  ap- 
prehension, or  reluctance. 

First  then,  of  the  first.  After  passing 
the  night  under  an  incessant  trampling, 
and  rummaging,  overhead,  the  Boat- 
men being  at  work  all  night,  stowing 
away  heavy  freight,  and  clearing  the 
decks  of  luggage  :  for  the  Steam  Boats 
of  the  St.  Lawrence,  are  as  much  used 
for  the  conveyance  of  freight,  as  of  Pas- 
sengers. I  awoke  an  hour  or  two  after 
day  light,  some  leagues  below  Montreal. 

The  great  Church  of  Varennes,  with 
its  two  steeples,  was  distinctly  visible, 
together  with  the  isolated  mountain, 
which  rises  near  Boucherville,  in  the 
midst  of  surrounding  plains:  but  every 
other  object  was  at  such  an  immeasur- 
able distance,  for  river  scenery,  that  I 
was  much  disappointed  of  the  boasted 
appearance  of  towns,  and  villages,  and 


oii 


scattered  hamlets,  upon  tlie  banks  ot" 
the  St.  Lawrence — said  to  exceed  so 
far,  in  use  and  beauty,  the  scanty  im- 
provemenly  upon  the  North  River. 


It  is  true  that  the  occasional  spires  of 
the  Parish  Churches  would  be  neces- 
sarily beautiful,  if  as  they  are  described 
by  fanciful  Travellers,  (fatigued  by  the 
repetition  of  substantial  Mills  and  Meet- 
ing Houses  in  the  United  States,)  they 
were  actually  seen  peeping  over  trees 
and  woods:  but  the  trees  are  all  cut 
away  round  Canadian  settlements,  and 
the  unvarying  habitations,  stand  in  end- 
less rows,  at  equal  distances,  like  so 
many  sentry  boxes  or  soldiers'  tents, 
without  a  tree,  or  even  a  fence  of  any 
kind  to  shelter  them ;  instead  of  being 
irregularly  interspersed,  as  with  us, 
among  fields  and  woods,  surrounded 
with  every  variety  of  domestic  accom- 
modation, and  collected,  every  ten  or 
twelve  miles  into  hamlets,  pr  trading 


'5! 
1 


J  banks  oJ' 
exceed  so 
scanty  im- 


liver. 


il  spires  of 
be  neces- 
(lescribed 
ed  by  the 
and  Meet- 
tes,)  they 
Dver  trees 
e  all  cut 
eiits,  and 
id  in  end- 
,  like   so 
rs'  tents, 
e  of  any 
of  being 
^'lih     us, 
'rounded 
I  accom- 
y  ten  or 
trading 


53 

towns,  of  which  there  are  fifteen  or 
twenty,  upon  the  North  River,  whilst 
there  are  but  four,  in  the  like  space, 
upon  the  River  St.  Lawrence,  including 
Quebec  and  Montreal. 

These  circumstances  admit  of  no 
comparison,  between  the  two  rivers, 
and  the  improvements  on  their  banks, 
in  point  of  interest  or  effect.  Still  less 
with  those  of  the  Delaware,  from  Tren- 
ton to  New  Castle,  where,  in  less  than 
half  the  distance,  beside  innumerable 
farm  houses,  and  countrv  seats,  we  have 
the  cities  of  Trenton,  Burlington,  Phila- 
delphia, and  Wilmington;  and  the  beau- 
tiful towns  of  Bordentown,  Bristol,  Ches- 
ter, and  New  Castle ;  together  with  a 
like  number  of  inland  villages,  in  dis- 
tant perspective ;  literally  surrounded 
with  orchards  and  gardens,  and  fre- 
quently ornamented  with  modest  spires, 
or  rather  cupolas ;  which  are  not  to  be 

E  2 


54 

sure  so  favourable  to  display,  half  con- 
cealed as  they  are  by  neighbouring 
uoods. 

Yet  this  is  the  only  point  of  view,  in 
which  any  comparison  at  all  can  be  sup- 
ported between  the  two  Countries :  for 
it  is  only  on  the  banks  of  its  rivers,  that 
Canada  pretends  to  any  population,  or 
improvement,  whatever;  whereas  with 
us  the  cheering 


U\ 


■  Tract  and  blest  abode  of  Man, 


is  scattered,  more  or  less,  over  the 
whole  surface  of  the  soil,  by  hardy  Ad- 
venturers, who  are  not  afraid  to  quit 
their  native  hearths,  in  quest  of  the  most 
distant  establishments.  And  we  have  in- 
land towns  little  inferior  in  population 
to  the  Capital  of  Canada. 

It  is  but  fair  to  observe,  however,  that 
the  mode  of  setthng  upon  the  River  St. 


5h 


half  con- 
ibouring 


view,  in 
1  be  sup- 
ries :  for 
'ers,  that 
ition,  or 
eas  with 


Ian. 


^er  the 
[rdy  Ad- 

to  quit 
Ihe  most 
have  in- 

mlation 


ir,  that 
^er  St. 


Lawrence,  seems  pointed  out  by  Na- 
ture, in  this  region  of  perennial  snow. 
It  would  have  been  diificult  for  Inhabi- 
tants, far  removed  from  each  other,  to 
have  kept  their  roads  open  in  winter; 
and  they  must  have  passed  the  season, 
like  so  many  bears,  sucking  their  paws, 
if  they  had  been  separated  from  each 
other  by  hills  and  hollows  :  but,  in  many 
places,  the  banks  of  this  mighty  stream 
would  seem  to  have  been  formed,  by 
its  water,  into  different  levels,  running 
parallel  i  its  course.  Upon  these 
levels,  the  First  Settlers  found  it  con- 
venient  to  establish  themselves,  in  lines, 
whose  communication  could  be  readily 
preserved. — 

At  the  island  of  Kamouraska  some  \ 
;  distance   below  that   of  New   Orleans  ' 
I  the   appearance  of    the    neighbouring 
Iheights  is  said  to  indicate  unequivocal- 
|ly  that   the  bed  of  the   St.   Lawrence 
was  there  once  at  a  much  higher  level 


50 


than  that  which  it  now  Occupies,  a  cir- 
cumstance which  corroborates  the  pre- 
sumption that  these  ridges  have  been 
originally  formed  by  the  ancient  current 
of  the  river. 

THE  TOWN  OF  WILLIAM  HENRY. 

We  came  too  about  10  in  the  morn- 
ing, at  the  town  of  William  Henry,  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  River  Sorel,  which 
forms  the  outlet  of  Lake  Champlain ; 
for  the  purpose  of  taking  in  wood,  of 
which  article  there  is  a  very  rapid  con- 
sumption, on  board  of  Steam  Boats. 


As  we  approached  the  wharf,  all  the 
people  in  the  place  seemed  to  be  taking  , 
post  at  the  landing.  Among  the  fore-  J 
most  came  puffing  a  good  humoured  ? 
looking  mortal,  genteelly  drest,  of  that  I 
descL'iption  of  bipeds  that  are  said  to 
laugh  and  be  fat.  He  is  currently 
known,  it  seems,  by  the  name  of  Sir 
John  FalstafT,  and  thus,  like  his  proto- 


pies,  a  cir- 
es  the  pre- 
have  been 
ent  curreni 


I  henhy. 

n  the  morn- 
Henry,  on 
5orel,  which 
/hamplain ; 
n  wood,  of 
rapid  con- 
n  Boats. 


F 


karf,  all  the 
o  be  taking 
ig  the  fore- 
humoured 
st,  of  that 
are  said  to 
currently 
ame  of  Sir 
his  proto- 


57 

ijpe,  of  facetious  memory,  if  he  he  not 
ivitly  himself  he  is  oftentimes  the  cause 
of  wit  in  others. 

Sir  James  Sherbrooke,  the  Governor 
General  of  both  the  Canadas,  has  a 
seat  near  this  place,  where  he  spends 
I  the  summer  months.  He  is  now  here, 
and  I  think  we  wore  told  that  Lady 
Selkirk  was  there,  on  a  visit,  from  the 
dreary  confines  of  Hudson's  Bay. 


This  is  but  a  small  town,  yet  here  is 
both  a  Catholic,  and  a  Protestant 
Church.  I  entered  the  former,  while 
the  business  of  the  boat  was  expediting ; 
and  found  the  aisles  croAvded  with  chil- 
dren, saying  their  catechism,  in  a  style 
of  tedious  rotation,  which  afibrdcd  a 
striking  contrast  to  the  compendious 
methods  of  the  Lancasterian  plan. 


I      At  the  door  I  bought  of  a  little  Girl  a 
■  penny  worth    of  molasses   candy,    for 


58 

which  I  put  into  her  hand  two  coppers, 
saying  I  did  not  want  any  more,  and  she 
should  have  them  both  :  but  so  compe- 
tently had  the  principle  of  honesty,  or 
independence,  been  impressed  upon 
her  memory  (under  the  unpromising 
system  above  mentioned,)  that  she  ran 
after  me,  with  the  odd  penny,  crying, 
"  Tencz  Monsieur !  Voici  votre  cop- 
per."* 


thi 

W( 


Beggary  is  unknown,  I  find,  in  Cana- 
da, and  thieving  is  said  to  be  very 
rare. — I  afterward  learned,  that  it  is  no 
uncommon  thing  for  the  English  inhabi- 
tants to  receive  again,  from  the  hands 
of  the  Father  Confessors,  money  which 
has  been  stolen  from  them,  without  their 
knowledge,  carefully  lapped  up;  with 
a  request  to  take  it  agaiuy  and  ask  no 
questions, 

*  Stop,  Sir ;  here's  your  penny. 


)  coppers,     I 
e,  and  she     | 
30  compe-     i 
onesty,  or 
ised   upon 
ipromising 
lat  she  ran 
ly,  crying, 
rotre  cop- 


],  in  Cana- 

p  be  very 

lat  it  is  no 

sh  inhabi- 

the  hands 

ney  which 

hout  their 

up ;  with 

nd  ask  no 


59 


THE  LAKE  OF  ST.  PIERRE. 

Passing  through  the  Lake,  and  among 
the  woody  Islands  of  St.  Pierre,  the 
weather  being  hazy,  we  almost  lo?"! 
sight  of  the  main  land;  and  when  it 
again  came  in  view,  we  were  still  tan- 
talized with  the  perpetual  repetition  of 
house  after  house,  or  rather  hut  after 
hut  (for  the  Log  hovels  of  the  Haht' 
tants^  square  hewn,  and  neatly  white 
washed,  as  they  are,  even  to  the  roofs, 
which  are  clap  boarded,  and  sometimes 
^hatched,  with  a  species  of  long  grass, 
which  grows  on  some  of  these  islands, 
^called  rherbe-au-lieu,  or  wild  grass 
lare  litUe  bigger  than  huts,)  in  which  it 
^frequently  happens  that  two  or  three 
fenerations  of  Canadians  pig  together, 
preferring  the  pleasures  of  ease  and 
fellowship,  to  all  the  advantages  of  in^- 
idependence  and  exertion.  When  ne- 
fiessity  absolutely   obliges  a  swarm  of 


66 


ii 


them  to  quit  the  parent  hive,  it 's  not  t© 
seek  an  establishment,  where  land  is 
cheap,  for  the  future  settlement  of  them- 
selves and  their  children  ;  but  to  sub- 
divide the  original  patrimony,  and  run 
up  another  hovel,  a  few  hundred  paces 
distant,  upon  the  same  unvarying  line, 
which  was  traced  out  by  their  remotest 
Ancestors,  when  they  were  obliged 
above  all  things,  to  consult  their  safetj 
from  the  irruptions  of  the  Savages. 

THE  TOWN  OF  THREE  RIVERS. 


ci 
fn 
th 


she 
by 
Wi 
brii 
mill 
boa 

D 

Towards   evening  we  stopped  for  an  jbelo 
hour  or  two  off  the  town  of  Three  Ri-  istill 
vers;  there   being  no  wharf  for  vessels  |havii 
to  come  too  at,  although  this  has  been  |of  C( 
a  place  of  trade  more  than  one  hundred  labati 
and  seventy  years  ;  and  it  was  once  the  i 
seat   of  the  Colonial  Government — so      Du 
indiflferent   are   the   Canadian   Frenclifiear 
to    matters    of   mere    accommodation. Ii'aire, 
Churches  and  Monasteries  are  the  prin  Jupon 


6] 


,  it  -s  not  t© 
ere  land  is 
3nt  of  them- 
but  to  sub- 
ny,  and  run 
ndred  paces 
arying  line, 
eir  remotest 
ere    obliged 
L  their  safety 
savages. 


cipal  features  of  the  place,  when  seen 
from  the  water.  One  of  these,  that  of 
the  Recollets,  is  overshadowed  by  gi- 
gantic elms. 

There  were  Indian  canoes  along 
shore,  this  place  being  yet  frequented 
by  the  Aborigines  of  the  North  and 
West,  with  skins  and  peltry,  which  tliey 
bring  with  them,  many  hundreds  of 
miles;  having  their  whole  families  on 
board  of  these  fragile  conveyances. 


L' 


BIVERS. 


opped  for 


Dun  night,  and  driving  rain,  drove  us 
ail  J  below ;  and  the  next  morning  we  were 
)f  Three  Ri-  4Still  thirty  or  forty  miles  from  Quebec; 
f  for  vessels  Jhaving  narrowly  escaped  the  necessity 
his  has  been  «of  coming  to  anchor,   by    the    wind's 
one  hundred  ^abating  in  the  night. 
,vas  once  the  f 

E^rnment — so      During  breakfast   time,   we   passed 
ian   Frenclifiear  the  Church  of  St.  Augustine  Cal- 
rnraodation  f^aire,  which  stands  entirely   exposed, 
re  the  prin|upon  a  naked  beach. 


62 

The  mountains  here  begin  to  rise, 
and  produce  more  interesting  scenery. 
The  country  in  view  having  before 
been  invariably  flat.  About  9  o'clock 
we  came  in  sight  of  the  heights  of 
Abraham,  on  the  left,  and  those  of 
Point  Levi,  on  the  right ;  between 
which  were  fifteen  or  twenty  sail  of 
Merchantmen,  and  Ships  of  war,  riding 
at  anchor;  the  island  of  Orleans  ap- 
pearing, in  the  back  ground  of  this  in- 
teresting picture. 

We  rapidly  passed  Wolfe's  Cove,  and 
were  brought  too,  with  admirable  dex- 
terity, at  a  wharf  of  most  inconvenient 
height;  for  the  tide  rises,  in  this  wild 
channel,  from  eighteen  to  twenty-i'our 
(eet 

Here,  and  for  half  a  mile  round  the 
precipice,  which  consists  of  a  black 
slate,  there  is  but  just  room  for  one 
narrow    street.     The    rock   is    almost 


J 1 


in  to   rise, 
)g  scenery, 
ing  before 
t  9  o'clock 
heights   of 
I    tliose    of 
;    between 
nty  sail   of 
war,  riding 
Irleans   ap- 
l  of  this  in- 


3  Cove,  and 
irable  dex- 
convenient 
this  wild 
wenty-four 


round  the 
If  a  black 
for  one 
lis    almost 


63 

perpendicular,  till  near  the  top;  and 
as  you  look  up  from  the  water,  to  the 
stone  wall,  which  caps  the  summit  of 
the  hill,  with  projecting  bastions,  you 
wonder  what  prevents  the  ponderous 
masses  from  coming  down  upon  your 
head. 

GENERAJ.  MONTGOMERY. 

In  this  dismal  ditch,  where  it  first 
became  exposed  to  a  strong  battery, 
which  has  been  since  taken  down,  on 
the  31st  day  of  December,  fell  General 
Montgomery,  and  his  Aid-de-camp, 
M'Pherson,  at  the  very  first  fire  from 
the  fort ;  and  their  disheartened  Fol- 
lowers were  easily  made  prisoners, 
after  a  hopeless  conflict.  The  snow 
being  then  four  feet  thick  upon  the 
ground. 

Yet  I  was  told,  upon  the  spot,  by  a 
Canadian  Burgher  of  confidential  ap- 


64 

pearance,  who  said  he  Avas  in  the  place, 
at  the  time  of  the  attack ;  that  the  town 
might  have  been  taken,  by  surprise,  if 
Genera!  Arnold  had  pushed  his  oppor- 
tunity, when  he  first  reached  Point 
Levi ;  instead  of  waiting  for  the  Com- 
mander in  Chief,  who  was  then  coming 
down  the  St.  Lawrence.  In  the  mean 
time  the  Citizens  had  recovered  from 
the  panic  into  which  they  had  been 
thrown,  by  so  unexpected  an  event.  Sir 
Guy  Carleton  had  thrown  himself  into 
the  town,  and  the  favourable  moment 
for  the  attack  was  irretrievably  lost. — 
The  unfortunate  General  was  interred 
by  the  British  Commander,  upon  one  of 
the  bastions  of  the  citadel,  with  what 
are  called  the  honours  of  war.* 


*  My  Informant,  an  old  Man,  and  a  native  Canadian,  had 
in  his  youth  been  under  llie  Falls  of  Montmorency ,  that  is 
to  say,  within  the  tremendous  concavity  between  the  rock 
and  the  cataract,  reverberating  with  incessant  thunder,  and 
dripping  with  perpetual  spray ;  and  he  had  often  jumped 
down  into  the  circular  basins,  of  unusual  magnitude,  worn, 
in  the    solid  reck,  from  whence  the  name  of  ths  Rivei' 


fiS 


the  place, 
;  the  town 
surprise,  if 
bis  oppor- 
led  Point 
the  Corn- 
en  coming 

the  mean 
^ered  from 
had  been 
event.  Sir 
imself  into 
moment 

Ay  lost. — 
interred 
pon  one  of 

with  what 


Canadian,  had 

reiicy  ,that  is 

leen  the  rock 

t  thunder,  and 

often  jumped 

nitude,  worn, 

of  th«  River 


QUEBEC. 

Almost  perpendicularly  over  the 
place  where  Montgomery  fell,  on  the 
very  brink  of  the  precipice,  which  is 

Chuudicre  ;  which  now  pursues  Us  foaming  course  ai  a 
distance  fur  beneatli  these  indubitable  indications  of  ine 
anterior  elevation  of  its  waters.  They  differ  in  notliing  but 
their  size  from  the  well-known  perforations  which  were 
observable  lU  tlie  Falls  of  Schuilkill,  before  the  progress  ot 
improvement  had  obliterated  all  remains  of  those  curious 
appearances.  I  embrace  this  opportunity  to  record  that 
such  things  were  within  five  miles  of  Philadelphia,  that  it  may 
not  be  utterly  forgotten  that  such  interesting  phenomena  had 
ever  existed.  Nor  can  I  forbear  to  put  the  question  which 
they  suggest,  why  may  not  these  aqueous  perforations  be 
as  well  admitted  to  prove  that  the  Cilobe  is  not  of  a  date 
exceedingly  remote  (at  least  in  its  present  form)  as  the  con- 
trary can  Oe  inferred  from  the  various  layers  of  lava  round 
Mount  Etna,  by  the  periods  of  whose  decomposition  the 
Canon  Recupero  could  read  the  history  of  the  eaith,  and 
discover,  with  un-misgiving  presumption,  that 

He  that  made  it  and  revealed  its  date,  to  Mos;v^>. 
Was  mistaken  in  its  age. 

The  largest  of  these  perforations,  which  have  ni-y  where 
been  observed  would  not  have  required  raor?  time  for  its 
production,  with  the  assistance  of  circulating  pebbles,  than 
is  allowed  by  tbc  Sacred  Historian. 

P  2 


66 

here  not  less  than  two  hundred  feet 
high,  in  Heu  of  the  ancient  Fort  or 
Chateau  of  St.  Louis,  which  name,  by 
courtesy  of  England^  it  yet  retains,  is 
erected  the  Government  House,  the 
apartments  of  which  are  occupied  by 
the  various  offices  of  the  Civil  and  Mili- 
tary Departments,  acting  under  the 
orders  of  the  Governor  General  of  Bri- 
tish America;  the  Provinces  of  New 
Brunswick  and  Nova  Scotia  being  in- 
cluded under  his  command.  But  his 
residence  is  in  a  convenient  building, 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  square. 


The  lower  town,  from  which  we  have 
not  yet  regularly  ascended,  is  a  dismal 
congeries  of  the  most  wretched  build- 
ings, rising,  in  darkness  visible,  amidst 
every  kind  of  filth,  bntween  the  rock 
and  the  river;  which  is  said  to  have 
washed  the  very  base  of  the  promon- 
tory, when  Jacques  Cartier  first  sailed 
by  the  craggy  spot.     I  quitted  the  nar- 


67 


id  reel  feet 
t  Fort  or 
I  name,  by 
retains,  is 
[ouse,  the 
cupied  by 
I  and  Mili- 
under  the 
?ral  of  Bri- 
is  of  New 

being  in- 
.     But  his 

building, 
iquare. 

h  we  have 
Is  a  dismal 
ed  build- 
7e,  amidst 
the  rock 
to  have 
promon- 
'st  sailed 
H  the  nar- 


row confines,  with  the  alacrity  of  a  Fu- 
gitive, escaping  from  the  confinement  of 
a  prison ;  (though  here. 

In  dirt  and  darkness  hundreds  stink,  content) 

by  a  long  flight  of  steps,  ending  in 
slope  after  slope  ;  down  which  trickles 
perpetually  the  superfluous  moisture  of 
the  upper  town ;  the  streets  of  which, 
in  wet  weather,  are  rinsed,  over  the 
heads  of  the  luckless  Passenger,  by 
those  projecting  spouts  which  are  so 
common  in  the  antiquated  towns  of  Ger- 
many. 

The  upper  town,  at  a  height  of  one 
hundred  and  fifty  feet,  from  which  it 
overlooks  the  lower;  and  shows  the 
shipping  so  perpendicularly  below,  that 
you  think  you  could  toss  a  biscuit  into 
them,  from  the  ramparts,  is  completely 
fortified  with  walls  and  gates,  and  all 
the  other  iuconvoniencies  of  a  garrison- 
ed town;  such  as  sentinels  on   guard. 


M 


68 


at  every  avenue,  &c.  &c.  invlcpcr^dently 
of  the  citadel,  \^ich,  with  its  outworks, 
of  considerable  extent,  occupies  an 
elevation  two  hundred  feet  higher. 


The  Cathedral,  and  the  Seminary  for 
the  Clergy,  together  with  the  Jesuits 
College,  opposite,  now  converted  into 
a  barrack  for  the  troops;  who  make  its 
once  tranquil  walls  resound  twice  a  day 
with  the  animating  sounds  of  Martial 
music — the  bugle — the  fife — and  the 
spirit  stirring  drum, — These  extensive 
establishments,  all  originally  devoted  to 
religion,  together  with  the  Hotel  Dieu, 
as  it  is  called,  after  the  name  of  a  si- 
milar institution  in  Paris,  being  a  hos- 
pital for  the  sick,  and  the  single  Sisters 
who  attend  them ;  the  Monastery  of  the 
RecoHets,  now  taken  down,  to  make 
room  for  more  useful  edifices;  and  the 
Convent  of  the  Ursuline  Nuns,  with 
other  Religious  Establishments,  and 
<heir  courts  and  gardens,  occupied  at 


69 


cpcndently 
3  outworks, 
cupies  an 
ligher. 


jminary  for 
the  Jesuits 
i^erted  into 
10  make  its 
vvice  a  day 
of  Martial 
— and    (he 
extensive 
devoted  to 
otel  Dieu, 
e  of  a  si- 
ing  a  hos- 
le  Sisters 
ry  of  the 
to  make 
1  and  the 
ns,    with 
nts,    and 
upied  at 


Jeast  one-half  of  the  ground,  within  the 
walls ;  leaving  the  ^t  'eets  narrow,  irre- 
gular, and  invariably  up  hill  and  down; 
a  circumstance  which  must  render  them 
singularly  inconvenient  in  frost  and 
snow. 

Such  is  the  famous  City  of  Quebec^ 
for  the  acquisition  of  which 

GENERAL  WOLFE 

willingly  devoted  his  life,  in  the  year 
1759  ;  the  only  ^nemento  of  which 
circumstance,  upon  the  spot,  is  a  wooden 
figure  of  the  celebrated  Hero,  in  his 
broad  skirted  coat,  with  slashed  sleeves, 
painted  red,  standing  in  a  niche,  at  the 
corner  of  a  street ;  in  the  attitude  of 
commanding  the  decisive  action,  which 
for  ever  separated  Canada  from  the  do- 
minion of  France. 

It   is  called  St.  John  Street,  and  it 
leads  to  the  Gate  of  St.  Louis,  whence 


H 


70 

through  I  know  not  how  many  covered 
ways,  protected  by  a  like  number  of 
salient  angles  (I  may  very  probably  be 
incorrect,  in  the  terms  of  fortification, 
never  having  made  the  science  of  de- 
struction my  particular  study)  it  finally 
disgorges  the  weary  Passenger,  thwart- 
ed by  recurring  obstacles,  upon  the 
open  air  of  the  adjacent  common. 

We  are  now  upon  the  Plains  of  Abra- 
ham ;  yet  the  ascent  continues  suffi- 
ciently to  cover  the  scene  of  action, 
from  the  fire  of  the  batteries.  Turning 
round  when  you  arrive  at  the  summit, 
and  looking  down  the  river,  between 
the  two  steeples  of  the  Catholic  and 
Protestant  Cathedrals,  you  have  what 
I  thought  the  most  interesting  view  oi 
Quebec,  because  it  embraces  in  the 
same  coup'tVceil.,  the  principal  objects  in 
the  vicinity.  Overlooking  the  basin 
which  is  six  miles  wide,  you  behold  the 
Island  of  Orleans,  stretched  out  befon; 


tl 


my  covered 
number  of 
)robably  be 
fortification, 
ence  of  de- 
y)  it  finally 
jer,  thwart- 
,  upon  the 
anion. 

ins  of  Abra- 
inues  suffi- 
of  action, 
Turning 
le  summit, 
r,  between 
tholic  and 
have  what 
)g  view  oi 
es  in  the 
objects  in 
he  basin 
ehold  the 
ut  befon.' 


you,  till  it  terminates  in  undistinguishing 
haze,  whilst  on  the  left  you  have  the 
north  coast,  rising  gradually  into  distant 
mountains,  from  which  the  river  Mont- 
morency precipitating  itself  into  the  St. 
Lawrence,  is  all  but  seen,  through  a  grove 
of  firs,  and  the  view  terminates  abrupt- 
ly in  the  perpendicular  Promontory  of 
Cape  Tourment,  which  is  two  thou- 
sand feet  \n^\\,  and  thorc^fore  may  he 
distijictly  seen  at  the  distance  of  thirty 
miles.  O:)  the  right  yon  !)-ive  the  rocks 
of  Point  Levi,  am]  behold  the  shipping 
in  the  harbour,  at  an  immense  depth 
below.  Imagine  the  efTrct  of  this  whole 
fairy  scene,  corniected  as  it  is  by  the 
broad  suj  faces  of  the  River,  which  is 
seen  again  upon  the  edge  of  the  hori- 
zon, winding  round  the  stupendous 
BlufT  above  mentioned,  in  its  course 
toward  the  sea. 


3 

I        The  field  of  battle  lies  a  mile  further 
west — The  common  remains  bare,  and 


f  j  1 

!    i 
r  ' 


S     I 


72 

uncultivated  ;  and  a  little  to  the  left  of 
the  road  to  Montreal,  you  perceive  a 
large  stone,  near  which  the  General 
fell.  It  may  be  easily  distinguished  by 
the  repeated  efforts  of  British  Visitors 
to  possess  themselves  of  the  minutest 
specimen  of  this  monument  of  National 
prowess,  to  carry  home  with  them,  as 
relics,  on  their  return  to  England. 

It  is  a  whitish  granite,  of  a  finer  grain 
than  usual. 


This  interesting  spot  has  been  devot- 
ed to  History,  not  by  an  English  Pro- 
fessor of  the  Fine  Arts;  but  by  our 
Countryman  West,  who  considers  him- 
self acting  patriotically  as  a  British  sub- 
ject in  celebrating  any  event,  wJiich  is 
counted  honourable  to  the  British  arms, 
that  had  occurred  before  the  Revolu- 
tion, which  established  the  Independ- 
ence of  his  country. 


/3 


the  left  of 
perceive  a 
B  General 
^uished  by 
h  Visitors 
e  minutest 
f  National 
them,  as 
land. 

finer  grain 


en  devot- 
:lish  Pro- 

hy   our 

ders  him- 

•itish  sub- 

which  is 

ish  arms, 

Revolu- 
idepend- 


Thc  French  Governor  ol  Quebec, 
M.  de  Montcalm,  fell  likewise  on  the 
field  of  battle,  yet  such  is  the  injustice 
of  Mankind  to  those  who  seek 

——the  bubble  honour,  in  the  cannon's  mouth, 

that  the  Man,  who  died  in  the  defence 
of  his  Country,  is  never  mentioned  with 
applause,  because  unsuccessful ;  whilst 
.the  victorious  Invader  of  a  Foreign 
'shore  is  puffed  to  the  skies  by  the 
.meretricious  trumpet  of  Fame. 

I 

]    I  sat  up  my  head  quarters,  to  adopt 

the  military  phraseology,  that  prevails 

here,  at  the  Union  Hotel,  in  the  Place  d* 

j^rmes  or  Parade ;  intending  from  hence 

ito  make  excursions  into  the  Country, 

lat  my  leisure ;  Malhiots   Hotel  in  St. 

iJohn's  Street  is  said   to   be   the   best 

House  of  entertainment  at  Quebec;  but 

^  generally  find  the  second  best,  in  this 

case,  best  suited  to  the  indulgence  of 

my  desultory  habits. 


1 


fj 


74 


At  this  place  I  met  daily,  at  dinner, 
while  in  town,  a  shrewd  English  Agent 
or  Commissary ;  a  man  of  mature  age, 
universal  information,  and  a  cold,  cal- 
culating temperament ;  and  a  young 
Canadian  from  the  Country,  who  was 
studying  Law  at  Quebec.  The  cool 
headed  Englishman  occupied  the  head 
of  the  table,  with  the  strictest  observ- 
ance of  the  customary  forms  of  polite- 
ness; but  amidst  the  reciprocation  of 
formal  civilities  took  care  to  maintain 
a  prudent  reserve  :  but  the  vivacious 
Frenchman  attached  himself  to  me,  im- 
mediately, with  the  most  engaging  frank- 
ness. This  is  not  the  first  time  I  have- 
had  occasion  to  remark  the  mutual  at- 
traction and  repulsion,  which  take? 
place  between  total  strangers,  on  sitting 
down  together,  for  the  first  time,  at  « 
Public  table;  nor  yet  to  observe  the 
preference  which  the  French  even 
where  discover  for  the  American  cha- 
racter.   It  was  as  good  or  a  passpor; 


u1 

I'll 


i 


,  at  dinner, 
iglish  Agent 
mature  age, 
a  cold,  cal- 
id   a  young 
-y,  who  was 
The   cool 
ed  the  head 
?.test  observ- 
US  of  polite- 
iprocation  of 
to   maintain 
he  vivacious 
elf  to  me,  im- 
gaging  frank- 
t  time  I  have- 
e  mutual  at- 
which    take? 
rs,  on  sitting 
jt  time,  at  a 
observe  the 
Irench   every 
lerican  cha- 
a  passpor; 


7D 

when  I  was  last  in  France ;  and  an  ap- 
plication under  that  name  was  respected 
by  Sentinels  on  guard,  when  permission 
was  generally  refused  to  others.  "  Vous 
•'  i)tes  Americain  !  Entrez  Monsieur,"* 
and  Commandants  who  received  me 
with  all  the  sternness  of  official  author- 
ity, have  softened  their  manner,  as  soon 
as  I  called  myself  an  American. 

I  thought  my  young  Friend  an  Eng- 
lishman, so  well  did  he  speak  the  lan- 
guage ;  and  I  afterward  understood  that 
he  had  renounced  the  French,  from  his 
childhood,  and  now  spoke  it  so  ill,  that 
he  declined  conversing  in  it,  even  when 
he  learned  that  I  spoke  French  myself. 

i 

In  the  perpetual  ebullitions  of  his 
vivacity,  he  put  me  to  the  question  a  great 
deal  more  than  is  agreeable  to  me ;  but 
,(  conkl  not  find  in  my  heart  to  discoun- 


I 


.\!'(*  von  nn  Xmcrican  '  Walk  in.  •'ir. 


7b 

teiiaiicc  liis  volubility,  or  discourage  his 
n  isfi  to  be  serviceable  to  me,  in  the  ob- 
jects of  my  pursuit. 

Accordinglj  when  I  left  Quebec,  I 
was  furnished  by  him  with  a  list  of  the 
po«t  houses  on  the  road ;  accompanied 
by  notes  of  the  inns,  and  other  infor- 
jnation,  highly  useful  to  a  Traveller  by 
land.  But  this  was  not  enough  to  satisfy 
his  assiduity,  I  must  have  letters  of  re- 
commendation to  no  less  than  four  Gen- 
tlemen of  his  acquaintance,  in  the  dif- 
ferent towns  I  should  pass  through, 
though  I  professed,  with  my  usual 
bluntness,  very  little  expectation  of  de- 
livering any  of  them. — And  there  was 
one  to  his  Grandmother  at  IVIachicho —  | 
but  I  will  not  anticipate  the  amusiug 
visit  to  Avhich  this  afterward  gave  rise 


I  recollected  some  of  the  sprighlK 
sallies  of  Monsieur  Gugij,  with  the  in- 
tention of  puttins:   them  upon  paper, 


;courage  his 
3,  in  the  ob- 


Quebec,  I 
a  list  of  the 
ccompanied 
other  infor- 
Fraveller  by 
igh  to  satisfy 
letters  of  re- 
in four  Gen-  ■ 
,  in  the  dif-   ^ 

ss    through, 
mv    usual 

ation  of  de- 
there  was 
I  a  chic  he— 

he  amusing 

Id  gave  rise 

-;i 

[e  sprightl} 
ilh  the  in- 
hon  paper 


77 

but  so  much  of  the  efTect  of  that  vola- 
tile spirit 

Whence  lively  wit  excites  to  gny  surprise, 

unavoidably  evaporates  in  repetition: 
and  so  much  of  its  pungency  de- 
pends upon  attending  circumstances, 
which  cannot  be  conveyed  by  the  pen, 
that  I  shall  not  risque  the  attempt ;  lest 
it  should  discredit  the  convivial  powers 
of  my  young  Friend,  whose  esteem  I 
should  be  very  unwilling  to  forfeit. 

One  retort,  however,  which  took 
place,  when  the  cloth  was  removed,  be- 
tween the  two  ends  of  the  table,  was 
JVatwnal,  and  I  shall  therefore  preserve 
it.  The  sober  Englishman  was  asked 
to  mention  a  historical  subject,  upon 
which  the  Student  might  exercise  his 
talents  for  composition,  during  the 
recess.  He  proposed  "  The  Rise  and 
**  Progress  of  the  most  extensive  Colony 
''upon  the  Globe"—- Not  Botany  Bay. 

G  2 


78 

sure,  said  I. — "No,  no,"  ^v  erupted 
Monsieur^  "  it  shall  be  the  i^  \\'',\^.  raid 
*'  Fall  of  Quebec." 

On  another  occasion,  the  American 
Revolution  being  in  question,  the  cause 
was  on  all  harids  allowed  to  be  just: 
*'  Nay,"  said  they,  "  the  British  Govern- 
"  ment  itself  has  virtually  acknovv- 
"  ledged  it,  in  granting,  by  Act  of  Parlia- 
•'  ment,  to  the  Canadian  Provinces,  the 
"  only  privilege,  which  the  leading  Pat- 
"  riots  at  one  time  contended  for,  that  of 
"  not  being  taxed,  without  their  own  consent,'''' 


H 


hi 

01 


My  young  Friend  would  gladly  have 
accompanied  me  to  the  Religious 
Houses;  but  to  such  places  I  always 
choose  to  go  by  myself.  One  of  my 
earliest  visitations  was  to 

THE   HOTEL  DIEU, 

where  a  Superieure  and  twenty-seven 
Sisters  take  care  of  the  sick  poor,  of 


I 


79 


d^i\^  raid 


American 

the  cause 

)  be  just: 

ih  Govern- 

acknow* 

t  of  Parlia- 

inccs,  the 

ading  Pat- 

for,  that  of 

lai  consent*'' 

adly  have 

Rehgioue 

I  always 

"|nc  of  my 


U, 

[nty-seven 
poor,  of 


both  sexes,  who  arc  lodged  in  separate 
■  ivardip,  and  furnislied,  by  them,  with 
every  thing  necessary.  The  Sisters 
however,  having  a  good  deal  of  leisure 
on  their  hands,  being  themselves  almost 
as  numerous  as  their  Patients,  employ 
or  amuse,  themselves,  in  making  orna- 
ments for  altars,  and  embroidering,  with 
fruit  and  flowers,  a  variety  of  trinkets, 
such  as  pocket  books,  and  work  bags ; 
which  visitors  take  home  with  them  for 
presents  to  children,  or  mementos  of 
their  journey.  They  are  made  of  the 
thin,  smooth,  and  pliable  bark  of  a 
tree,  which  is  common  here,  (the  French 
call  it  Boulotte)  it  will  bear  writing  on 
as  well  as  paper,  the  ink  not  spreading 
in  the  least.  I  brought  away  a  specimen 
^of  it,  from  the  Falls  of  Montmorency, 
which  1  intend  to  present  to  Peale's 
Museum. 

f 

I   introduced  mvself  to  one   of  the 

Nuns,  whom  I  met  in  the  passr.ge.    (She 


80 

was  droj^sed  in  white  linen,  very  coarse. 
Avith  a  black  veil,  pinned  close  across 
ihe  forehead,  and  thrown  back  upon 
tlie  shoulders)  by  asking  permission  to 
see  their  chapel. — "  Asseyez  vous,  Mon- 
"  sicur,  un  petit  moment."*  There  was 
a  window  seat  at  hand.  '•  Je  vais 
"  chercher  une  de  mes  Soeurs,  pour  nous 
"  accompagner."t  It  seems  they  are 
never  allowed  to  go  any  where  without 
a  Companion,  which  is  the  reason  the} 
are  always  seen  abroad  in  pairs.  She 
returned  immediately,  with  another  Sis- 
ter, who  saluted  me  with  apparent 
pleasure. 

They  introduced  me  to  the  door  of  the 
Chapel,  but  went  not  in  themselves. 
The  Sisters  having  a  private  place  ot 
devotion  appropriated  to  them,  along 
side,  they  never  enter  tlie  Public  Cha- 
pel, when  it  is  frequented  bj  others. 


'  Sit  down  OOP  mituitr,  Sir. 

i  I  am  going  for  one  of  my  Sisters  to  accompany  tif . 


1 


,  very  coarse, 
close  across 
1  back  upon 
permission  to 
jz  vous,  Mon- 
There  was 
"  Je  vais 
irs,  pour  I10U5 
US  they  are 
here  without 

reason  the) 
1  pairs.     She 

another  Sis- 
th   apparent 


e door  of  the 
themselves, 
ate  place  ol 
them,  along 
Public  Cha. 
)y  others. 

:ompnny  nr. 


81 

1  soon  returned  to  them,  finding  no- 
thing interesting  in  the  Building,  though 
it  seems  it  was  founded  in  1638,  by  the 
Dutchess  d'Aiguillon  ;  who  sent  over 
three  Nuns  of  this  order,  from  the  Hos- 
pital at  Dieppe,  on  the  establishment 
of  this  charitable  Institution.  It  con- 
tains but  two  pictures  worth  attention. 
They  are  large  pieces,  without  frames, 
by  good  French  Masters,  leaning  against 
the  walls  of  the  side  Chapels,  as  if  they 
had  never  been  hungup.  The  subjects 
I  remember  were  the  Visitation  of  St. 
Elizabeth,  and  the  Dispute  with  the 
Doctors  of  the  Law. 

The  two  Sisters  had  waited  for  me, 
in  the  Sacristy,  behind  the  Chapel. 
They  seemed  gladly  to  embrace  the 
opportunity  for  a  few  minutes  conver- 
sation, with  a  stranger.  I  was  curious 
about  their  regulations.  "  Vous  n'avez 
"done  pas  de  Communaute  chcz  vous. 


82 

•  Monsieur."*  We  had  not  any.  I  was 
from  Philadelphia.  "  Cependant,"  said 
one  of  them,  "  on  en  a  a  la  Louisiane. 
"  Mais  ce  n'est  pas  si  loin.  Voila  la 
"  raison  apparamment."t  Did  they  per- 
mit women  who  had  once  been  married, 
to  take  the  veil?  "  Oui  Monsieur,  Si 
'*elles  n'ont  point  d'enfans.  Celapourr- 
"  oit  les  distraire.  Etd'ailleursellesdoi- 
"  vent  plutot  s'occuper  a  elever  leurs 
"  Enfans. — II  y  avoit  dernierement  Ma- 
"  dame  une  telle  qui  vouloit  faire  pro- 
"  fession :  Mais  Monseigneur  FEveque 
"  a  dit  qu'il  etoit  plutut  de  son  devoir 
"  d'elever  ses  Enfans,  que  de  soigner  les 
"  Malades."5i    Having  once  entered  the 

*  H»ve  you  no  Communities  in  your  Country,  Sir  ? 

t  Yet  thoy  have  them  in  Louisiana  :  but  that  is  not  so  far 
That  must  be  the  reason. 

t  Yes  Sir.  If  they  have  no  children-  That  might  divldc 
iheir  affections  ;  and  beside,  they  are  bound  in  duty  (o  bring 
up  their  children.  It  is  but  lately  that  Madame  Snch-a-one 
wanted  to  enter  the  House  ;  but  my  Lord  Bishop  told  her 
that  it  was  rather  her  business  to  see  to  the  education  of  he 
children,  than  to  take  rare  of  fhc  Sirk. 


83 


ny.  I  was 
ant,''  said 
Louisiane. 
Vaila  la 
1  they  per- 
n  married, 
)nsieur,  Si 
;!^elapourr- 
s  elles  doi- 
ever  leurs 
jment  Ma- 

faire  pro- 
•  TEveque 
3on  devoir 
soigner  les 

itered  the 


try,  Sir  ? 

lat  is  not  so  fai 

it  might  divide 
duty  to  bring 

nc  Suc-h-a-one 
ishop  told  her 
ucation  i>f  he 


House,  were  they  obliged  to  perpetual 
residence? — "  Apres  uii  an  et  demi  de 
''  profession  Ton  ne  peut  plus  soriir, 
"  Jusques  la  il  est  permis  de  se  retirer 
*'  (laughing)  Combieny  at-il  degens  ma- 
"  rics,  Monsieur,  qui  voudroient  bien  re- 
"  noncer  au  mariage,  si  cela  se  pouvoit, 
"aprcs  un  an  et  demi  de  noviciat  ?"* — 
Assuredly,  said  I — a  ^reatmany. — But  I 
took  the  vow  of  matrimony,  twenty  years 
ago,  and  have  never  had  occasion  to 
repent  my  obligation. 

THE  CATHEDRAL  OF  QUEBEC. 

I  NEXT  went  to  see  the  Cathedral, 
which  is  a  plain  rough  building,  on  the 
outside,  with  a  handsome  Steeple,  as 
usual,  covered  with  tin. — It  is  erected 
on  one  side  of  the  great  door. — Within, 

*  After  a  year  and  a  half  of  trial,  they  are  no  lone-er  per- 
mitted to  withdraw.     Until  then  they  are  at  liberty  to  do  bO. 
How  many  married  people  are  there,  who  would   gladly 
renounce  matrunony,  after  the  ojperience  of  a  year  and  a 
half' 


\  i 


'  I 


u 

this  Church  has  much  of  the  imposing 
efToct  ol'  European  Cathedrals,  arising 
from  great  length,  and  loftj  height. 


t 
^ 


I 


was  struck 
nscot  c 


with  the  rich  carved 
Wainscot  of  the  Choir;  much  in  the 
style  of  that  of  Notre  Dame,  at  Paris. 
Over  it  four  Corinthian  columns  support 
an  arch,  in  scroll  work.  Upon  this 
rests  the  globe,  on  which  stands  a  Fi- 
gure of  the  Redeemer,  in  the  attitude 
of  benediction,  holding  in  his  left  hand, 
or  rather  leaning  upon  a  ponderous 
cross  ;  ra^-s  of  glory  emanating  from  the 
body  on  all  sides.  This  part  is  painted 
white,  and  the  whole  work  is  admirable, 
both  in  design,  and  execution  j  as  well 
as  the  open  work  of  the  Bishop's 
throne,  and  the  Stalls  for  the  Canons ; 
but  the  sculptured  Pulpit,  and  the 
Statues,  in  the  Choir,  are  painted  and 
gilded,  in  a  gaudy  style,  unworthy  of 
notice,  or  description. 


tie  imposing 
rals,  arising 
height. 

rich  carved 
luch  in  the 
le,  at  Paris. 
inns  support 

Upon  this 
stands  a  Fi- 
the  attitude 
is  left  hand, 

ponderous 
ing  from  the 
rt  is  painted 

admirable, 
ion  J  as  well 
e    Bishop's 

le  Canons ; 
and    the 

ainted  and 

worthy  of 


85' 

The  Sacristan  now  accosted  me,  ob- 
serving  my  peculiar  curiosity.  He  was 
a  hard  headed  veteran  of  the  Church, 
with  all  his  features  settled  into  that 
imperturbable  insensibility,  which  is 
naturally  contracted  by  beholding, 
without  interest, or  regard,  tlic  perpetual 
flux  and  reflux  of  the  tide  of  human 
life  at  the  doors  of  a  Catholic  Cathe- 
dral, where  every  period  of  existence 
from  the  cradle  to  the  grave  is  in  con- 
tinual rotation. 

1  had  myself  seen  that  morning  the 
diflerent  ceremoni('s  of  a  Christening, 
and  a  Burial ;  nothing  was  wanting 
but  a  marriage  to  complete  the  whole 
history  of  life:  and  that  I  am  told  often 
takes  place,  conteiuporaneously^  al«o. 

I  asked  him  whether  the  Church  was 
not  a  hundred  and  fifty  feet  long? — 
He  said  it  was  one  hundred  and  eighty- 
.six.     He  had  measured  it  himself.     It 

H 


% 


86 

is  ninety  wide,  and  the  middle  aisle, 
which  is  divided  from  the  side  aisles  by 
massy  arcades,  is  at  least  sixty  high. 

In  what  year,  said  I,  was  the  Church 
erected  ?  "  Monsieur,  il  y  a  environ  cent 


ti 


cuiq 


uantc   ans.     Je  ne   sau 


iron 
rois  vous 


**  dire  le  jour  mcme."*  But  the  carv- 
ed work  in  the  Choir  is  not  of  that  age. 
(It  is  of  some  rich  wood  not  yd  much 
darkened  by  time)  ^*  Cest  que  1'  Eglise 
**  a  etc  brulee  il  ya  environ  cinquante 
'*  ans."t  The  Pulpii,  said  1,  was  probably 
saved  from  Tiie  wreck.  (It  is  of  Gothic 
construction,  and  grossly  painted,  in 
colours.)  "  Non,  Monsieur,  Rien  ne  fut 
sauveTout  est  aneuf*'J  Was  the  beau- 
tiful CLU'ved  work  of  the  choir  made  in 
this  Country  ?  "  Oui,  Monsieur,  ^''a  etc 
*^  fait  par  un  do  nos  propres  Canadiens, 

*  Sir,  ilis  aboikl  one  luiJitlred  ami  fifty  years  old.    I  can- 
not tell  you  to  the  very  day. 

♦  No,  for  the  Church  was  euth-ely  burnt  down  about  fifty 
years  n^^y 

\  No,  .Mr,  nothing  was  -.aved  ;  every  thing  is;  new. 


LI 

oi 

sh 

oil 


I 


(Idle  aisle, 
e  aisles  by 

ty  liigh. 

he  Church 

iviron  cent 

urois  vous 

L  the  carv- 

)f  that  age. 

yet  much 

ue  1'  EgUse 

I  cinqnante 

isprobahly 

of  Gothic 

ainted,    iu 

lien  ne  fut 

;  the  beau- 

r  made  in 

ir,  ^''a  etc 

anadiens, 

Irs  old.  I  can- 
Iwn  about  fifty 
t  ne«'. 


87 

••  qui  a  I'ait  le  voyage  de  France  exprcs 
''  pours'en  rendre  capable.'**  Was  that 
Lewis  XHI,  or  Lewis  XIV,  that  stood 
on  the  right  hand  of  tlie  altar  .-^  (A  Mar- 
shall of  France,  perhaps  Montmorenci, 
on  the  opposite  side.)  •*  Non,  Monsieur, 
''  ce  nest  ni  I'un  ni  Tautre.  C'est — C'est 
"  — Le  Louis  des  C roi miles. ''''\  It  is  then 
Lewis  the  IX,  or  St.  Lewis,  said  I. — "  Eh 
'•  oui,  oui,  Monsieur,  vous  avez  raison. 
"  Mais  comment  Tavcz  vous  reconnu 
"  pour  ttre  roi  .'^"J  By  the  crown  and 
sceptre.  ''Oh!  bin,"§  said  the  old  Sexton, 
(who  appeared  to  have,  till  that  moment 
overlooked  his  kingship,  and  consider- 
ed the  canonized  Lewis,  as  nothing 
more  than  one  of  the  Saints  of  the 
Choir — it     being    not     uncommon     to 

•  \'Vi  ^ii',  it  was  made  by  one  of  our  Canadians,  who  wciii 
over  to  Franco  on  purpose  to  qualify  himself  for  tiie  work. 

t  No  sir,  it  is  neither  of  them.  It  Is — It  is — the  Loui.s  oi 
the  Crusades. 

\  Yos.  yes",  sir;  you  are  right — But  hoAV  did  yon  know 
liim  to  be  a  King  ? 

s^  <)'  true. 


J 


♦crown  the  figures  of  saints  in  Catholic 
Churches.)  "  Les  autres  d'alentour," 
continued  he,  "  sont  St.  Pierre,  St.  Paul, 

*^  St. He  could  not  recollect  the 

"  name  of  the  third — it  was  the  Marshall 

"  of  France.    St. Vous  sentez  bien 

*•  que  nous  ne  les  crojons  pas  les  verita- 
"  hies  Saints  memes ;  mais  seulement 
'*  leurs  representants."*  O  yes,  yes,  I 
understand  it. 

TUE  CHAPEL  OF   THE  URSLLI^ES 

Next  morning  I  went  to  the  Chapel 
of  the  Ursulines,  in  the  expectation  of 
seeing  the  Nuns,  at  their  devotions : 
but  in  that  I  was  disappointed.  An 
old  Priest  was  saying  mass,  at  a  mag- 
nificent altar — the  Tabernacle  uncom- 
monly splendid.  Corinthian  Columns 
— gilded  Statues — a  bishop  on  one  side. 

*  Tlie  others  round  are  St.  Peter  St.  Paul  St. Yon 

umlerstaiicl  tliat  vvt;  do  not  take  tbeni  lo  be  (lie  very  -einl.' 
themselves,  but  only  their  representative'^ 


5  in  Catholic 
d'alentour," 
Jrre,  St.  PauJ, 
recollect  the 
the  Marshall 
3  sentez  bleu 
as  les  verita- 
■i  seulement 
^  jes,  yes,  I 


RSL  LINES. 

the   Chapel 
>ectation  of 
devotions  ; 
iiited.     An 
at  a  mog- 
gie unciirn- 
n  Column?^ 
n  one  side. 

ill    St. VOM 

i  (lie  very  -eiiils 


89 

and  a  Queen  on  the  other.  (Probably 
Ann  of  Austria,  the  Mother  of  Lewis 
XIV,  as  this  institution  was  founded  in 
1639.)  St.  Joseph  uith  the  Child  in  his 
aims,  over  head.  Seraphs  are  recli- 
ning in  the  angles  of  the  pediment,  and 
Cherubs  spread  their  wings  above,  and 
below,  the  niches.  Bas  reliefs  of  Apos- 
tles, and  Evangelists,  with  their  appro- 
priate emblems,  occupying  the  pannels 
of  the  pedestals.  All  this  in  the  finest 
style  of  the  Age  of  Lewis  XIV,  both 
sculpture,  and  architecture. 

This  rich  Chapel  may  be  eighty  feet 
long,  forty  wide,  and  forty  high.  It  is 
now  dark  with  age,  though  it  has  always 
been  neatly  kept,  by  the  piety  of  the 
Nuns,  and  has  therefore  suffered  no- 
thing else  from  time. 

On  the  left  is  a  side  Chapel  hung  with 
Gobelin    tapestry,    (probably    a    Royal 
present,  as  Lewis  XIV,  kept  that  ma- 
il 2 


90 


nuihctory  In  his  own  hands  for  such  pur- 
poses.) On  the  right  is  a  large  arched 
grate,  with  a  hlack  curtain  drawn  he- 
hind  it,  through  which  the  Nuns  were 
occasionally  heard,  hemniing,  and 
coughing  ;  for  this  was  a  silent  mass.  I 
now  despaired  of  seeing  the  particular 
ol)jccts  of  my  curiosity :  hut  presently 
the  curtains  were  drawn,  from  within, 
and  discovered  the  Nuns,  kneeling,  in 
their  black  dresses,  with  white  neck- 
kerchiefs. — This  was  at  the  moment  of 
the  elevation  of  the  Host.  And  no 
sooner  was  it  over  than  the  curtains  were 
closed  again,  and  the  slender  Audience 
seemed  to  be  left  behind,  to  receive  the 
^^  Dominus  vobiscum,"*  and  coldly  re* 
-pond  *'  Amen." 


U] 


tl] 


The  paintings  in  this  elegant  Chapel 
^^re  chiefly  unmeaning  representationiK 


*  The  Lord  be  with  yoiV 


91 


such  pur- 
ge arched 
drawn  be- 
suus  were 
ling,  and 
it  mass.  I 
particular 

presently 
m  within, 
eeling,  in 
lite  neck- 
noment  of 

And    no 
ainswere 
udience 

eive  the 

Idly  rC" 


Chapel 
rntationiK 


of  celebrated  Sisters  of  the  order,  in 
attitudes  of  adoration,  or  beatification 
— on  their  knees — or  in  the  clouds. 
There  is,  however,  upon  these  venera- 
ble walls  a  historical  representation  of 
The  Genius  of  France,  just  landed 
upon  the  shores  of  Canada,  from  a  Eu- 
ropean vessel,  which  is  seen  moored  to 
the  rocks.  She  is  pointing  to  c  stan- 
dard of  the  cross,  at  the  mast  head  ; 
and  olfering,  with  the  other  hand,  to  a 
female  Savage,  the  benefits  of  religious 
instruction;  which  she  receives  upon 
her  knees.  Wig-wains,  children,  &c* 
are  seen  in  the  back  ground. 

This  Conventual  Institution,  proba- 
bly the  most  strict  in  North  America, 
short  of  the  Vice-royalty  of  Mexico, 
owes  its  rise  to  tiie  piety  and  self-denial 
of  a  rich  young  Widow,  who  devoting 
herself  to  religion,  upon  the  death  of 
her   Husband,  chose   Quebec  for   hcp 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


// 


c^ 


«/ 


f/j 


K1 


1.0 


i.i 


11.25 


1^  lis  IIIIIM 


U    II  1.6 


V 


<^ 


^    ^  "^  v^ 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


iV 


V 


■1>^ 


:\ 


\ 


r 


6^ 


I 

4 
i 


^ 


)  I 


•I 


\\  I 


3l: 


i..  1 


!   I 


92 

retreat,  as  a  place  of  seclusion  from  the 
world. 

THE  GENERAL.  HOSPITAL  AND  THE 
WHITE  NUNS. 

The  General  Hospital,  which  is  beau- 
tifully located,  in  a  retired  situation,  on 
the  banks  of  the  little  River  St.  Charles, 
about  a  mile  westward  of  the  town,  now 

* 

only  remained  to  be  explored. 

I  walked  that  way,  one  evening, 
when  all  nature  wears  an  aspect  of 
tranquillity,  and  invites  to  meditation, 
or  repose. 


./ 


I    unc 
La< 


• 


;.    ! 


i  ' 


It  is  the  most  regular  of  all  the  reli- 
gious edifices  of  this  place,  and  remains, 
without  alteration,  or  addition,  as  it 
was  originally  founded  by  its  beneficent 
Patron,  M.  de  St.  Vallier,  the  second 
Bishop  of  Quebec,  who  endowed  it,  I 
believe  by  will,  in   the  year  1693,  for 


rj 


93 


from  the 


ND  THE 

I  is  beau- 

ation,  on 

Charles, 

)wn,  now 


evening, 
spect  of 
dilation, 


he   reli- 

remains, 
,   as  it 

neficent 
second 
ed  it,  I 

693,  for 


n 


f 


4 


the  relief  of  the  aged  and  infirm.  They 
are  attended  by  thirty-seven  Sisters, 
under  the  direction  of  a  Superieure^  or 
Lady  Abbess. 

This  extensive  Building  forms  a  hol- 
low square,  two  stories  high ;  and  the 
front  next  the  town  has  a  venerable 
appearance  of  antiquity,  with  its  high 
pitched  roof,  and  broad  portals  at  each 
end,  under  the  protection  of  St.  Jo- 
seph, and  the  Virgin  (if  1  remember 
right)  in  their  respective  niches.  For- 
tunately I  did  not  enter  it,  at  this  time, 
but  sauntered  about  the  lonely  environs 
of  the  place,  thinking  upon  the  melan- 
choly absurdity  of  those  human  inven- 
fi«ai,  and  traditions,  by  which  God  is 
robbed  of  his  honour,  so  to  speak,  and 
his  Son  Jesus  Christ,  is,  as  it  were,  su- 
perseded by  Joseph  and  Mary;  as  if 
the  heaven-born  Saviour  were  yet  under 
the  tutelage  of  earthly  Parents. 


H 


hi 


n 


S  : 


li 


94 

I  say,  fortunately,  because  this  cir» 
GUtnstance  brought  me  here  a  second 
time,  but  a  few  minutes  before  a  pro- 
cession took  place,  which  was  the  most 
impressive  thing  of  the  kind  I  ever  saw 
in  Canada. 

I  had  passed  through  the  lower  ward, 
into  the  Chapel,  attended  by  one  of  the 
Patients,  who  told  me  on  my  giving  him 
something  to  discharge  him,  that  there 
was  going  to  be  a  procession  of  the 
Nuns  that  afternoon,  agreeably  to  the 
rules  of  the  Founder,  which  enjoin,  it 
seems,  the  formal  visitation  of  the  al- 
tars, in  the  respective  wards,  to  be  per- 
formed by  the  Sisterhood,  in  full  habit, 
at  certain  set  times  in  every  month. 

I  bade  him  bring  me  word,  when  the 
procession  was  coming,  and  applied 
myself  to  the  perusal  of  two  broad 
tablets,  upon  the  walls,  which  narrated 


95 


this  cir* 
I  second 
;  a  pro- 
the  most 
gver  saw 


ev  ward, 
ne  of  the 
ving  him 
at  there 
n  of  the 
V  to  the 
in  join,  it 
f  the  al- 
D  be  per- 
ill  habit, 
onth. 

hen  the 
applied 
0  broad 
larrated 


1 


in  French  verse,  the  style  and  title— the 
talents  and  the  virtues,  of 

JEAN  BAPTISTE  LE  CHEVAJLLIER, 
DE  ST.  VAJLLIER, 

who  had  been  two  and  forty  years 
bishop  of  Quebec,  when  he  founded  this 
beneficent  Institution,  and  was  here  in- 
terred, at  the  foot  of  the  altar. 

I  had  not  near  finished  the  verses, 
which  had  no  particular  merits  of  their 
own  to  recommend  them,  when  my  At- 
tendant returned,  in  haste,  to  tell  me 
that  the  procession  was  forming.  As  I 
re-entered  the  ward,  at  the  upper  end, 
the  Sisterhood  were  coming  in  at  the 
other.  They  were  preceded  by  a  Lay 
Sister,  beaiing  a  silver  crucifix.  She 
was  evidently  in  her  noviciate,  having 
only  the  white  veil,  which  was  pinned 
across  her  forehead,  and  fell  loose  upon 
her  shoulders.    The  rest  had  all  black 


h 


m 


> 


J 
i 


II 


■n  1 


f* 


\     « 


f  I 


H 


I.-  ' 

1  r    : 


90 

veils,  of  the  same  ^  escription ;  but  the 
dress  of  all  of  them  was  white,  with 
large  open  flannel  sleeves,  a  small  cross 
depending  from  the  neck. 

The  cross  bearer  was  the  handsomest 
woman,  or  rather,  she  was  the  only 
handsome  woman,  I  had  seen  in  Canada 
—very  fair — but  tall,  without  colour, 
and  her  unusual  height  was  set  off  to 
advantage  by  the  little  girls,  that  car- 
ried lighted  tapers,  on  either  side  of 
her.  But  there  was  something,  even  in 
her  downcast  eyes',  which  failed  to  con- 
vince me,  that  the  fair  proselyte  had 
voluntarily  drawn  the  lot  of  a  Recluse. 
They  all  three  took  their  station  on  one 
side,  directly  opposite  to  where  I  stood, 
while  the  Superior,  between  two  Sis- 
ters, bearing,  with  both  hands,  a  pon- 
derous Image  of  the  Virgin,  approach- 
ed the  altar;  and,  kneeling  down  before 
it,  was  imitated  by  ail  the  Sisterhood, 
^s  they  followed  her,  in  pairs. 


this 


I 


I  the 
resi 


but  tiit: 
ite,  with 
mil  cross 


tidsomest 
the  only 
)  Canada 
t  colour, 
set  off  to 
that  car- 
r  side  of 
[,  even  in 
d  tocon- 
lyte  had 
Recluse. 

n  on  one 
i  I  stood, 

wo  Sis- 
|,  a  pon* 

►proach- 
before 

terhood, 


97 

They  remained  for  some  minutes  in 
this  uneasy  attitude,  singing  aloud, 

Virgo  piissima  !  Ora  pro  nobis  ! 
J  Mater  dolorissima !  Ora  pro  nobis !  k,c.  SiC" 

*  the  Catholic  Spectators  on  their  knees 
responding  with  zealous  vociferation, 

Domine  exaudi  nos  \\ 


THE  LEGISlulTURE  OF  CANADA. 

The  Legislature  of  Canada  holds  its 
sittings  in  what  was  once  the  Bishop's 
Palace,  a  Building  which  has  been  long 
allowed  to  be  applied  to  other  uses,  by 
the  now  humble  Bishops  of  the  See, 
who  are  content  to  reside  in  the  Semi- 
nary, among  their  clergy ;  and  the  old 
Chapel  has  been  handsomely  fitted  up, 
by  Government,  for  the  accommodation 
of  the  Legislature. 

*  Most  pious  Virgin  !  Pray  for  us.  Most  painful  Mother! 
Pray  for  us. 

t  Lord,  we  beseech  thee  to  hear  u.«.  Or,  as  it  stands  ia 
Our  Protestant  Liturgy,  Good  Lord,  we  beseech  thee  to  hear 


I«    ) 


Si 


I' 


'l 


t  I 

(  I 


^'S 


I     < 


! 


fell:  p. 
I'  i. ' 

-  i ' 


98 

I  walked  into  it  one  day,  with  per- 
mission from  one  of  their  Secretaries, 
who  was  writing  in  the  Antichamber. 

The  Speaker  sits,  as  at  St.  Stephen's, 
in  a  high  backed  chair,  at  the  upper 
end  of  the  room,  surmounted  by  his 
Majesty's  arms.  The  Members  sit  upon 
benches,  without  desks.  It  will  be  re- 
collected that  our  Delegates  in  Con- 
gress occupy  armed  chairs,  and  every 
Member  is  provided  with  a  desk.  Which 
arrangement  is  best  adapted  to  the  va- 
rious purposes  of  discussion,  and  deli- 
beration, I  shall  not  venture  to  opine; 
as  it  is,  evidently,  one  of  those  ques- 
tions upon  which  much  may  be  said  oti 
both  sides. 

The  Proceedings  in  this  miniature 
Parliament,  for  so  it  is  called,  take 
place  in  both  languages ;  though  I  per- 
ceived by  the  names  of  the  actual  Mem- 
bers, which  hung  up  in  the  lobby,  that 


I 


fei 
Fi 


ve 


n 
■•ii 


99 


with  per- 
jcretaries, 
lamber. 

Stephen's, 
the  upper 
ed  by  his 
rs  sit  upon 
ill  be  re- 
s  in  Con- 
md  every 
;k.  Which 
to  the  va- 
and  deli- 
to  opine; 
ose  ques- 
)e  said  on 


liniature 

led,   take 

|gh  I  per- 

lal  Mem- 

)by,  that 


I 


lew  of   the   Representatives   are   now 
French. 

The  debates  are  said  to  be  sometimes 
very  animated ;  but  they  are  more  fre- 
quently personal,  than  political:  The 
Crown  having  a  veto  upon  all  their 
proceedings. 

After  various  changes,  in  the  system 
of  government,  had  been  adopted  and 
rejected,  in  the  vain  expectation  of  re- 
conciling the  customs  of  France,  with 
the  laws  and  usages  of  England,  in  the 
year  1792,  all  the  benefits  of  the  British 
Constitution  were  extended  to  this  part 
of  the  Empire,'  and  the  Province  of 
Canada  was  divided  into  two  separate 
Governments ;  a  Legislative  Council, 
and  Assembly,  beir)g  allotted  to  each. 
But  both  of  them  were  placed,  together 
with  the  lower  provinces  of  New-Bruns- 
wick, and  Nova  Scotia,  under  the  con- 
trol of  the  same  Governor  General. 


I 


i! 


100 


VEDESTRIAN  EXCURSION  10  THE 
FALLS  OF  MONTMORENCY. 

My  curiosity  being  now  nearly  satis- 
fied, at  Quebec,  I  sat  out,  by  myself,  on 
a  pedestrian  excursion  to  the  Falls  of 
Montmorency,  about  eight  miles  north 
cast  of  that  City. 


i\[ 


.  1  , 


i 


T 


On  crossing  the  River  St.  Charles,  I 
found  myself  in  a  muddy  plain,  or  bot- 
tom, of  black  mould,  mixed  with  sand  ; 
through  which  I  with  difficulty  picked 
my  steps,  for  a  mile  or  two;  after  which 
tho  rising  ground  became  stony  and 
rough. 

On  the  left  I  passed  two  or  three 
large  old  French  Mansion  Houses,  very 
long  in  Front,  but  shallow.  They 
wore  the  appearance  of  desertion,  and 
decay;  but  the  Church  of  Beauport,  on 
the  right,  with  its  two  steeples,  and  a 


v';i 


I'  ■'  i  ! 

■  i 


Hi- 


101 


10  THE 

arly  satis- 
myself,  on 
c  Falls  of 
iles  north 


Charles,  I 
in,  or  bot- 
nth  sand ; 
y  picked 
er  which 
oi\y   and 


or  three 
ses,  very 
They 
ion,  and 
port,  on 
,  and  a 


I 


comfortable  college  for  the  Priests, 
looked  in  good  repair,  I  envied  thera 
nothing  however  but  a  small  grove  of 
trees,  on  a  projecting  knowl,  through 
which  they  had  laid  out  a  gravel  walk. 
It  terminated  at  an  oaken  table,  with 
seats  for  study,  or  reflection ;  from  which 
tranquil  spot  the  Fathers  could  see 
Quebec,  without  any  intervening  ob- 
ject, but  the  majestic  river,  and  the 
shipping  in  the  harbour. 

About  noon  I  reached  the  river 
Montmorency,  which  is  crossed  by  a 
bridge,  a  little  above  the  Fall.  Having 
overlooked  the  foaming  torrent  from  a 
grove  of  Firs  (The  French  call  them  ele- 
gantly Pinettes)  I  crossed  the  bridge,  and 
dined,  or  rather  would  have  dined,  at  a 
small  Inn,  on  the  other  side.  But  I  found 
the  brown  bread  was  totally  unpalatable 
to  my  pampered  appetite,  and  nothing 
else,  but  eggs,  were  to  be  had. 

i2 


I  i 


lill 


I';, 

I    I 


'  I 
'  i 
!   I 


'n 


li 


102 

A  quiet  nap  however  refreshed  me — I 
forgot   the  want   of  dinner;    and  in  the 
afternoon   I  went  round   the  hill,  on  the 
lower  side  of  the  Falls.     I  saw  them,  on 
the  way,  to  much  better  advantage  than 
before ;  pouring,  in  an  unbroken  sheet  of 
foam,  into  the  abyss  below  ;  and,  descend- 
ing to  the  beach,  I  approached  the  thun- 
dering cataract,  near  enough  to  be  sprink- 
led with  the  spray  ;  and  to  satisfy  myself 
that  the  height  of  this  celebrated  fall  has 
been  much  over-rated.       It  does  not  in 
reality  exceed,  if  it  even  equals  the  Gigan- 
tic Falls  of  Niagara,  in  the  smallest  of 
their  dimensions,  I  mean  that  of  height. 

Heriot  calls  it  two  hundred  and  forty- 
six  feet,  which  is  about  a  hundred  feet  be- 
yond the  truth;  and  yet  he  must  have 
viewed  it,  with  attention,  as  he  gives  a 
beautiful  view  of  Montmorency. 

The  bank  over  which  it  rolls,  consists 
of  a  lime  slate,  in  horizontal  strata,  of 


i 


hi 


I 


103 


ed  mc — I 
td  in  the 
II,  on  the 
them,  on 
age  than 
1  sheet  of 
descend- 
the  thun- 
)e  sprink- 
fy  myself 
d  fall  has 
es  not  in 
le  Gigan- 
lallest  of 
leight. 

id  forty- 
feet  he- 
ist  have 
gives   a 


Iconsists 
rata,  of 


various  thicknesses,  connected   togctlier 
by  occasional  veins  of  fibrous  gypsum. 

The  rocks  of  Montmorency  have  re- 
ceived little  injury,  or  rather  impression, 
from  the  course  of  the  water ;  which  does 
not  appear  to  have  receded  many  feet  from 
what  must  have  been  its  pristine  situation, 
at  the  period  of  Noah's  flood — pcihaps 
long  before  :  for  I  am  one  of  those  geolo- 
gists who,  with  Professor  Cuvier,  of  the 
French  Institute,  do  not  believe  that  the 
face  of  the  earth  was  much,  if  at  all,  ma- 
terially, changed,  at  the  time  of  the 
Delude :  the  waters  of  which  miijht  rise 
to  the  height  mentioned  in  scripture,  and 
withdraw  their  covering,  without  leaving 
any  more  permanent  marks  of  their  irrup- 
tion, than  the  mud  and  slime  which  they 
would  naturally  deposite. 

It  falls  upon  a  flat  rock,  which  bears 
no  marks  below  the  present  basin,  of 
having    ever    been   more   worn   by   the 


^f 


ff 


:  \ 


II ; 


i  \: 


'i  ! 
i  • 


ft 


, 


104 

waters,  than  it  is  at  present ;  and  the  ad- 
joining banks  are  within  a  few  hundred 
feet  of  the  great  river,  to  which  they 
descend  almost  perpendicularly. 

These  circumstances  disprove  the 
fond  presumption,  so  lightly  adopted 
by  Schultz,  and  others,  that  the  Ca* 
taract  of  Niagara;  which  now  pours 
over  a  perpendicular  wall  of  similar 
rocks  (as  no  doubt  it  has  done  from  the 
beginning,  and  will  continue  to  do,  to 
the  end  of  time)  has  receded,  from  a 
distance  of,  I  forget  how  many  miles, 
below;  wearing  away  the  solid  rock, 
at  the  rate  of  so  many  inches  in  a  year. 

This  groundless  hypothesis  is  accom- 
panied with  sage  calculations  of  how 
nearly  this  prodigious  wear  and  tear 
can  be  kept  within  the  limits  of  the 
Mosaic  Chronology;  and  how  much 
more  time — looking  forward  with  fearful 
expectations,  will  be  sufficient  to  wear 


i  i  i 


105 


d  the  ad- 
hundred 
lich   they 


>rove  the 

adopted 

the  Ca- 

)w   pours 

of  similar 

J  from  the 

to  do,  to 

d,  from  a 

ny  miles, 

olid  rock, 

n  a  year. 

s  accom- 
is  of  how 
and  tear 
ts  of  the 
►w  much 
th  fearful 
to  wear 


through  the  remaining  bed  of  the  river, 
and  let  out  the  waters  of  Lake  Erie,  to 
deluge  the  subjacent  plains  !* 

*  The  rocks  of  Montmorency  afford  ample  confirmation  of 
the  comparatively  recent  date  of  the  present  state  of  things, 
according  to  the  Mosaic  Chronology  ;  as  it 's  evident  from 
the  proximity,  or  ratlier  jiixta-position,  of  this  Cataract  ta 
the  River  St.  Lawrence,  into  which  it  falls  almost  perpen- 
dicularly, in  connexion  with  the  unworn  surface  of  the 
flat  rock,  on  which  it  falls,  (every  where  but  at  the  existing 
basin)  that  these  waters  could  not  have  continued  so  to  fall 
for  any  very  long  period  of  time,  without  having  worn  awajr 
the  rocks  over  which  they  pour,  in  a  much  greater  degree, 
than  they  have  yet  done. 

I  consider  these  Falls  as  affording  palpable  proof  of  Profes- 
sor Cuvier's  opinion,  in  his  Theory  of  the  Earth,  "  That,  by  a 
careful  examination  of  what  has  taken  place,  on  the  surface 
of  the  Globe,  since  it  has  been  laid  dry,  for  the  last  lime, 
and  its  continents  have  assumed  their  present  form,  (for 
the  learned  Professor  traces  the  formation  of  the  rocks  and 
mountains,  through  gradual,  and  successive,  changes,  both 
of  composition,  and  position,  at  least  in  such  parts  as  are 
somewhat  elevated  above  iiie  icvr.i  of  lUo  occRn)  it  may  be 
clearly  seen,  that  this  last  Revolution,  and  consequently 
the  establishment  of  our  existing  Societies  (in  other  words, 
the  creation  of  the  Human  race)  cannot  have  been  very  re- 
mote. Accordingly,  it  is  obvious  to  remark,  that  among 
the  bones  [of  animals]  found  in  a  fossil  state,  those  of  the 
Human  species  have  never  yet  been  discovered."  Several 
of  those  specimens,  which  had  passed  fc*  remains  of  that 
kind,  Cuvier  examined,  with  attention,  and  that  able  Na- 
turalist declares,  that  not  a  single  fragment,  among  thero« 
kad  ever  belonged  to  a  Human  skeleton. 


a 


H 


1 


,i  r 


f  ;.  t. 


!n 


ui:iii 

I  '->■  '  ! 

i 

I  i 


106 

A  truce  to  speculation — Let  ub  return 
to  acknowledged  realities. 

By  going  round  the  mouth  of  the 
river,  and  ranging  the  flat  rock,  which 
forms  its  level  bottom,  I  got  within  the 
influence  of  the  spray;  and,  turning 
from  the  sun,  was  gratified  with  the 
aerial  splendours  of  a  circular  rainbow; 
which  formed  around  me  a  perfect 
ring,  or  halo,  of  the  prismatic  colours, 

I  now  followed  the  course  of  the 
beach,  down  the  shore  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence, as  far  as  the  little  Church  of 
AngeGardien,(not  less  than  three  miles) 
and  was  by  that  time  weary  enough  to 
have  acreptpfl  a  humble  lodging,  in  one 
of  the  neighbouring  cots :  But  I  did  not 
feel  inclined  to  solicit  admittance,  while 
I  could  possibly  command  accommo- 
dation, at  an  Inn,  The  < 

I  therefore  stopped  at  a  house  to  in-       Th< 
quire  the  road,  where  an  old  Woman.       lea^ 


l! 


W; 


107 


ug  return 


th  of  the 
ck,  vvhicU 
vithin  the 
,  turning 
with  the 
•  rainbow ; 
a  perfect 
c  colours, 

se  of  the 
^  St.  Law- 
hurch  of 
ree  miles) 
enough  to 
ng,  m  one 

I  did  not 
ice,  while 

ccommo- 


and  her  Daughter,  were  weaving,  in  a 
large  room,  which  apparently  answered 
all  their  purposes,  as  there  were  several 
beds  in  it. — Whilst  I  was  taking  her  di- 
rections, the  Priest  of  the  Parish  came 
in,  with  that  peculiar  air  of  unconcern, 
approaching  to  apathy,  which  is  so  ob- 
servable among  the  Clergy  in  Canada. 
Upon  the  Priest's  sitting  down,  the  good 
Woman  laid  aside  her  shuttle,  and 
brought  in  a  mug  of  beer;  which  she 
set  between  iis^  with  rustic  civility — not 
offering  it  to  either. — His  reverence  was 
not  inquisitive,  and  I  was  not  loquacious, 
under  the  fatigue  of  my  journey  ;  so  I 
soon  rose,  and  took  my  leave.  I  have 
since  regretted  that  I  had  not  taken  the 
opportunity  of  some  professional  infor- 
mation: but  one  has  always  something 
to  regret ;  and 

The  eye  is  not  satisfied  with  seeing,    aor  the  ear  witli 
hearing. 


use  to  in-       There  was  no  tavern,  he  said,  for  two 
Woman.    ^   leagues  j   but  there  were  good  Houses 


; 


I 


1 

41 


M 


hi 


)  ( 


ii 


!  , 


i.    ! 


108 

upon  the  road ;  and  they  were  accus- 
tomed to  exercise  hospitality.  That  is 
to  say,  in  this  Country,  they  would  re- 
ceive Travellers,  and  take  pay  for  their 
entertainment. — Hospitality  implies,  in 
Canada,  nothing  like  the  disinterested 
kindness  of  the  Quakers  in  Pennsyl- 
vania, which  has  been  lately  sketched, 
with  such  glaring  colours,  in  Gaits'  Life 
of  West ;  nor  yet  does  it  indicate  the 
liberal  welcome  of  the  Gentleman 
Farmer,  of  Maryland,  or  Virginia,  to 
whom  the  company  of  an  intelligent 
Stranger  is  such  an  acceptable  treat,  in 
those  isolated  situations,  that  he  is  re- 
commended from  house  to  house,  by 
way  of  conferring  a  favour ;  and  he  may 
live  among  the  neighbouring  Gentry,  at 
free  cost,  as  long  as  he  chooses. 

1  continued  my  progress,  by  cottages 
and  hamlets,  mills,  and  water-falls,  till 
I  came  at  last  within  ken  of  the  expect- 
ed place  of  repose :  but  its  wretched 
appearance  so  disheartened  me,  after 


100 


jre  accus- 
That  is 
would  re- 
Y  for  their 
mplies,  in 
interested 

Pennsyl- 
sketched, 
}alts'  Life 
dicate  the 
lentleman 
irginia,  to 
ntelligent 
e  treat,  in 

he  is  re- 
louse,  by 

d  he  may 

entry,  at 


cottages 

falls,  till 

expect- 

retched 

le,  after 


walking  fifteen  miles,  in  expectation  of 
a  place  of  shelter,  that  I  had,  at  last,  a 
great  mind  to  have  begged  a  night's 
lodging  in  the  neighbourhood.  I  actu- 
ally knocked  at  one  door  for  that  pur- 
pose; but  the  People  within  answered 
as  if  they  had  retired  to  rest,  (it  was 
now  between  nine  and  ten  o'clock) 
and  I  reconciled  myself  as  well  as  I 
could  to  the  brawling  of  Watermen, 
who  were  to  put  off  as  soon  as  the  tide 
served,  which  would  be  some  time  be- 
fore midnight,  for  Quebec.  The  Land- 
lady (one  of  the  coarsest  women  I  have 
ever  seen)  had  some  tolerable  wine,  as 
it  happened,  so  I  ordered  a  pint  of  it, 
and  declined  having  any  thing  else  for 
[supper.  I  threw  myself,  in  my  clothes, 
upon  the  wretched  bed  that  was  made 
for  me;  and  next  morning  I  turned  out, 
as  early  as  possible,  after  swallowing  a 
couple  of  raw  eggs,  the  only  eatable  I 
could  stomach,  in  this  squalid  abode. 
'  K 


i'^^  I 


!     f 


[■  i  t 

i 


i 


t    ! 


no 

The  Peasants  of  Canada  have  got  the 
disagreeable  habit,  so  common  in  Europe, 
of  never  telling  their  price.  Ce  que  vous 
voulez  lyionsieur  (What  you  please  sir)  is 
the  universal  answer,  even  at  profess- 
ed Inns,  in  unfrequented  places.  But  I 
must  say  they  never  asked  me  for  more 
than  I  gave  them,  vt^hatever  it  was ;  and 
they  always  appeared  to  be  perfectly  sat- 
isfied. 


!:     K  ■ 


IM 


111    !l 


Yet  there  are  no  beggars  in  Canada, 
any  more  than  in  the  United  States.  The 
Stranger  is  no  where  importuned  for 
money,  or  disgusted  by  the  shameless 
display  of  natural,  or  acquired  deformity, 
with  which  European  Roads  and  Cities 
universally  abound.  Whilst  I  was  at 
Montreal,  a  street  Beggar  arrived  from 
Europe :  upon  taking  his  stand  in  the 
Public  square,  he  was  soon  noticed  by  the 
Police,  and  clapped  up  in  a  place  of  confine- 
ment, till  he  should  learn  to  respect  the 
customs  of  the  Country,  and  betake  himself 


Ill 


ve  got  the 
in  Europe, 
8  que  vous 
lease  sir)  is 
at  profess- 
;es.  But  I 
e  for  more 
;  was ;  and 
jrfectly  sat- 


in Canada, 

ates.     The 

tuned   for 

shameless 

deformity, 

and  Cities 

I   was    at 

rived  from 

nd   in   the 

iced  by  the 

of  confine- 

espect  the 

kc  himself 


)r 


i 


to  some  honest  means  of  obtaining  a  live-- 
lihood. 

I  was  much  annoyed,  however,  by  the 
little  whiffet  dogs  that  run  out  upon  Pas- 
sengers from  every  hovel,  barking  till  they 
are  out  of  sight.  I  often  admired  the 
patience  of  the  Postillions — but  they  are 
probably  fond  of  it.  Noise  seems  to  be 
here  the  general  passion.  Church  bells 
are  perpetually  ringing  out,  drums  beat 
twice  a  day,  in  the  principal  towns,  ma- 
king the  streets  resound  with  the  tattoo, 
or  the  reveille ;  and  in  the  country  whole 
dozens  of  little  bells  are  constantly  jingling 
upon  the  harness  of  every  caleche. 

Before  I  turned  about,  I  examined  the 
ruins  of  the  Franciscan  Convent  which 
had  been  burnt  by  General  Wolfe  to  dis- 
lodge its  Inhabitants,  whose  influence  pre- 
vented supplies  from  being  brought  him 
by  the  neighbouring  Peasantry,  and  the 
Chateau,  as  it  was   called,  (I  conjecture 


t 


!i 


(    , 
I 


. 


I 


! 


■I 


112 

iTom  its  having  been  originally  a  Seign- 
Glial  Mansion  House  or  Gentleman's  seat) 
was  never  allowed  to  be  repaired. 

The  neighbouring  Church  called  Cha- 
teau Richer,  from  this  castellated  mansion 
(whose  walls  are  yet  perfectly  sound, 
though  they  have  been  so  long  disman* 
tied)  was  built  in  1638;  and  it  is  now 
undergoing  a  thorough  repair. 


I 


•r . 

il! 


The  whole  Island  of  Orleans  may  be 
seen  from  hence ;  but  its  apearance  is  un- 
interesting, on  so  near  a  view ;  from  the 
monotonous  style  of  the  settlements,  house 
after  house,  at  equal  distances,  and  so 
much  alike,  that  you  cannot  distinguish 
one  from  another. 


The  French  Settlements  do  not  extend 
above  fifty  miles  below  the  Island,  though 
they  are  sprinkled  along,  as  far  as  the 
Harbour  of  Tadoussac,  on  one  side,  and 
the  town  of  Kamouraska  on  the  other ; 


<  t 


113 


J  a  Seign- 
lan's  seat) 
id. 

illed  Cha- 
d  mansion 
ly  sound, 
g  disman* 

it  is   now 


)  may  be 
nee  is  un- 
frora  the 
nts,  house 
P,  and  so 
istinguish 


)t  extend 
, though 
•  as  the 
ide,  and 
}  other; 


from  whence  downward,  in  a  space  of 
Iiundreds  of  miles,  nothing  is  to  be  seen, 
on  either  hand,  but  mountains  covered 
with  brush  wood,  and  rocks,  grey  with 
the  moss  of  ages,  over,  or  beside,  which, 
innumorable  streams,  and  rivers,  seem  to 
gush,  or  roll,  in  vain. 

In  this  gigantic  River,  the  water  is 
brackish,  no  farther  than  the  lower  end 
of  the  Island  of  Orleans ;  and  the  tide 
flows  no  farther  than  the  lake  of  St. 
Pierre;  yet  the  white  Porpoises  are 
frequently  seen  to  pitch  in  the  basin  of 
Quebec;  and  Whales  occasionally  as- 
cend, as  far  as  the  river  Saguenay.* 

*  The  impetuous  torrent  of  the  Saguenay,  is  a  curbsity  of 
the  watery  element,  little,  if  at  all,  inferior  to  the  thunder« 
iiig  Falls  of  Niagara.  The  banks  are  naked  rocks,  which 
rise  from  one  hundred  and  seventy  to  three  hundred  and 
forty  yarda^  above  the  stream  ;  whose  current  is  at  once 
broad,  deep,  and  violent.  In  some  places,  falls  of  fifty  or 
sixty  feet  cause  it  to  rush  onward  with  inconceivable  rapid- 
ity. It  iis  generally  from  two  to  three  miles  wide,  to  a  dis 
tance  of  one  or  two  hundred  miles  trom  its  mouth,  where 
it  is  suddenly  contracted  by  projecting  rocks  to  the  width  of 

k2 


i!!;t 


^1h 


h 


>  Ml 


114 

On  my  return  toward  Quebec,  I  pro- 
ceeded more  leisurely  than  I  had  done,  in 
coming  down ;  and  now  found  time  to  ad- 
mire the  beautiful  plants,  or  rather  vines, 
which  were  occasionally  to  be  seen,  hang- 
ing from  the  lintel  of  an  open  window.— 
The  windows  in  Canada,  opening  on 
hinges,  from  side  to  side,  instead  of  being 
hung  with  weights,  to  rise,  and  fall,  as 
with  us.    These  vines,  it  seems,  are  called 


'it 


•  .    ■  I 


1> 


!1 


one  mile  only.  At  the  place  of  its  discharge,  attempts  have 
been  made  to  sound  its  depth,  with  five  hundred  fathom  of 
line,  but  without  effect.  At  two  miles  up,  the  bottom  is 
Indicated  at  one  hundred  and  thirty  or  forty  fathoms,  and 
seventy  miles  from  the  St.  Lawrence  it  is  still  from  fifty  to 
sixty  fathoms  deep. 

Its  course  is  very  sinuous,  owing  to  innumerable  project- 
ing points,  contracting  its  width,  from  either  shore.  Yet 
the  tide  runs  up  it  for  seventy  miles :  and  the  ebb,  on  ac- 
count of  these  obstructions,  is  much  later  than  it  is  in  the 
great  River;  in  consequence  of  which  at  low  water,  in  the 
St.  Lawrence,  the  force  of  the  Saguenay  is  perceivable  for 
several  miles,  after  its  current  has  been  absorbed  in  the 
broad  bosom  of  the  former ;  which  is  here  twenty  or  thirty 
miles  wide. 

Just  within  its  mouth,  is  (he  harbour  of  Tadoussac,  which 
is  well  sheltered,  by  surrounding  heights,  and  furnisher 
anchorage  for  any  number  of  vessels,  of  the  largest  size. 


I! ,      si 


i  <    ■    .. 


If   I      ' 


115 


;c,  I  pro- 
\  done,  in 
me  to  ad- 
ber  vines, 
;en,  hang- 
irindow.— 
ening  on 
i  of  being 
id  fall,  as 
are  called 


attempts  have 

red  fathom  of 

the  bottom  is 

fathoms,  and 

1  from  fifty  to 

(•able  project- 
shore.    Yet 
I  ebb,  on  ac- 
it  is  in  the 
[water,  in  the 
keivable  for 
rbed  in  the 
Ity  or  thirty 

Issac,  which 
Id  furnisher 


Jils  (faraigner,  or  spiders  tlireads,  from 
the  singular  delicacy  of  their  tendrils. — 
They  are  suspended  in  small  pots,  which 
the  earliest  leaves  soon  cover,  so  as  com- 
pletely to  conceal  the  vessel  which  con- 
tains them.  The  plant  then  pushes  forth 
its  pendent  strings  of  sprigs  and  flowers, 
green,  red,  and  blue,  the  clusters  of 
which  seem  to  be  growing  in  the  air. — 
Frequently  single  pots  of  pinks,  mari- 
golds, and  other  flowers,  occupied  the 
sills  of  the  windows,  in  the  meanest  cot- 
tages ;  and  gave  them,  more  than  any 
thing  within,  an  appearance  of  domestic 
enjoyment 

As  I  walked  along,  the  Men  had  gene- 
rally turned  out  to  mend  the  roads,  much 
rain  having  fallen  latterly,  and  the  surface 
being  full  of  holes  rooted  up  by  the  hogs. 
I  asked  one  grey  headed  Man,  how  old  he 
was.  He  told  me  he  was  eighty-one. — 
"Ah  Monsieur,"  added  he, " J'ai  vu  bien  de 


!l 


: 


• 


Hi! 
( 


I 


IIG 

"  la  mist'TC,  an  monde."*  I  quitted  him 
with  the  obvious  remark,  that  such  were 
generally  those  that  lived  the  longest. 

In  the  yard  of  a  large  grist  mill, 
through  which  the  road  passed,  I  sat 
down  to  rest  myself,  among  the  work 
people,  who  were  employed  at  their  dif- 
ferent occupations,  I  soon  perceived  that 
one  of  them  noticed  me,  particularly ;  and 
I  was  just  going  to  continue  my  journey, 
to  avoid  interrogation,  when  he  asked  me 
with  more  responsibility,  than  his  appear- 
ance indicated ;  if  I  would  not  walk  into  the 
house  to  rest  myself.  I  assured  him,  I 
was  very  well,  where  I  was.  Then  he 
would  have  me  to  come  in,  and  take  a 
cup  of  tea :  for  the  French  have  learned 
to  love  tea,  in  America,  though  they  have 
forgotten  the  receipt  for  soupe  matgre.  I 
civilly  declined  the  offer,  wishing  to  reach 

*  Ah  I  Sii-jl  have  seen  a  great  deal  of  misery,  in  my  time. 


117 


Ittccl  him 
ach  were 
iffest. 

rist    mill, 
ed,  I   sat 
the    work 
their  dif- 
;eived  that 
larly ;  and 
\f  journey, 
asked  me 
nis  appear- 
Ik  into  the 
ed   him,  I 
Then  he 
d  take  a 
e  learned 
they  have 
mgre.    I 
to  reach 

ly,  in  my  time. 


Beauport,  by  dinner  time,  wheii  I  knew 
I  might  lay  by,  for  the  day,  at  a  tolerable 
Inn. 

I  now  jogged  on,  without  any  farther 
adventures,  to  the  inhospitable  Inn  at 
Montmorency,  where,  however,  the  chil- 
dren now  brought  me  plates  of  wild 
strawberries,  for  which  I  paid  them,  to 
their  hearts'  content.  These  Canadian 
strawberries  are  so  very  small,  that  I  did 
not  always  think  it  necessary  to  pull  olTthe 
stems,  but  ate  them  sometimes,  by  hand- 
fuls,  stems,  and  all.  Here  they  had  been 
picked  clean,  and  were  served  up  to  me, 
like  a  delicacy,  which  they  really  are. 

Knowing  this  was  no  place  to  dine  at, 
I  went  on,  after  a  nap  in  my  chair,  and 
reached  Beauport,  as  the  Family  were 
sitting  down  to  table.  So  I  dined  with 
them,  as  I  could,  upon  salt  fish,  without 
eggs:    for  it   was   meagre   day.      The 

S 


U  ' 


.} 


♦  1 


1  * 


■If 

Mi  ' 


118 

lei 
bread,  however,  was  now  eatable,  for 

there  is  a  baker  in  the  village.  ,.  , 

'■i   lie 


Next  morning,  instead  of  returning 
to  Quebec,  I  eonduded  to  cross  the 
Country  to  Charlebourg;  dined  there, 
after  stopping  at  the  Church,  where  I 
was  glad  to  shelter  myself  from  a  driz- 
zling rain;  and  in  the  afternoon  pro- 
ceeded to 

THE  INDL4JV  VILLAGE  OF  LORETTO 


ze? 
all( 
thel 
altj 


the 


1  '  f 


but  was  obliged  to  stop,  by  the  way, 
under  a  friendly  roof,  while  a  smart 
shower  refreshed  the  air.  It  cleared 
up  before  night,  and  I  readily  found  the 
village,  by  the  direction  of  the  Steeple. 


■1 


The  Canadian  Loretto  takes  its  name 
from  a  representation  of  the  Holy  House,    ] 
on  its  way,  through  the  air.  from  Beth-  ^ 


f. 


119 


atable,  (of 


returnincf 
cross  the 
ined  there, 
h,  where  I 
'om  a  driz- 
rnoon  pro- 


LORETTO 

the  way, 
a   smart    * 
It  cleared  | 

found  the 
le  Steeple. 

is  its  name  ' 
loly  House.  ^ 
rom  Beth-  * 


lehem,  in  Palestine,  under  the  conduct 
of  Angelic  guardians;  which  the  Catho- 
lic founders  of  this  Indian  Church,  whose 
zeal  will,  attlie  present  day,  be  readily 
allowed  to  be  more  conspicuous,  than 
their  judgment,  have  placed  over  the 
altar. 

This,  may  I  be  permitted  to  observe, 
by  the  way,  is  little  better  than  initiating 
the  Hindoos,  in  the  Christian  faith,  by 
explaining,  or  rather  attempting  to  ex- 
plain, the  mystery  of  Election  and  Re- 
probation, by  an  arbitrary  election  of 
Some,  and  rejection  of  Others  :  Whereas, 
the  election  of  which  the  Scriptures  speak 
(although  in  some  parts,  they  are  hard 
to  be  understood — and  the  Unlearned 
wrest  them  to  their  own  destruction.) — The 
Election  of  Grace,  is  universal,  being  in 
Christ,  the  Seed  of  Jacob,  the  Second- 
Adam — the  quickening  Spirit;  and  the 
rejection  or  reprobation,  is  of^^aM,  a  figure 
of  the  first-born,  or  natural  Man — not  m 


J! 


::ij 


^: 


■ 


« 


ill' 


I  Si  'i 


(s; 


1 1:1 


•M" 


i; 


.« 


' 
ti 

[i 

[i  t 

1  r 

;t 
i:. 


J  20 

Some ;  but  ^//.  For  it  is  a  literal  truth, 
that  Flesh  and  Blood  cannot  inherit  the 
Kingdom  of  God.  We  must  be  born 
again.  We  must,  actually,  put  on  Christ ; 
or  we  shall  never  be  saved  bj  him  :  for 
he  came  to  save  his  people  yrom  their 
sins — not  in  them. — Knoiv  ye  not,  that 
Jesus  Christ  is  in  you^  except  ye  be  Repro^ 

bates  ? "  These  are  hard  sayings," 

said  the  Jews, — "  Who  can  bear  them  ?" 

Perhaps  these  Children  of  Nature 
had  better  have  been  left  to  "  the  Great 
Spirit,"  whom  their  Fathers  worshipped^ 
however  ignorantly  ;  and  their  intuitive 
belief  in,  "  the  Land  of  Souls,"  than  to 
have  been  thus  impressed  with  one  of 
the  idlest  impositions  of  ancient  super- 
stition. 

The  village  consists,  besides  the 
Church,  which  appears  now  to  be  much 
neglected,  of  forty  or  fifty  square  houses, 
standing  separate  from  each  other,  with 


spi 
strj 
taij 
ab< 
licl 
the  I 


121 


ral  truth, 
nherit  the 

be  bom 

on  Christ ; 

him :  for 

^rom  their 

not^  that 

be  ReprO' 

sayings," 

ir  them  ?" 

)f  Nature 

the  Great 

or  shipped, 

intuitive 

'  than  to 

th  one  of 

t  super- 


les    the 

Ibe  much 

houses, 

^er,  with 


spaces  between,  which  serve  both  for 
streets  and  yards,  to  the  listless  Inhabi'^ 
tants.  Some  young  Men  were  lounging 
about.  A  girl,  as  fleet  as  a  fawn,  fro- 
licked round  them,  occasionally,  and 
the  children  were  at  some  noisy  play. 

These  simple  People  are  of  the  Hu- 
ron Tribe,  and  they  have  long  been  ci- 
vilized, or  rather  naturalized,  among 
ithe  French  in  Canada.  They  have  lost 
ftheir  native  habits  of  contempt  for  la- 
fbour,  and  fondness  for  war ;  and  now 
llive,  much  in  the  Canadian  manner, 
fthough  they  preserve  the  Indian  dress, 
s  less  constraining  to  their  limbs. 

They  occupy  about  two  hundred 
icres,  I  was  told,  of  their  own ;  but 
lepend,  more  willingly,  upon  the  pre- 
carious chances  of  hunting  and  Ashing; 
laving  recourse,  when  those  fail  them, 
jo  hiring  themselves  out,  for  bread, 
limong  the  neighbouring  Farmers, 

h 


;; 


I  i 


'W 


J 


;| 


122 

Under  such  circumstances  they  are 
fast  forgetting  the  traditions  of  their  An- 
cestors, which  are  no  longer  preserved 
by  belts  of  wampum  ;  and  renewed,  by 
periodical  revival,  during  the  solemni- 
ties of  a  Council  fire. — Even  the  song, 
and  the  dance,  are  now  only  taken  up, 
at  distant  intervals,  to  the  monotonous 
sound  of  Yo  !  He  !  Waw!  in  perpetual 
repetition,  to  gratify  the  curiosity  of! 
European  Visitors,  with  the  ferocious 
attitudes,  and  frantic  gestures,  of  tri« 
umphant  massacre. 


The  next  day,  being  the  Sabbath,  I 
should  have  gone  to  Church,  with  the 
Indians ;  but  there  was  to  be  no  service; 
and  I  should  have  staid  to  dinner,  with 
my  host ;  but  there  was  no  meat  in  the 
house:  so  I  concluded  to  go  to  the 
French  Church,  half  a  mile  distant ; 
after  visiting  the  Falls  of  St.  Charles, 
called  by  the  Natives  Cabtr  Coubat,  to 
express  the    abrupt    turns  which  the 


n 
si 
nc 
it 

m 


Tlj 

in 

an( 

wit 

for 


moi 
5  per 

nuit 
I  coui 
I  tuat 
I  thus 

hiou 

^  that 


123 


3s  they  are 
)f  their  An- 
:  preserved 
enewed,  by 
he  solemni- 
1  the  song, 
y  taken  up 
monotonous 
in  perpetual 
curiosity  of 
le  ferocious 


1  i 


ures, 


of  tri' 


Sabbath,  I 
;h,  with  the 

no  service; 
linner,  with 
I  meat  in  the  | 

go  to   the 
i\\e  distant ; 

;t.  Charles, 
Coubai,  to  \ 
which  the  J 


river  here  makes,  as  it  descends,  with  a 
shrill  concussion,  through  narrow  tun- 
nels which  it  has  worn  in  the  rocks,  till 
it  loses  itself  to  the  eye,  amid  overhang- 
ing pines. 

On  the  road  to  Church,  the  peasant- 
ry were  collecting,  in  great  numbers, 
They  were  decently,  but  coarsely  clad, 
in  jackets  and  trousers  of  grey  coating ; 
and  the  youth  were  amusing  themselves 
with  harmless  sports,  till  the  bell  rung 
for  mass,  for  there  was  to  be  no  ser- 
mon ;  the  Priests  finding  it  easier  to 
perform  their  accustomed  rig-ma-role 
of  the  Mass ;  than  to  task  their  inge- 
nuity with  the  composition  of  a  dis- 
course, adapted  to  the  uninformed  si- 
tuation of  their  Parishioners;  who  are 
thus,  literally,  left  to  perish  for  lack  of 
knowledge. 

We  had  what  is  called  High  Mass, 
that  is  to  say,  the  ceremonies  of  the 


!i 


.  r( 


:J' 


1^ 


1  ■ 

I .  if 


'■  '  I 


124 

Mass  were  accompanied  with  singing  : 
They  are  sometimes  performed  in  ap- 
parent silence,  the  Priests  alone  utter- 
ing certain  parts  of  the  ritual,  in  a  low 
voice,  not  designed  to  be  heard  by  the 
Congregation.  And  there  was  much 
smoaking  of  incense,  and  sprinkling  of 
holt/  water,  a  practice  so  very  puerile, 
that  it  is  difficult  for  a  Protestant  to  be- 
hold it,  without  a  feeling  of  contempt 
for  the  operator. — 

But  the  rehearsal  of  a  language,  that 
has  ceased  to  be  spoken,  ever  since  the 
decay  of  the  Roman  Empire ;  and  which 
therefore  involves  a  period  of  at  least 
fifteen  hundred  years,  is  a  solemn  com- 
mentary upon  the  lapse  of  ages. 

I  consider  this  perpetuation  of  a  dead 
language  (however  absurd  it  may  ap- 
pear, in  practice)  as  an  unbroken  link,  in 
the  chain  of  history ;  that  attaches,  with 
irresistible  conviction,    the    JVew  Tes- 


Ih  1 


125 


h  singing  : 
ned  in  ap- 
lone  utter- 
l,  in  a  low 
ard  by  the 
was    much 
)rinkling  of 
Ty  puerile, 
3tant  to  be- 
f  contempt 


iguage,  that 
r  since  the 
and  which 
of  at  least 
ilemn  com- 
bes. 

In  of  a  dead 
|it  may  ap- 

cen  link,  in 
iches,with 
\jS*ew  Tes- 


tament Dispensation  to  that  o(the  Old ; 
and  I  reverence  it,  in  the  order  of  Pro- 
vidence, as  I  do  the  Jews  ;  that  peculiar 
People — prepared  of  the  Lord,  for  the  in' 
troduction,  into  the  World,  of  his  only  he- 
gotten  Son ;  by  whose  Genealogies,  and 
Prophetic  annunciations,  (however  un- 
wittingly, on  their  part)  we  are  assured 
of  the  birth  of  the  Messiah;  which 
was  to  be  (I  appeal  to  Moses,  and  the 
Prophets^  before  the  kingdom  should  de- 
part from  Judah — before  the  Daily  Sacri- 
fice  should  be  taken  away — and  whilst  it 
was  yet  possible,  to  trace  the  descent 
of  the  King  of  Israel,  from  the  House  of 
David,  and  the  Tribe  of  Judah, 

And  if  the  true  Believer  cannot  but 
contemn  the  mummery  of  superstition, 
engrafted  by  Priestcraft  upon  Primitive 
simplicity ;  it  may  yet  excite  his  wonder, 
that  the  decayed  Fabric  of  Christianity 
should  have  stood  the  shock  of  refor- 
mation ;  and  been  restored  in  the  Pro- 

L  2 


1 1 


1 1. 


n 


% 


¥        V 


r 


n 


i  ( 


126 

testant  Professions  to  new  life  and  vi- 
gour. 


The  rocks  which  compose  the  chain 
of  mountains,  which  forms  an  immense 
amphitheatre  behind  the  village  of  Lo- 
retto,  and  terminates  in  the  Promontory 
of  Cape  Tourment,  consist,  I  am  told, 
of  a  quartz  of  the  colour  of  amber, 
sometimes  white,  with  a  black  glimmer, 
and  a  few  grains  of  brown  spar.  Not  ^ 
far  from  the  point  of  the  Cape,  there  is  J 
said  to  be  a  considerable  Lake,  upon  '* 
the  summit  of  the  mountain. 

I  was  now  nine  miles  north  of  the  St. 
Lawrence,  upon  a  commanding  eleva- 
tion, from  which  there  is  an  unbounded 
view  of  the  great  river,  in  its  course  to- 
ward the  ocean;  of  the  heights  of  4 
Quebec,  and  its  glittering  roofs  and  i 
spires,  whose  reflection  is  too  powerful 
for  the  eye,  even  at  this  distance ;  of  the 


127 


ie  and  vi- 


the  chain 
1  immense 
ige  of  Lo- 
romontory 
[  am  told, 
of  amber, 
k  glimmer, 
ipar.  Not 
B,  there  is 
ake,  upon 


of  the  St. 
ing  eleva- 
Inbounded 

:ourse  to- 
I eights  of 
Iroofs  and 

powerful  [ 
;  of  the 


Island  of  Orleans;  of  the  Southern 
Coast ;  and,  far  beyond  all,  of  the  long 
chain  of  Mountains,  which  separates 
Canada  from  the  United  States. — 

Nothing  can  be  more  sublime  than 
this  uninterrupted  view  of  one  of  the 
greatest  Rivers  in  the  World,  it  being 
five  miles  wide,  where  it  is  unequally 
divided  by  the  Island  of  Orleans,  which 
is  upwards  of  three  hundred,  from  the 
sea. 

You  trace  the  channel  as  far  as 
Cape  Tourment,  a  bluff  nearly  perpen- 
dicular, which  rises  to  a  height  of  two 
thousand  feet,  and  is  distinctly  visible, 
in  its  majestic  outline,  at  the  distance 
of  forty  miles;  abruptly  terminating, 
to  the  eye,  the  dim  seen  mountains,  that 
bound  the  horizon,  at  an  unknown  dis- 
tance, for  at  least  as  many  leagues, 
allowing  to  the  ravished  eye,   at  one 


I    I 
I 


'   i 


It 


it' 


128 

protracted  glance,  a  softened  view  of 
the  tremendous  precipices, 

Wiiich  pour  a  sweep  of  rivers  from  their  sides ; 
And,  hi^h  between  contending  Nation?;  rear 
The  roclty,  long,  division. 

I  now  set  out,  in  good  spirits,  for 
Quebec,  refreshed  myself  at  Charle- 
bourg,  and  reached  town  as  the  bells 
were  tolling  for  seven  o'clock,  the  hour 
at  which  the  Churches  are  closed.  Here 
I  supped  deliciously  upon  fresh  Salmon, 
after  the  poor  fare  I  had  met  with,  in 
the  country,  and  I  listened,  again,  at 
nine  o'clock,  to  the  penetrating  trum- 
pets, by  which  the  hour  of  retirement 
is  sounded  every  night. 


>  i 


!■  :,' 


U'i 


i  1 


THE  FIRST  BISHOP  OF  QUEBEC 

was  a  Montmorency,  of  the  noble  House 
that  has  furnished  so  many  Dukes  and 
Marshalls  of  France,  in  the  most  bril- 


1M^ 

ii  !   1 


129 


1  view  of 


tir  sides ; 
rear 


pirits,  for 
t  Charle- 
the  bells 

the  hour 
led.  Here 
ii  Salmon, 
t  with,  in 
again,  at 
ng  trum- 

tirement 


lEBEC 

e  House 
kes  and 
lost  bril- 


liant periods  of  the  French  M  anarchy. 
I  must  have  somewhere  seen  his  epi- 
taph; though  I  cannot  now  recollect 
where:  but  the  celebrated  FalU  we 
have  just  visited,  were  probably  called 
after  him;  and,  if  so,  he  may  be  said  to 
have  a  more  splendid  monument,  than 
any  of  his  illustrious  Ancestors.  How 
much  more  durable !  Since  those  were 
probably  overturned  in  the  fury  of  the 
Revolution,  whilst  the  resplendent  Cata- 
ract, faithful  to  its  trusty  will  perpetuate 
the  name  of  the  good  Bishop,  to  the 
end  of  the  world. 

Quebec  is  subjected  to  frequent 
rains  by  the  neighbouring  mountains, 
which  arrest  the  clouds  in  its  vicinity ; 
and  it  has  little  to  boast  of,  in  summer, 
though  the  days  are  very  long,  from  its 
high  northern  latitude,  (46. 55.)  The  sun 
now  rises  about  4  o'clock,  and  sets 
about  8. — The  winter  is  allowed  to  be 
the  season  of  enjoyment  here. — 


Ii 


M 


■    I 


'i- 


.' 


Jf 


u 


130 

A  sufficient  stock  of  meat  and  poultry 
is  killed,  when  the  cold  sets  in,  which  it 
usually  does  in  November,  continuing 
without  intermission  till  April ;  and 
sometimes  encroaching  upon  May.  The 
snow  then  usually  lies  upon  the  ground 
from  four  to  six  feet  deep.  The  meat, 
as  well  as  every  thing  else,  that  is  ex- 
posed to  the  cold,  instantly  freezes; 
and  it  is  thus  kept,  without  further  trou- 
ble, till  it  is  wanted. 


As  the  snows  fall,  the  Inhabitants  turn 
out  to  keep  the  road  open,  that  their 
intercourse  with  their  neighbours  may 
not  be  impeded.  The  air  is  constantly 
serene  and  healthful;  the  nights  are 
illuminated  with  the  Aurora  borealis; 
and  the  time  is  spent  in  giving  and  re- 
turning visits,  between  town  and  coun- 
try. Dancing  parties  are  frequently 
formed,  by  the  young  people,  at  one 
another's  houses;  and  the  gay  scene 
is  at  its  height,  when   the  great  river 


1 


th( 


;  5 


131 


I  poultry 
which  it 
iiitinuing 
ril ;  and 
ay.  The 
3  ground 
be  meat, 
at  is  ex- 
freezes  ; 
ther  trou- 


ants  turn 
lat  their 
mrs  may 
>nstantly 
ghts  are 
)orealis ; 
and  re- 
coun- 
equently 
at  one 
y  scene 
at  river 


iVeezes  over,  as  it  sometimes  docs,  from 
side  to  side.  The  Island  of  Orleans  is 
then  accessible,  and  every  body  turning 
out  upon  the  "  pont,"as  they  call  it,  on 
skates,  or  else  in  sleds  and  carrioles, 

The  then  gay  land  is  maddened  all  to  joy. 

Spring  at  length  opens,  suddenly;  the 
ice  breaks  up,  with  tremendous  crashes; 
and  vegetation  follows,  with  surprising 
rapidity,  as  soon  as  the  surface  of  the 
ground  is  clear  of  snow. 

Such  they  say,  is  occasionally,  the 
extremity  of  the  cold,  that  wine  freezes 
even  in  apartments  heated  by  stoves, 
the  pipes  of  which  are  conveyed 
through  every  room.  Brandy  exposed 
to  the  air  will  thicken  to  the  consist- 
ence of  oil ;  and  the  quick  silver  of 
thermometers  condenses  to  the  bulb, 
and  may  possibly  congeal,  for  even 
Mercury  freezes  at  39  degrees  below 
the  beginning  of  Fahrenheit. 


s  ■      ; 
( 


M 


\\\ 


.  1 1 . 

1  M. 


I 


: 


132 

Heavy  snows  come  in  October.  During 
November  they  sometimes  continue  fall- 
ing, for  weeks  together;  and  when  the 
cold  at  length  purifies  the  atmosphere,  the 
moon-light  nights  are  almost  as  brilliant 
as  the  day :  for  the  sun  cannot  rise  very 
high,  between  eight  in  the  morning,  and 
four  in  the  afternoon ;  and  the  full  moon, 
reflected  by  the  snow  and  ice,  is  bright 
enough  to  admit  of  reading  the  smallest 
print. 

The  roads  which  w^ould  have  been  ut- 
terly impassable  had  they  not  been  kept 
beaten,  as  the  snows  fell,  and  marked 
across  the  undistinguishing  waste  by  pine 
bushes,  stuck  in  from  space  to  space,  now 
harden  to  the  consistence  of  ice,  under 
the  runners  of  the  Carrioles ;  which  seem 
to  flit,  in  air,  as  they  whirl  along  the  im- 
patient Passenger  (muffled  up  in  furs,  till 
nothing  appears  but  the  tip  of  his  nose) 
at  the  rate  of  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  an 
hour. 


During 
nue  fall- 
^hen  the 
here,  the 

brilliant 
ise  very 
ing,  and 
ill  moon, 
s  bright 
smallest 


been  ut- 

^en  kept 

marked 

by  pine 

ice,  now 

(,  under 

•h  seem 

the  im- 

urs,  till 

nose) 

es  an 


I 


133 

One  of  the  amusements  of  winter  is  to 
go  a  fishing  upon  the  ice.  For  this 
purpose  large  openings  are  made,  in  cer- 
tain places,  which  the  fish  are  known  to 
frequent.  The  broken  ice  is  piled  up, 
arch  wise,  to  shelter  the  fishermen  from 
the  wind ;  and  the  fish,  coming  hither  for 
air,  are  easily  caught,  especially  at  night ; 
when  the  Men  use  lights,  and  sometimes 
kindle  fires ;  which  attract  the  fish  to  the 
circle,  and  produce  a  singular  effect,  at  a 
distance,  through  the  hollow  masses  of 
transparent  ice,  the  angles  of  wliich  glit- 
ter, on  your  approaching  them,  as  if  they 
were  hung  with  diamonds. 

Notwithstanding  this  extraordinary  fri- 
gidity, Canada  lies  in  the  same  latitude 
with  the  smiling  Provinces  of  old  France. 
The  greater  degree  of  cold  upon  the  New 
Continent,  must  be  attributed  to  the  land 
stretching  away  to  the  vicinity  of  the  Pole, 
with  little  intervening  sea ;  and  expanding 

M 


ii; 


i 


a; 


t  ■- 

!!!^ 


\\h 


11 


i 


» I 


134 

at  the  same  time  very  far  to  the  west. — 
The  whole  range  of  winter  winds,  there- 
fore, from  N.  E.  to  N.  W.  passing  over  but 
little  sea  to  divest  them  of  their  rigour, 
gather  fresh  cold,  in  traversing  immense 
tracts  of  snow  and  ice. 

The  Episcopal  Cathedral,  a  handsome 
building,  erected  at  a  great  expense  (1  be- 
lieve of  Royal  munificence)  upon  the  spot 
once  occupied  by  the  Convent  and  Clois- 
ters of  the  Recollets,  or  Franciscan  Friars, 
is  now  undergoing  a  reparation  which 
marks  ostensibly  the  peculiarities  of  the 
Climate. 

This  Structure  is  of  Grecian  Architect- 
ure (lonick,  if  I  remember  right)  finished 
with  the  broad  entablature,  and  low  pedi- 
ment, prescribed  by  the  rules  of  that 
order:  but  its  flat  roof  has  been  found 
incapable  of  supporting  the  weight  of 
snow,  which  annually  rests  upon  it ;  and 


IWl 


t 
b 
it! 
r( 


135 


8  west. — 
ds,  there- 
;  over  but 
ir  rigour, 
immense 


liandsome 
snse  (1  be- 
[1  the  spot 
ind  Clois- 
an  Friars, 
on  which 
es  of  the 


^rchitect- 
)  finished 
ow  pedi- 

of  that 
n  found 
eight  of 

it;  and 


to  render  the  building  tight  and  c»  nforta- 
ble,  it  has  been  found  necessary  to  spoil 
its  elegant  proportions,  by  raising  the 
roof,  at  least  ten  feet  higher. 

The  Steeple  of  this  Church,  though 
on  a  smaller  scale,  is  evidently  modelled 
from  that  of  Christ  Church,  Philadelphia, 
which  is  the  handsomest  structure  of  the 
spire  kind,  that  ever  I  saw,  in  any  part  of 
the  World ;  uniting  in  the  peculiar  fea- 
tures of  that  species  of  architecture,  the 
most  elegant  variety  of  forms,  with  the 
most  chaste  simplicity  of  combination.  It 
is  allowed  by  all  Foreigners  to  do  great 
credit  to  the  taste  and  talents  of  the 
Architect,  [Robert  Smith.^ 

Quebec  is  much  nearer  io  Boston^  than 
it  is  to  Halifax^  or  St.  Johns,  By  the 
route  of  the  Chaudiere,  and  the  Kenne- 
beck,  it  is  no  more  ihan  three  hundred 
and  seventy  miles  io  the  capital  of  JVeio 


[n 


;("' 


f    I  ;  ?  i 


t 


I! 


Ill 


j!' 


%. 


i  J?  .  i 

is 


136 

England;  but  it  is  not  less  than  six  hun- 
dred and  twenty-seven  to  that  of  JVova 
Scotia^  by  the  road  which  was  traced  by 
General  Haldimand  in  the  year  1783,  to 
St.  Johns  in  New  Brunswick,  thence  cross- 
ing the  Bay  of  Fundy  to  Hahfax ;  but  it 
is  even  now  barely  practicable ;  stretch- 
ing for  the  most  part,  across  uninhabited 
desarts. 

By  Craig's  road,  which  was  cut  by  the 
command  of  Sir  James,  when  Governor 
General,  in  1809,  toward  the  American 
frontier ;  but  which  remains  still  unfinish- 
ed, it  would  be  only  two  hundred  miles  to 
Hallotvell,  a  town  on  the  Kennebeck,  from 
whence  that  river  is  navigable  to  the  sea. 
It  is  but  seventy  miles  from  the  out  settle- 
ments on  the  Kennebeck,  to  the  French 
posts  on  the  riviere  du  Loup,  a  branch  of 
the  Chaudiere — the  country  between, 
mountainous  and  ruffjjed,  but  intersected 
by  rivers  and  streams. 


I 


H 


six  liun- 
of  JS'ova 
raced  by 

1783,  to 
ice  cross- 
IX ;  but  it 
;  stretch- 
linhabited 


lut  by  the 

Governor 

American 

I  imfinish- 

d  miles  to 

eck,  from 

o  the  sea. 

ut  settle- 

e  French 

jranch  of 

between, 

ersected 


? 


137 

I  now  prepared  for  my  return,  by 
land,  resolving  to  take  the  caleche,  the 
Canadian  post  chaise,  that  I  might  have 
the  better  opportunity  of  seeing  the 
Country,  and  observing  the  manners  of 
the  People  ;  though  I  had  been  almost 
discouraged  from  the  attempt,  by  ap- 
prehensions of  imposition  from  the  post 
masters  and  postillions,  whom  I  sup- 
posed to  be  no  better  than  their  Bre- 
thren in  Europe  ;  and  the  certainty,  that 
this  mode  of  conveyance  would  cost 
me  at  least  twice  as  much,  as  a  passage 
in  the  Steam  Boat ;  the  fare  on  board  of 
which,  up  the  river,  is  but  twelve  dol- 
lars, including  every  thing,  (ten  dollars 
down.)  Passengers  are  also  provided 
for  in  the  steerage,  on  board  of  these 
boats,  at  one-    larter  of  the  price. 

I  left  Quebec  with  a  confirmed  opi- 
nion, that,  although  its  citadel,  reputed 
the  strongest  fortification  in  America, 

M  2 


til 


I  ■ 


ill' 


I'  . 


!  ij 


I) 


!    -» 


ill! 


fij 


138 

with  its  hundreds  of  heavy  cannon,  and 
its  thousands  of  well-disciplined  troops, 
might  possibly,  in  future  wars,  between 
the  two  countries  (which  Heaven  avert) 
fall  a  prey  to  American  enterprise,  and 
intrepidity ;  yet  the  conquest  would  cost 
infinitely  more  than  it  could  be  worth  ; 
and  must  be  with  difficulty  maintained, 
against  the  re-action  of  the  greatest 
Naval  Power  on  earth,  to  whose  ap- 
proaches by  sea  it  must  ever  remain  ac« 
cessible. 
,1' 

I  say  not  the  same  of  Upper  Canada, 
whose  Population  is,  or  will  be,  essen- 
tially American ;  and  whose  attachment 
to  the  Government  of  Great  Britain 
must  inevitably  yield  to  the  habits,  and 
opinions,  of  their  Continental  neigh- 
bours. In  short,  I  may  venture  to  pre- 
dict, with  little  apprehension  of  con- 
troversy, that  by  the  next  competition 
between  England  and  America,  if  it  be 
not  very  hastily  brou  ght  on,  Upper  Ca- 


t\ 

dl 


!;f 


rf 


139 


on,  and 
troops, 
etween 
\  avert) 
se,  and 
uld  cost 
worth ; 
itained, 
greatest 
ose  ap- 
nain  ac- 


nada  will  be  nearly  Americanised. 
Montreal  itself  will  have  become  to  all 
efficient  purposes  an  American  town ; 
the  French  population  there,  will  gra- 
dually assimilate,  or  disappear;  unless, 
indeed,  French  Canada  should  be  con- 
solidated by  National  Independence ; 
and  the  eventual  boundary  of  Lower 
Canada  will  probably  be  the  Sorel,  on 
one  side,  and  the  St.  Maurice,  on  the 
other;*  leaving  to  his  Majesty  of  Great 


"I 


!anada, 
essen- 

Ichment 
Britain 

|its,  and 
neigh- 

|to  pre- 
>f  con- 
letition 
If  it  be 
>er  Ca- 


*  This  is  a  line  of  demarcation,  not  merely  superficial » 
but  which  has  been  traced  out,  for  hundreds  of  miles,  by 
navigable  waters ;  whose  course,  from  North  to  South,  is 
marked  by  e  perceptible  variation  of  soil  and  climate.— 
Tliere  is  a  difference  of  six  weeks,  in  the  opening  of  Spring, 
between  Montreal  (where  the  seasons  do  not  differ  materi- 
ally, from  the  meridian  of  Kingston)  and  the  petrifying 
Winter  of  Quebec.  There  is  at  least  half  that  difference 
between  the  Island  of  Montreal,  and  the  Eastern  side  of  the 
Rivers  above  mentioned  ;  and  I  shall  venture  to  say  it,  (how- 
over  imaginary  the  fact  may  seem)  .that  an  observant  Tra- 
veller, in  ascending  the  St.  Lawrence,  can  hardly  fail  to 
mark  the  variation,  in  tlie  looks  and  manners  of  the  Peo- 
ple ;  as  soon  as  he  crosses  this  line,  by  the  wide  ferry, 
which  appears  to  traverse  the  mouths  of  three  rivers ;  an 
illusion  occasioned  by  two  Islands  that  here  divide  the  St 
Maurice,  into  three  different  Channels. 


I;') 


ii 


\Vl\\: 


h 


;l 


140 

Britain  and  his  Successors,  the  sterile 
and  inhospitable  shores,  that  stretch — 

To  farthest  Lapland  aod  the  frozen  Main. 

Canada  is  as  costly  a  feather  in  the 
Royal  cap,  as  any  other  of  the  Impe- 
rial trappings ;  and  why  should  Repub- 
licans volunteer  their  services  to  pre- 
vent its  being  paid  for  beyond  its  value  ? 


11- 


I     i 


I) 


Yet,  if  the  useless  expenditure  of 
Men  or  Money — if  the  unnecessary 
waste  of  Thousands  of  the  former,  and 
millions  of  the  latter,  should  ever  be  al- 
lowed to  enter  into  the  calculations  of 
Courts,  and  Cabinets. — If,  in  short,  it 
had  been  ever  known,  that  Nations,  or 
rather  Ministers,  should  voluntarily  re- 
linquish Power,  when  once  obtained, 
by  whatever  means,  or  for  whatever 
purpose  ;  I  should  not  think  it  altogether 
hopeless  to  recommend  it,  as  the  policy 
of  Britain,    in  case  of  another  War, 


lyi 


If, 


141 


le  sterile 
Btretch — 

4ain. 

ler  in  the 
the  Impe- 
Id  Repub- 
s  to  pre- 
its  value  ? 

nditure    of 
mecessary 
jrmer,  and 
ever  be  al- 
ulations  of 
short,  it 
lations,  or 
intarily  re- 
obtained, 
whatever 
It  altogether 
[the  policy 
ther  War, 


with  America,  to  relinquish  Upper  Ca- 
nada ;  and  leave  the  French  to  their  own 
government^  as  an  Independent  Nation : 
withdrawing  all  future  protection  and 
support  from  their  North  American 
Provinces;  excepting  those  of  New- 
Brunswick,  and  Nova-Scotia,  with  their 
dependencies ;  which,  being  on  the  sea 
board,  may  be  easily  defended,  if  ever 
ihey  should  be  attacked ;  and  which  would 
continue  to  afford  to  Great  Britain  all 
the  benefits  she  ever  drew,  or  could  ex- 
pect to  draw,  from  the  possession  of 
Canada: — An  acquisition  which  be- 
came worse  than  useless  to  England, 
from  the  moment  of  the  Declaration  of 
Independence,  by  her  adjacent  Pro- 
vinces, now  the  United  States. 

Her  gigantic  Navy  would  preserve  its 
nursery — the  Fisheries  of  New-Found- 
land  ;  the  Territories  of  New-Bruns- 
wick and  Nova-Scotia  could  be  main- 
tained, without  the  enfeebling  straiu  of 


m 


Hi 


aW 


if- 


N\ 


■.ji; : 


M2 

perpetual  exertion ;  and  Canada  would 
be  no  lonr^er,  what  it  must  ever  be, 
while  it  remains  a  British  Province — a 
bone  to  pick^  between  England  and  Ame- 
rica— or  a  shell  for  the  lot  of  either  Par* 
iy^  while  the  oyster  is  thrown  away  be- 
tween them. 

Let  not  these  ideas  be  rejected,  with 
contempt,  as  altogether  visionary,  (how- 
ever unpalatable  they  may  be  in  Eng- 
land.)— Trans-atlantic  dominion  can 
never  be  perpetual  in  the  heart  of  the 
American  Continent — however  long,  or 
however  cheaply,  it  may  be  maintained, 
upon  the  peninsula  of  Nova-Scotia ;  in 
the  secluded  recesses  of  New-Holland  ; 
(though  they  embrace  another  Continent) 
— in  the  Wc5/-Indies  ;  or  in  the  East, — 

As  soon  as  the  native  Population  of 
Upper  Canada  (and  soon  it  wiU^  in  a 
clime,  and  upon  a  soil,  whereon  the 
principle  of  life  is  evidently  susceptible 


of 

(th 
cia 
ral 
del 

the 
the 
tica 
war 


J 


\ 


pen( 


H 

(to  s 

%, 

pies 

J^ati( 

oblig 

to  tal 

ral  P 

denc( 

Coun 


da  would 
ever  be, 
)vince — a 
and  Ame- 
ither  Par* 
away  be- 


cted,  with 
ary,  (how- 
be  in  Eng- 
nion     can 
3art  of  the 
r  long,  or 
aintained, 
Scotia;  in 
-Holland ; 
Continent) 
e  East. — 

^ulation  of 
wiU^  in  a 
jreon  the 
isceptible 


143 

of  its  utmost  vigour)  becomes  sufficient- 
ly numerous  to  make  self-government, 
(the  natural   right  of  all  distinct  asso- 
ciations of  Men)  convenient,  and   desi- 
rable; all  the  power  of  Britain  cannot 
.  delay    the     event ;   whenever    another 
I  Franklin  shall  arise,  at  Toronto,  or  on 
the  borders  of  the  Lakes ;  to  enlighten 
the  minds  of  his  Countrymen,  with  Poli- 
'  tical  truth ;  and  direct  their  efforts  to- 
wards the  acquisition  of  National  Inde- 
pendence.  

How   much  ivist''  then  would  it  be 
(to  say  nothing  of  humanity,  Chrrstian- 
ity,   and  so  forth — since  those  princi- 
ples are  not  allowed  to  obtain,  among 
JVations,  who,  individually,  profess  their 
obligation)  to  permit  the  course  of  nature 
i  to  take  place,  without  a  struggle  ? — Nat'i- 
■  ral  Parents  take  delight  in  the  Indepen- 
*  dence  of  their  Offspring.     Will  Mother- 
Countries,  as   they  proudly  call  them- 


I 


iir't 


..d 


'I 


141 

aelfes,  always  insist  upon  the  perpetual 
subjugation  of  their  Colonial  Progeny  ? 

This,  if  I  may  be  allowed  to  dilate 
the  figure,  is  acting  the  part  of  a  Step* 
Mother — who  has  but  an  equivocal 
claim  to  Filial  obedience. 

Upper  Canada^  or  British  America,  is 
proudly  stretched  by  English  Geogra- 
phers, from  the  shores  of  the  Atlantic, 
to  the  Southern  Ocean  ,v  and  the  bound- 
less  pretension  serves  to  colour,  witji 
red,  upon  the  map  of  the  world,  a  great 
part  of  the  Northern  Hemisphere,  un- 
til it  whitens  at  the  Pole.  Biift  Upper 
Canada,  Proper,  or  that  part  of  it  which 
is  at  all  likely  to  be  inhabited  during 
the  present  Generation,  is  a  fertile  Ter- 
ritory, lying  under  a  temperate  sky,  of 
about  equal  dimensions  with  the  State 
of  New-York,  which  already  'contains 
a  Million  of  Souls ;  and  upon  which  it 


enume 
feion  wJ 


'1 


145 


bounds,  both  above  and  below  Lake  On- 
Proeeny  ?     tario,  for  a  space  of  one  or  two  hundred 
miles. 


e  perpetual 


to  dilate 
of  a  Step' 
equivocal 


Lmerica,  is 
sh  Geogra- 
le  Atlantic, 
the  bound- 
)louT,  Avitli 
•Id,  a  great 
phere,  un- 
Biift  Upper 
)f  it  which 
ed  during 
lertile  Ter- 
te  sky,  of 
the  State 
containB 
which  it 


This  extensive  tract  is  isolated,  by 
Nature,  between  the  Ottawa  River, 
a  branch  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  Lake 
Nipissing,  with  its  outlet,  called  French 
River,  emptying  into  Lake  Huron,  on 
the  North ;  the  broad  expanse  of  Lake 
Huron,  on  the  North  and  West;  and 
Lakes  Erie,  and  Ontario,  toward  the 
South. 

Upper  Canada  presents  a  solecism, 
in  politics;  as  well  as  a  paradox,  in 
geography.  An  Island,  or  at  least  a 
Peninsula,  in  the  heart  of  a  Continent: 
Its  prosperity,  as  a  Nation,  will  be  its 
Tuin  as  a  Province.  The  stronger  it  grows, 
the  weaker  it  will  become,  as  a  Depen- 
dency of  Britain. — Let  her  beware  of 
enumeration — David  was  under  a  delu- 
sion when  he  numbered  Israel. 

N 


I 


mi 


I 


IP 


m 


■': 


1  : 


Hji 


li' 


•I' 


It 


n 


mi 


146 

I  would  not  be  counted  an  Enemy  oi 
England,  because  I  tell  her  unwelcome 
truths.  I  am  a  Friend  to  Britain ;  and 
have  ever  been  proud  of  my  descent, 
from  the  first  Nation  upon  Earth. 

This  isolated  Territory,  or  if  you  will, 
Peninsula,  at  a  distance  of  a  thousand 
miles  from  any  Sea,  is  now  settling- 
no/  with  English ;  but  with  Americans^ 
who  pass  into  it  by  thousands,  through 
the  ample  isthmus  which  separates 
Lake  Erie  from  Lake  Ontario — and  a 
Man  must  shut  his  eyes,  not  to  see  the 
inevitable  consequence. 

It  appears,  from  history,  that  in  the 
year  1629,  the  infant  Province  of  Ca- 
nada was  taken  from  the  French  by  the 
English :  but  it  was  then  held  in  little 
estimation,  (as  it  would  have  been  iii 
1759,  if  it  had  not  been  a  security  for 
the  peace  of  the  adjacent  Provinces) 
and,  three  years  afterward,  the  unpro- 
fitable possession  was  restored  to  itsj 


ri! 


JS 


147 


n  Enemy  oi 
unwelcome 
Britain;  and 
ny  descent 
larth. 


» i 


r  if  you  will, 
a  thousand 
w  settling- 
i  Americans, 
ds,  through 
i  separates 
irio — and  a 
;  to  see  the 


that  in  the 
ince  of  Ca- 

nch  by  the 
eld  in  little 
ye  been  in 
ecurity  for 

Provinces) 

the  unpro* 
lored  to  its  i 


rightful  Owners. — The  British  Crown 
(it  was  worn  by  Charles  I.)  was  then,  it 
seems,  wise  enough  to  relinquish  Canada, 
as  an  acquisition  not  worth  the  expense  of 
maintaining ;  and  if  it  should  even- 
tually do  so  again,  by  its  own  act,  the 
deed  will  not  be  without  a  precedent. 

If  Canada  was  then  u)orth  less  than  it 
is  now — How  much  less  did  it  cost  ?* 

RETURN  TO  MONTREAL  BY  LAND. 

I  WAS  a  little  fretted  upon  leaving 
Quebec,  at  the  unexpected  demand  of 
the  Poste  Royale,  which  has  been  care- 


■  Charlevoix  says,  with  amusing  simplicity,  that  the 
French  King  would  not  have  reclaimed  LajYouvelle  France^ 
considering  it  as  a  Possession  that  was  a  burthen  to  the 
Crown,  {the  advances  exceeding  the  returns)  but  for  the  sake 
of  being  instrumental  in  converting  the  Natives  to  Chris- 
tianity ;  a  deed  which  was  in  that  age  thought  no  less  meri- 
torious, than  had  been,  in  the  days  of  Lewis  IX.  that  of 
dispossessing  the  Infidels  of  the  Pcpiilchre  of  Christ.  [See 
vol.1,  p.  173] 


1^^ 


lil 


!    M 


il' 


:! 


{i!: 


in      . 


148 

hWy  transferred  lo  Canada,  by  the  bre* 
thren  of  the  whip  :  but  no  other  imposi- 
tion did  I  suffer,  till  I  reached  Montreal. 
Every  Post  Boy  took  his  established 
fare,  one-quarter  of  a  dollar  per  league, 
and  looked  for  no  gratuity.  The  two 
first  Postillions  had  no  whips.  Not  one 
of  them  swore  at  their  horses,  invaria- 
bly managing  the  obedient  animals  with 
nothing  more  than,  "  Marche  done  !" 
There  was  no  liquor  at  the  Post  Houses, 
not  even  where  they  professed  to  en- 
tertain Travellers,  for  the  Police  regu- 
lations are  here  very  strict,  against  un- 
necessary tippling  houses  ;  and  instead 
of  calling  for  something  to  drink,  at 
every  stage,  the  Post  Boys  invariably 
sat  down,  and  smoked  a  pipe,  in  fa- 
miliar conversation  with  the  People  of 
the  house. — One  of  them  was  deaf — of 
course,  he  was  silent;  but  the  next 
hummed  a  tune,  with  incessant  volubi- 
lity ;  and  a  third — whistled^  as  he  toent, 
for  want  of  thought. 


I 


Il  f 


149 


)y  the  bre* 

ler  imposi- 

Montreal. 

stablished 

ler  league, 

The  two 

Not  one 

s,  invaria- 

imals  with 

e  done  !" 

st  Houses, 

sed  to  en- 

►lice  regu- 

^ainst  un- 

id  instead 

drink,  at 

nvariably 

)e,  in  fa- 

eople  of 

deaf — of 

he   next 

t  volubi- 

he  toent, 


At  St.  Augustine,  whose  church  is  at 
the  bottom  of  a  hill,  along  the  summit  of 
which  runs  the  road,  there  stands  what  is 
here  called  a  Calvary ;  that  is,  a  crucifix. 
as  large  as  life,  elevated  upon  steps,  rail- 
ed in,  and  covered  overhead,  with  a  bell 
shaped  roof,  surmounted,  as  are  most  of 
the  simple  crosses,  with  a  cock  j  not  as  a 
late  Traveller  has  supposed  in  remem- 
brance of  Peter^s  denial  of  his  Lord ;  but 
as  the  symbol  of  patriotism. 

At  a  place  called  Sillery  Cove,  in  this 
vicinity,  the  Jesuits  erected  a  chapel,  and 
other  buildings,^."  3arly  as  the  year  1637, 
for  converting  th»  ;  ;ives  to  Christianity. 
They  had  arrived  nom  France  but  twelve 
years  before.  The  ruins  of  this  edifice 
still  remain ;  and  in  Sillery  Wood ;  where 
the  Algonquins,  the  ancient  allies  of  the 
French,  against  the  Iroquois,  or  Five 
Nations,  had  a  large  village ;  there  still 
remain  some  of  the  tumuli  of  these  native 

N  2 


s   :. 


hi 


ii: 


!^l: 


150 

Inhabitants  of  the  forest;  and  their  me- 
mentoes, cut  upon  the  stems  of  trees,  may 
yet  be  traced  by  the  curious  Observer. 

My  Post  Boys  scrupulously  lifted  their 
hats  to  every  body  we  met,  whether 
man,  woman,  or  child,  but  that  kind  of 
obeisance  to  the  crosses  would  appear  to 
be  now  dispensed  with,  for  there  was  but 
one  Postillion  out  of  twenty  or  thirty  that 
appeared  to  take  any  notice  of  them 
whatever — Perhaps  the  service  may  have 
been  commuted  for  a  mental  Ave  Mary, 
in  consequence  of  the  ridicule  to  which 
that  ceremony  exposed  them  from  British 
Travellers. 


POINTE  AUX  TREMBLES. 


5 


\i 


d^ 


At  the  little  village  of  Pointe  aux  trem- 
bles, where  there  is  not  only  a  Church, 
but  a  small  convent  of  Nuns,  the  Parson 


I 


151 


their  me° 
rees,  may 
)server. 


Ifted  their 
whether 
t  kind  of 
appear  to 
B  was  but 
hirtj  that 
of  them 
may  have 
^^e  Mary, 
to  which 
n  British 


:s. 

ux  trem- 

Church, 

Parson 


of  the  Parish  was  stroHing  through  th« 
village,  with  a  book  under  his  arm — to 
show  that  he  was  not  absolutely 

Occupe  a  ne  rien  faire.* 

Amonff  tlic  half  dozen  hovels  of  the 
place,  was  a  lodging  house  under  the 
pompous  designation  of  /'  Hotel  Stuart. — 
I  had  seen  a  tavern  among  the  dirty  lanes 
of  the  lower  town  of  Quebec,  which  was 
kept  by  a  Valois ;  and  a  petty  grocery, 
hard  by,  under  my  own  proper  names, 
both  first  and  last,  with  the  variation  of  a 
single  letter  in  the  surname ;  to  which  I 
was  now  indifferently  reconciled  by  finding 
myself  in  such  company. 

I  am  in  the  habit  of  observing  the  names 
upon  signs,  they  are  often  curiously  ap- 
propriate to  the  occupations  of  the  Parties 
»— What  think  you  for  instance  of  Burn- 

*  Engaged  a  doing  nothinj;.    [Boileau.] 


I.  % 


I, 


E 


It 

11 


i  ■ 


152 

op  for  a  baker  ?  Sometimes  they  afford 
genealogical  traces,  and  hints  of  National 
history.  I  have  often  been  amused  in 
New  England  with  the  names  of  Endicot 
and  CoDDiNGTON — the  posterity  of  former 
Governors,  metamorphosed  into  Shop 
keepers,  and  Tailors ;  and  in  a  suburb  of 
Montreal,  unconscious  of  the  honours  of 
illustrious  descent,  I  observed  a  Rapin 
on  one  side  of  the  way,  and  a  Racine  on 
the  other.  One  was  a  petty  Grocer,  the 
other  a  Shoemaker,  who  had  probably 
never  heard  of  the  Historian  or  the  Poet. 


61 

al 

01 

hi 
d< 


t; 


\>  ' 


[i  ' 


It  was  at  this  place  that  General 
Arnold,  after  ascending  the  Kennebeck, 
against  its  rapid  current,  from  the  sea 
coast  of  Maine,  and  crossing  the  White 
Mountains,  where  they  are  interrupted 
by  the  impetuous  torrent  of  the  Chau- 
diere,  (appearing,  like  a.  vision  of  en- 
chantment, in  the  eyes  of  the  hons  Citoi)^ 
ens  of  Quebec,  who  would  as  soon  have 
expected  an  arrival  from  the  Moon  up- 


I 


ley  afford 
National 
nuscd  in 
'  Endicot 
of  former 
to  Shop 
suburb  of 
>nours  of 
a  Rapin 
lacine  on 
'ocer,  the 
probably 
the  Poet. 

General 

lebeck, 
he  sea 
White 
rrupted 
Chau- 
of  en- 
f  Citoi)' 
ri  have 
>on  up- 


153 

on  the  opposite  peak  of  Point  Levy) 
formed  a  junction  with  General  Mont- 
gomery, who,  having  possessed  himself, 
almost  without  resistance,  of  the  Castle 
of  Chamblee,  and  the  Town  of  St.  Johns, 
had  entered  Montreal,  in  triumph,  and 
descended  the  St.  Lawrence  to  this  point 
— Sir  Guy  Carleton  fleeing  before  him 
in  a  boat  with  muffled  oars.  Thus  scour- 
ing in  a  few  weeks,  the  whole  Province 
of  Canada,  to  this  short  distance  from 
its  Capital.  Montgomery  had  a  Regi- 
ment of  Canadians  in  his  train,  for  the 
French  Peasantry  had,  at  the  breaking 
out  of  the  war,  refused  to  arm  against 
their  Neighbours,  and  were  disposed  to 
favour  the  American  cause;  notwith- 
standing it  appeared  among  them  in  the 
equivocal  guise  of  successful  invasion. 

The  Postillion  that  conducted  me  to 
the  river  Jacques  Cartier  was  quite  a 
humourist.  He  replied  to  my  first  inqui- 
ries about  the   state    of  the    Country: 


Ili^ 


ml 


154 

•'  Monsieur,  Cest  le  pays  le  plus  aimable, 
"  pour  la  misere,  que  vous  trouverez  nulle 
"  part.  On  travaille  beaucoup  pour  gag- 
"  ner  peu.  Oh  !  cest  une  occupation  que 
"  la  vie,  ici,  Je  vous  en  assure.  Nous 
"  avons  un  petit  bout  d'ete  et  done,  tout 
"  de  suite,  la  gele,  qui  vient  toujours  a  la 
"  St.  Michel  [the  29th  of  September] 
"  Quel  que  fois  pendaant  la  Recolte  meme. 
•*  Toujours  avant  la  Tous  Saints,"*  [the 
1st  November.] 


I  asked  him  his  age,  thinking  he  might 
be  about  sixty. — "  Monsieur,  J'ai  qua 
"  rante  ans,  juste."t  I  told  him  I  was 
fifty.  "  Mais  vous  avez  Fair  plus  jeune 
"  que  moi.  Et  comma  vous  avez  de 
•'  I'embonpoint !     Je  pense  que    vous 


i;» 


I'       ' 


l-t; 


•a   I 


JJ 


"  Sir,  it  is  the  most  charming  country  for  misery,  that 
you  shall  find  any  where.  We  work  a  great  deal  to  earn  a 
little. — Oh  !  Life  is  an  occupation,  here,  I  assure  you.  Wo 
have  a  little  bit  of  summer,  and  then  directly  comes  frost ; 
which  happens  always  by  St.  Michael's  day.  Sometimes  in 
harvest — Always  by  All  Saints. 
t  Sir,  I  am  forty  years  old. 


'!i:. 


[3  aimable* 
erez  nulle 
pour  gag- 
patlon  que 
re.  Nous 
done,  tout 
jours  a  la 
eptember] 
)lte  meme. 
Its,"*  [the 


f  he  might 

J'ai   qua 

lim  I  was 

lus  jeune 

avez   de 

ue    vous 


misery,  that 
leal  to  earn  a 
ire  you.    We 

comes  frost ; 
Sometimes  in 


155 

^  devez  venir  de  Boston  ?  Les  Boston- 
"  nois  sont  tous  de  gros  hommes  (He 
"  was  himself  a  little  fellow  of  five  feet 
"  three)  Vos  chevaux  aussi  sont  grands. 
"  Les  notres  sont  petits,  petits.  Mais 
"  nous  les  faisons  aller  a  toutes  jam- 
"  bes."*  (We  were  now  descending  a 
hill,  at  the  rate  of  ten  or  twelve  miles 
an  hour,  I  thought  at  the  imminent 
risque  of  our  necks.)  "  Comme  les 
"  hommes  de  notre  pays,  I'on  est  ob* 
"  lige  de  fair  plus  q'on  ne  peut."t 

I  inquired  how  the  French  liked  the 
English  ?  "  Comme  §a !  Messieurs  les 
"  Anglois,"  were  very  brave,  generous, 
and  so  forth.  "  Mais  ils  ne  sont  pas 
**  polis,  comme  les  Francois.     Quelque 

*  But  you  look  younger  than  I  do  ;  and  in  what  good  case 
you  are.  I  think  you  must  be  from  Boston.  The  Bostoners 
(a  general  term  here  for  Americans)  are  all  big  men.  Your 
horses  too  are  large.  Ours  are  very,  very,  little  :  but  we 
make  them  lay  leg  to  it. 

t  Like  the  men  of  our  country,  they  are  obliged  to  do 
more  than  they  can. 


p 

u 


156 

^  fois  aussi  lis  ne  sont  pas  de  bonne  feu- 
"  meur.  lis  se  mettent  en  colere  sou- 
'*  vent  sans  savoir  pourquoi."* 

Were  the  Canadians  content  under 
the  British  Government?  "  Oh  pour 
"  §a,  oui !  Ton  ne  sauroient  etre  mieux.** 
<*  — Y  a  t  il  loin,  Monsieur,  d'iei  a  Phi- 
"  ladelphie  ?"t  Answer,  two  hundred 
leagues.  "  C'est  bien  loin. — Mais  ce 
"  doit  etre  un  bien  beau  pays."t 


. 


eml 
wit 


We  had  by  this  time  reached  the 
little  River  Jacques  Cartier,  so  called 
from  the  firstexplorer  of  the  Saint  Law- 
rence, who  wintered  here  in  1535,  on 
his  return  down  the  river.     It  here  dis- 


i!    t 

r  ■  * 
1   i. 


■t  <     * 


'*  Pretty  well — ^but  they  are  not  polite  like  the  French. 
Sometimes  they  are  fretful.  They  often  get  angry,  without 
knowing  why. 

t  Oh  yes,  for  that  matter.  We  could  not  be  better. — Is  it 
far  from  here  to  Philadelphia  ? 

t  That  is  a  great  way — But  it  must  be  a  very  fine  countiy. 
(The  word  Philadelphia  b  here  syponimous  with  Pennsyl- 
vania] 


i! 

I'      -i 


r  il:?  . 


157 


►onne  hu- 
>]ere  sou- 


^nt  under 
Oh  pour 
;  mieux.'' 
ji  a  Phi- 
hundred 
Mais  ce 

t 

ihed  the 
called 
tLaw- 
>35,  on 
re  dis- 


French. 
',  without 

ter.— Is  it 

country. 
Pennsyl- 


embogues   itself  between  steep  banks, 
with  a  rapid  current. 

I  was  set  over  this  wild  ferrj,  in  a 
small  canoe,  just  before  dark,  and  had 
to  find  my  way,  with  my  baggage  in  my 
hand,  as  well  as  1  could,  up  the  oppo- 
site hill.  (Its  rugged  heights  had  been 
fortified  to  oppose  the  descent  of  the 
English  in  the  year  1760.)  I  was  re- 
ceived, however,  at  the  inn  (one  of  the 
best  on  the  road)  as  well  as  if  1  had  ar- 
rived itt  a  coach  and  four. 

I  inquired  after  the  Salmon  Leap, 
for  which  this  river  is  famous.  They 
had  just  begun  to  appear.  Two  had 
been  caught  at  the  Falls  that  morning ; 
but  they  had  been  sold.  For  how  much  ? 
Three-quarters  of  a  dollar  apiece. 

Salmon  have  been  caught  here 
weighing  from  thirty  to  forty   pounds. 

o 


I 

r' 

't'. 


1  I 


I    ■ 

I:": 


''  .\n. ' 


158 

They  are  impatient  of  the  heat,  which 
prevails  in  the  great  river,  at  the  time 
of  their  arrival,  and  dart  eagerly  up  the 
cool  streams  of  the  smaller  rivers ;  with 
a  view  to  deposit  their  spawn,  in  places 
of  security.  When  a  rapid,  or  cataract, 
obstructs  their  passage,  which  is  often 
the  case,  in  Canada,  they  will  leap  ten 
or  fifteen  feet  at  a  time,  to  get  over 
it;  and  these  powerful  fish  are  some- 
times seen  struggling  with  insurmount- 
able obstacles,  against  which  they  will 
leap  six  or  seven  times,  if  as  often 
thrown  back  into  the  adverse  current, 

Upon  my  expressing  a  wish  to  have 
some  Salmon  for  breakfast,  the  Men 
said  they  would  go  out  in  the  morning, 
and  try  to  catch  one  for  me.  By  the 
time  I  got  up  they  had  brought  in  a  fine 
one,  weighing  twelve  or  thirteen 
pounds. 


ut 


(;! 


eat,  which 
it  the  time 
erly  up  the 
ivers ;  with 
n,  in  places 
>r  cataract, 
ich  is  often 
11  leap  ten 
to  get  over 
are  some- 
nsurmount- 
h  they  will 
f  as  often 
se  current. 

sh  to  have 

the   Men 

morning, 

By  the 

it  in  a  fine 

thirteen 


I 


159 

I  breakfasted,  with  an  excellent  re- 
lish, and  passed  lightly  through  Cap 
Sant4^  Port  JSeuf,  and  Dcchambault  ; 
observing  a  large  old  Mansion  house, 
upon  the  right;  upon  the  left,  a  grove 
ef  trees,  near  a  small  Church. 

At  the  River  St.  Anne  there  was  a 
large  Church,  unusually  situated,  front- 
ing the  water.  As  I  crossed  a  wide 
ferry,  a  groupe  of  Indian  boys  were 
amusing  themselves  on  the  shore,  half 
naked,    a  wig  warn  near. 

At  Battiscan,  another  large  River, 
not  many  miles  from  this,  there  was  an 
hidian  encampment.  Several  comfort- 
able wior  wams  stood  close  together. 
The  Females  belonging  to  this  tribe, 
very  decently  dressed,  in  their  fashion, 
were  industriously  occupied,  under  the 
trees ;  while  children  of  all  ages  were 
playing  upon  the  beach. 


Ill- 


ill 


i:. 


160 


The  men,  I  was  told,  were  ^ut  a  hunt- 
ing. They  catch  Beaver,  Otters,  Rac- 
coons, Opossums,  and  other  wild  animals, 
such  as  Hares,  Rabbits,  Deer,  and  some- 
times Pears ; — upon  which,  together  with 
Fish  fr<  m  the  river,  such  as  Sturgeon, 
Salmon,  !  ike,  Perch,  &c.  they  often  feast 
luxuriously,  ^  hile  the  inactive  Canadians 
are  sitting  down  to  scanty  portions  of 
bacon  and  eggs.  [See  the  Appendix,  No. 
I.  for  a  particular  account  of  the  Beaver 
of  Canada.] 

Of  the  feathered  game,  with  which 
these  woods  and  waters  abound,  in  their 
season,  I  may  mention  Wild  Geese,  an 
endless  variety  of  Ducks,  Wood-Cocks, 
Plover,  Quails,  Wild-Turkeys,  Heath- 
Hens,  Wild-Pigeons,  in  inconceivable 
abundance.  The  Eagle,  the  Stork,  and 
the  Crane,  are  not  unknown  in  Canada, 
though  rare,  these  noble  birds  sedulously 


J 


h 


I 


161 


out  a  hunt- 
otters,  Rac- 
ild  animals, 
,  and  some- 
gether  with 
3  Sturgeon, 
J  often  feast 
\  Canadians 
portions  of 
ipendix,  No. 
the  Beaver  I 


( 


ith   which 

fnd,  in  their 

Geese,   an 

ood-Cocks, 

s,  Heath- 
jonceivable 

itork,  and 
|n  Canada, 
Isedulouslj 


keeping  themselves  out  of  danger,  in  un- 
frequented wilds. 

Daring  my  progress,  I  was  frequently 
amused  with  tlie  simple  naivete  of  the 
Post  Boys,  one  of  whom  was  only  twelve 
years  old ;  but  had  already  driven  several 
years. 

"  Comment  vas  ton  Pere  ?  Barrabie,"* 
said  one  of  them  to  a  boy  that  followed  us, 
on  horseback,  apparently  for  the  pleasure 
of  company. 

"  Je  veux  boire  im  peu  d'eau,"t  said 
another,  as  he  stopped  short  at  a  spring 
by  the  road  side,  without  leave  or  licence. 

"  Si  vous  vous  voulez  aller  plus  vite, 
•'  passez  avant,"J  said  one  that  was   re- 

*  How  is  your  Father  ?  Barrabie. 

\  I  will  take  a  drink  of  water. 

\  Jfyou  want  to  go  faster,  drive  on 

o  2 


u 


! 


ill 


'  ii 


X'  ■■ 


'5;:   ' 


!   t 


!    t 


fl 


f     ^ 


162 

turning  empty,  to  the  boy  that  was  driving 
me,  and  whom  we  had  quietly  followed 
at  his  own  paces,  for  some  time. 

"  Pour  quoi  courez  vous  a  pied  ?"— 
said  another,  to  a  little  fellow  that  was 
running  after  us,  for  his  own  pleasure. 
^'  Montez  derriere."* 

Observing  larger  barns  than  usual,  as 
I  advanced,  and  a  good  grazing  country, 
though  the  cattle  looked  very  small  and  lean, 
(there  were  but  few  Sheep  in  the  whole 
route,)  I  asked  my  Man  whether  they 
had  begun  to  mow,  in  those  parts.  It 
was  near  the  borders  of  Lake  St.  Pierre. 
"  Non,  Monsieur,"  said  he,  "  Cela  ne 
"  ae  fait  jamais  avant  la  St.  Anne,t  [the 
26th  of  J  uly.]  Every  thing  goes  by  Saints 
here.  I  now  observ'ed  frequent  patches 
of  flax,  barley,  and  oats ;  but  very  little 
wheat,  or  corn. 

*  Why  do  you  run  a  foot?  Get  up  behind. 

)  No  si".    We  never  mow  before  St.  Anue's  dav. 


H 


vas  driving 
y  followed 


le. 


I  pied?"— 
^  that  was 
1  pleasure. 


\  usual,  as 
ig  country, 
ill  and  lean, 
the  whole 
3ther  thej 
parts.  It 
3t.  Pierre. 
'  Cela  ne 
ine,t  [the 
J  by  Saints 
it  patches 
VGTJ  littlf 


163 

Toward  evening  we  approached 

THREE   UIVEUS; 

and  I  was  now  obliged  to  take  boat, 
or  rather  to  seat  myself  upon  straw,  in 
the  bottom  of  a  canoe,  to  be  ferried  over 
the  mouth  of  the  St.  Maurice,  a  stream 
that  flows  from  the  north  east,  some 
hundreds  of  miles ;  by  which  the  Savages, 
in  the  vicinity  of  Hudson's  Bay,  formerly 
descended  to  this  Town,  in  great  num- 
bers. 

As  we  landed  upon  the  beach,  there 
was  a  boat  ashore,  from  a  vessel  from 
Glasgow.  It  was  interesting  to  one  who 
had  been  in  Scotland,  to  see  the  Sailors, 
with  their  blue  bonnets  and  plaids. 

In  the  town,  which  has  nothing  extra- 
ordinary in  its  appearance,  there  is,  or 


s  dav. 


I 


I' 


I 


1 t I*  ( - 


I 


l*i^^^ 


hi) 

m 


1 


SI'" ' 


't 


I 


i'ir 


I'l 


i      ,^1 


164 

rather  was,  a  Monastery  of  Recollets,  and 
a  Convent  of  Ursulines.  The  Monastery 
has  long  been  converted  into  a  Jail ;  and 
the  Convent,  having  been  burnt  down  a  few 
years  since,  and  wholly  rebuilt,  has  lost 
the  prestige  of  antiquity;  though  it  was 
founded  in  1677,  by  the  same  good  Bish- 
op that  endowed  the  one  at  Quebec,  for 
the  education  of  young  Women,  and  an 
asylum  for  the  Old  and  sick. 

A  young  Girl  from  the  States,  (as  the 
American  Union  is  familiarly  called  here) 
brought  up  a  protestant,  had  ta\en  the 
veil,  in  this  Convent,  a  few  days  before 
I  was  there. 

There  is  a  Superieure  and  eighteen 
Nuns  here;  but  I  was  disappointed  of 
seeing  them,  at  matins,  by  that  invidious 
curtain,  whieh  I  have  already  had  oc- 
casion to  reprobate. — Nothing  was  to 
be  seen   but  an  old  Man,  prostrating 


al 

ol 

dI 


ii 


ecollets,  and 
3  Monastery 
a  Jail ;  and 
t  down  a  few 
ilt,  has  lost 
»ugh  it  was 
good  Bish- 
iuebec,  for 
len,  and  an 

I 

es,  (as  the 

illed  here) 

ta^en  the 

lys  before 


eighteen 
)inted  of 
nvidious 
had  oc- 
was  to 
strating 


165 

himself  before  the  altar.  I  was  struck 
with  something  unusual  in  his  manner, 
as  he  rose  from  his  knees,  and  passed 
out  into  the  Sacristy. — It  was  the  Abbe 
DE  Calonne,  brother  to  the  Prime 
Minister  of  that  name,  who  took  refuge 
here  during  the  French  Revolution;  and 
who  now,  it  seems,  thinks  himself  too 
old  to  return  to  France,  even  to  behold 
the  restoration  of  the  Throne,  and  the 
AUar. 

As  1  returned  to  the  Inn,  I  met  an 
old  man  of  whimsical  appearance,  with 
a  large  cocked  hat,  flapped  before. 
I  inquired  who  it  might  be,  and  was  told 
that  he  was  a  Man  in  his  hundred  and 
fourth  year — that  he  had  been  a  singu- 
lar humourist — was  still  fond  of  his  joke, 
and  always  made  a  point  of  flourishing 
his  cane,  whenever  he  met  a  woman  ; 
whether  this  was  a  freak  of  fondness,  or 
aversion,  1  neglected  to  inquire. 


w 


11, .  I 

;(     ■ 

^  i    ■ 


!i': 


!>      1        I 


■I  ' 


V   t 


166 

There  are  here  several  Jewish  Fami- 
lies of  the  names  of  Hart  and  Judah. 
They  are  said  to  be  no  less  respectable 
than  the  Gratz's  of  Philadelphia  and  the 
Gomez's  of  New- York.  The  Father  of 
the  former,  when  he  first  came  hither, 
Gould  have  bought  half  the  town,  for  a 
thousand  pounds,  and  thought  it  dear. 
But,  property  is  now  becoming  valuable. 
It  lies  on  the  right  sid^  of  the  St. 
Maurice,  as  respects  the  United  States ; 
being  on  the  road  to  which,  is  here 
reckoned  a  recommendation  to  Lands  on 
sale.  A  new  Jail  and  Court  House,  are 
erecting,  and  cross  roads  are  laying  out 
into  new  townships,  now  settling,  in  the 
Neighbourhood,  with  disbanded  Sol- 
diers. 

I  got  all  this  local  infori  nation  from 
two  of  his  British  Majesty's  Civil  Offi- 
cers; with  the  exception  o(the  recommen- 
dation above  hinted  at,  (I  picked  that  out 


! 


n 


167 


ish  Fami- 
id  Judah. 
spectable 
a  and  the 
Father  of 
e  hither, 
iwn,  for  a 

it  dear, 
valuable. 

the  St 
d  States ; 

is  here 
Lands  on 
ouse,  are 
tjing  out 

:,  in  the 

d    Sol- 


)n  from 
'il  Offi. 
^ommen- 
hat  out 


•fa  newspaper.)  TheseGentlemen  intro- 
duced themselves  to  me  as  King's  Coun- 
sel, and  Recorder  (if  I  remember  right) 
during  my  evening's  ramble  from  the 
Inn — excused  their  freedom,  as  being 
happy  to  see  a  new  face,  and  insisted 
upon  the  pleasure  of  accompanying  me 
round  the  town. 

The  former  was  a  young  Gentleman  of 
a  refugee  Family  of  the  name  of  Ogden, 
originally  of  New  York—The  latter,  a 
Canadian,  of  Scotch  descent.  He  led 
the  way  to  his  own  house,  ordered  wine 
and  water;  and  pressed  me  earnestly 
to  consent  to  dine  with  him,  next  day. 
He  took  me  for  an  Englishman  just 
landed  at  Quebec,  and  deprecated  any 
fresh  disputes  with  America. 

The  Commissioners  for  settling  the 
boundary  line  between  Canada  and  the 
United  States  were  said  to  be  setting 
up  opposite  claims  to  the  vacant  terri- 


! 

1(1 


i  • 

■  ■        I 


i! 


168 

tories;  which  it  was  obsenred  could 
not  be  worth  disputing  about ;  but  that 
each  party  on  such  occasions  must 
appear  strenuous  lor  the  rights'of  hii 
Country.  The  People  here  wish  for 
nothing  more  than  the  establishment 
of  the  line,  upon  the  height  of  land 
which  separates  the  streams  which 
run  into  the  St.  Lawrence,  from  those 
which  run  southward ;  and  it  is  de- 
voutly to  be  hoped  that  this  definite 
barrier,  will  not  be  exchanged  for  a 
line  of  demarcation,  less  strongly  mark- 
ed by  nature,  as  the  northern  limit  of  the 
United  States — the  preservation  of 
which  is  of  infinitely  greater  importance 
to  the  peace  and  welfare  of  the  two 
Countries,  than  the  possession  af  a  few 
millions  of  useless  acres,  on  one  side,  or 
the  other. 

The  Commissioners  are  collected,  it 
seems,  at  St.  Regis,  some  distance 
above  Montreal,  where  the  ideal  line 


in 


169 


red  could 
;  but  that 
ons  must 
its  of   hii 

wish  for 
blishment 
t  of  land 
IS  which 
•om  those 

it  is  de- 
6  definite 
ged  for  a 
igly  mark- 
imitof  the 
nation     of 

portance 
the  two 

1  af  a  few 

e  side,  or 


^ected,  it 
distance 
leal  line 


strikes  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  from 
thence  proceeds  westward,  up  the  mid- 
dle of  the  river,  and  through  the  great 
Lakes  Ontario,  Erie,  Huron,  and  Supe- 
rior, to  the  unexplored  Lake  of  the 
Woods. 

St.  Regis  is  an  Indian  village — a  sort 
of  neutral  region,  where  the  contending 
Parties  will  be  likely  to  spend  a  good 
deal  of  time;  as  Ambassadors  use  to 
do,  in  disputing  for  the  honour  of  their 
respective  Principals. 

In  a  shop  window  of  this  unfrequented 
place,  I  saw  again,  with  renewed  interest, 
a  Caricature  of  the  Fall  of  Bonaparte; 
with  which  I  remember  to  have  been  par- 
ticularly struck,  when  the  event  was  re- 
cent, in  the  British  Metropolis;  where 
this  species  of  substantial  wit  is  carried  to 
its  utmost  perfection.  It  is  not  under- 
stood at  Paris  ;  where  the  spirit  of  satire 


I    ., 


l!  ii 


:l    J 


I   I 


i  '• 


(111 


I    i 


170 

evaporates  in  a  transient  pun,  or  a  tem- 
porary distich. 

The  little  Ravager  of  the  World  ap- 
pears on  the  left  of  the  scene — on  the 
right  is  Atlas,  with  his  Globe.  A  label 
issuing  from  the  mouth  of  Bonaparte 
exclaims :  "  De  Prusse  be  mine.  De 
"  Russe  be  mine !  All  the  world  will  be 
"  mine! — If  you  will  only  hold  it  up  a  little 
"  longer,  Monsieur  Atlas  !*'  JVo,  no,  replies 
the  sturdy  Bearer  of  the  World,  in  vulgar 
English,  ril  be  hanged  if  I  do.  Since  you 
wont  let  it  alone.  Master  Bony,  you  may 
carry  it  yourself.  And  as  the  grim  Colos- 
sus launches  the  monstrous  burthen  upon 
the  little  Conqueror,  (who  kicks  up  his 
heels,  to  save  his  bacon,  with  ridiculous 
earnestness)  his  principal  Generals  Mar- 
mont,  Massena,  and  the  rest,  with  charac- 
teristic levity  bid  their  old  Master,  "Good 
Night  !"* 

*  This  ludicrous  Caricature,  reniinds  me — perhaps  not 
inopportunely,  ©f   a  serious  RepreseJitaliou  of  the  greav 


4\ 


^i 


I 


1,  or  a  tern- 


World  ap- 

le — on   the 

3.     A  label 

Bonaparte 

mine.      Dc 

rid  will   be 

it  up  a  little 

>,  wo,  replies 

J,  in  vulgar 

Since  you 

S  you  may 

!;rim  Colos- 

'thcn  upon 

ks  up  his 

ridiculous 

rals  Mar- 

th  charac- 

r,  "Good 


-perhaps  not 
of  the  great 


17J 

Near  Three  Rivers  is  an  Iron  Foun- 
dery,  which  has  been  worked  ever  since 
the  year  1737;  and  the  castings  produ- 
ced there  are  uncommonly  neat.     The 


NAroLEON,  wliich  was  re-pulilished  in  America,  after  the 
first  Fall  of  the  Tyrant :  and  before  liis  temporary  Restora- 
tion. I  remember  it  was  on  board  the  ship,  in  which  I 
sailed  for  Europe,  in  the  spring  of  1816;  and  it  liad  been 
the  subject  of  ray  contem[)lation  but  a  few  days  before  we 
were  surprised,  in  the  British  Channel,  with  the  incredible 
intelligence,  that  Bonaparte  was  again  upon  the  throne  of 
France  — 

It  is  a  Bust  of  the  Emperor,  seen  in  profile,  with  his  hat 
on  bis  head,  and  a  star  upon  his  breast ; 

THE  HA'*' 

Represents  the  Prussian  Eagle,  who  has  :tltled  upon  Napo- 
leon's head,  and  ceases  to  struggle  for  release — his  neck 
being  twisted  round,  to  form,  with  his  crest  and  beak,  a 
Cockade  for  the  Conrpieror  of  the  Earth — hitherto  invincible. 

THE  FACE 
is  ingeniously  made  out,  in  every  feature,  by  the  Victims  of 
his  insatiable  thirst  for  glory — (he  contours  of  their  naked 
limbs  forming,  without  distortion,  the  physiognomical  traits 
of  the  unfeeling  Despot. 

THE  COLLAR,  which  is  red, 
typifies  the  effusion  of  blood,  occasioned  by  his  ambitiou 
for  universal  dominion. 

THE  COAT 
is  interlined  with  a  map-  representing  the  Confederation  of 
the  Rliine  ;  on  which  are  delineated,  particularly,  all  those 
places  where  Napoleon  lost  battle?. 


I  * 


ii'ii; 


'    I:      • 


l! 


I!   , 


172 

ore,  it  seems,  lies  in  horizontal  S't -ta. 
and  near  the  surface.  It  is  founi^  in 
perforated  masses,  the  holes  of  which 
are  filled  with  ochre.  This  ore  is  said 
to  possess  peculiar  softness  and  fria- 
bility. For  promoting  its  fusion,  a  grey 
limestone  is  used,  which  is  found  in  the 
vicinity.  The  hammered  iron  from 
these  works  is  pliable  and  tenacious, 
and  it  has  the  valuable  quality  of  being 
but  little  subject  to  rust. 


;ii^ 


I 


In  ) 


THE  STAR,  on  his  breast, 
is  a  Spider's   IVeb,  wliose  threads  are  extended  over  all 
Germany. — 

But,  in  THE  EPAULETTE, 

iiiseen the  hand  of  the  Almighty — descending  from 

the  North,  and — with  a  finger — leading  the  unconscious 
Spider — to  that  destruction  which  awaited  him — among  Ihe 
Shows  oi  Russia:  For  it  was  neither  the  Coalition  of  1813; 
nor  yet  that  of  1816  :  but  the  relreatfrom  Moscow,  that  anni- 
hilated the  power  of  the  Tyrant,  and  dispelled  the  charm  with 
which  he  was  impiously  attemping  to  bind  the  destinies  of 
Europe. 

Whose  powerful  breath  P — from  Northern  Regions  blown , 
Touches  tlie  Sea ;  and  turns  it  into  stone  I — 
A  sudden  desart  spreads,  o"er  Realms  defaced; 
And  lays  one-half  of  the  Creation  waste  ? 


173 


fouDii  in 
}  of  which 
ore  is  said 

and  fria- 
ion,  a  grey 
>und  in  the 
iron  from 
tenacious, 
:y  of  being 


nded  over  all 


ascending  from 
|c  unconscious 
iin — among  the 
litionof  1813; 
:ow,  that  anni- 
the  charm  Avith 
le  destinies  of 


igions  blown 


I 

i 


The  Country  is  here  very  flat,  and 
the  soil  a  fine  sand,  mixed  with  black 
mould.  The  neighbouring  woods 
abound  with  elm,  ash,  oak,  beech,  and 
maple,  of  which  sugar  is  made  in  suffi- 
cient quantities,  for  Home  consumption ; 
and  those  beautiful  evergreens,  the 
white  pine,  the  cedar,  and  the  spruce, 
are  here  indigenous  in  all  their  varie- 
ties. 

No  sooner  had  I  quitted  the  town  of 
Three  Rivers,  than  I  perceived  indi- 
cations of  being  on  the  road  to  the 
United  States.  I  am  sorry  to  say  it, 
they  were  not  all  of  them  favourable  to 
American  morals:  but  there  was  now 
less  bowing,  and  more  frequent  inter- 
course ;  yet  the  Inhabitants  continued 
to  make  themselves  easy,  without  the 
trouble  of  sinking  wells,  in  consequence 
of  their  convenient  proximity  to  the 
water  j  and  they  still  appeared  to  hold 

E  2 


1 1 
I 


171 

■what  we   esteem — necessaries,  as   unne- 
cessary' as  ever. 

At  Macliiche,  I  delivered  the  letter 
from  my  young  Friend  at  Quehec,  to 
his  worthy  Grandmother.  I  found  the 
old  Lady  in  a  retired  situation,  half  a 
mile  from  the  road.  She  was  delighted 
to  hear  from  her  Grandson  ;  who,  it 
seems,  had  been  out  of  health.  She 
pressed  mc  to  stay  to  dinner — to  drink 
something,  at  least ;  and  sent  for  the 
young  Gentleman's  Brother,  to  detain 
me.  He  presently  came  in,  with  his 
dog  and  gun.  They  resembled  each 
other  verv  much.  They  had  both  been 
in  the  army,  I  was  told,  but  their  corps 
had  been  disbanded.  She  should  make 
a  point  of  letting  her  Grandson  know, 
that  I  had  done  him  the  honour  to  call 
upon  her. — 

I  must  have  detained  the  Postillion 
half  an  hour,  but  he  showed  no  signs  of 


rl 

t 


175 


as   uniie- 


tlie  letter 
uebec,  to 
found  the 
)!),  half  a 
delighted 
who,  it 
ilth.  She 
—to  drink 
it  for   the 

to  detain 
1  with  his 
led  each 
>oth  been 
eir  corps 

uld  make 
)n  know, 

r  to  call 


'ostillion 

signs  of 


impatience,  and  never  asked  uic  for  anj 
remuneration,  though  he  had  had  the 
trouble  of  opening  gates,  kc* 

On  approaching  the  Riviere  du  Loup, 
I  asked  him  if  ue  crosbcd  it  in  a 
boat.  "  Non  pas,  Monsieur!  II  y  a 
'"•  un  pont  anperbe  /■*!  I  figured  to  my- 
self a  model  of  architectural  symmetry 
— something  like  the  superb  elevations, 
which  have  been  tlnow^n  over  the 
Schuylkill,  and  the  Delaware. — It  was 
a  plank  causeway,  with  a  single  rail  on 
each  side,  to  prevent  accidents. 

Here  I  would  have  dined,  having  se- 
dulously made  choice  of  the  best  of 
two  Inns  for  that  purpose,  but  could  not 


*  I  find  from  Boucliclte  that  the  Seignieurj'  of  Gros  Bois, 
or  Yamachiche,  was  granted  in  1672,  to  the  Sicur  Boucher; 
and  is  now  tlie  proi)orty  of  Louis  Gugy,  Esq.  the  eldest 
brother  of  ray  Quebec  Friend.  The  territory  belonging  to 
this  manor  is  loTV  and  flat,  near  the  Lake  ;  but  the  neigh- 
bouring Settlements  look  thrifty  and  comfortable. 

t  No—There's  a  superb  bridge. 


^  :l 


'I 


f. 


i 


r- 


i!i 


176 

eat  the  "  ragout  tie  Mouton,  et  de 
"  veau,"  that  was  already  "  tout  pret,"* 
"when  it  was  set  before  me,  so  complete- 
ly had  the  meat  been  deteriorated 
in  the  cooking — Jj lions  ! — Patience. — I 
took  up  my  hat  and  walked  over  to  the 
Church.  It  is  under  the  patronage  of 
St.  Anthony,  who  stands  over  the  por- 
tal, with  the  holy  Child  in  his  arms. 
Now  I  can  bear  to  see  St.  Joseph.,  with 
his  adopted  Son,  in  his  hand  :  but  to 
see  the  Babe  of  Bethlehem,  in  the  arms 
of  St.  Anthony,  or  any  other  saint  in 
the  Calendar,  is  too  much  for  my  spirit 
of  toleration  ;  and,  \  will  say,  it  reminds 
me  of  nothing  better,  than,  ^omgfroni 
Jerusalem  to  Jericho,  and  Jftlling  among 
thieves. 


l\\ 


n 


a 


ni 


By  the  way  St.  Joseph,  a  saint  scarce- 
ly ever  heard  of,  or  at  least  ungnicious- 
Jy  overlooked,  among   us   heretics,    in 


'  Rugout  of  Mutton  and  Veal — all  reatly. 


)n,  et  de 
3ut  pret,"* 
complete- 
iteriorated 
atience. — I 
over  to  the 
tronage  of 
:r  tlie  por- 

his  arms. 
iseph^  with 
id  :  but  to 
in  the  arms 
T  saint  in 

my  spirit 
it  reminds 

o'mg  from 
ling  among 


Int  scarce- 
[j^nicious- 
•etics,    in 


lady. 


177 

the  United  States,  is  the  patron  of  Ca- 
nada ;  and  the  Virgin  Mary  must  be 
something  more  than  mortal,  at  least 
"  Sin  peccado  conccbida,"*  as  the  Spa- 
niards say. 

I  continued  my  route,  by  a  strait 
road,  over  an  extensive  flat,  between 
large  tields  of  wheat  and  barley ;  (soil 
a  light  reddish  earth,  a  little  sandy) 
and  crossing  the  Maskinonge,  by  a 
handsome  bridge,  truly  in  the  American 
style ;  which  appeared  to  have  been 
just  finished,  to  the  adinii-ation  of  the 
neighbourhood,  who  were  gathered 
about  it  in  crowds,  as  we  passed  ;  I  en- 
tered the  town  of  Berthier,  which  con- 
sists of  one  long  street,  or  rather  row 
of  houses  fronting  an  arm  of  the  river, 
which  here  flows  round  an  uncultivated 
Island;  upon  which  Horses  are  suflcred 
to  run  wild,  until  they   are  wanted   by 

"Conceived  willioulsin 


1    ' 


i.  J 


178 

their  owners;  a  Canadian  practice 
which  is  supposed  to  have  deteriorated 
the  breed,  at  least  in  point  of  size. 

A  number  of  these  beautiful  animals 
were  now  to  be  seen,  sporting  them- 
selves at  large,  with  phantastic  gam- 
bols. Now  collecting,  in  droves,  as  if 
for  purposes  of  sociality,  or  combina- 
tion— Thei  coursing  each  other,  over 
the  plains,  in  every  variety  of  pace  and 
attitude.  Perfectly  happy  in  the  ab- 
sence of  cruel  Man. 


!  1 


Horses,  however,  are  much  better 
treated  in  Canada,  than  they  are  in  the 
United  States  ;  where,  to  our  shame,  be 
it  spoken,  these  generous  Animals,  to 
whose  labours  we  are  so  much  indebt- 
ed, and  who  are  as  docile  to  our  wills, 
as  they  are  serviceable  to  our  occasions, 
are  often  hardly  used  by  Carters,  and 
Stage  Drivers ;  and  sometimes  shame- 
fully   abused,    in    the    wantonness   of 


i^ 


179 


practice 
:eriorated 
size. 

il  animals 
ing  them- 
istic  gam- 
oves,  as  if 
'  combina' 
ther,  over 
f  pace  and 
in   the  ab- 


ch  better 
are  in  the 
shame,  be 
nimals,  to 
h  indebt- 
our  wills, 
ccasions, 
ters,  and 
s  shame- 
nness    of 


power.  I  have  often  wished  that  some 
protection  could  be  extended,  by  the 
Magistrate,  to  prevent  their  unneces- 
sary sufferings.  And  surely,  it  must  be 
in  the  power  of  Stage  Owners  to  pre- 
vent their  teams  from  being  injured,  as 
they  often  are,  by  the  dangerous  and 
fool-hardy  competition  of  headstrong 
and  unfeeling  Drivers. 

The  soil  is  here  rich,  (a  fine  vegeta- 
ble earth,  upon  a  substratum  of  strong 
clay.)  It  is  well  cultivated,  and  the 
prospect  of  an  abundant  harvest  is  now 
very  promising. 

The  road  kept  its  course,  along  the 
side  of  the  great  River,  and  I  lodged 
this  night,  upon  its  bank,  at  a  lone 
house,  near  La  Nor:  ve. 

Observing  a  good  many  young  Peo- 
ple about,  I  asked  my  Landlord,  (who 
took  me  on  next  morning  himself,  and 
was  a  sedate,  substantial  Farmer.)  How 


!!)■ 


I ' 


180 

many  children  he  had.  Nine  was  the 
answer.  Some  of  them  married.  "  Ah ! 
'*  Monsieur,"  said  he,  "  Cust  terrible 
"  comme  les  families  se  grossissent 
^'  ici."*  I  remarked  the  favourable  ap- 
pearance of  the  grain.  It  looked  well 
this  year,  he  said,  but  the  last  season 
the  crops  had  been  very  scanty,  parti- 
cularly below  Three  Rivers.,  where  I  had 
already  observed,  that  the  true  t  limate, 
soil,  and  manners  of  Canada  Proper, 
or  Lower  Canada,  appear  to  be  mark- 
ed by  a  definitive  line. 

"  Avez  vous  la  dlsette  quelque  fois,  a 
Philadelphie,  Monsieur  ?"1 

This  simple  question,  at  such  a  dis- 
tance from  that  favoured  soil  and  cli- 
mate, where  the  annual  enjoyment  of 
ple?ay  is  too  familiar  to  be  remarked, 
e.icited  in   my  breast   the   most  hvely 


*  Ah,    Sir,  it's  triiihle  to  think  ! ''H'  families   increase 
hero, 
t  Have  you  the  scarcity  sometimes  at  Philadelphia,  Sir ' 


I 


k 


pK^k 


\o  was  the 
?d.  "  Ah ! 
it  terrible 
rrossissent 
lurable  ap- 
)oked  well 
ast  season 
11  ty,  parti- 
he  re  I  had 
le  ilimate, 
a  Proper, 
0  be  mark- 


Ique  fois,  a 


mch  a  dis- 
lil  and  cli- 
pyment  of 
remarked, 
lost  hvelv 

Inilies  increase 
pdelphia,  Sir ' 


181 

sensations  of  gratitude  to  Heaven ; 
bringing  to  rnind  the  unmerited  super- 
abundance, with  which  we  have  been 
uninterruptedly  favoured,  from  the  first 
settlement  of  our  **  happy  land." 

Two  Calcches  now  approached  us, 
at  a  rapid  rate ;  the  first  of  them,  with 
two  horses,  which  is  very  uncommon  in 
Canada,  and  between  its  broad  and 
lofty  ears  sat  a  well  fed  Ecclesiastic.  It 
was  the  Curate  of  Maskinonge,  return- 
ing from  Montreal,  where  he  had  been 
with  a  neighbouring  brother  of  the 
cloth  (who  was  reading  as  we  passed 
him,  or  appearing  to  read,  without  ever 
raising  his  eyes  from  his  book)  to  pay 
his  devoirs*  to  the  Bishop ;  who  was 
about  going  on  a  visit  to  Quebec. 

We  now  entered  a  beautiful  oak 
wood,  extending  for  half  a  miie,  on 
both  sides  of  the  way.     Expressing  my 


182 

admiration  of  this  grateful  shade,  (this 
being  the  only  wood  through  which  the 
road  passes  between  Quebec  and 
Montreal ;  though  an  unbroken  forest 
bounds  the  horizon,  at  no  great  dis- 
tance, the  whole  way ;)  1  was  assured  that 
"  Tons  les  Generaux  et  les  Messieurs, 
'*  Anglois  I'admiroient  infiniment."* 

It  belongs  to  a  Seigneurie,  of  which 
we  saw  the  manor  house,  called  La 
Valterie,  on  quitting  the  road.  Wc 
stopped  hard  by,  at  a  decent  Inn,  about 
which  a  few  isolated  silver  pines  had 
been  judiciously  preserved;  and,  in  the 
garden,  were  some  of  the  finest  roses  I 
have  ever  seen.  On  alighting,  I  ran  to 
treat  myself,  for  a  moment,  with  their 
delightful  smell,  and  was  politely  invi- 
ted to  help  myself  to  as  many  of  them 
as  I  chose  to  take :  upon  which  I  stuck 


y< 


*  All  the  Generals,  and  the  Jilnglish  Geuilcmen)  admiiei} 
it  prodigiously. 


■I 


shade,  (this 
h  which  the 
uebec  and 
:oken  forest 

great  dis- 
assured  that 

Messieurs, 
Qeiit."* 


■5 


of  which 

called  La 

road.     We 

t  Inn,  about 

'  pines  had 

and,  in  the 

est  roses  I 

g,  I  ran  to 

with  their 

iteJy  invi- 

jy  of  them 

h  I  stuck 

men,  admired 


183 

©ne  of  them  into  my  button  hole  ;  and 
rode  into  Montreal,  with  this  rural  de- 
coration, as  the  Peasants  here  frequent- 
ly do,  with  flowers  stuck  in  their  hats. 

From  this  enchanting  spot,  (for  it  was 
€n  a  gentle  eminence,  from  whose  airy 
brow  an  open  green  descended  to  the 
river ;  which  was  now  sparkling  at  its 
foot,  with  tlie  cheerful  play  of  morning 
sun  beams  ;)  I  was  taken  forward  in  a 
style  of  the  same  pastoral  simplicity, 
by  a  delicate  looking  youth,  whose 
manners,  and  appearance,  reeenibled 
nothing  more  remotely,  than  the  auda* 
city  of  a  European  Postillion. 

A  stage  or  two  before,  I  had  been 
conducted  by  a  boy  of  eleven  years 
old  ;  who  told  me  he  had  already  driven 
three,  and  must  therefore  have  begun 
to  hold  the  reins,  at  the  tender  age  of 
eight  years.  I  could  but  congratulate 
myself  on   the  chiUrs  having  had  some 


■n 


184 
jars  ofpraciee,  before  he  ,00k  charge 


«urly  Fellow    ,h         ,     n      ''""'''    "^  * 

l^nc*   •         7         '""■*^'  «"•  showed  the 
'-asts,gn.  of  dissatisfaction  with  A/l^ 

r^v:'?.^'""''^'*''''''-^  House' 
.,        7/"«  i?«.<..,  had  often  looked  as 
'I  a  pnfl  of  ,vind  mi.rht  havp  J.I        if 
1  „,i,  o     ""Ve  blown  them 

'•oh  away ,  and  I  often  thought  wha" 

eared  vehicle,  would  ' -    -        ^ 

finished 


CoachmakersofPh 


'iadeJphia. 


IftO 


took  charge 
ur  arrival  at 
iluted  hy  a 
late  maimer 
o)s  went  off 
wo  Students 
ssors  of  the 


>oat  at    St. 

le  Island  of 

lands   of  a 

3oy  on  the 

)cen  out  of 

howed  the 

ith  himself^ 

ugii    both 

t  Houses, 

ooked  as 

wn  them 

ght  what 

and  long 

e  for  the 

Iphia. 


O  n  this  passage,  an  elegant  Manbiou 
House  presents  itself  at  some  distance, 
to  the  right ;  and  a  new  Tavern,  in  the 
neat,  two  story,  low  roofed,  American 
style,  is  beheld,  with  pleasing  anticipa- 
tions, by  the  returning  Columbian. 

It  is,  I  believe,  or  rather  was,  an  ap- 
pendage of  the  new  Bridges,  which 
were  constructed,  over  the  different 
branches  of  the  river,  that  here  sepa- 
rate the  adjacent  Islands  from  the  main 
land  ;  and  which  were  intended,  even- 
tually, to  supersede  this  tedious  ferry, 
hy  connecting  Montreal,  on  the  north 
side,  with  the  adjoining  shore. 

But  the  Projectors  of  this  laudable 
undertaking  had  forgotten  to  consult 
their  climate ;  or  to  obtain  security  from 
the  Great  River,  as  the  Indians  expres- 
sively call  it.  Accordingly,  after  serv- 
ing the  intended   purpose,  through  the 

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186 

following  winter,  they  were  carried  off 
bodily  by  the  ice,  when  the  roused  up 
river*  swept  away  every  obstacle  to  his 
passage,  in  the  spri  ng. 


This  idea  of  bridging  the  St.  Law- 
rence, even  where  approaching  Islands 
invite  the  attempt,  is  for  the  present 
totally  abandoned.  Yet  I  have  no  doubt 
that  it  will  be  tried  again,  and  that 
with  success ;  when  adventurous  New- 
Englanders  shall  have  taken  that  as- 
cendency at  Montreal,  which  the  Scotch 
have  hitherto  enjoyed. 

The  Ferrymen  here  vent*»d  their 
passions,  as  watermen  seem  to  be 
every  where,  particularly  apt  to  do,  in 
scurrilous  provocatives.  Every  other 
word  was  Fouire,  or  Diantre  ;  and  every 
thing  that  thwarted  their  humour  was 
bete !  and  bougre  !  and  sacre  m&tin ! 


*  Thomson. 


187 


J  carried  off 
he  roused  up 
5tacle  to  his 


e  St.  Law- 
ling  Islands 
iie  present 
e  no  doubt 
?  and  that 
rous  New- 
ri  that  as- 
the  Scotch 


it'^d  their 
m  to  be 
to  do,  in 
ry  other 
md  everj 
nour  was 
matin! 


We  met  nothing  on  the  road,  after  we 
reached  the  Island,  but  a  solitary  ca- 
leche  or  a  market  cart,  or  a  foot  passen- 
ger, at  distant  intervals,  as  we  drove 
forward,  five  or  six  miles,  by  a  country 
Church,  and  a  Tavern.  It  was  the  sign 
of  the  Three  Kings,  which  is  here  a 
favourite  emblem,  as  well  as  in  Germa- 
ny ;  though  the  Eastern  Sages  are  here 
so  ludicrously  transmografied,  that  I  did 
not  at  first  recognise  the  allusion* 

MONTREAL. 

As  we  entered  the  town,  it  had  become 
very  hot.  I  was  disappointed  in  the 
comforts  of  the  French  Hotel,  to  which 
I  had  been  directed — Did  not  think  it 
worth  while  to  change  even  for  the 
Mansion  House,  late  the  residence  of  Sir 
John  Johnson — Tired  myself  almost  off 
my  legs  with  perambulating  the  streets, 
and  lanes — Suffered  excessively  with  the 
heat,  (to  my  conviction  that  it  might  ocr 


m:    \ 


'm.i 


•i  « 


188 

casionally  be  hot  in  Canada)  And  would 
have  set  out,  immediatel-y  for  New-York, 
if  I  should  not  have  been  too  early  for 
the  next  steam  boat. 

f .        ■ ,  .     ,- 

The  thermometer  was  now,  on  the 
19th  day  of  July,  at  ninety-six  degrees  of 
Fahrenheit ;  Reaumur  was  quoted,  at  an 
ale  house,  where  I  stopped  for  refresh- 
ment, at  twenty-eight  and  three-quarters, 
which  answers  to  ninety-seven  of  Fahren- 
heit, a  degree  of  heat  at  which  spermaoeti 
melts,  and,  at  the  next  elevation  of  the 
scale,  ether  boils. 


e( 
ti 
ki 
w 
d? 

he 


5    i 


1>     ' 


In  the  evening,  however,  I  cooled  my<^ 
self  delightfully  in  a  floating  bath,  that  is 
moored  oiF Windmill  Point;  and  the  next 
morning  my  spirits  were  restored,  by 
writing  home,  and  making  the  necessary 
preparation  for  my  approaching  depar- 
ture, which  was  to  be  the  next  day :  the 
weather  having  in  the  mean  time  become 
very  cool  and  pleasant,  after  refreshing 


I'    '  ■    S  i  "  i 


%U- 


)  And  would 
r  New-York, 
too  earJj  for 


ow,   on   the 
i  degrees  of 
noted,  at  an 
for  refresh- 
'e-quarters, 
of  Fahren- 
spermaoeti 
'ion  of  the 


00  led 


my^ 


th,  that  is 
^  the  next 
'Ored,    hj 
necessary 
g  depar- 
^iay:  the 
hecome 
^freshing 


189 

showers;  a  change  which  I  had  predict- 
ed at  the  table  d  hote,  from  the  very  ex- 
tremity of  the  heat,  agreeable  to  the  well 
known    remark    with    us,    that   extreme 
weather  seldom  lasts  longer  than   three 
days.     But  I  did  not  find  that  the  opinion 
gained  confidence.     It  appeared  to  have 
heretofore  escaped  observation;  nor  did 
any  one  notice  the  fulfilment  of  the  pre- 
diction, but  myself,  when  it  took  place ;  as 
it  usually  happens  with  voluntary  prog- 
nostications. 

But   a  French  Confertioner,  at  whose 
house  I  called,  occasionally,  had  known 
the  thermometer  at  Poiidicherry  as  high 
as  a  hundred  and  two.     He  was  a  man 
of  observation,   and  remarking  my   full 
habit,    he    recommended    me    to    drink 
Lisbon  Wine,  rather  than  Madeira,  be- 
cause Lisbon  will  bear  the  sea,  whereas 
Madeira  will  not,  without  a  powerful  ad- 
mixture of  brandy.  This  it  seems  is  usually 
infused,  immediately  after  the  fermenta- 


Jl 
■I 


m 


;). 


11 ! 


4i 

■ 


!lii 


;M 


i!' 


'•- 


i 


I'-'!    '!' 


i 


It 

r 

LI! 

i 


1  :  r«! 


I 


190 

tion  takes  place,  and  before  it  is  refined 
with  isinglass.  But  the  operation  is  often 
performed  in  England.  Whence  the 
term,  London  particular  Madeira;  as  it 
will  bear  the  short  voyage  to  that  cold 
chmate ;  but,  if  sent  pure  to  the  neigh- 
bouring hot  countries,  it  would  infallibly 
turn  sour.  It  is  regularly  brandied,  it 
seems,  more  or  less,  according  to  the  cli- 
mate it  is  to  go  to. 

He  drank  himself  nothing  but  Port, 
Claret,  and  the  Spanish  Wines,  which 
will  all  bear  the  eea,  without  the  perni- 
cious intermixture  of  Cogniac.  It  is  thus, 
says  he,  a  Frenchman  will  live  in  a  hot 
climate  to  a  hundred  years ;  whilst  Eng- 
lishmen, who  persist  in  drinking  Madeira, 
between  the  tropics,  die  accordingly  at 
sixty.* 


*  This  Adventurer  had  been  in  the  campaigns  of  Moreau. 
upon  the  Rhine.  From  thence  to  the  East  Indies.  Thence 
to  the  United  States ;  where  he  had  married  ;  and  was  now 
Utely  transferred  to  Montreal,  for  the  benefits  of  Catholic 


n 


it  is  refined 
ition  is  often 
V^hence  the 
deira;  as  it 
to  that  cold 
the  neigh- 
aid  infallibly 
brandied,  it 
g  to  the  cli- 


but  Port, 
mes,  which 
t  thfi  pemi- 

It  is. thus, 
in  a  hot 

hilst  Eng- 
g  Madeira, 

rdingly  at 


ligns  of  Moreau. 
Indies.  Tbence 
I ,  and  was  now 
(fits  of  Catholic 


191 

I  now  gave  myself  time  to  visit  the 
Religious  Institutions  of  Montreal,  which 
are  no  less  numerous  and  extensive  than 
those  of  Quebec ;  though  they  arc  far 
less  interesting  to  a  Southern  Visitor; 
having  mostly  lost  that  venerable  appear- 
ance of  antiquity,  which  characterizes 
those  of  the  capital.  I  say  mostly,  be- 
cause there  is  one  antiquated  exception, 
which  I  shall  proceed  to  designate,  while 
its  chilling  effect  is  still  fresh  in  my  re- 
collection.    It  is 

THE  CHURCH  AND  MONASTERY  OF 
THE  RECOLLETS 

in  the  outskirts  of  Montreal.  Nothing 
presents  itself  to  the  street  but  the  dingy 
facade  of  the  Chapel,  and  the  outer  walls 


communion.  His  name  was  Girard,  spelt  exactly  as  it  is 
by  his  Countryman,  that  eminent  Merchant,  who  has  rais- 
ed, in  Philadelphia,  a  fortune  of  I  know  not  how  many 
millions  ;  and  is  now  sole  Proprietor  of  one  of  our  principal 
Banks ;  and  Owner  of  half  a  dozen  Indiamen. 


;i 


I- 
Ml 


W' 

}.!'.., 


i 


■it! 


1    ' 


'  If-   i! 


1-  Hi 
tj 

V 


11^ 


In;  '•* 

la  1^^^ 


?|:. 


192 

of  the  Cloisters;  which  are  still  overshad- 
owed  by  coeval  elms;  though  the  pre- 
cincts have  been  given  up  to  the  use  of  the 
Troops  in  garrison,  ever  since  the  decease 
of  the  last  surviving  Incumbent  Only 
the  Chapel,  and  the  school  rooms  on  one 
side  of  it,  have  been  reserved  for  religious 
purposes.  The  great  door  is  accordingly 
no  longer  opened ;  but  I  obtained  admis- 
sion at  the  wicket,  by  the  favour  of  a  Lay 
Brother ;  who  had  been  sent  for  from  the 
country,  to  retain  possession  of  the  premi- 
ses, upon  the  demise  of  the  last  of  the 
Friars.  Hr,  poor  soul,  is  content  to 
wear,  alone,  the  cowl  of  the  order,  to 
gird  himself  with  a  rope,  and  walk  bare- 
foot, in  solitary  singularity.  The  good 
Monk,  informed  me,  with  a  face  of  un- 
conscious simplicity,  that  he  was  labour- 
ing to  restore  the  Church.  (11  travailloit 
a  la  restaurer,)  He  did  not,  however,  ac- 
company me  in ;  and  I  found  that  his  resto^ 
rations  consisted  in  some  tinsel  lamps, 
which  he  had  hung  up  before  the  altar ; 


193 


11  overshad- 
;h  the   pre- 
3  use  of  the 
the  decease 
ent     Only 
oms  on  one 
or  religious 
accordingly 
ned  admis- 
iir  of  a  Lay 
or  from  the 
f  the  premi- 
last  of  the 
content   to 
order,    to 
valk  bare- 
The  good 
ace  of  Un- 
as labour- 
travailloit 
wever,  ac- 
his  restO" 
1   lamps, 
he  altar; 


but — their  lights  were  gone  out,  I  found 
the  walls  dark  with  age,  and  dreary  with 
neglect,  and  desertion. 

This  chapel  is  very  lofty,  in  propor- 
tion to  its  other  dimensions,  which  are 
not  great.  The  windows  are  at  a 
height  of  twenty  feet  from  the  floor; 
and  the  dingy  intervals  were  hung, 
neither  with  crucifixes,  nor  Madonnas, 
but  with  ecstasies  of  St.  Francis,  and 
prostrations  of  Petrus  Recollectus. 

Pursuing  my  walk  into  the  country, 
more  sensible  than  ever  of  the  cheer- 
fulness of  open  air,  and  day  light,  I 
soon  cardie  across  the  General  Burying 
Ground,  which  is  by  a  late  law  of  the 
British  Government,  without  the  town ; 
none  but  the  Priests  being  now  allowed 
to  be  buried  in  the  cities  of  Canada, 
the  health  of  which  was  supposed  to 
have  been  endangered  by  the  multi- 
tudes of  bodies,  which  were  formerly 

n 


1 1 


i[i'  I 


r.l;       I 


■  t    ■  h 

ll! 


Mt^ 


!  i 


K 


'•!.■ ; 


I'M'  ! 


I'lr 


I ' 


m 


•) 


lift- 


194 

crowded  together,  in  confined  places, 
insufficiently  covered  over. 

Here  was  a  Chapel,  and  a  Corpse 
House,  the  one  was  recommended  to 
the  particular  care  of  St.  Anthony,  by  an 
inscription  over  head,  (St.  Anthoine  priez 
pour  nous*)  and  the  other  had  upon  its 
folding  doors  the  memento  mori^  which 
makes  so  little  impression  upon  callous 
Survivors,  "  Aujourdhui  pour  moi,  demain 
pour  vous."t 

A  mile  further  on,  I  marked  the  castel- 
lated mansion  of  the  Seigneurie,  which  be- 
longs to  the  Seminary  of  this  place.  It 
has  all  the  peculiarities  of  an  old -French 
Chateau.  There  are  round  towers  on 
each  side  of  the  gate  way ;  which  are  said 
to  have  been  fortified  in  the  ancient  In- 

*  St.  Anthony,  pray  for  us. 

t  To-day  for  me,  to-morrow  for  you ;  or,  in  other  word?, 
90  often  repeated  upon  moralizing  tombstones, 
As  I  am  now,  so  you  must  be, 
Prepai'e  for  death,  and  follow  me- 


ned  places, 


d  a  Corpse 
nmended  to 
thony,  by  an 
nthoine  priez 
had  upon  its 
mori^  which 
upon  callous 
r  moi,  demain 


id  the  castel- 

'ie,  which  be- 

lis  place.     It 

old -French 

towers  on 
[hichare  said 

ancient  In- 


[)r,  in  other  word?, 
lonesi 

Iv  jne- 


195 

dian  wars,  and  loop  holes  are  still  dis- 
cernible in  them,  at  a  secure  elevation. — 
For  there  was  an  Indian  village  at  this 
place,  when  the  French  arrived,  in  1640, 
the  displacing  of  which  was  an  early 
cause  of  sanguinary  conflicts. 

Directly  back  of  this  curious  specimen 
of  the  specious  inconveniencies  of  anti- 
quated abodes  is  the  isolated  Mountain, 
which  rises  abruptly  in  the  plain  of  Mont- 
real. Its  summit  is  still  covered  with 
thick  woods:  but  the  descent  upon  the 
other  side  is  highly  cultivated,  and  beau- 
tifully picturesque,  being  thickly  strewed 
with  villages  and  spires,  interspersed  with 
wood  and  water. 

At  a  considerable  height  on  this  moun- 
tain may  be  seen,  from  the  streets  of 
Montreal,  a  large  house,  with  wings,  of 
hewn  stone;  and  a  monumental  Pillar 
appears,  in  the  woods  behind  it.  The 
House  was  built,  it  seems,  some  years 


\ ' 


w 

Mi 


i'     ■  ■    > 

If.',. I 


ll. 


!» 


.1 


i'\ 


iir  ' 


■,:  ,1    ■     I 


196 

ago,  by  the  oldest  Partner  in  the  Firm  ol 
Mc.  Tavish  &  Mc.  Gillivray,  (a  Scotch 
House,)  long  the  principal  Proprietors  of 
(he  North  West  Trading  Company. — 
Mc.  Tavish  died,  whilst  the  House  was 
building,  and  his  Nephews,  the  Mc.  Gilli- 
vrays.  inclining  to  finish  the  House,  erect- 
ed this  Monument  to  his  memory.  There 
is  nothing  remarkable  in  the  inscription ; 
but  the  column  itself  is  a  striking  memento 
of  the  uncertainties  of  life. 

The  Heirs  of  the  Estate  prefer  spend* 
jng  it  in  the  City,  and  have  built  them- 
selves fine  houses  in  the  eastern  Suburbs ; 
where  they  are  said  to  keep  hospitable 
tables,  especially  for  their  Countrymen 
from  Scotland,  of  whom  such  numbers 
have  resorted  hither,  ever  since  the  Con- 
quest, that  Montreal,  originally  French, 
was  in  danger  of  becoming  a  Scotch  Colo- 
ny, before  it  began  to  be  over-run  by  the 
still  more  hardy,  and  more  adventurous 
Sons  of  New  England. 


I 


I! 


197 


the  Firm  ol 
^,  (a  Scotch 
Proprietors  of 
Company.— 
I  House  was 
he  Mc.  Gilli- 
House,  erect- 
ory.  There 
I  inscription; 
ing  memento 


Drefer  spend* 

built  them- 

im  Suburbs ; 

p  hospitable 

Countrymen 

ch   numbers 

ice  the  Con- 

illy  French, 

scotch  Colo- 

-run  by  the 

adventurous 


i  i 


NORTH  WESTERN  TRADE. 

From  the  village  of  La  Chine,  which 
is  situated  at  the  upper  end  of  the  Isl- 
and, Merchandise  intended  for  Upper 
Canada,  together  with  military  Stores, 
and  presents  for  the  Indians,  are  em- 
barked, in  flat-bottomed  boats,  to  pro- 
ceed up  the  St.  Lawrence :  but  the  Fur 
Trade  is  carried  on,  by  the  North  West 
Company,  through  the  Ottawa,  or 
Grand  River,  by  means  of  birch  ca- 
noes. These  are  made  so  light  that 
they  may  be  easily  carried  up  the  banks 
of  rapids,  or  across  necks  of  land.  Of 
these  carrying  places,  there  are  reckon- 
ed no  less  than  six  and  thirty,  between 
Montreal  and  the  New  Settlement  on 
Lake  Superior,  called  Kamanastigua. 
Accordingly,  the  wares  to  be  sent  out 
are  put  up  in  snug  packages ;  and  the 
return  of  Furs    comes   back  in  solid 

R  2 


Ml  i"  < 
f'ii  >.. 


•!| 


?U  < 


1,1 


!': 


.      1 


[■i 


I '  t^ 


'  i  ' 


I  (■ 


198 

packs,  which  the   Vot/ageiirs  carry  on 
their  backs  at  the  different  portages.* 

About  a  thousand  persons  are  sup- 
posed to  be  employed  in  this  occupa- 
tion, who,  spending  most  of  their  time 
at  a  distance  from  home,  contract  ha- 
bits of  idleness  in  the  midst  of  hard- 
ships ;  and  become  so  attached  to  a 
wandering  and  useless  life,  that  they 
rarely  establish  themselves  in  society. 

The  fare  of  these  poor  fellows  is  of 
the  meanest  quality,  being  mostly  no- 

*  The  canoes  employed  in  this  trade,  are  about  thirty 
feet  long,  and  six  wide.    They  are  sharp  at  each  end  ;  the 
frame  is  composed  of  slender  ribs,  of  some  light  wood, 
which  are  covered  with  narrow  strips  of  the  bark  of  the  birch 
tree,  about  half  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness.    These  are 
sewed  or  stitched  together,  with  threads  made  of  the  fibres 
of  certain  roots,  well  ♦'visted  together.    And  the  joints  are 
made  water  tight  by  a  si)ecies  of  gum,  that  adheres  firmly, 
and  becomes  perfectly  hard,  when  dry.    No  iron  work  is 
used  in  them,  of  any  description,  not  even  nails.    When 
complete,  these  fragile  barks  weigh  no  more  than  five  hun- 
dred poundls. 


K     .'1; 


I 


199 


carry  on 
)rtages.* 

s  are  sup- 
is  occupa- 

their  time 
n tract  ha- 
lt of  hard- 
;hed    to  a 

that  they 
in  society. 

Hows  is  of 
mostly  no- 
ire about  thirty 
each  end ;  the 
le  light  wood, 
ark  of  the  birch 
!ss.  These  are 
le  of  the  fibres 
(he  joints  are 
dheres  firmly, 
|o  iron  work  is 
nails.  When 
han  five  hurr- 


thing  better  than  bear's  grease  and  In- 
dian meal,  which  is  made  up  into  a  sort 
of  broth,  requiring  little  cookery  ;  and 
they  beguile  the  tediousness  of  their 
progress  with  songs  to  the  Virgin,  the 
solemn  strains  of  which,  in  the  dark- 
ness of  night,  when  different  parties  of 
these  poor  Pilgrims  overhear  each  other ^ 
have  a  very  impressive  effect,  amid 
these  desert  wilds.  When  I  have  occa- 
sionally heard  them,  myself,  they  re- 
minded me  of  Christian  overhearing 
Faithful^  when  they  were  passing,  i.n- 
known  to  each  other,  through  the  valley 
of  the  shadow  of  death. 

The  distance  from  Montreal  to  the 
upper  end  of  Lake  Huron,  is  nine  hun- 
dred miles,  and  the  journey  usually 
consumes  three  weeks. 

A  number  of  the  Men  remain  all 
winter  in  those  remote,  and  comfortless 
regions,  employed  in  hunting,  and  pack- 


■*^! 


I 


w 


*■',  ' 


'■    i 


II  ^    ,   \ 


■t-^ 


<);* 


I'l '  '  ill 
^  it 


200 

ing  up  skins.  That  of  the  Beaver,  is, 
it  seems,  among  Indians,  the  medium 
of  barter.  According  to  usage  imme- 
morial, ten  Beaver  skins  are  given  for 
a  gun ;  one,  for  a  pound  of  powder, 
and  one,  for  two  pounds  of  glass  beads. 

The  River  Michipicoton,  one  of  the 
thirty  or  forty  streams,  which  supply 
Lake  Superior  with  its  chrystaline  wa- 
ters, interlocks  the  territories  of  Hud- 
son's Bay ;  and  it  has  been  the  scene 
of  frequent  disputes  about  property, 
and  jurisdiction,  between  the  Subjects 
of  the  same  Prince  (carrying  on  the 
same  traffick,  in  that  remote  corner  of 
the  Globe)  under  the  authority  of  dif- 
ferent patents  from  the  Crown.  The 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  it  seems,  are 
compensated  for  the  hardships  of  their 
frozen  Colony,  by  its  superior  readiness 
of  access ;  which  enables  them  to  un- 
dersell the  tardy  Voyageurs  of  the  North 
West  Company;  who   are   obliged  to 


201 


)  Beaver,  is, 
the  medium 
isage  imme- 
re  given  for 
of  powder, 
glass  beads. 

,  one  of  the 
hich  supply 
I'^staline  wa- 
ies  of  Hud- 
the  scene 
t  property, 
le  Subjects 
ing  on   the 
e  corner  of 
rity  of  dif- 
ovvn.     The 
seems,  are 
ps  of  their 
r  readiness 
em  to  un- 
'  the  North 
obliged   to 


make  their  way  up  the   Rivers,   and 
across  the  Lakes  of  Canada. 


THE  FOREIGN  TRADE  OF  CANADA 

is  chiefly  confined  to  the  different  Ports 
of  London  and  Glasgow,  for  the  various 
Articles   of  British   Manufacture;   and 
to  the  West  Indies,  for  the  productions 
of  the  tropics ;  a  solitary  ship  or  two 
being  now  and  then  dispatched  for  the 
Brandies,  Oils,  and  Wines  of  the  South 
of  Europe ;  for  which  they  return  Lum- 
ber, Furs,  Wheat,  and  Flour,  Beef  and 
Pork,  Pot  and  Pearl  Ash ;  some  Horses 
and  Cattle,  Hemp  and   Flaxseed,  Gin- 
seng, and  Castor  Oil,  &c.     Ship  build- 
ing is  also   carried  on  at  Quebec,  to  a 
considerable   extent :  but  the  Balance 
of  trade  would  be  much  against  Cana- 
da, if  it  were  not  for  the  sums  annually 
expended  by  Government,  upon  fortifi- 
cations, and  the  payment  of  the  Troopsi 


^ 


I  Mi 


\)i<' 


fe,; 


'111, 


«i ' 


202 

In  the  year  1795,  at  which  time  wheat 
and  flour  commanded  unusual  prices  in 
Europe,  no  fewer  than  one  hundred  and 
twenty-eight  vessels  arrived  in  the  St. 
Lawrence,  from  Foreign  parts,  amount- 
ing to  nineteen  thousand  tons,  and  na- 
vigated by  upwards  of  a  thousand 
men.  A  still  larger  exportation  of  grain 
(much  of  it,  by  the  way,  received  from 
the  neighbouring  States)  took  place  in 
1799,  and  xhe  three  following  years. 
The  quantity  of  flour  shipped  in  1802, 
was  thirty-eight  thousand  barrels ;  and 
the  wheat  is  said  to  have  exceeded  a 
million  of  bushels. 

EXPENSES  OF  GOVERNMENT. 


1  i  .\ 


•!    I 


1:1 

H  1'! 
■'hi: 


I*  •■ 


HHil 


m\ 


The  Colonial  Revenues  that  year, 
amounted  to  thirty-one  thousand  pounds, 
and  the  expenditures  of  Government 
exceeded /or/^-/^rcc  thousand;  so  little 
profitable  is  the  Sovereignty  of  Canada 
to  the  Kingdom  of  Great  Britain. 


time  wheat 
al  prices  in 
undred  and 
in  the  St. 
ts,  amount- 
ns,  and  na- 
i  thousand 
ion  of  grain 
leived  from 
)k  place  in 
^ing  years. 
Jd  in  1802, 
irrels;  and 
exceeded  a 


MENT. 

that  year, 
id  pounds, 
•vernment 
so  little 

lof  Canada 
ain. 


203 

So  much  for  Civil  Government.  The 
Military  Peace  Establishment,  about 
five  thousand  men,  can  hardly  be  sup- 
ported at  a  less  expense  than  two  or 
three  hundred  thousands  sterling.  Ex* 
traordinaries,  such  as  erecting  new  For- 
tifications, the  repair  of  old  ones,  al- 
lowances for  waste  and  peculation,  with 
other  incidental  expenses,  may  be  one 
or  two  more  hundreds  of  thousands.  But, 
in  time  of  war,  when  the  latter  items 
are  always  increased  beyond  all  calcu- 
lation, or  credibility,  (witness  our  own 
experience,  during  the  late  war)  the  sums 
laid  out  upon  Canada  must  amount  to 
at  least  as  many  millions.  To  say  no- 
thing of  the  naval  armaments  which 
protect,  and  the  transports  which  con- 
vey, fresh  Troops,  across  ihe  Atlantic. 

It  is  to  these  circumstances,  mainly,  that 
Canada  owes  her  apparent  prosperity. 
She  fattens  on  the  wealth  of  Britain ; 
and  the  most  refined  policy  would  dic- 
tate to  the   United  States  to  leave   the 


l\ 


•(!; 


I     I 


^;l 


l!lf 


li:  ^'^ 
,1 


m 


204 

unprofitable  possession  to  born  a  hole 
in  the  pockets  of  its  Possessor. 

As  for  Upper  Canada,  it  is  in  fact, 
an  American  Settlement — the  surplus 
population  of  the  State  of  New-York; 
and  it  will,  sooner  or  later,  fall  into  our 
hands,  by  the  operation  of  natural 
causes,  silent  but  sure ;  or  if  we  should 
become  too  wise  to  extend  our  unlimited 
territory,  a  powerful  Colony  of  Ameri- 
can blood,  must  in  time,  become  an  in- 
dependent Nation ;  and  will  naturally 
be  to  us  an  amicable  Neighbour. 

Hitherto  the  ships  employed  in  Fo^ 
reign  Commerce,  have  persisted  in  as- 
cending the  great  River  to  Montreal ; 
in  spite  of  the  currents,  rapids,  rocks, 
and  shoals,  which  opposed  their  course, 
and  rendered  it  as  difficult  and  danger- 
ous as  the  open  sea.  In  some  instances, 
\vhen  the  winds,  likewise,  have  been 
unfavourable,  they  are  said  to  have 
been  as  long  getting  up  this  part  of  the 


. 


\      ■   \ 

■L  .. 


205 


tarn  a  hole 
[)r. 

;  is  in  fact, 
he  surplus 
S^ew-York ; 
ill  into  our 
)f  natural 
we  should 
■  unlimited 
of  Ameri- 
Dme  an  in- 
naturally 
>ur. 

ed  in  Fo* 
3ted  in  as- 
Vlontreal ; 

s,  rocks, 

ir  course, 

d  danger- 

nstances, 

live   been 

to  have 
irt  of  the 


river,  as  they  had  been  in  crossing  the 
Atlantic ;  I  have  myself  seen  a  fleet  of 
sixteen  sail,  stemming  the  current,  in 
sight  of  Montreal,  for  hours  together, 
without  advancing  a  furlong. 

But  the  invention  of  Steam  Boats  is 
likely  to  produce  a  total  change  in  the 
system  of  Trade.  There  are  already 
three  of  these  Boats  running,  w^hose 
principal  object  is  freight ;  and  a  fourth 
has  just  been  finished,  of  the  burthen 
of  seven  hundred  tons.  These  Boats 
will,  it  is  supposed,  eventually,  super- 
sede the  necessity  of  sea  vessels  as- 
cending higher  than  Quebec ;  where 
they  will  probably,  in  future,  unload 
their  cargoes,  and  take  in  the  returns. 
One  vessel,  however,  may  perhaps  be 
allowed  to  keep  the  run,  as  long  as  she 
lasts.  She  was  built  on  purpose,  for 
this  difficult  navigation,  and  draws  but 
twelve  feet  water,  though  of  ^\e  hun- 
dred tons  burthen,  having  made  the 

s 


1^ 

i-jl! 


i, ' 

i 


I- 


i 


'I' 


■1.  i  ■ 


i  ', 


, 'I .  . 


il 


It 


la  I* 


206 

tedious  voyage,   successivelj,  for  one 
and  twenty  years. 

Sabbath  day  now  occurring,  for  the 
third  time  since  I  entered  Canada,  and 
probably  the  last,  I  took  the  opportu- 
nity which  I  had  before  sought,  without 
success,  to  attend  morning  prayers  at 

THE  CHAPEL  OF  THE  DAMES  NOIRS 

a  charitable  Institution,  which  was 
founded  by  the  piety  of  a  Duchess  of 
Bouillon,  in  1644.  I  now  found  the 
Sisterhood  sitting,  or  rather  kneeling, 
in  a  loug  oratory,  ranging  on  the  left, 
with  the  Church  of  the  Hospital ;  and, 
through  an  open  window,  they  could  be 
seen  as  I  approached  it,  in  long  pros- 
tration, before  the  altar. 

The  Church  was  crowded  with  a 
motley  Congregation  of  the  meanest 
looking  people  that  can  well  be  imagin- 


'^elj,  for  one 


fring,  for  the 
Canada,  and 
the  opportu- 
ight,  without 
prajers  at 

MES  NOIRS 

which    was 

Duchess  of 

y  found  the 

-r  kneeh'ng, 

on  the  left, 

jpital;  and, 

ey  could  be 

long  pros- 


ed with  a 
e  meanest 
be  imagin- 


207 

I  ed,  (I  speak  not  of  dress,  for  they  were 
1  decently    dad,    but    of    person,    and 
countenance.)     Being  naturally  a  phy- 
siognomist,  I  could   not  help  remark- 
ing the  various  kinds  and  degrees  of 
weakness  and  simplicity,    which  were 
strongly  marked   upon  their  features. 
There   was   not  one  face  among  the 
hundred,  that  was  lighted  up  with  any 
indications  of  refinement,  sensibility,  or 
reflection.     The  Priest  himself  was  little 
better  than  his  flock;  and  I  could  not 
forbear  the   ready  comparison   of  the 
Blind  hading  the  Blind;  though,  I  dare  to 
say,  they  were,  every  one  of  them. 

Much  too  wise  to  walk  into  a  well  * 

r  looked  over  one  of  their  books, 
and  found  that  they  were  reciting  what 
is  called  the  office  of  the  Virgin;  among 
the  innumerable  clauses  of  which,  I  was 

*  Pope. 


208 

soon  disgusted  with  that  sacrilegiot;^ 
one  of 


I 


Hhj^ 


•  I 

•  '  ( 

C.H' 

H 


f  ■  I'* 


Dei  genitrix  iutercede  pro  Nobis  :* 

as  if  we  were  not  expressly  told,  in  the 
Scriptures  of  Truth — the  written  word, 
that  Christ  himself  stands  at  the  right 
.hand  of  the  Father,  making  intercession  for 
the  sins  of  the  world  ;  and  that  there  is  no 
other  name  given  under  heaven,  by  which 
wc  can  be  saved,  but  the  name  of  Jesus 
Christ  of  JS'azareth, 

The   changes  were  rung,  however, 
a(  the  same  time,  upon 

Dominuip—Domine— Domino  ;t 

and  before  the  audience  were  dismiss- 
ed, we  had  the  Dominus  Vobiscum  from 
the  Priest;  with  the  response  from  the 


•   Mother  of  God  !  Pray  for  us ! 
t  The  name  of  the  Lord. 


:  sacrilegiot;^ 

)bis  :* 

y  told,  in  the 
vritten  word, 
at  the  right 
itercession  for 
I  at  there  is  riQ 
'««?  by  which 
me  of  Jesus 

J,  however, 


3re  dismisff- 
iscum  from 
se  from  the 


209 

People,  (whether  they  understood  it 
or  not) 

£t  cum  spirito  tuo.^ 

which  was  followed  by 

Oremus. 

In  Soecula  Soeculorum— 

Amen.t 

The  perpetual  repetitions  of  the 
Catholic  ritual,  have  ^certainly  a  stupi- 
fying  influence  upon  the  human  mind ; 
inasmuch  as  they  occupy  the  place  of 
reflection,  if  they  do  not  even  exclude 
it :  yet  I  have  no  doubt  but  that  many 
good  People  have  found  their  way  to 
Heaven  through  this  By-path,  in  the 
long  course  of  seventeen  hundred 
years,  from  the  early  corruption  of 
Christianity;  and  I  copied  with  plea- 
sure, from  the  walls  of  this  benighted 

*  And  with  thy  Spirit. 

t  Let  us  pray — for  ever  and  ever.    Amen. 

s  2 


iil, 


::|i, 

'!■( 


iH' 


ill- 

mi 


if-     1 


210 

cell,  the  following  modest  and  edifying 
inscription  : 

Cygit 

venerable  Demoiselle, 

Jeanne  Lebel, 

bienfaitrice  de  cette  Maison  j. 

qui,  ayant  6t^  Recluse 

quinze  ans, 

dans  la  maison  de  ses  pieux  Parens, 

en  a  passe  vingt, 

dans  la  retraite  qu'  elle  a  faite  ici 

Elle  est  decedee 

le  3  d  'octobre 

1714 

agee  de  cinquante  deux  ans.* 


in 
d( 


g 


'.*  '-i 


\, 


lil 


K 


•!*i' 


*  Here  lies 

that  venerable  Lady, 

Jeanne  Lebel, 

a  benefactress  of  this  House ; 

who  having  been  a  Recluse, 

fifteen  years, 

in  the  House  of  her  pious  Parents, 

passed  twenty, 

in  the  retirement  of  this  placfe 

She  deceased 

the  3d  of  October, 

1714, 
aged  fifty-two  year* 


J^i  I 


211 


;dif)ing 


nt 


arens, 


te  ici 


#- 


I  remember  nothing  else  particularly 
in  this  Chapel ;  but  that  the  great  win- 
dow, opening  into  the  Nuns  oratorj^  was 
glazed,  instead  of  being  grated,  and 
no  curtain  drawn;  so  that  the  Sisters 
could  be  seen,  by  the  Audience,  at  their 
own  altar.  There  was  a  picture  of  some 
Catholic  Missionary  among  the  Heathen, 
St.  Francis  Xavier,  or  some  other  legen- 
dary pretender  to  apostolic  zeal,  holding 
up  a  crucifix,  by  way  of  preaching  the 
CROSS — not  surely  that  which  was  io 
the  Jews  a  stumbling  block,  and  io  the  wise 
Greeks  foolishness :  for  that  was  declared 
to  be  nothing  less  than  the  power  of  God, 
and  the  wisdom  of  God,  in  all  them  that 
believe,  and  obey,  the  Gospel. 


THE    GREY    NUNS. 


From  tliis  place  I  went  to  the  Grey 
Sisters,  or  General  Hospital,  which  is  a 
little  way  out  of  the  town.     This  Chapel 


212 


Ml 


Jf.i' 


NH;]' 


is  richly  ornamented  by  the  piety  of  the 
fair  Devotees :  and  it  has  this  interestins: 
peculiarity,  that  the  arched  entrances  of 
the  cross  aisles  are  unincumbered,  either  by 
grates,  or  doors ;  and  the  corresponding 
windows,  run  down  to  the  floor ;  so  that 
you  see,  through  them,  the  burying 
ground,  on  one  side ;  and  a  flower  garden 
on  the  other,  in  which  pinks  and  poppies, 
with  yellow  lilies,  and  other  showy  flow- 
ers, unite,  very  happily,  with  the  golden 
hues  of  the  altar,  the  crucifix  of  which  is 
of  ivory,  in  producing  a  rich  glow  of 
solemn  colouring ;  reminding  the  Travel- 
ler of  the  vivid  reflection,  from  painted 
windows,  in  the  Gothic  edifices  of  the 
north  of  Europe. 


These  Sisters  have  the  care  of  the  Lu- 
natic, as  well  as  the  Maimed,  and  the 
Infirm.  A  heavy  task  it  seemed  to  me : 
but  they  appeared  to  show  me  every  thing 
with  pleasure;  partly  at  least,  we  may 


I 


213 


piety  of  the 
IS  interesting 
entrances  of 
red,  either  b  J 
)rresponding 
[oor;  so  that 
he  burying 
ower  garden 
and  poppies, 

showy  flow- 
1  the  golden 
t  of  which  is 
Ich  glow   of 

the  Travel- 
from  painted 
ifices  of  the 


re  of  the  Lu- 
led,  and  the 
emed  to  me : 
le  every  thing 
ast,  we  may 


suppose,  (without  discrediting  any  senti- 
ment that  excites  to  love  and  good  works) 
arising  from  self-approbation.  I  declined 
entering  the  Lunatic  ward,  the  sad  ob- 
jects of  which  are,  I  think,  every  where, 
too  freely  exposed  to  Public  view;  and 
would  gladly  have  omitted  that  of  the 
aged  and  infirm ;  but  I  could  not  so  readi* 
ly  get  clear  of  my  Conductress,  to  whom 
I  had  given  something  for  the  Orphan 
Children  (Enfants  trouves)  who  are  re^ 
ceived  here,  without  inquiry,  or  objection, 

I  asked  the  Sister  who  had  the  super- 
intendence of  this  department,  (a  chatty 
old  woman,  who  seemed  determined  to 
hold  me  a  while  in  conversation,)  whether 
her  Patients  ever  lived  to  a  great  age. — 
She  said,  not  often;  but  that  one  had 
died,  lately,  aged  ninety-eight,  and  anoth- 
er, some  years  ago,  at  a  hundred  and 
ten.  I  asked  if  they  were  natives  of 
Canada.     "  Non  Monsieur  c'etoient  des 


^S-i . 


M 


hi: 


1^: 


m 
U 

¥■ 


■li 


i 


..'.: 


111'! 


m 


214 

'*  Francois.     Les  vieux  Francois  ont  de 
"  bons  estomacs."* 

Thus  I  found  the  ancient  prejudice  that 
old  countrymen  born,  live  longer  than 
the  native  Americans,  prevails  here,  as 
well  as  \<^ith  us.  Because  for  many  years 
it  was  observed  that  there  were  more 
instances  of  old  people  who  were  bom 
elsewhere,  than  of  such  as  were  bom  in 
America.  Although  it  is  obvious,  that  aa 
the  first-Comers  were  not  bom  here;  but 
came  over  from  the  European  Continent, 
most  of  them  at  mature  age,  there  could 
not  at  firsts  in  the  nature  of  things,  be  so 
many  natives,  dying  of  old  age,  as  there 
would  be  of  old  country  born: 


ti 
olt 
Bi 
B( 

m 
1] 

vii 

trij 

lor 

to 

An 

*'k 

*^d 


I'' '  ■ 


\ ,  i 


!  II 


1i;f 


Yet  with  us,  in  Pennsylvania,  be  it  re- 
membered, that  the  first  child  born  of 
English  Parents  lived  to  be  eighty-five. 
Several  of  our  natives'  born,  have  since 

*  No  sir,  they  wefe  Frenchmen.    The  old  French  have 
excellent  constitution'' 


■  \ 


'-1:j:: 


,  \. 


\\ 


>is  ont  de 


judice  that 
nffer  than 

here,  as 
lany  years 
vere  more 
ivere  bom 
re  bom  in 
us,  that  as 
here;  but 
Continent, 
here  could 
ings,  be  so 

,  as  there 


be  it  re- 
born of 
ighty-five. 
^ave  since 

French  have 


215 

tuitoed  a  hundred.  These,  it  has  been 
observed,  have  been  chiefly  women.— 
But  one  is  now  Hving,  at  the  town  of 
Beaver,  on  the  Ohio,  who  was  bom  in 
New  Jersey  in  1686,  within  a  very  few 
years  of  the  first  settlement  of  the  Pro- 
vince. Well,  therefore,  might  our  Pa- 
triarch Franklin  say,  when,  during  his 
long  Agency  at  London,  he  was  pressed 
to  tell  whether  People  lived  as  long  in 
America  as  they  do  in  England,  "  I  do  not 
♦*  know^for  the  first  Settlers  are  not  all 
**  dead  yet." 

The  most  frequent  instances  of  longevi- 
ty may  novir  be  observed  to  occur  in  the 
most  old  settled  parts,  such  as  Virginia, 
and  the  New  England  States;  and  for 
this  plain  reason,  that  it  is  there  that  there 
were  most  children,  to  take  a  chance  for 
it,  a  century  ago.  The  comparative 
numbers  of  old  people,  in  any  country, 
is  not  to  be  made  upon  the  population  of 


Ill' 


,    ; ; 

'Hi  ■.  ■ 

It 


]■ 


n 


:'ii 


'     \ 


m 


■'■I'  !  1 


{ 


■   t 


"fj 


216 

those  countries,  when  they  died;  but 
when  they  were  horn.  It  is  well  known 
that  whilst  most  of  the  towns  in  the  Old 
World  have  increased  but  little,  within 
the  period  of  a  long  life,  the  oldest  towns 
in  America  have  doubled,  and  quadrupled 
some  of  them  ten  or  twenty  fold.     . 


IS 

;d€ 

?ac 
ian 
wh 
a  I 
liki 


anc 


It  appears  by  the  London  Bills  of  mor- 
tality for  thirty  years,  viz.  from  1728  to 
1758,  that  out  of  seven  hundred  9nd  fifty 
thousand  deaths,  which  took  place  in  that 
city,  there  were  two  hundred  and  forty- 
two  persons  who  had  survived  their  hun- 
dredth year.     This  is  something  over  one 
for  every  three  thousand,  which  was  more 
than  half  of  the  whole  number  of  Inhabi 
tants  in   Philadelphia,  a   hundred   years  i  ^  , 
ago.     If  therefore,  the  Philadelphia  Bills 
now  show   two  centenarians  in  a  year, 
(which  they  invariably  do)  it  is  sufficient 
to  place  us  on  a  similar  scale  with  the 
City  of  London.     And  if  that  proportion 


gro 


^Jive 
Am 
jclin 

jas 
fwor 


1 


217 


is  greatly  exceeded 


annual 


Russia  accord 
lor  that  extensive 
remembered  that 


ing  to 


died;    but 

i/^ell  known 

in  the  Old    t  ■  . 

.  1  •      i  deductions  may  be  safely  made  from  the 

'  accounts  furnished  by  the  illiterate  popes 

and   papas  of  a  Nation,  the  interior  of 

which  is  yet  but  half  civilized ;  and  which, 

a  hundred  and  fifty  years  ago,  was  little 

likely   to   be  very  correct   about  births, 

and  dates. 


eldest  towns 
quadrupled 

fold. 


Bills  of  mor- 
:rom  1728  to 
Ired  gnd  fifty 

place  in  that 
fed  and  forty- 

ed  their  hun- 


Let  us  hear  no  more,  therefore,  of  the 
groundless  presumption,  that  people 
live  longer  in  Europe  than  they  do  in 
America. — It  is  not  the  fault  of  our 
hmg  overo  Ijcliniate,  nor  our  soil,  if  we  do  not  live 
ich  was  mo  ^  ^Q^g  here  as  in  any  part  of  the 
er  ot  Inna  1"J|^qi.ij.    though  the  general  participation 


mdred   years 
|adelphia  Bills 
in  a  year, 


pi  the  luxuries,  as  well  as  of  the  necessa- 
ries of  life,  may  oftener  prevent,  with 
Jas,  the  natural  term  of  existence,  among 
it  is  sufficient  ||^^j  class  of  people — the  hard  working 
ale  with  tneipQQj.^  which     most    frequently,   in   all 
at  proportion  |;ountries,  arrives  at  the  utmost  period 
f  human  life. 


1. 


ll:;;' 


it    < 


I*; 


I  t 


!  f 


r  I » 


k!i1 


i  i;'i 


^ 


'I 

III 


.  yi 


218 


THE  CATHEDRAL  OF  MONTREAL. 

I  NOW  went  to  the  Cathedral,  which 
has  been  lately  new  fitted  up,  gilded 
and  painted,  in  the  most  glittering  style 
imaginable. 

This  building  is  neither  so  long,  nor  so 
high,  as  the  Cathedral  of  Quebec,  and 
it  makes  a  very  plain  appearance,  out- 
side, standing  as  it  does,  in  the  middle 
of  the  principal  avenue,  which  leads 
round  it,  on  the  north  side,  across  a 
Public  square.  But  no  expense  has 
been  spared,  upon  the  interior,  nor  has 
any  idea  of  Christian  simplicity  been 
suffered  to  check  the  exuberance  of 
fancy,  in  the  decorations  of  the  choir. 

I  found  the  tribune  of  this  Church 
particularly  offensive  to  my  orthodoxy, 
as  the  great  Crucifix  does  not  occupy 
its  proper  station  (Can  it  be  possible 
that  it  should  have  been  removed  to  a 


( 


MONTREAL 

ledral,  which 
d  up,  gilded 
littering  style 


o  long,  nor  so 
Quebec,  and 
earance,  out- 
i  the  middle 
which  leads 
de,  across  a 
expense  has 
rior,  nor  has 
iplicity  been 
uberance  of 
3f  the  choir. 

this  Church 

y  orthodoxy, 

not  occupy 

be  possible 

'emoved  to  a 


219 

bide  aisle,  where  it  now  stands  ?)  in  the 
I  centre  of  the  Tribune,  the  appropriate 
j  situation,  which  it  invariably  retains,  in 
•  our  Philadelphia   Chapels  (which,  by 
the  way,  are  a  good  deal  new-modelled 
hy  the  benefit  of  surrounding  observa- 
tion and  example)  to  make  room  for  a 
Statue  of  the  Virgin—not  as  usual,  with 
the  Child   in   her  arms,   which   could 
alone  countenance  the  impropriety :  but 
in  the  elegant  contours  of  a  Grecian 
female  (It  might  pass  as  well  for  a  Juno 
or  a  Ceres)  standing  in  a  niche  above 
the   altar;   whilst   Corinthian  columns, 
fluted  in  green  and  gold,  and  surmounted 
with  curved  scrolls  of  the  same  glitter- 
ing materials,  support  over  her  head  a 
crown,  richly  gilt. 

Is  not  this  worshipping  the  creature, 
more  than  the  Creator? — Yet,  we  are 
told,  that  the  Lord^  our  God,  is  a  jealous 
God;  who  will  not  give  his  glory  to 
another,  nor  his  praise  to  graven  images. 


li 


U 


.  i^ 


i, '  • 


•I 


¥ ' 


220 

Alas!  that  the  Professors  of  the  first 
Christian  Church — instead  of,  leaving 
those  things  that  were  behind,  and,  going 
on  unto  perfection,  should  fall  short  of  the 
ancient  Jews,  under  the  shadowy  Dis- 
pensation of  the  Law.  They  were  for- 
bidden to  make  unto  themselves  the  likeness 
of  any  thing  in  heaven,  or  upon  earth — to 
worship  it.  There  was  accordingly  (we 
are  told  by  St.  Paul — a  Hebrew  pro- 
selyte, of  the  tribe  of  Benjamin)  nothing 
contained  in  the  Ark  of  the  Covenant 
(beside  the  Tables  of  the  Law) — save  a 
pot  of  manna,  and  Jiaron''s  rod,  that  budded, 
in  the  presence  of  Pharaoh;  which 
things  were  preserved  for  a  memorial, 
to  succeeding  Generations,  of  the  won- 
ders which  the  Lord  had  wrought,  in 
Egypt,  for  the  deliverance  of  his  chosen 
People.  And,,  to  this  day,  the  Jews 
have  nothing  in  their  tabernacles,  but  a 
Copy  of  the  Law;  which  is  produced, 
before  the  People,  every  Sabbath-Day ; 
not  to  be  worshipped ;  but  merely  to  be 
commemorated,  and  obeyed. 


>- ' 


'V. 


ill 


m  \ 


221 


s  of  the  first 
]  of,    leaving 
I,  and,  going 
Ishort  of  the 
ihadowy  Dis- 
\ey  were  for- 
)es  the  likeness 
pon  earth — to 
ordingly  (we 
lebrew  pro- 
tnin)  nothing 
the   Covenant 
aw) — save  a 
/,  that  budded, 
aoh ;    which 
a  memorial, 
of  the  won- 
wrought,  in 
►f  his  chosen 
S  the  Jews 
lacles,  but  a 
s  produced, 
hhath'Day ; 
aerely  to  be 


This  Cathedral  is  dedicated  to  JVotre 
Dame,  rather  than  to  God  Almighty, 
and  the  perpetual  recurrence  of  *^ve 
Marias  all  over  the  building,  shows  in- 
deed too  plainly  that  this  is  a  Temple 
dedicated,  in  the  first  place  to  the  Virgin 
Mary — in  the  second  to  Jesus  Christ.* 

*  It  is  truly  and  excellently  spoken  of  Seneca,  says 
Lactantius:  "  Consider  the  majesty,  the  goodness,  and 
"the  adorable  mercies  of  the  Almighty:  His  pleasure 
"  lies  not  in  the  magnificence  of  temples  made  with 
*'  stone ;  but  in  tho  piety  and  devotion  of  consecrated 
•'  hearts." 

And  in  the  book  that  ihis  same  Heathen  Philosopher 
wrote  against  superstitions ;  treating  of  those  who  worship- 
ped images,  St.  Austin  observes,  he  writes  thus :  •'  They 
"  represent  the  holy,  the  immortal,  and  the  invisible  Gods, 
''  with  the  basest  materials,  and  without  life  or  motion,  in 

"  the  forms  of  Men." "  All  the.se  things,"  continues  the 

ancient  Sage,  "a  wise  man  will  observe,  for  the  law's 
"  sake,  more  than  for  that  of  the  gods  ;  and  all  this  rabble 
"  of  Deities,  which  the  superstition  of  many  ages  has 
"  gathered  together,  we  are  in  such  manner  to  adore,"  says 
Seneca,  (darkly,  as  one  who  could  yet  only  see  men  as 
trees)  "  as  to  consider  their  worship  to  be  rather  matter  of 
"  custom,  than  of  conscience." — How  much  farther  did 
this  enlightened  Heathen  penetrate  into  Ihe  nature  of  spi- 
ritual worship  than  those  who  venerate  images .'  or  at  least 

T    2 


.'!■ 


fiiji' 


i'k'  ( 


•w 


1 


life.!; 

Iii'f.i' 


222 

Even  St.  Peter,  with  his  keys,  hay 
been  here  obliged  to  give  way  to  the 
exclusive  pretensions  of  the  Virgin — None 
but  Saints  of  their  own  making  have 
been  able  to  stand  the  too  powerful 
competition  here,  (They  worship  the 
work  of  their  own  hands — that  which 
their  own  fingers  have  made.)  In  the 
side  chapels,  opposite  to  the  altars  of 
the  favourite  Divinity,  the  curious  Stran- 
ger may  find  a  St.  Francis,  or  a  Si.  An- 
thony, in  garments  of  sack-cloth — gaunt 


■M' 


.    t  u 

I,  -^ 


make  use  of  such  representations^  in  Christian  Churches,  as 
the  means  of  heightening  religious  fer\'Our ! 

But  Christians  have  no  occasion  foi  Heathen  aifthoritics 
against  outward  Temples,  and  symbol-c  worship.  *•  For  the 
"  Lord  God,"  said  David,  "•  dwelleth  not  in  Temples,  made 
•'  with  hands" — Not  surely  then  in  a  consecrated  Host,  at  the 
command  of  a  sinful  Priest — to  bring  forth,  as  a  God ;  or  to 
put  away,  as  a  thing  of  nought.  "  What  house  will  ye  build 
"  me,  saith  the  Lord  .'  or,  where  is  the  place  of  my  rest  ?'* 

Yet  this  was  the  same  munificent  Potentate,  that  prepared, 
before  his  death,  for  the  House,  that  was  to  be  built  in 
Jerusalem,  for  the  God  of  Heaven,  a  hundred  thousand  talents 
«f  gold ;  and  a  thousand  thousand  talents  of  silver  ;  a7id  of 
hrass  mid  iron,  tvilhoul  xveight,  or  number. 


i 


li. 


Jj.i 


223 


i    KEYS,    liHb 

ivay  to  the 
gin — None 
aking  have 
0  powerful 
worship  the 
that  which 
e.)  In  the 
le  altars  of 
ious  Stran- 
r  a  Si.  An- 
oth — gaunt 

ian  Churches,  as 

ithen  ailthoriiics 
ship.  '•  For  the 
Temples,  made 
ated  Hosty  at  the 
as  a  God ;  or  to 
ise  will  ye  build 
of  my  rest  ?" 
e,  that  j;re/»arerf, 
to  be  built  in 
thousand  talents 
silver;  and  of 


j  and  ghastly ;  who  have  been  permitted 
to  pay  their  obeisance  to  the  incarna- 
tion ;  but  every  close,  and  every  open 
compartment,  throughout  the  aisles  and 
galleries,  of  this — I  will  not  call  it, 
Christian^  Temple,  exhibits  the  name 
(must  I  say,  of  the  idol  of  its  adora- 
tion ?)  in  the  following  device  of  devout 
ingenuity;  in  which,  in  a  single  cipher, 
are  interwoven  the  letters  M,  A,  for  the 
name  of  J/ana,  and  V,  for  the  attribute 
of  Virginity, 


— —  Apropo  of  KEYS— I  do  not  myself 
regret  the  absence  of  the  Prince  of  thcJ 
Apostles,  as 'they  call  him  at  Rome. — I 
think  St.  Peter  has  kept  the  keys  of 
Heaven  s    Wicket*    long   enough,    since 

*  MHlon 


>:'.! 


'^;i 


!>, 


I.  f 


'  i'  1 

I- 

■  f 

'(■ 

ii 

li 

224 

they  were  frst  givei),  not  to  hhn,  as  a 
Man — subject,  as  the  history  abundant- 
ly testifies,  to  like  passions  with  his 
Fellow  Creatures  :  but  to  the  Revelation 
which  he  had  received,  in  common  with 
other  Believers.  And  his  Successor, 
like  the  dog  in  the  manger,  will  neither 
enter  in  himself,  nor  suffer  them  that 
would. 

But  Pius  VII  with  all  hisi  briefs,  and 
his  bulls,  (even  if  they  should  again  be 
seconded  by  the  thunder  of  the  Vatican) 
cannot  prevent  the  candle,  which  has  been 
lighted  by  the  Bible  Societies,  frc  m 
being«f  ut  upon  the  candlestick — no  more 
to  b^  hid,  under  a  bed,  or  under  a  bushel. 
*-Thb  Scriptures  op  Truth,  will  at 
length,  be  circulated,  throughout  the 
habitable  globe ;  and  there  "will  be,  if  I 
may  be  allowed  the  comparison,  a  se- 
cond preaching  of  the  Gospel — amons, 
all  JVations. 


225 


to  him,  as  a 
ry  abundant- 
ms  with  his 
^he  Revelation 
ommon  with 
8  Successor, 
,  will  neither 
jr  them   that 


n  briefs,  and 
>uld  again  be 
the  Vatican) 
lich  has  been 
ciETiES,  frt  m 
k — no  more 
nder  a  bushel. 
LTTH,  will  at 
oughout  the 
will  be,  if  I 
arison,  a  se- 
spel — amon^s 


i 


In  this  dark  Cathedral  (F  speak  of 
spiritual  darkness,  for  tliis  Church  is  as 
brilliant  as  a  ball-room)  the  trade  of  auri- 
cular confession  is  more  extensively  car- 
ried on,  than  in  any  Gothic  edifice  I  ever 
was  in ;  and  I  have  been  in  many  of  them, 
in  my  time,  in  the  most  bigoted  countries 
in  Europe.  I  suppose  there  are  not  lesg 
than  twenty  Confessionals  around  the 
walls,  at  which  Penitents  arc  occasionally 
seen  ringing  the  bells,  to  call  their  favourite 
Confessors  to  the  seat  of  judgment ;  and 
Priests,  in  their  white  vestments,  are  to 
be  seen  pacing  the  aisles,  to  answer  these 
incessant  requisitions,  every  hour  in  the 
day. 

This  magnificent  Edifice  was  now 
crowded  to  overflowing — not  with  the 
Populace  merely,  many  of  whom,  hav- 
ing no  seats  in  the  Church,  stood  bare 
headed  about  the  door,  or  kneeled  upon 
the  steps,  it  being  impossible  for  them 
all  to  get  in.    But  the  Choir  was  lined 


! 


iji;:   ' 


(, ' 


)'  ' 


111 
1: 


226 

with  Priests  and  Chanters,  in  white— 
the  Black  Nuns  were  there — and  the 
Grey  Nuns  were  there,  (though  thej 
have  all  Churches  of  their  own  to  go 
to) — Nay,  I  found  my  old  Monk  assist- 
ed here,  instead  of  attending  to  his  re- 
storations  at  the  Recollets,  making  a  gro- 
tesque appearance ;  amidst  glittering 
gew  gaws,  in  his  coarse  gown  and  hood 
—which  was  thrown  back,  to  discover 
his  shaven  crown. — In  short,  it  seemed 
as  if  the  Hierarchy  had  mustered  all  its 
forces, 


Black,  white,  and  grey,  with  all  their  trumpery  ; 
Cowls,  hoods,  and  habits. 

There  was,  however,  a  Sermon,  to  coun- 
tenance this  universal  assemblage,  which 
was  declared  by  an  old  Woman,  that 
sat  next  me,  (between  one  pinch  of  snuff 
and  another)  to  be,  un  beau  Sermon  !  But 
I  shall  not  ojive  myself  the  trouble  to  re- 
port any  part  of  it  ,•  for  next  morning, 


m 


ill 


227 


rs,  in  white — 
ere — and  the 
(though  they 
(ir  own  to  go 
Monk  assist- 
ling  to  his  re. 
[naking  a  gro* 
dst  glittering 
own  and  hood 
c,  to  discover 
irt,  it  seemed 
istered  all  its 


leir  trumpery  j 

non,  to  coun- 
jlage,  which 
^oman,  that 
nch  of snnff 
Sermon!  But 
rouble  to  re- 
xt  morning, 


seeing  a  Catholic  Catechism,  in  a  Book- 
seller's window,  I  asked  to  look  at  it  ; 
and  returned  it,  with  evident  indigna- 
tion, as  soon  as  I  came  to  the  following 
passage,  which  is  worthy  of  the  intole- 
rant spirit  of  the  darkest  ages  : 

Demande.  Ya  t'-il  plusieurs  Eg- 
lises  Catholiques  ? 

Reponse.  Non.  II  n'y  a  de  catho- 
liques que  la  seule  Eglise  Romaine. 
Hors  de  laquelle  il  n  y  a  point  de  sa- 
lut.* 

Demande.  Que  faut  il  done  penser 
de  ces  autres  Societes  qui  se  nomment 
Eglises,  et  ne  professent  pas  la  meme  foi 
que  nous  ?  ou  ne  sont  pas  soumises  aux 
me  mes  pasteurs  rf 

*  Question.    Arc  there  several  Catholic  Churches  ? 

Answer.  No.  There  is  no  Catholic  Church,  but  that  of 
Rome — Out  of  which  there  is  no  salvation. 

t  Question.  What  must  we  then  believe  of  those  other 
Societies  which  call  themselves  Churches,  and  do  not  pro- 
fess the  same  faith  with  us .''  or  are  not  subjected  to  the 
<iame  Pastors .' 


.■  V 


r:,u 


I'.r, 
\  ■, 


I'll;:'  ' 


,.  !■' 


,f     'i 

If 


Jl.  in 


^■i^^i 


1^'  . 


22» 

Reponse.     Elles  sont  des  institutionb  '     ' 
humaines,  qui  ne  servent  qu'  a  egarer 
les  hommes,  et  ne  sauroient  les    con- 
duire  a  Dieu.* ^     ' 


But  let  me  not  involve  myself  in  dark- 
ness till  I  become  myself  uncharitably 
blind. — Adjoining  to  this  Cathedral  is 
the  extensive  Edifice  called  the  Semi- 
nary, which  was  here  instituted  in  the 
year  1657,  by  the  Abbe  Quetus,  and  a 
deputation  of  Teachers  from  the  cele^ 
brated  Brotherhood  of  St.  Sulpice,  at 
Paris. 

The  present  Superiors  of  this  noble 
Institution,  with  other  Clergymen,  par- 
ticularly of  the  dignified  class,  are  said 
to  be  men  of  great  learning,  and  exem- 
plary piety;  who  confine  themselves, 
with  the  most  self-denying  strictness,  to 


*'  Answer.  They  are  human  Institutions,  which  serve  to 
lead  Men  astray,  and  can  in  no  wise  direct  them  t" 
r.od. 


229 


les  institutionb^  ^^^^  exercise  of  their  religious  duties; 
qu'  a  egarer     ^"^  ^^^^  irreproachable  lives;  depriv 


ient  les    con- 


myself  in  dark- 
r  uncharitably 
Cathedral  is 
led  the  Semi- 
ituted  in  the 
luetus,  and  a 
rom  the  cele- 
t.  Sulpice,  at 


of  this  noble 
•gymen,  par- 
ass,  are  said 
:?  and  exem- 
themselves, 
strictness,  to 


IS,  which  serve  to 
!  direct  thepa    to 


ed  as  they  are  by  their  stations,  of  the 
inestimable  comforts  of  female  society. 

This  Seminary  of  learning  is  chiefly 
designed  for  the  education  of  the  Priest- 
hood;  but  others  are  admitted  into  this 
trul^  Catholic  college ;  even  Protestant 
Children,  from  whom  conformity  is  not 
exacted.     To  this  excellent  Institution 
is   attached  an  extensive  garden,  with 
shady   avenues   for   air  and  exercise; 
which  I  regret  not  having  seen,  as  I 
have  since  understood  that  the  Teach- 
ers are  not  merely  accessible,  but  po- 
litely attentive  to  Strangers,  who  wish 
to  survey  the  Establishment,  or  to  pro- 
secute, in  its  academical  groves,  bota- 
nical researches. 

MISCELLANEOUS  OBSERVATIONS. 

The  City  of  Montreal  has  thriven 
surprisingly,    within  a  few  years,  and 

V 


.•t'j 

•I 


.fc!' 


i: 


!P.' 


''i'l,-' 


:M 


W! 


i 


:?'.«! 


l:il  I ) 


230 

now  contains  as  many  Inhabitants  ab 
Quebec,  say  twelve  or  fifteen  thousand. 

There  has  been,  and  in  time  of  peace, 
will  continue  to  be,  a  great  influx  of 
Americans,  chiefly  from  the  New-Eng- 
land States,  who  are  winding  themselves 
into  all  the  most  active  and  ingenious 
employments.  Episcopal  and  Presby- 
terian Chapels,  or  Meeting  Houses,  have 
long  been  established  here ;  and  of  late 
*he  Methodists — those  pioneers  of  re/or- 
mation,  have  broke  ground,  within  the 
precincts  of  the  Catholic  Church — one 
and  indivisible,  as  it  is  ! 

The  relations  of  Trade  increase 
daily,  between  this  place  and  the  Uni- 
ted States ;  and  such  is  the  course  of 
exchange,  that  the  notes  of  our  princi- 
pal Banks  circulate  freely  in  all  the 
towns  of  Canada.  The  Merchants  of 
Montreal  are  now,  however,  about  es- 
tablishing a  Bank  of  their  own,  with  a 


oi 


[ihabitants   as' 
een  thousand. 

time  of  peace, 
;reat  influx  of 
he  New-Eng- 
ng  themselves 
and  ingenious 
and  Presby- 
;  Houses,  have 
e  ;  and  of  late 
sneers  of  refor- 
id,  within  the 
;  Church — one 


ade  increase 
and  the  Uni- 
the  course  of 
f  our  princi- 
y  in  all  the 
erchants  of 
r,  about  es- 
own,  with  a 


231 

Capital  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  thou- 
sand pounds  sterling,  something  more 
than  a  million  of  dollars.  This  will 
have  a  tendency  to  limit  the  circulation 
of  Foreign  paper,  and  promote  domes- 
tic improvement,  as  well  as  facilitate 
the  operations  of  Trade  :  though  the 
exports  from  hence  are  chiefly  confined 
to  Wheat  and  Flour,  Peltry,  Lumber, 
kc.  received  from  Upper  Canada,  or  the 
United  States. 

If  the  vicinity  of  Montreal  is  less 
wildly  magnificent,  than  that  of  Que- 
bec, it  is  far  more  luxuriant  and  smi- 
ling. Hero  wheat  and  rye  seldom  fail 
to  rewird  iue  labours  of  the  Husband- 
man, (however  ill  directed  they  may 
be)  though  the  summers,  even  here,  are 
found  too  short  to  encourage  the  culti- 
vation of  Indian  corn ;  and  Peaches 
will  scarcely  ripen,  without  sheltering 
walls.  Plums,  Apples,  Pears,  are  like- 
wise much  better  here  than  at  Quebec ; 


,♦ 


HI: 


It:    ' 
4:' 


'i? 


■ff 


S>  1 


I    ■ 


t 

'i'l  LI' 


¥4^ 


232 

and  the  berry  fruits,  particularly  Cur- 
rants, Raspberries,  and  Strawberries, 
Irorn  foreign  stocks,  are  produced  as 
large,  and  some  of  them  as  fine,  as  they 
arc  with  us. — The  cultivated  Goose- 
berry is  much  larger,  the  general  cool- 
ness of  the  summer  favouring  its 
growth,  by  retarding  its  maturity. 

There  is  here  a  Society  of  Florists, 
who  gave  premiums,  whilst  I  was  at 
Montreal,  for  the  finest  specimens  of 
Ranunculuses,  and  Caniations. 

As  many  (weekly)  papers  are  alrea- 
dy published,  both  in  Montreal,  and  also 
at  Quebec,  in  the  English  language,  as 
in  the  French ;  and  it  is  evident  that  the 
former,  will  gain  the  ascendency  ^erc— 
perhaps  at  no  distant  day. 

The  streets  of  business,  and  especial- 
ly the  shops,  have  the  snug  look  of  an 
English  town ;  and  it  was  amusing  to 


233 


k 


ticularly  Cur- 
Strawberries, 
produced  as 
s  fine,  as  they 
vated  Goose- 
general  cool- 
favouring  its 
naturity. 

ty  of  Florists, 

lilst  I  was  at 

specimens  of 

tions. 

Ts  are  alrea- 
;real,  and  also 
language,  as 
[ident  that  the 
idency  ^erc— 


md  especial- 
Ig  look  of  an 
amusing  to 


see  how  exactly  the  Young  Men,  of  any 
figure,  were  in  the  London  cut 

The  British  Officers,  I  am  told,  do 
not  mix  much  in  society,  with  the  Na- 
tives of  Canada ;  yet  Military  manners 
prevail  here,  as  well  as  at  Quebec : 
The  Rabble  flock,  in  crowds,  to  Regi- 
mental parades ;  and  even  Women,  of 
any  appearance,  make  a  point  of  step- 
ping to  a  march. 

Before  I  quit  Montreal,  I  shall  not  do 
justice  to  its  Public  Edifices,  without 
mentioning,  as  a  handsome  Structure, 
the  Government  House,  for  the  admi- 
nistration of  Justice,  &c.  with  the  King's 
Arms,  in  the  pediment,  elaborately 
executed  in  Coades  artificial  stone.  A 
new  Jail  of  appropriate  construction — 
accompanied  by  that  eye-sore  to  Ame- 
rican feelings,  the  Whipping  Post ;  and 
a  Naval  Pillar  (which  has  been  unfa- 

V  2        . 


i 


'ii' 


\^ 


iih 


it)   I 


,V\ 


ipl'.ir 


Hi 


!i  S; 


■  i'  i. 


234 

vourably  placed,  in  front  of  the  latter) 
intended  in  honour  of  Lord  Nelson. 

NELSON'S  PILLAR. 

This  beautiful  Memento  (I  recollect 
nothing  superior  to  it  in  England,  where, 
to  be  sure,  they  are  not  remarkable  for 
Public  Monuments  any  more  than  our- 
selves) stands  upon  an  elevated  Pedes- 
tal, upon  the  front  of  which  is  a  suit- 
able inscription,  in  which  is  not  for- 
gotten the  Hero's  last  "^order,  "  Eng- 
*'  land  expects  every  Man  will  do  his 
•'  duty,"  On  the  two  sides,  in  circular 
compartments,  are  represented,  in  the 
boldest  bas  reliefs  (of  the  composition 
before  mentioned)  the  horrid  scenes  of 
Ships  sinking  to  the  bottom  of  the  deep, 
or  blowing  up  into  the  air,  as  they  oc- 
curred at  the  Nile,  and  off  Trafalgar. 
In  that  of  the  fourth  side  is  represented 
the  Crown  Prince  of  Denmark,  who  i» 
seen  submitting  to  Nelson's  lawless  re- 


■» 
1 


r\,v 


Wi^: 


ryj  i 


23S 


f  the  latter) 
I  Nelson. 

LR. 

(I  recollect 
land,  where, 
narkable  for 
re  than  our- 
ated  Pedes- 
ich  is  a  suit- 
I  is  not  for- 
mer,  "  Eng- 
will  do  his 
in  circular 
nted,  in  the 
composition 
d  scenes  of 
)f  the  deep, 
as  they  oc- 
Trafalgar. 
epresented 
irk,  who  is 
lawless  re- 


I 


quisition,  at  the  moment  when,  it  is 
said,  that  Victory  was  turning  against 
the  Conqueror. 

The  shaft  of  this  Pillar  is  fifty  feet 
high.  Upon  its  capital  stands  the  Ad- 
miral, who  makes,  it  must  be  allowed, 
but  a  very  sorry  figure  in  Statuary,  with 
his  arm  in  a  sling;  but  his  Lordship 
leans,  with  peculiar  propriety,  upon 
the  remains  of  a  broken  mast ;  and  the 
base  of  the  Column  is  a  well  wrought 
cable. 

This  Monument  is  injudiciously 
placed,  in  the  common  Market  place, 
instead  of  the  Place  d'Armes,  or  the 
Parade  upon  the  boulevards ;  at  one 
end  of  which  are  two  very  fine  new 
Houses  of  hewn  stone,  and  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood new  streets  are  laying  out, 
which  will  greatly  modernise  the  town, 
and  connect  it  with  the  adjacent  Sub- 
urbs ;  from  which  it  was  formerly  very 


'  11 


r 


m. 


■'.  I 


IHjl 


t!'  : 


;!) 


i>  I 


1 1. 

■  tiii! 

ml 


I 


236 

inconveniently  disjoined  bj  the  ram- 
parts, which  are  now  dismantled. 

THE  PEASANTRY  OF  CANADA. 

The  Peasantry  in  Canada,  (by  which 
term  I  hope  Lower  Canada  will  be  al- 
ways understood  in  these  sketches) 
that  is  to  say,  the  great  body  of  the 
People,  is  in  a  state  of  ignorance,  but 
little  exceeding  the  simplicity  of  the 
Indian  tribes,  in  their  neighbourhood, 
and  of  poverty  almost  as  little  removed 
from  a  state  of  absolute  want  :  yet 

Patient  of  labour,  with  a  little  pleased, 

they  are  perhaps  as  happy,  as  their 
more  polished  Neighbours;  and  cer- 
tainly they  are  more  harmless,  and  less 
discontented  : 


No  fancied  ills,  no  pride  created  wants, 
Disturb  the  peaceful  current  of  their  days 


ni 
Tl 

m< 


'[•^1 1 


' 


by  the  ram- 
aantled. 

^  CANADA. 

Ja,  (by  which 
3a  will  be  al- 
se  sketches) 
body  of  the 
norance,  but 
•licity  of  the 
ighbourhood, 
ttle  removed 
int  :  yet 

pleased, 

py>  as  their 
i;  and  cer- 
fss,  and  less 


I  wants, 
heir  days 


237 


Relieved  from  the  horrors  of  Military 
conscription,  and  feudal  tyranny;  pin- 
ning their  faith  upon  the  Priest's  sleeve. 
These  simple  People  are  literally  satis- 
fied with  their  daily  bread ;  and  leave  the 
morrow  to  provide  for  itself 

Ho  more— Where  ignorance  is  blisii 

(says  the  Poet)  and  I  shall  not  now  stop 
to  controvert  the  position, 

'Tis  folly  to  be  wise. 

In  point  of  morality  and  devotion, 
the  French  in  Canada  may  be  compar- 
ed to  the  Swiss  and  the  Scotch  in  Eu- 
rope ;  though  far  behind  the  former,  \xi 
industry,  and  the  latter,  in  ingenuity, 
and  enterprise.  Infidelity  is  unknown 
among  them;  and  the  passion  for  Mili- 
tary glory  almost  extinct,  as  well  as  that 
thoughtless  gaiety,  which  distinguishes 
the  French  in  Europe,  no  longer  enli- 


H 


M'    ):, 


il'i 


Pi   •' 


238 

vened  by  the  exhilarating  wines  of  the 
Mother  Country : 

Those  healtliful  cups  which  eheer  but  not  inebriate, 

as  Cowper  elegantly  said  of  the  English 
beverage — tea. 

So  great  is  the  change  of  manners 
and  principles,  which  has  followed,  in 
two  centuries,  an  alteration  in  the  over- 
ruling circumstances  of  climate,  and 
government. 

National  pride,  in  its  proper  sense, 
as  confined  to  the  Country  which  gave 
Us  birth,  is  scarcely  felt  in  Canada; 
where  every  sensation  of  National  glory 
reverts  to  the  forgotten  History  of  a 
distant  land  ;  and  the  Government  that 
is  obeyed,  per  force,  is  foreign  to  the 
People;  and  they  can  have  no  senti- 
ments in  unison  with  the  objects  of  its 
ambition. 


pe 

anJ 
'ties 

Vo{ 
of 


V:    " 


f\\ 


wines  of  the 


U  not  inebritUe, 


f  the  English 


of  manners 
followed,  in 
»  in  the  over- 
climate,  and 


oper  sense, 
which  gave 
in  Canada,' 
itional  glory 
fistory  of  a 
mment  (hat 
reign  to  the 
e  no  senti- 
jects  of  its 


239 

A  Canadian  is  ready  to  admit  the  su- 
periority of  the   American  character ; 
1  and  shows  nothing  of  French  partiali- 
j  ties,  save  in  the  display  of  tlie  Gallic 
Cock,  which  is  perclied  upon  the  spire 
of  every  steeple,  and  upon   the  top  of 
every  cross  ;  together  with  the  sun,  the 
llower   de   luce,   and  other  (degraded) 
emblems    of  the    French    Monarchy; 
which  British  policy  has  wisely  permit- 
ted these  harmless  People  to  retain,  as 
long  as  they  were  content  to  let  go  the 
substance  of  National  Independence ;  and 
grasp — a  shadow. 

Even  in  person  and  countenance  they 
are  perceptibly  altered  from  their  Eu- 
ropean Ancestors  :  The  Canadian  Pea- 
sant is  not  so  tall  as  the  native  French- 
man ;  neither  is  he  so  well  shaped,  or 
so  comely  in  feature,  as  his  Progenitors. 
He  is  also  browner  by  many  degrees 
than  the  Natives  of  France. 


n 


::l 


<,. 


Mi 


It 


i  ' 


''I 

'.  ■    I 


PI' 


:.!■■ 


r  s    ' 


240 

From  this  marked  example,  it  would 
appear,  that  National  peculiarities  may 
be  formed,  by  the  operation  of  imperi- 
ous circumstances,  in  far  less  time  than 
is  required  to  change  the  colour  of  the 
skin,  by  the  influence  of  climate ;  and 
we  need  be  at  no  difficulty  to  admit  the 
gradual  origin  of  the  variety  of  com- 
plexions, in  the  Human  race :  Since  a 
change  of  feature  and  person  can  be  so 
soon  brought  about,  in  a  Colony  of  Eu- 
ropeans, thus  completely  separated  from 
the  Parent  Stock. 

The  French  tongue,  however,  has 
been  very  little  deteriorated  in  Canada. 
The  Peasantry  comiiig  from  different 
Provinces,  left  their  respective  allot- 
ments of  the  "  Patois  de  chez  nous" 
behind  them,  in  the  land  of  their  An- 
cestors ;  and  their  Posterity  now  speak 
but  one  language,  which  is  very  tolera- 
ble French:  though  not  to  be  sure, 
like  the    English  of  America,  as  pure 


and 
the 
ovei 
its  e 

Ai 
Rea< 
velle 
Ills  ( 
timef 
fions 
in  hi 
factur 
Amei 
J 

I  Th 
little 
ear 
eady 
was 
)win! 
[ielde 
(ende 


{■'<•' 


[^;, 


e,  it  would 
siniies  may 
I  of  imperi- 
ls time  than 
lour  of  the 
imate;  and 
o  admit  the 
tv   of  com- 
ce :  Since  a 
m  can  be  so 
)lony  of  Eu- 
iaratedfrom 


>wever,  has 
1  in  Canada. 
)m  different 


241 

and  perfect  as  the  chastest  dialect  ol 
the  Mother  Country  ;  although  spread 
over  an  inhabited  surface  of  ten  times 
its  extent. 

And  here  let  me  warn  the  British 
Reader,  that  whenever  an  English  Tra- 
veller, in  America,  undertakes  to  amuse 
liis  Countrymen,  as  Weld  has  some- 
times done,  with  pretended  conversa- 
tions of  American  Peasants,  delivered 
in  bad  language,  it  is  of  his  own  mami^ 
facture — bad  English  is  not  coined  in  the 
American  Mint. 


I  There  appears  to  have  been  but  very 
ictive  allot-  Blttle  emigration  from  France  since  the 
chez  nous"  tear  1660,  when  the  Province  was  al- 
of  their  An-  ieady  comparatively  well  peopled  ;  and 
y  now  speak  It  was  about  the  same  time,  in  the  fol- 
very  tolera- lowing  century,  that  the  Canadians 
to  be  suretlielded  their  independence  to  the  as- 
ca,  as  pure  pendency  of  the  British  arms;  since 
I  t 


Mi' 


• 


*ti. 


i 


;:■!      i 


1!^ 


r 


"!;' 


J        i 


■1.4 1' 


s;i; 


r;' 


/ 1. 


242 

which  there  has  been  far  more  connex 
ion  and  intercourse  between  France  and 
the  American  Provinces  of  British  ori 
gin,  than  between  that  powerful  nation 
and  her  own  descendants. 

Thus  the  deterioration  of  pristine  |< 
vigour,  that  it  was  possible  for  a  fev  j 
centuries  to  produce,  in  National  cha 
racter,  has  been  in  this  instance  com 
pletely  exemplified. 

In  North  America  a  colonization  ori 
ginally  gradual,  and  progressive,  toge 
ther  with  the  incessant  intercourse 
Commerce  and  curiosity,  has  admitte 
of  so  little  variation  of  National  cha 
racter  and  appearance,  that  the  Engj 
lishman  of  the  United  States  is  noi 
now  to  be  distinguished  in  form  01 
feature — in  temper  or  intellect,  (ex 
cepting  certain  shades  of  differenc 
which  I  shall  not  now  undertake  to  d 


Ion  Of  e 
jstbc 
iofiies 
title  c 
:cnit( 

To 
Hatei 


nore  connex 
iii  France  and 
)f  British  ori 
werful  natior 


n  of  pristiw 
ible  for  a  few 
National  cha 
instance  com 


243 

line)  from  the  Englishman  of  Europe  : 
And  the  two  branches  from  the  Parent 
jsYcwj  may  now  be  considered,  with  infi- 
jiiitely  more  propriety  in  the  light  of 
'flder  and  younger  Brothers,  established 
in  different  countries,  than  in  the  fan- 
cied relationship  of  parent  and  child  ; 
Hvhich,  if  it  was  true  of  our  Ancestors  a 
fmndred  years  ago,  is  no  longer  so,  of 
jthe  two  separate  Races  which  have 
feince  sprung  from  the  same  Parent 
Stock. 


onization  ori 

ressive,  toge 

ntercourse 

has  admitte 

'*Jational  cha 

hat  the  Eng] 

States  is  noi 

d  in  form  oi 

itellect,    (ex 

of  differenc 

ertakc  to  d 


A  hundred  years  hence  ;  when  obsolete 
)re tensions  have  been  forgotten ;  and 
jealousies,  and  prepossessions,  shall  be  no 
longer  remembered ;  it  will  be  the  proud- 
jst  boast  of  Britain,  that  she  planted  the  Co- 
lonies of  North  America  :  and  the  dearest 
title  of  the  United  States,  that  their  Pro- 
genitors came  from  Old  England. 

To  an   American   from  the    United 
"States,  the  smallness  of  towns  so  noted, 


ill  -^    :    I    ' 


'..( 


'    f'    1 


( 


, 


if    I 


n 

'i'l 

) 

'ill,' 


r 


'  1 


\]':      t        ■ 


.  \ 


m 


■  1 ' 


244 

and  so  long  established  as  Quebec,  and 
Montreal,  is  inconceivable,  and  scarce- 
ly credible  to  the  observer.  I  could 
myself  with  difficulty  believe,  that  the 
population  of  the  latter  is  now  estimated 
at  but  fifteen  thousand,  of  the  former,  a 
no  more  than  twelve;  numbers,  whicli 
might  have  been  roughly  computed  bj 
the  English,  at  the  time  of  the  Conquest 
Still  less  can  we  imagine  how  the  po 
pulation  of  the  Country,  which  at  thai 
period,  was  estimated  at  seventy  oi 
eighty  thousand,  should  have  little  more 
than  doubled  itself  since,  although  sixtj 
years  have  nearly  elapsed  ;  a  perioi 
in  which  the  standing  population  of  thf 
United  States  has  more  than  trebled  it 
self.  I  speak  not  of  the  rapid  reduplica 
tion  of  the  New  States,  which  arise 
from  emigration,  and  takes  place  at  thi 
expense  of  the  Old. 


In  the  year  1706,  the  people  of  Nt« 
France  were  estimated    at    thirty  thou 

11 


rl 


as  Quebec,  and 

)le,  and  scarce 

jrver.     I  could 

ilieve,  that  the 

>  now  estimated 

>f  the  former,  a 

lumbers,  vvhicli 

y  computed  bj 

f  the  Conquest 

rie  how  the  po 

which  at  that 

at  seventy   oi 

lave  little  more 

,  although  sixt] 

ed  ;    a   perioi 

3ulation  of  tin 

lan  trebled  it|l 

pid  red u plica 

which   arise 

es  place  at  tin 


)eople  of  Nev 
it    thirty  thou 


245 

sand.  At  the  Conquest,  fifty-five  yeart^ 
afterward,  they  were  variously  computed 
at  seventy,  and  at  ninety,  thousand  Souls. 
If  the  latter  was  the  true  number  (which 
I  very  much  doubt)  they  can  have  little 
more  than  doubled  since  :  for  on  the 
peace  of  1783  an  account  of  them  was 
taken,  by  order  of  the  Government ;  and 
the  whole  amount,  including  the  English, 
with  the  French,  was  only  one  hundred 
and  thirteen  thousand.  There  were  at 
the  same  time  ten  thousand  Loyalists  es- 
tablished in  Upper  Canada. 

If  therefore  the  French  Stock  has 
doubled  itself,  since  the  year  1760,  it  is 
as  much  as  can  be  inferred,  from  the  data 
given  above.  Taking  the  mean  number 
(80)  for  a  basis,  it's  double  will  be  a  hun- 
dred and  sixty  thousand,  which  is  proba- 
bly not  far  from  the  truth :  for  I  cannot 
adopt  the  flattering  estimate  of  common 
computation,  by  which  the  present  Inhabi- 
tants of  Lower  Canada  are  raised  to  the 

v  2 


9 


idt 


i 


:M 


r 


•   S 


U,y\y 


I 

r ' 


li 


246 

suppositious  amount  of  two  hundred  aiid 
fiftj  thousand.     [See  the  Appendix  No. 

II.] 

There  are  many  circumstances,  in 
Canada,  which  control  the  energies  of 
life;  beside  occasional  scarcity,  and  the 
long  absence  of  the  Voyageurs ;  prevent- 
ing the  natural  tendency  of  new  Colonies 
to  increase  and  multiply » 

The  extreme  heats  of  the  climate, 
though  not  lasting,  enervate  the  body ;  and 
its  extreme  cold  chills  the  blood,  and  has  a 
benumbing  effect  upon  the  powers  of  the 
mind.  Frequent  Festivals,  or  Holidays, 
introduce  habits  of  idleness,  and  relaxa- 
tion. The  lands  are  held  by  Military 
tenure.  The  Occupants  are  liable  to  the 
teazing  claim  of  quitrents,  and  the  un- 
seasonable exaction  of  Military  service. 
At  every  transfer  of  property  the  new 
Purchaser  is  boutid  to  pay  one-fifth  to  the 
Seigneur,  and  in  case  of  war  the   land 


Mi 

k 


u 


m 


247 


undred  and 
pendix  No. 


stances,  in 
energies  of 
ty,  and  the 
s;  prevent- 
jw  Colonies 


le    climate, 

2  body ;  and 

1,  and  has  a 

vers  of  the 

Holidays, 

nd  relaxa- 

y   Military 

able  to  the 

d  the  un- 

ry  service. 

the  new 

Ififth  to  the 

the   land 


holder  is  liable  to  serve  without  pay.  In 
short,  under  the  Ancien  Regime^  every 
Peasant  was  a  Soldier,  and  every  Seigneur 
an  Officer;  and  although  the  Natives  are 
now  excluded  from  the  King's  Troops, 
the  Creoles  are  enrolled  in  the  Militia 
and  are  still  called  out,  occasionally, 
without  fee  or  reward.  Accordingly  the 
frequent  may-poles,  to  be  observed  on 
the  road  sides,  do  not  mark,  as  at  first  sight 
I  fondly  imagined  they  might  have  done, 
the  circle  of  a  village  dance,  where  the 
Sons  and  Daughters  of  Poverty  might 
forget  their  wants,  in  their  enjoyments ; 
but  the  superintendence  of  a  Serjeant,  or 
a  Captain  of  Militia,  as  the  rallying  point 
of  duty,  in  cases  of  alarm.* 


'  By  the  ancient  custom  of  Canada,  Lands  en  fitf,  or 
tn  rotiire,  were  held  immediately  from  ihe  king,  on  condi- 
tion of  rendering  fealty  and  homage,  upon  every  accession 
to  the  Seignorial  property,  and  in  the  event  of  a  transfer, 
by  sale,  or  otherwise,  except  in  the  line  of  hereditary  suc- 
f  cession,  they  were  subject  to  the  payment  of  a  quint  (one- 
fifth)  of  the  purchase  money. 

The  Tenauciers,  or  Jiolders  of  lands,  en  rolure,  were  sub- 


l.« 


Ill' 


■'i 


J: 


■  V  i  1(1 

Mill' 


'I     , 


* .  i 


P'  II 

I!  ^  1 1 


53  i' 


\}i'  I 


ijl  '■? 


^248 

Most  of  those  who  cuhivate  tlie  soil 
can  neither  read  nor  write,  of  course  they 
know  nothinor  of  the  advantaoces  of  com- 
posts,  or  the  rotation  of  crops ;  by  which 
the  moans  of  hfe  are  so  cheaply  multipli- 
ed by  intelligent  Agriculturists.  And 
before  Quebec  was  taken  by  the  English, 
all  the  manure  produced  in  its  stables  was 
regularly  thrown  into  the  river. 

ject  to  the  payment  of  a  quitrent,  which  was  generally  ac' 
coinpanieti  with  some  trifling  gratuity,  such  as,  a  pair  of 
fowls,  or  a  bushel  of  wheat.  They  were  also  bound  to 
grind  their  corn  at  the  Moulin  bamh  or  the  Lord's  mill, 
where  one-fourteenth  part  is  taken  by  way  of  raouture,  or 
toll,  for  grinding  ;  likewise  to  repair  highways,  and  to 
open  new  roads,  when  directed  so  to  do,  by  the  Grand 
Voyeur,  or  Supervisor  of  the  District. 

The  Lords  were  also  entitled  to  a  tithe  of  the  riih 
caught  within  their  domains,  and  might  fell  timber  where' 
ver  they  chose,  for  necessary  purposes. 

Lands  held  by  Romiin  Catholics,  are  farther  subject  to 
the  payment,  to  the  Curates,  of  the  twenty-si.xth  part  of  all 
grain  produced  upon  them  ;  also  to  occasional  assessmnn!i 
for  building  and  repairing  Churches,  parsonage  houses,  and 
other  church  occasions. 

The  remainder  of  the  located  lands  are  held  in  free  anil 
common  soccage,  from  which  is  made  a  rc-,ervalion  of  two 
sevenths,  one  of  whicli  is  nppropriat(»J  to  the  Crown,  aud 
the  other  to  the  maintenance  of  the  Protestant  Clergy. 


249 


sate  the  soil 
if  course  they 
agfes  of  com- 
3s ;  by  which 
iply  multipli- 
turists.  And 
r  the  English, 
ts  stables  was 
ver. 

1  was  generally  ac- 
such  as,  a  pair  of 
ere  also  bound  lo 
ir  the  Lord's  mill, 
vay  of  mouture,  or 
highways,  and  to 
do,  by  the  Grand 

tithe  of  the  Fish 
fell  timber  wheit' 

farther  subject  to 
nty-sixth  part  of  a! 
lasional  assessmnnii 
sonage  houses,  and 

are  held  in  free  and 

I  reservation  of  twfr 

to  the  Crown,  aui 

>testant  Clergy. 


Another  check  to  population  remains  io 
be  mentioned  (though  last^  not  least.)  It  is 
the  law  of  celibacy  to  which  the  Priests 
and  Nuns  are  prescriptively  subjected; 
and  to  whose  mortifying  restrictions,  how- 
ever unnatural,  there  is  no  reason  to 
doubt  their  scrupulous  conformity. 

HISTORY   OF  CANADA. 

If  I  have  said  little  of  the  early  history 
of  Canada,  it  is  because  little  is  to  be  said ; 
yet  the  Reader  of  these  loose  hints  may  be 
curious  to  know,  when  the  first  Settle- 
ments took  place ;  and  under  what  auspi- 
ces they  were  established.  I  shall  briefly 
transcribe  the  meagre  Historians  of 
Canada ;  I  say  meagre^  in  point  of  facts  ; 
for  both  La  Hontan,  and  Charlevoix  are 
insufferably  verbose ;  and  the  ponderous 
Quartos  of  the  latter,  may  be  called  any 
thing  but  meagre. 

The  Island  of  Newfoundland,  that  in- 
hospitable  waste   of   naked   rocks,  and 


=^  ! 


J' 

r;! 

!;   * 
I 


■';l!   I.  > 

/H  I. 


!,!:■ 


•I ; 


['  ! 


1 


I 


250 

barren  mountains,  which  Hes  at  the  mouth 
of  the  River  St.  Lawrence,  and  which  is 
supposed,  notwithstanding  its  immense 
extent,  to  have  never  had  any  aboriginal 
Inhabitants;  none  but  wandering  Eski- 
maux  from  the  neighbouring  Coast  of 
Labrador  having  ever  been  observed 
there ;  was  first  discovered  by  John  Ca- 
bot, a  Venetian  Adventurer,  under  the 
patronage  of  Henry  VH.  of  England.  But 
no  advantage  whatever  was  derived  from 
this  discovery,  until  after  the  lapse  of 
half  a  century,  when  the  French  Naviga- 
tors began  to  frequent  these  seas  for  Fish ; 
and  the  two  Nations  long  enjoyed,  with- 
out molestation  from  each  other,  the  pri- 
vilege of  drying  Cod  on  the  shores  of 
this  Island,  by  prudently  occupying  the  one 
the  southern  and  northern — and  the  other 
only  the  Eastern  coast.* 


*  The    Banks  of  Newfoundland,  so  called,  are  slrlctlj 

speaking,  n  submarine  mountain,  of  gre;il  extent,  no  where 

covered  with  less  than  twenty  fathom  of  water,  and  varying 

from  that  depth  to  sixty  and  upwards.     It  is  ascertained, 

by  ?oundings,  that  thfre  are  vast  quantities  of  shells,  npoi* 


i 


it  the  mouth 
ncl  which  is 
ts  imm(3nse 
y  aboriginal 
ering  Eski- 
ig  Coast  of 
n  observed 
by  John  Ca- 
,  under  the 
ijland.  But 
erived  from 
le  lapse  of 
ich  Naviga- 
as  for  Fish ; 
Qjed,  with- 
ler,  the  pri- 
3  shores  of 
j^ing  the  one 
id  the  other 


ed,  are  strlcllj 
xtcnt,  no  where 
er,  and  varying 
is  ascertained, 
of  shells,  upoti 


251 

It  was  in  1523  that  Francis  F.  king  of 
France,  commissioned  John  Verazzani,  a 
Florentine,  then  in  his  service,  to  make 
discoveries  (which  were  then  considered 
in  the  same  light  as  Conquests)  in  Ameri- 
ca. He  sailed  from  Dieppe,  and  returned 
to  Dieppe  the  same  year  ;  and  this  is  all 
that  is  now  known  of  his  first  voyage. — 
In  1 525,  however,  he  set  sail  again,  rang- 
ed the  Coast  of  America,  from  South  to 
North;  and,  having  touched  at  New- 
foundland, returned  as  before.  He  now 
prepared  to  plant  a  Colony  in  North 
America;  and  sailed  from  France  for 
that  purpose;  but  was  never  afterward 
heard  of. 

these  banks,  and  immense  multitudes  of  fish,  of  various 
sizes,  which  serve  for  nourishment  to  the  Cod,  which  is  so 
much  prized  in  Europe.  This,  it  seems,  is  one  of  the  most 
voracious  of  Fish.  Both  glass  and  iron  are  often  found  in 
its  stomach,  which,  by  the  provision  of  nature,  has  a  power 
of  inverting  itself,  and  thus  disgorging  its  indigestible  con- 
tents. Their  number  is  apparently  inexhaustible,  seeing 
that  two  or  three  hundred  vessels  have  been  annually 
freighted  with  them,  for  the  last  three  centuries,  Avithout 
any  apparent  diminution. 


I. ' 


!f> 


<..)■■ 


I 


.  \ 


2.V2 

The  River  St.  Lawrence,  one  of  the 
Jargost  bodies  of  froBh  water  on  the  sur- 
face of  the  Globe,  received  its  name 
from  Jacqwes  Caktier,  who,  in  the  year 
l.');i5,  had  ascended  the  River,  as  far 
as  the  |)lace  where  Montreal  now 
stands,  in  the  vain  hope  of  finding  a 
nearer  passage  to  China ;  tlie  fruitless 
research  which  so  long  engrossed  the 
attention  of  European  Navigators;  with 
a  small  ship  or  two,  from  St.  Maloes,  a 
sea  port  of  France,  upon  the  coast  of 
Brittany. 


'  (i 


!i 


That  magnificent  monarch,  Francis  I. 
dtill  occupied  the  throne  of  France  ; 
but  that  Prince  being  engaged,  at  liome, 
in  perpetual  conflicts,  with  his  formida- 
ble Rival,  Charles  V.  of  Spain,  from 
this  period,  until  the  beginning  of  the 
following  century,  no  ellectual  attempts 
were  made,  by  Europeans,  to  form  a 
settlement  in  Canada. 


I'j 


one  of  the 
'  on  the  8ur- 
[)d  its  name 
,  in  tlic  year 
liver,  as  far 
>ntreal  now 
Df  fniiling  a 
the  fruitless 
igrossed  the 
gators ;  with 
t.  Maloes,  a 
the  coast  of 


,  Francis  1. 
of  France : 
ed,  at  liome, 
lis  formida- 
pain,  from 
ling  of  the 
Lial  attempts 
to  form   a 


i53 

When  Jacques  Carlicr  arrived  at  the 
island  called  by  him  Montreal,  from  the 
singular  mountain  which  there  rises, 
in  solitary  majesty,  over  the  present 
Town;  they  found  there  an  Indian  vil- 
lage, or  rather,  a  fortilied  town ;  since 
the  fifty  cahins,  of  which  it  was  com- 
posed, were  surrounded  by  a  triple  row 
of  palisades.  It  was  called  Hochelaga, 
and  it  was  under  the  command  of  a 
Chief,  whose  name  has  not  been  pre- 
served, so  far  as  I  know. 

Although  Jacques  Cartier  appears  to 
have  been  prevented,  either  by  discour- 
agement, or  inability,  from  returning  to 
take  possession  of  Montreal ;  yet  in  1541 
Francis  de  la  Roque,  Seigneur  de  Ro- 
iberval,  a  Nobleman  of  Picardy,  having 
Ven  endowed  by  the  King  with  t!.e 
unlimited  powers  of  Viceroy  of  Cana- 
da, set  sail,  with  no  fewer  than  five 
small  vessels,  for  New  France ;  where 
he  planted   a  Colony,  at  the  head  of 

w 


254 


i:^  i 


Jr' 


i'. 


il 


'!i 


which  he  placed  Cartier,  wlio  had  ac!- 
companied  him ;  and  went  back  to 
France  to  prosecute  the  interests  of  the 
new  settlement  at  Court. 

On  his  returning  the  next  year,  with 
fresh  recruits,  he  met,  opportunely,  his 
new  Colonists, off  Newfoundland,  return- 
ing home,  in  despair  of  relief.  He 
readily  persuaded  them  to  return ;  and 
this  enterprising  nobleman  made  after- 
vard  several  other  voyages,  in  prosecu- 
tion of  his  favourite  settlement,  before 
the  last  unfortunate  embarkation,  in 
1549;  when  he  was  lost,  at  sea;  upon 
which  the  Colony  was  broken  up ;  and 
with  this  unfortunate  event  terminated 
the  first  attempts  at  colonization  upon 
the  river  St.  Lawrence. 

The  protestants  of  France,  unlike 
those  of  England,  appear  to  have  been 
little  disposed,  in  this  age,  to  expatriate 
themselves,  for  the  sake  of  the  free  ex- 


I't 


iynri 


vho  had  aci- 
ni back  to 
;erests  of  the 


tt  year,  with 
lortunely,  his 
Hand,  return- 
relief.     He 
return ;  and 
\  made  after- 
3,  in  prosecu- 
nent,  before 
arkation,    in 
t  sea ;  upon 
ien  up;  and 
t  terminated 
zation  upon 


ercise  of  their  rehgion :  being  headed 
at  home  by  Men  of  quality,  and  influence, 
who  for  a  long  time  maintained  a  suc- 
cessful stand  against  the  power  of  the 
Crown,  and  the  intolerance  of  the 
Clergy.  Yet  about  this  time  Coligni, 
then  admiral  of  France,  and  afterward 
remarkable  for  suffering  martyrdom  in 
the  tumultuous  massacre  of  St.  Barthol- 
omew ;  with  the  permission  of  Charles 
IX,  over  whose  weak  mind  he  appears  to 
have  enjoyed  great  influence,  notwith- 
standing his  religion,  attempted  a  settle- 
ment in  Florida;  for  the  retreat  of  the 
Calvinists,  or  Hugonots  of  France.  But 
these  unfortunate  Emigrants  were  not 
long  afterward  indiscriminately  murder- 
ed, by  the  Spaniards,  under  the  express 
directions  of  the  gloomy  tyrant,  Philip  II. 


mce,  unlike 
o  have  been 
o  expatriate 
the  free  ex- 


In  the  year  1598,  the  Marquis  de  la 
Roche,  a  Nobleman  of  Brittany,  was 
again  commissioned  as  Viceroy.  His 
Colonists     were     Convicts     from     the 


■     If; 


^i 


a'J 


i^l 


1 :'. 


■\  s 


I!   :!i 

\  I' ! 


tU 


256 

French  prisons;  and  he  left  them  be- 
hind, to  perish  upon  the  isle  of  Sable; 
being  prevented  from  returning  to  their 
relief  by  untoward  circumstances;  in 
consequence  of  which,  he  is  said  to  have 
died  of  grief. 

Other  attempts  to  people  Canada, 
continued  to  be  made,  from  time  to 
time ;  but  they  were  all  equally  unsuc- 
cessful. 

Champlain  (the  future  Father  of  the 
Colony)  came  over,  for  the  first  time, 
in  1603;  and  returned  to  France  the 
same  year.  But  in  1604,  the  Sieur  de 
Monts,  a  Calvinist,  obtained  permission 
from  Henry  IV.  to  exercise  his  religion 
in  America ;  obliging  himself,  oddly 
enough,  to  promote  the  Catholic  faith 
among  the  Savages.  His  object  was 
the  Peltries  of  Canada,  which  had 
now  become  an  important  branch  of 
commerce. 


1Z( 

th( 
nc 
til 


m 


eft  them  bc- 
>le  of  Sable; 
rning  to  their 
nstances ;  in 
3  said  to  have 


I 


pie  Canada, 
from  time  to 
[jually  unsuc- 


Father  of  the 

le  first  time, 

France  the 

le  Sieur  de 

permission 

his  religion 

mself,  oddly 

atholic  faith 

object  was 

which    had 

branch  of 


257 

He  established  hi^  company  upon 
the  coast  of  Acadie,  kiow  Nova  Scotia, 
where  he  found  a  rich  soil,  covered 
with  gigantic  woods,  and  abounding 
with  game  of  every  description. 

It  was  in  the  year  1608  that  Samuel 
Je  Cham  plain,  an  enterprising  and  intel- 
ligent Merchant,  of  the  town  of  Dieppe, 
in  Normandy,  who  had  been  for  some 
years  engaged  in  the  above  mentioned 
traffic  of  Furs,  resolved  upon  establish^ 
ing  himself,  permanently,  in  the  New 
World. 

Henry  IV,  the  Prince  so  long  idol- 
ized in  France,  as  the  only  favourite  of 
the  People,  in  a  long  line  of  Sovereigns, 
now  swayed  the  sceptre,  in  his  na- 
tive Country ;  but  it  does  not  -appe  ar 
that  that  easy,  and  amiable.  Monarch, 
gave  himself  any  concern  about  the 
claims  of  his  crown,  upon  the  unknown 
regions  of  the  North.     The  kingdoms 

w  2 


t   ! 


-I 


2.58 

of  Spain  and  Portugal  had  been  fortu- 
nate in  their  American  Acquisitions. 
They  had  discovered  mines  of  gold  and 
silver  sufficient  to  tempt  their  cupidity, 
across  half  the  globe:  but  even  Eng- 
land had  not  yet  established  Colonies, 
for  the  sake  of  Commerce ;  and  it  is  not 
to  be  wondered  at,  that  the  French, 
who  despise  the  useful,  but  \  .iOstenta- 
tious  pursuits  of  trade,  in  compari- 
son of  the  fancied  glories  of  war  and 
conquest,  should  see  nothing  attractive 
in  a  country,  which  opened  to  them  no 
prospects  but  those  of  honest,  and  in- 
dustrious thrift. 


If 


I*    ( 


It 


When  Champlain  surveyed  the  banks 
of  the  Great  River,  for  the  choice  of  a 
suitable  situation,  for  his  infant  Colony, 
it  is  asserted,  upon  the  authority  of  tra- 
dition, that  when  they  came  in  sight  of 
the  lofty  Promontory,  that  reared  its 
head  between  the  two  rivers,  St.  Law- 
rence and  St.  Charles,  some  of  his  At- 
tendants cried  out,  at  the  first  sight  of 


iti 


I  been  fortu- 
Acquisitions. 
s  of  gold  and 
eir  cupidity, 
t  even  Eng- 
ed  Colonies, 
and  it  is  not 
the  French, 
it  1  ..ostenta- 
in    compari- 

of  war  and 
ig  attractive 

to  them  no 
»est,  and  in- 


?d  the  banks 
choice  of  a 
^ant  Colony, 
ority  of  tra- 
3  in  sight  of 
reared  its 
fs,  St.  Law- 
e  of  his  At- 
irst  sight  of 


259 

this  abrupt,  and  imposing  eminence, 
Quel  bee !  and  the  bold  Adventurer  is 
said  to  have  immediately  adopted  this 
exclamation,  in  his  native  tongue,  as  the 
future  name  of  his  projected  town. 

No  later  than  the  next  year  we  find 
Champlain,  under  the  romantic  notions 
of  hQnour,  which  then  prevailed,  in 
Europe,  imprudently  engaged  in  an  In- 
dian war.  He  found  the  Algonquins  of 
the  vicinity  of  Quebec,  and  the  Hurons 
of  the  fertile  Island  since  named  Mon- 
treal, at  war  (according  to  the  immemo- 
rial custom  of  neighbouring  Savages,) 
with  the  Iroquois,  a  powerful  confede- 
ration on  the  western  border  of  the 
present  States  of  PSew-York,  and  Penn- 
sylvania. 

The  Indians  of  North  America,  a 
generous,  and  intelligent.  Race  of  Men, 
would  seem  to  have  required  the  excite- 
ment of  war  and  bloodshed,  in   default 


il 


!       '' 


% 


>J: 


I     [ 


260 

of  the  active  pursuits,  and  ingenious  occu- 
pations, of  civilized  life,  to  preserve  them 
from  sinking  into  the  torpidity  of  indo- 
lence ;  rather  than  for  the  indulgence  of 
the  brutal  passions  of  anger  and  revenge. 
Can  the  European  Sophist  assign  as 
plausible  a  reason  for  the  frequency  of 
wars,  among  civilized  Nations  ?  Much 
less  among  professing  Christians — fight- 
ing under  the  same  banner — professing 
to  obey  the  same  spiritual  Commander  ? 
Since  the  plea  of  aggression  can  never 
be  good,  on  both  sides;  and  even  in 
defensive  wars,  which  are  mostly  held 
to  be  justifiable,  on  the  principle  of  ne- 
cessity  ;  that  system  (no  less  prudent 
than  humane,  I  refer  to  universal  expe- 
rience) is  sure  to  be  abandoned,  with  all 
its  advantages.,  as  soon  as  opportunities 
occur  for  retaliation,  or  reprisal. 

In  the  'spring  of  1609  he  headed  a  large 
Party  of  the  Sava^jes  (the  name  seems  to 
be   now   not  unappropriate)   who   were 


t  •  ri 


enious  occu- 
cserve  them 
ity  of  indo- 
dulgence  of 
nd  revenge, 
assign    as 
equency    of 
ns  ?    Much 
lans — fight- 
— Professing 
)mmander  ? 
I  can  never 
id    even   in 
lostly    held 
?iple  of  nc- 
3s    prudent 
ersal  expe- 
led,  with  all 
sportunities 
sal. 

ded  a  large 
le  seems  to 
who   were 


261 

going  against  the  Iroquois,  upon  the  great 
Lake,  to  which  the  French  Adventurer, 
then  gave  his  own  name.  They  penetrat- 
ed into  the  lake,  by  the  river  since  called 
the  Sorel ;  and  Champlain  remarked  that 
the  fertile  Islands  of  the  Lake  were  full 
of  Roebucks,  Deer,  Elks,  and  other  wild 
animals,  particularly  Beavers,  who  abso- 
lutely swarmad  in  those  unfrequented 
retreats,  wherein  they  had  never  been  dis- 
turbed by  the  restless  avarice  of  Man. 

The  two  Parties  met,  accidentally, 
upon  the  Lake  ;  but  it  seems  the  Indians 
of  America  were  not  accustomed  to  fight 
on  the  water;  though  they  were  such 
perfect  masters  of  the  paddle,  that  the 
Descendants  of  the  most  polished  Nation 
in  Europe,  have  never  yet  made  any  im- 
provement upon  their  canoes  for  river 
navigation. 

They  landed,  upon  this  occasion,  on  the 
Eastern  shore,  where  (hey  fought  with^ 


Ti 


I    if 


tif 


.■1 


.      < 


262 

bows  and  arrows,  the  only  missile  wea- 
pons of  wMch  they  were  then  possessed. 
The  French  fusees  soon  decided  the  for- 
tune of  the  day ;  and  the  Iroquois  fled, 
with  terror,  after  a  few  discharges  ;  which 
were  accompanied  with  the  loss  of  many 
of  their  Leaders,  cut  down  by  the  unerring 
aim  of  the  European  rifle. 

Only  two  years  afterward  Champlain 
went  again,  on  the  same  idle  expedition  ; 
now  soothing  his  conscience  with  the  fond 
imagination,  that  it  might  be  a  means  of 
spreading  the  knowledge  of  the  cross ; 
and  procuring  the  future  establishment  of 
a  permanent  peace.  The  Algonquins,  or 
rather  the  French,  for  the  victory  was 
gained  by  their  fire  arms,  were  now  again 
victorious. 

In  1615,  "  Like  a  true  knight  errant 
"  of  the  woods  and  lakes,"  says  Char- 
levoix, (from  whose  authority  I  derive 
the  ancient  history  of  Canada)  Cham' 


r  oj 
ti 


263 


missile  wea- 
3n  possessed. 
;ided  the  for- 
roquois  fled, 
irges ;  which 
loss  of  many 
the  unerring 


d  Champlain 
J  expedition ; 
with  the  fond 
B  a  means  of 
f  the  cross ; 
bhshment  of 
gonquins,  or 
victory  was 
re  now  again 


night  errant 
says  Char- 
ity I  derive 
ada)  Cham- 


plain  was  inconsiderate  enough  to  make 
a  third  of  these  marauding  expedi- 
tions, to  please  his  Savage  Neighbours, 
the  Hurons  of  Hochelaga.  He  now 
received  several  wounds  from  the  Iro- 
quois ;  who  had  by  this  time  recovered 
from  their  surprise,  at  the  novel  instru- 
ments of  warfare,  adopted  by  their 
enemies ;  and  the  Hurons  retreated, 
with  great  loss;  carrying  off  their  wound- 
ed, in  a  sort  of  wicker  baskets,  con- 
structed for  that  purpose. 

Only  two  years  after  this,  so  little 
popularity  had  Champlain  gained  among 
his  more  immediate  Neighbours,  by  his 
imprudent  courtesy,  these  same  Allies  of 
his  had  plotted  to  rid  themselves  of  the 
New  Comers  ;  and  the  timely  discovery 
of  the  plot,  alone  prevented  its  execu- 
tion. 

Thus  was  the  Colony  of  New  France 
immereed  in  ruinous  contests,  with  the 


) 


"1 

'  i 


n> 


jl 

Hi 


264 

Natives,  from  its  very   first  establish- 
ment; and  we  need  look  no  farther  to 
account  for  its  retarded  progress,  and 
protracted   population,  at   the   end  of 
half  a  century. 

But,  in  justice  to  the  Indians  of  North 
America,  let  it  never  be  forgotten,  that 
they  every  where  received  the  New 
Comers,  with  open  arms ;  and,  while 
they  conducted  themselves  peaceably, 
entertained  no  ideas  of  repulsing,  much 
less  of  exterminating  the  Intruders : 

Accordingly  when  William  Penn  laid 
the  foundation  of  his  Colony,  in  peace 
and  friendship;  the  ow/^  treaty,  it  has 
been  wittily  observed  by  Voltaire,  that 
was  not  ratified  by  an  oath^  and  that  never 
was  broken  ;  a  Peace  of  eighty  years  was 
the  happy  consequence:  and  when  it 
was  at  length  infringed,  in  the  prosecu- 
tion of  European  quarrels,  the  peace- 
ful Followers  of  Penn  withdrew  from  a 


i 


;!l 


2tir, 


t  esiablish- 
0  farther  to 


ogres 


s^? 


and 


the  end  of 


ins  of  North 
gotten,  that 
d  the  New 
and,  while 
peaceably, 
ilsing,  much 
truders : 

n  Penn  laid 
ly,  in  peace 
aty,  it  has 
Dltaire,  that 
d  that  never 
y  years  was 
id  when  it 
\e  prosecu- 
the  peace- 
rew  from  a 


Government,  which  could  no  longer  be 
administered,  without  the  use  of  the 
sword. 

In  the  year  1620,  the  Marshall  do 
Montmorency  purchased  the  Viceroy- 
alty  of  New  France,  of  his  brother-in- 
law,  the  Prince  of  Conde,  (only  brother 
to  Lewis  XIII.)  who  had  caused  himself 
to  be  invested  with  the  proud  title  of 
Viceroy  of  New  France  ;  apparently 
without  the  least  intention  of  interesting 
himself  in  the  affairs  of  the  Colony. 

The  Marshall  appears  to  have  slight- 
ed the  bauble,  as  soon  as  it  had  grati- 
fied his  vanity,  parting  with  it  in  1(523, 
to  his  nephew  Henry  de  Levi,  Duke  of 
Ventadour,  in  the  same  ignoble  man- 
ner in  which  he  had  acquired  it.  From 
the  surname  of  this  Nobleman,  it  will 
be  remarked,  comes  the  name  of  Point 
Levi.    It  is,  I  believe,  the  only  memento 


I 


Ml 


■  I 


1?^ 


il;;! 


266 

of  his  administration  thar    ai;  now  be 
traced  in  Canada. 


In  the  next  year  (1624)  the  power- 
ful league  of  the  Iroquois,  made  a 
general  attack  upon  the  French  Settle- 
ments, in  the  hope  of  exterminating  the 
obnoxious  Intruders  :  but  they  were 
repulsed,  with  great  slaughter. 

The  Duke  de  Ventadour  was  a  De- 
votee of  the  fashion  of  the  times, 
(Charles  V.  had  but  a  little  before  strove, 
in  vain,  to  shroud  his  royal  temples  in  the 
cowl  of  a  monk,  and  to  bury  imperial 
solicitudes  in  the  oblivion  of  a  cloister.) 
He  only  wished  for  the  Viceroyalty  of 
Canada,  as  a  means  of  facilitating  his 
views  for  the  conversion  of  the  Savages : 
for  which  purpose  he  engaged  the  Je- 
suits, that  sect  of  the  Catholic  Church 
which  was,  at  its  first  institution,  remark- 
able for  application,  zeal,  and  talent; 
so  many  of  w  hose  Members,  apparently 


«  ,1 


ak;  now  be 


)  the  power- 
ois,  made  a 
rench  Settle- 
*minatii)g  the 
t  they  were 
iter. 

p  was  a  De- 
the  times, 
)efore  strove, 
emplesin  the 
ury  imperial 
►f  a  cloister.) 
ceroyalty  of 
cilitating  his 
[lie  Savaffes : 
aged  the  Je- 
lolic  Church 
tion,  remark- 
f  and  talent; 
,  apparently 


267 

u   denying  the  honours,  the  interests,  and 
the   pleasures  of  this  life,  were   after- 
wards selected,   by  the    Sovereigns   of 
Europe,  as   their  Prime   Ministers,  or 
bosom  Counsellors. 

In  1625  (1  mark  the  epoch,  with  ex- 
actness, because  I  consider  it  as  a  date 
of  the  first  importance,  in  the  history 
of  Canada)  the  Duke  sent  over  three 
Fathers  and  two  Brethren,  of  that  dis- 
tinguished order.* 

During  all  this  time,  viz.  from  1608 
to  the  period  of  the  arrival  of  the  Je- 
suits, Champlain  appears  to  have  rarely 
remained  above  one,  two,  or  at  most, 
three  years,  at  a  time,  in  America,  al- 

"  When  tlie  possessions  of  the  Jesuits  fell  to  the  British 
Crown,  a  few  years  since,  oq  the  demise  of  the  last  incum- 
bent, (for  the  Jesuits  in  Canada  were  protected  from  the  ge- 
neral proscription  which  awaited  them  in  Europe)  they 
were  valued  at  an  income  of  ten  thousand  pounds  sterling 
a  year.  The  whole  was  appropriated  by  the  British  nation, 
with  its  usual  mnnificence.  to  the  establishment  of  Pttbli<* 
Schools. 


f« 


'i 


n 


i  ■ 


.  I 


Ml 


268 

tJiougli  the  affairs  of  the  Colony  always 
went  ill  in  his  absence. 

The  next  year,  however,  (1626) 
tliree  more  Jesuits  arrived  from  France, 
with  a  number  of  industrious  mechan- 
ics ;  and  now,  says  Charlevoix,  "  Que- 
"  bee  began  to  assume  the  appearance 
"  of  a  town :  for  till  then  it  had  been 
"  but  a  fortified  trading  house,  and  it 
"  was  not  considered,  at  home,  in  any 
^'  other  light." 

In  1627,  another  form  was  given  to 
the  government  of  New  France,  by 
Cardinal  Richelieu ;  the  Duke  de  Ven- 
tadour  gave  up  his  Viceroyalty,  and  the 
affairs  of  Canada  were  afterward  ma- 
naged by  a  Company  of  Merchants, 
with  the  Cardinal  at  their  head  ;  until  the 
next  wars  between  France  and  England, 
and  the  clashing  interests  of  their  re- 
spective Colonies,  rendered  a  militarv 
Commander  indispensable. 


i 


f\i 


269 


>lony  always 


ver,  (1626) 
rom  France, 
►us  mechan- 
/oix,  "  Que- 
appearance 
it  had  been 
ouse,  and  it 
lome,  in  any 


as  gii^en  to 
France,  by 
jke  de  Ven- 
ilty,  and  the 
erward  ma- 
Merchants, 
ad  ;  until  the 
nd  England, 
of  their  re- 
i  a  military 


The  first  Missionaries,  in  Canada, 
appear  to  have  been  men  of  eminent 
piety,  and  zeal ;  whose  labours  were 
wonderfully  blessed  among  the  Hurons; 
though  their  well-meant  exhortations 
were  rejected  by  inimical  Tribes;  and 
many  of  tlie  zealous  Fathers  in  time  of 
war,  suffered  martyrdom  for  the  profes- 
sion of  their  faith* 

The  superannuated  Survivors  of  this 
early  period  of  simplicity  and  devotion 
(it  was  considered  as  the  golden  Age  of 
Canada)  have  always  been  venerated 
as  the  Patriarchs  of  New  France.  Some 
of  them  were  yet  alive,  though  bending 


*  Among  other  affecting  instances  of  conversion,  which 
then  occurred,  amotig  the  Savaj^es,  so  called,  an  old  Chief- 
tain is  mentioned,  Ijy  Charlevoix,  of  a  luiiidred  years  of 
age  ;  who  had  been  baptis^ed,  by  the  Jesuits,  but  a  little 
before  his  death.  He  said,  in  his  la«l  tllne>^«,  rtitu  great 
tenderness  and  self-abasement:  '•  Seigiieni'l  Jai  commence 
"  liien  tard,  a  vous  aimer!"  Lord  I  1  have  ))eguu  to  love 
thee,  veiy  late. 

X  2 


!i 


I!- 


270 

beneath  the  weight  of  years  and  ser- 
vices, when  Charlevoix  made  his  first 
visit  to  the  New  World  ;  and  their  me- 
mory is  still  preserved  in  Canada,  with 
apostolic  veneration. 


M, 


I'i 


In  the  year  1629,  under  the  pretence 
aflfbrded  by  the  siege  of  Rochelle,  an 
English  fleet,  said  to  be  conducted  by  a 
French  Protestant,  who  was  inimical  to 
the  Colony,  attacked,  and  easily  made 
themselves  masters  of  Quebec ;  at  a 
time  when  the  infant  settlement  had  re- 
duced itself,  by  its  own  mismanage- 
ment, and  the  failure  or  neglect  of  its 
harvest,  to  a  state  so  nearly  approaching 
starvation,  that  they  could  scarcely  re- 
frain from  opening  their  gates  to  the 
enemy,  as  their  deliverer  from  the  still 
greater  evil,  with  which  they  had  been 
threatened.  The  transient  Conquest 
was,  however,  restored,  by  amicable 
compromise,    betweefi   the   two  Sove- 


! 


2'^1 


irs  and  ser- 
ade  his  first 
id  their  me- 
inada,  with 


\ie  pretence 

ochelle,    an 

ducted  by  a 

I  inimical  to 

easily  made 

)bec;    at  a 

lent  had  re- 

nismanage- 

glect  of  its 

proaching 

carcely  re- 

es   to  the 

Im  the  still 

had  been 

Conquest 

amicable 

\vo   Sove- 


reigns, at  the  treaty  of  St.  Germains, 
in  1632.* 

In    the  year  1635,  died   Samuel  de 
Champlain,  who  has  justly  been  deno- 

*  There  is  something  so  exquisitely  artless,  in  Charlevoix'^ 
account  of  the  different  manner  in  which  the  Englisli  Set- 
tlers treated  the  Indians,  from  that  by  which  the  French 
had  gained  the  affections  of  their  savage  iVeighbours,  that 
I  cannot  forbear  transcribing  it,  for  the  amusement  of  the 
Reader — "  The  English,  during  the  little  time  in  which  they 
"  had  been  masters  of  the  Country,  had  not  known  how  to 
"  acquire  the  good  will  of  the  Savages  :  The  Hurons  never 
•'  appeared  at  Quebec,  as  long  as  the  English  remained 
"  there.  The  other  Tribes  that  resided  nearer  to  the  capital ; 
'*'  many  of  whom,  on  account  of  particular  causes  of  dis- 
"  satisfaction,  had  openly  declared   against  us,  on  the  ap- 

•  proachof  the  English  Squadron,  showed  themselves  after- 
•'  ward  very  rarely.  All  were  disconcerted,  when,  upon 
•■•  taking  the  same  liberties  with  the  New  Comers,  which 
"  they  had  been  accustomed  to  do  with  the  French,  they 
•'•  perceived  that  such  manners  gave  offence. 

"  It  was  still  worse,  some  time  afterward,  when  they  saw 
"  themselves  driven  out  of  those  houses,  with  blows,  where> 
"  till  then,  they  had  entered  as  freely  as  into  their  own  ca- 

•  bins.  They  accordingly  kept  at  a  distance  from  the 
"  English  habitations  ;  and  nothing  afterward  more  strongly 
"  attached  them  to  our  interests,    than  this  difference  of 

•  mauKcrs  and  disposition,  between  the  two  Nations" 
fVol,  I.  p.  179,  Taris  Editioa  1744.] 


.,  i 

I 

*  1 

'k 

1  ■> 

! 

'    ).' 

( 

i' 

1^ 


272 

minated  the  Father  of  New  France. 
This  circumstance  cast  a  damp  upon 
the  joy  occasioned  hy  the  restoration  of 
the  Colony,  to  its  original  governors ; 
that  was  heightened,  a  year  or  two  after 
that  event,  by  a  general  sickness  among 
the  Hurons;  which  had  well  nigh  swept 
away  the  Indians  of  Canada,  hy  a 
bloody  flux.  The  French,  it  seems, 
were  seized  by  the  same  disorder:  but 
to  them  it  M'as  not  fatal ;  whether  owing 
to  the  diflerence  of  their  constitutions, 
or  the  different  manner  of  treating  the 
complaint. 

The  Court  had  early  forbidden  the 
Protestants  to  ijo  to  New  France,  and  it 
does  not  appear  that  any  of  that  long  per- 
secuted People  ever  established  them- 
selves permanently,  on  the  banks  of  the 
St.  Lawrence;  but  upon  the  Revocation  of 
the  Edict  of  Natilz,  toward  the  close  of 
this  century,  a  cor  idcrable  body  of  those 
humble    and    devout    Professors    of   the 


i 


;■  1   I 


H 


u  i 


.  >M  S 


^ew  France, 
I  damp  upon 
restoration  of 
il  governors ; 
r  or  two  after 
:knc?;s  among 
3II  nigh  swept 
inada,  by  a 
h,  it  seems, 
lisorder:  but 
hetber  owing 
constitutions. 
■  treating  the 


orbidden  the 
ranee,  and  it 
hat  long  per- 

ilished  thcm- 
hanks  of  the 

Revocation  of 
the  close  of 


-> 


ody  of  those 
jsors    of   the 


273 

Christian  faith,  who  might  say  with  St. 
Paul :  "  After  the  way  which  they  call 
"  heresy,  so  worship  I  the  God  of  my 
"  Fathers ;"  took  refuge  in  the  then  Pro- 
vince  of  New- York,  where  their  Posterity 
have  become  numerous   and   respectable. 

In  1642  the  Hollanders  of  Manhat- 
tan are  mentioned  as  furnishins:  the  Iro- 
quois  with  fire  arms,  and  spiritous  li- 
quors, and  from  this  period,  which  ap- 
pears to  have  terminated  the  golden  age 
of  Canada,  we  read  of  nothing  for  twenty 
years ;  but  wars  without,  and  conspiracies 
within;  and  the  whole  history  of  New 
France  is  but  a  tissue  of  attacks,  and 
reprisals;  of  missior»y,  received,  or  reject- 
ed ;  of  dissentions  between  tlse  r.ivil,  and 
ecclesiastir-j^  authorities, 

To  these  calamities  were  added  those 
of  famine  and  pestilence,  under  the  eflfects 
of  which  we  can  scarcely  wonder,  consi- 
dering the  temper  of  the  times,  that 
voices  wen  heard  vpoiii  earthy  and  portents 


, ;! 


I't  ■ 


|i  '      !) 


274 

appeared  in  the  air.  There  were  eclipses 
of  the  sun,  and  halos  round  the  moon. 
Strange  lights  were  seen  to  traverse  the  coun- 
try., in  the  day  ;  ai'd  globes  of  fire  gleamed 
among  the  shades  of  night.  Witches, 
however,  do  not  appear  to  b'^::.  ever 
haunted  Canada,  though  they  -were  not 
unheard  of,  at  this  period,  in  France. 


All  these  things  were  considered  as 
manifest  intimations  of  the  wrath  of  God ; 
and  such  was  indeed  the  situation  of  the 
unhappy  C^olonists  about  the  year  1660, 
that  they  did  not  dare  to  leave  the  forts, 
without  an  escort ;  and  during  some  time 
the  Sisters  of  the  two  Nunneries,  in  the 
outskirts  of  Quebec,  used  to  retire  into 
tl\e  city,  every  night,  for  safety.  The 
harvest  could  not  he  gathered  in,  and  se- 
rious thoughts  wi  r«  entertained  of  aban- 
doning the  Settlement,  and  returning  to 
France.  Seven  himdred  Iroquois  kept 
Quebec,  all  sic^imer,  in  a  state  of  siege. 
The  next  yeas,  however,  these  people 
(it  fieems  they  were  not  invetcrat(?  ene- 


i-  } 


275 


were  eclipses 
nd  the  moon, 
iverse  the  court' 
f  fire  gleamed 
It.  Witches, 
to  h-^vc  ever 
icy  were  not 
in  France. 


considered  as 

i^rath  of  God ; 

tuation  of  the 

le  year  1660, 

ave  the  forts, 

ig  some  time 

leries,  in  the 

o  retire   into 

safety.     The 

id  in,  and  se- 

ned  of  aban- 

returnins:   to 

oqnois    kept 

ite  of  siege. 

lese    people 

letcrate  ene- 


mies) sent  a  flag  down  the  great  river, 
with  proposals  of  peace,  demanding,  as  the 
only  condition,  the  residence  of  a  Mis- 
sionary among  them.  The  proposition 
was  gltidly  embraced  by  the  humbled 
Colonists ;  and  they  now  set  themselves 
to  lepair  the  losses  which  they  had  sus- 
tained, by  neglecting  to  cultivate  the  arts 
of  peace,  rather  than  those  of  war. 

In  the  year  1663  there  were  several 
hocks  of  an  Earthquake,  which  are  said 
to  have  been  felt  throughout  New  Eng- 
land, and  New  Holland.  The  Earth- 
quake would  appear  to  have  been  real : 
though  its  effects  are  evidently  exagge- 
rated by  the  credulous  Historian,  since, 
though  the  houses  were  shaken  from  side  to 
side^  none  of  them  fell  down  ;  and  in 
the  yawning  chasms  which  were  seen  to 
open  in  the  bosom  of  the  earthy  no  person 
appears  to  have  perished. 

But  all  these  supposed  indications  of 
the  wrath  of  that  merciful  Father,  and 


•  iS^^'^. 


a: 


i 


276 

all  gracious  Benefactor,  who  causetli 
his  sun  to  shine  upon  the  righteous  and 
the  wicked,  and  sendeth  rain  alike 
upon  the  just,  and  upon  the  unjust,  were 
now  at  an  end:  a  new  epoch  com- 
menced under  brighter  auspices ;  and 


■'.■  |-:,. 


5      ! 


!•     ' 


In  1663,  the  King  (Lewis  XIV.)  took 
the  Government  into  his  own  hands. 
His  Majesty  sent  out  the  Marquis  de 
Tracy  as  Viceroy  of  New  France  ;  the 
old  Trading  Company  before  mention- 
ed, relinquishing  the  privileges,  which 
had  turned  to  so  little  account  in  their 
hands,  to  a  new  Association,  called  the 
West  India  Company,  which  was  mo- 
delled by  the  great  Colbert. 


( 


I 

> 

■  !   i 


* ;  , 


It  was  in  the  year  1671,  that  the  first 
discovery  was  made  by  rambling  Voy- 
ageurs,  of  the  existence  of  that  great 
river  in  the  West,  which  was  destined 
for  the  future  outlet  of  an  industrious 
(perhaps  immense)  population,  by  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico.     It  now  only  served  to 


i 


277 


who  causetli 
righteous  and 
1  rain  alike 
e  unjust,  were 
epoch  com- 
uspices ;  and 

is  XIV.)  took 

I  own  hands. 

Marquis   de 

France ;  the 

fore  mention- 

ileges,  which 

:ount  in  their 

)n,  called  the 

iich  was  rao- 

t. 

that  the  first 
mbling  Voy- 
)f  that  great 
was  destined 
industrious 
tion,  by  the 
\y  served  to 


confirm  tlie  ambitious  views  of  France 
for  the  subjection  of  North  America. 

In  1 672  arrived  the  Count  de  Fron* 
tenac.  as  Governor  General ;  who  built 
fort  Cataraqui,  now  Kingston^  at  the  en- 
trance of  Lake  Ontario.  But  the 
haughty  manners  of  this  Nobleman 
gave  universal  umbrage  in  America, 
and  he  was  recalled  by  his  Royal  Mas- 
ter in  1682.  He  returned  again,  how- 
ever, in  1689,  with  renewed  powers,  the 
French  king  then  entertaining  the  pro- 
ject of  possessing  himself  of  the  more 
fertile  Province  of  New-York  ;  a  design 
which  appears  to  have  been  prevented, 
at  the  time,  by  an  irruption  of  the  Iro- 
quois ;  and  afterward  prudently  aban- 
doned. 

In  the  summer  of  1690,  before  the 
Count's  arrival,  the  Five  Nations  had 
attacked  Montreal.  They  landed  at  La 
Chine,   twelve    hundred    strong,    and 


*.:        . 


i 


n. 


y-- 


■'  1. 


'  ) 


sacked  all  the  Plantations  on  the  Island. 
The  French  at  the  8ame  time  had  been 
obliged  to  abandon  Calaruqui,  and  the 
neighbouring  Indians,  were  with  diffi- 
culty prevented  from  joining  the  Iro- 
quois, by  the  personal  influence  of  the 
Sieur  Perot,  then  Governor  of  Mon- 
treal, to  whom  they  were  strongly  at- 
tached. New  France  is  said  to  have 
been  on  this  occasion  reduced  almost 
as  low,  as  it  had  been  in  1663,  by  a 
concurrence  of  similar  circumstances. 

In  the  year  1690,  a  joint  invasion  of 
Canada  was  concerted  between  New 
England,  that  was  to  attack  Quebec  by 
sea,  and  New-York,  that  was  to  invest 
Montreal  by  land.  Major  Peter  Schuy- 
ler commanded  the  party  sent  from 
New-York,  having  been  joined  at  Alba- 
ny by  a  body  of  Indians,  some  of  whom 
were  now  always  enlisted  in  every 
x^uarrel  between  their  European  Neigh- 
bours.    He  penetrated  as  far  as   the 


i: 


\  '■ 


279 


an  the  Island, 
me  had  been 
iqui,  and  the 
-e  with  diffi. 
ling  the  Iro- 
uence  of  the 
lor  of  Mon- 

strongly  at- 
said  to  have 
need  almost 

1663,  by  a 
mstances. 

invasion  of 
tvveen  New 
Quebec  hy 
as  to  invest 
?ter  Scliuy- 
sent   from 
3d  atAlha- 
e  of  whom 
in     every 
an  Neigh- 
ar  as   the 


Prairie  de  la  Madeleine,  where  he  was 
repulsed  by  the  Count  de  Frontenac, 
who  was  there  posted,  with  a  large 
body  of  French  and  Indians.  The  fleet 
destined  to  attack  Quebec,  consisting 
of  thirty  sail,  fitted  out  in  the  Ports  of 
Massachusetts,  was  commanded  by  Sir 
William  Phips.  Arriving  b*^ "  "e  the 
town  on  the  5th  of  October,  Sii  vVilliam 
summoned  the  Count  de  Frontenac, 
who  had  by  this  time  returned  from 
Montreal,  to  surrender  the  place.  In 
the  chronicles  of  the  times  the  ponipous 
inessaae  is  said  to  have  received  an  itiso- 
lent  answer.  Upon  this  he  landed,  a  few 
miles  below,  thinking  to  take  the  town 
by  storm :  but  he  was  so  warmly  receiv- 
ed by  the  French  Commander,  that  he 
was  fain  to  re-embark,  in  the  night,  leav- 
ing behind  him  all  his  baggage  and  ar- 
tillery. The  fleet  now  cannonaded  the 
town,  but  with  little  eflfect;  and  being 
driven  from  their  moorings,  by  stress  of 
weather.  Sir  William  retired,  in  disor- 


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der,  on  the  12th  of  October,  under  the 
necessity  of  avoiding  the  approach  of 
vtinter.  Several  of  the  Ships  of  this 
unfortunate  Squadron  were  blown  off 
to  the  West  Indies,  as  they  endeavour- 
ed to  make  the  coast  of  New  England ; 
and  some  of  them  were  wrecked  in  the 
Bay  of  St.  Lawrence,  or  never  more 
heard  of.  Sir  William  himself  did  not 
arrive  at  Boston,  with  the  shattered  re- 
mainder, until  the    19th  of  November. 

Quebec  had  been,  for  the  first  time, 
regularly  fortified,  in  the  summer  of 
1690,  and  was  thus  enabled  to  resist  a 
formidable  attack,  which  it  would  have 
been  utterly  unable  to  withstand,  had  it 
taken  place  but  a  few  months  before. 

The  English  and  Dutch  Settlers,  upon 
the  more  favourable  coasts  and  rivers 
to  the  south,  had  now  become  suffi- 
ciently populous  and  powerful  to  stimu- 
late the  Iro(}uois  or  Five  Nations,  [See 


■,  I 


f^'-tr:- 


281 


r,  under  the 
approach  of 
hips  of  this 
e  blown  off 
endeavour- 
w  England  ; 
eked  in  the 
lever  more 
self  did  not 
lattered  re- 
November. 

e  first  time, 
summer  of 
to  resist  a 
^ould  have 
tand,  had  it 
ths  before. 

tiers,  upon 
md  rivers 
ome  suffi- 
l  to  stimu- 
ions,  [See 


the  Appendix  No.  III.)  to  commence 
hostilities  upon  the  French,  during  the 
frequent  wars  which  have  been  always 
taking  place  between  those  two  power- 
ful and  warlike  Nations. 

The  early  emigrations  were  princi- 
pally  from  the  Northern  coasts  of 
France,  which  would  seem  to  be  one  of 
the  reasons  why  no  Protestants  engag- 
ed in  this  Colonial  adventure,  the  great 
body  of  the  Protestants  of  France  be- 
ing situated  on  the  coasts  of  the  Medi- 
terranean ;  whilst  the  migrations  from 
England  were  almost  entirely  confined 
to  Dissenters  from  their  National  Es- 
tablishment ;  a  circumstance  which  has 
probably  had  no  small  share  in  pro- 
ducing the  various  fortunes  of  the  res- 
pective Colonies. 

The  Society  of  Jesuits    had    been 
among  the  first  to  locate  and  improve 

Y  2 


•Mir  i 


li 


m 

*    ;'"\. 


1^' 
li 


•it 


^ 


n 

f 

SI 


|H 


I' 


I'         ! 


*        ! 


ri 

ii 


ft  i       '   *  ! 


m .. 


!  « 


I! 


1 


282 

the  Island  of  Montreal,  which  they 
founded  agreeable  to  traditional  record, 
by  the  express  command  of  Lewis 
XIV.  as  far  up  the  great  river  as  it  was 
possible  for  ships  to  sail.  They  were 
followed  in  1657  by  the  Abbe  Quetus, 
and  the  brotherhood  of  St.  Sulpice. 

From  this  time,  till  the  Conquest  of 
Canada  by  the  English,  which  oc- 
curred in  the  year  1759,  there  conti- 
nued to  take  place,  at  distant  inter- 
vals, repeated  incursions,  on  both  sides, 
between  the  French  and  English  Pro- 
vinces, as  likewise  that  of  the  Dutch, 
with  various  degrees  of  success,  or 
rather  of  disappointment  and  disas- 
ter ;  for  the  French  never  gained  any 
ground  upon  the  neighbouring  frontier, 
and  the  hardy  Sons  of  New  England 
had  more  than  once  invaded  Canada, 
to  as  little  purpose,  or  rather  worse 
than  none;  particularly  in  the  year 
1711,  when  Adjured  Walker  was  cast 


■1^.^^, 


1 

^1 


'i 


283 


rhich  they 
)nal  record, 
of  Lewis 
Br  as  it  was 
They  were 
be  Quetus. 
Sulpice. 

Conquest  of 

which    oc- 

ihere  conti- 

staiit  inter- 

I  both  sides, 

nglish  Pro- 

the  Dutch, 

uccess,    or 

and    disas- 

ained  any 

ng  frontier, 

|w  England 

d  Canada, 

Ither  worse 

the  year 

r  was  cast 


away  in  the  Bay  of  St.  Lawrence, 
with  a  fleet  of  ships  intended  to  co- 
operate in  another  attack  upon  Que- 
bec; before  General  Abercrombie,  at 
the  head  of  fifteen  thousand  Men, 
was  repulsed  (in  1758)  by  the  French 
and  Indians,  at  Ticonderoga;  a  for- 
midable out  post  at  the  confluence 
of  Lake  George  and  Lake  Champlain 
— now  far  within  the  acknowledged 
boundary  of  the  United  States. 

It  was  before  this  savage  entrench- 
ment, the  remains  of  which  may  still 
be  traced,  by  those  who  sail  upon  those 
inland  waters,  that  the  first  Lord  Howe 
lost  his  life.  The  same  Nobleman, 
whose  two  Sons  afterward  acted  so  con- 
spicuous, yet  so  negative  a  part,  the 
one  as  Admiral,  the  other  as  Comman- 
der in  Chief,  in  the  struggle  that  soon 
afterward  took  place  between  the  Bri- 
tish Colonies,  and  the  Mother  Country, 
for  Continental  Independence. 


? 


ii: 


Ill ! 
1  r 


f 


1, 


.t 


t 


'wi 


'¥i 


m 


3  , 


'-i  ■ .' 

Ill: 


h' 


j^;;^' 


;f 


I' 


f       I     • 


IM 


284 

In  the  following  year  General  Wolfe 
succeeded  in  wresting  Quebec  out  of 
the  hands  of  the  Marquis  de  Montcalm, 
who  fell,  together  with  the  successlul 
Invader,  in  the  same  bloody  field.  The 
Marquis  is  said  to  have  replied,  with 
characteristic  magnanimity,  when  he 
was  told  that  he  had  but  a  few  hours  to 
live — "  So  much  the  better  ! — I  shall 
"  not  live  to  see  the  surrender  of  Que- 
"  bee." 

During  the  Revolutionary  contest,  in 
the  year  1775,  the  American  General 
Montgomery  fell,  in  like  manner,  dur- 
ing a  fruitless  attack  upon  Quebec. — 

And  the  British  General  Burgoyne 
in  1777,  having  descended  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  and  dissipated  his  mighty  force, 
among  the  trackless  woods,  which  then 
surrounded  it  on  all  sides,  was  fain,  at 
Saratoga,  to  strike  the  Royal  standard 
to    that  very  undisciplined  multitude 


i 


'285 


meral  Wolfe 
uebec  out  of 
e  Montcalm, 
le  successlul 
y  field.  The 
•eplied,  with 
y,  when  he 
few  hours  to 
er  ! — I  shall 
ider  of  Que- 


Y  contest,  in 
:an  General 
lanner,  dur- 
iuebec. — 

il  Burgoyne 
Lake  Cham- 
lighty  force, 
which  then 
was  fain,  at 
\al  standard 
1  multitude 


whom  his  fulminating  proclamation  from 
Illinois ;  for  we  are  not  the  only  People 
that  are  chargeable  with  similar  rho^ 
domontades,  had  begun  with  denomina- 
ting Rebels  and  Traitors. 

Five  and  thirty  years  after  this  event, 
in  the  year  1812,  during  another  strug- 
gle between  the  same  Parties,  in   sup- 
port of  National   pretensions,  the  Bri- 
tish  Commodore  Downie,  with  five  or 
six  sloops  of  war,  was   completely  dis- 
comfitted  by  M^Donough,  the  American 
Commander,  upon  the  same  Lake  Cham- 
plain  ;  and  the   trophies  of  his  victory, 
their  dismantled  hulks,  still  exhibit  their 
black  and  battered   sides,    among  the 
dark   firs,  and  frowning  precipices  of 
Wood  Creek. 

Sir  George  Provost,  who  had  pene- 
trated to  Pittsburgh,  at  the  head  of 
fifteen  thousand  men,  precipitately  re- 
treating to  St.  Johns,  upon  this  event. 


M 


it 


■W 


;i 


r, 


t. 


if  I 


i- 


i; 


} 

\ 

0-  i 


•11 1^:1 

■        I        ;  .1"    8   !      '    ' 


* 


it 


I'! 


1.  ^  I 


J  ? 


t" ' 


^11 


"y 


286 

taking  place  before  his  eyes,  without 
his  being  able  to  do  any  thing  to  pre- 
vent the  unexpected  catastrophe.* 

Such  are  the  melancholy  details  of 
National  Prowess,  alas!  that  it  should 
have  been  hitherto  in  vain  for  Moralists, 
Philosophers,  and  Poets,  under  the  im- 
mediate sanction  of  the  Prince  op 
Peace,  the  Captain  of  our  salvation, 
to  deprecate  the  unnecessary  effusion  of 
blood,  in  National  quarrels. — 


Ah !  what  more  shews  the  vanity  of  life, 

Than  to  behold  the  Nations  all  on  fire, 

In  cruel  broils  engaged,  and  deadly  strife  ; 

Most  Christian  Kings  inflamed  by  black  desire. 

With  honourable  Ruffians  in  their  hire, 

Cause  war  to  rage,  and  blood  around  to  pour  ; 

Of  this  sad  work,  when  each  begins  to  tire, 

They  set  them  down,  just  where  they  were  before : 

fill  for  new  scenes  of  woe  peace  shall  their  force  restore' 


■'  1  say  nothing  of  the  turgid  Manifestoes,  and  retrograde 

manoeuvres  of  General  Hull,  or  General   Sraythe,    upon 

Canadian  ground  ;  and  many  other  futile  attempts  on  both 

^ide«  to  penetrate  into  each  others  borderso—in  pure  br{\* 


I 


2B7 


es,  without 

ing  to  pre-  IHE  ANCIENT  NOBLESSE. 

ophe.* 

Op  the  ancient  Noblesse  of  Canada,  the 
ly  details  of  j  Counts  of  Longueil  and  St.  Lawrence 
at  it  should  I   have  loner  been   extinct ;  and    the    small 


or  Moralists, 
nder  the  im- 
1  Prince  op 
ir  salvation, 
ry  effusion  of 

lS. — 


life, 
fire, 

trife ; 
ack  desire, 
hire, 
nd  to  pour ; 

to  tire, 
ley  were  before : 


rs' 


remainder,  being  now  deprived  of  the  ad- 
vantages of  privilege  and  prepossession; 
and  having  no  longer  any  other  chance 
for  the  appointments  of  power  and  profit ; 
1  but  what  they  must  derive,  in  common 
with  their  fellow  subjects,  from  personal 
merit,  are  rapidly  sinking  into  decay, 
or  insignificance.  Events  which  they  are 
said  to  have  accelerated,  by  their  own 
inattention  to  qualify  themselves  for  public 
confidence ;  and  their  neglecting  to  pre- 
serve their  families  from  the  supposed 
contamination  of  Plebeian  intermixture. 


11  their  force  restore.  L 

mdo — or  on  marauding  expeditions,  witliout  end  or  aim— 

pnce  they  all  terminated,  as  nsual,  in  such  cases,  in  the  dig- 

toes    ajid  retrograde  Brace,  or  discomfiture,  of  the  Invader;  and  served  no  other 

eral   Sraythe,    uponB"rpose  than  to  add  another  lesson  to  the  many  already 

tile  attempts  on  both  ll'"g«'/e»  by  disappointed    Ambition,   upon  the   inevilablf 

rders— in  pure  bra'U'schaaces  of  offensive  war. 


,1 . 


i. 


I 


i' 


i 


.  \ 


'{Y    !  '' 


Will  •  > ' 


i  ■  -I 


;  I 


w 


■  .j't 


f  I 

I 


288 

Yet  there  still  remain  in  Montreal,  and 
at  Boucherville,  in  dignified  retirement, 
the  noble  Families  of  Lavigniere,  De 
Beau  Jeu,  Dechambault,  De  la  Nau- 
DiERE,  and  others.  And  at  Quebec  are 
yet  found  the  ancient  Chevaliers  de 
Lery. 

The  Baronies  of  Port  Neup  and  of 
LoNGEUiL,  preserve,  upon  parchment,  the 
obsolete  titles  of  their  ancient  Lords  ;  but 
those  dignities  no  longer  descend,  with  the 
estates ;  and  they  may  be  considered  as 
virtually  extinct,  since  the  honours  which 
they  claim  have  not  been  derived  from  the 
British  Crown. 

I  much  doubt  *  the  correctness  of  my 
orthography,  in  these  foreign  denomina- 
tions, but  I  have  now  no  means  of  cor- 
recting it ;  having  collected  most  of  this 
local  information,  on  Board  the  Steam 
Boat,  in  Lake  Champlain,  not  from 
printed    documents,    to  which   I  might 


2B9 


ontreal,  and 
retirement, 
LGNiERE,  De 
De  la  Nau- 
Quebec  are 
levaliers    de 


^EUP  and  of 
irchment,  the 
t  Lords ;  but 
;end,  with  the 
considered  as 
onours  which 
ived  from  the 


ctness  of  my 
m  denomina- 
leans  of  cor- 
most  of  this 
d  the  Steam 
not  from 
lich   I  might 


again  recur,  but  from  two  Canadian  Gen- 
tlemen, one  of  them  a  Father,  and  the 
other  a  Batchelor  Brother,  of  reserved 
habits,  but  o(  gentle  manners^  and  affections 
mild.*  They  reminded  me  of  Sterne's, 
"  my  Father  and  Uncle  Toby,"  calculat- 
ing the  possibilities  of  his  eldest  brother 
Bobby's  projected  tour  of  Europe.  For 
these  two  good  souls  were  going,  all  the 
way  to  Philadelphia^  to  accompany  the 
hope  of  the  Family  (a  well  grown  youth, 
whom  American  Parents  would  have  con- 
sidered fully  competent  to  the  task  of 
taking  care  of  himself)  on  his  way  to 
take  shipping  for  France;  to  perfect  him- 
self in  the  celebrated  Schools  of  Paris, 
for  the  practice  of  physic.  Which  it 
seems  is  a  profession  less  willingly  em- 
braced, in  Canada,  by  youths  of  familj^  or 
spirit,  than  that  of  the  Law — Creoles 
having  no  chance  for  preferment  in  the 
Army. 

'*  Pope. 
Z 


.  ,1 

l.i:  •' 


\.   \-: 


m 


i..'. 


!l\  1 


t    ' 

M  '    ■ 


'^ii  ■■*■ 


li 


i;  i-.  «  ■     i  ' 


290 

They  had  heard  the  well-merited 
fame  of  our  Penitentiary,  and  were  so- 
licitous to  inform  themselves  of  its  de- 
tails, as  there  is  a  probability  that  some, 
at  least,  of  its  beneficial  provisions, 
may  be  adopted,  in  the  new  places  of 
correction,  and  confinement,  which  are 
now  erecting  at  Montreal.  I  told  them 
what  I  knew  of  the  system,  and  recom- 
mended them  to  apply  to  the  benevo- 
lent Managers  of  that  Institution,  for 
the  information  which  I  know  they  will 
most  willingly  impart. 

Thus  the  benevolent  (may  I  not  say, 
with  reverence,  the  godlike)  plan  of 
correcting,  with  a  view  to  reform,  ra- 
ther than  punish,  is  generally  extend- 
ing itself,  from  Land  to  Land.  May  it 
one  day  pervade  the  World,  and  do 
away  the  barbarous  custom  of  inflicting 
sanguinary  punishments,  in  the  face  of 
day ;  with  which  the  streets  of  the  most 


291 


-merited 
were  so- 
af  it8  de- 
lial  some, 
povisions, 
places  of 
vhich  are 
told  them 
id  recom- 
B  benevo- 
ution,   for 
f  they  will 


I  not  say, 
plan  of 
form,  ra- 
iy  extend- 
May  it 
and  do 
inflicting 
e  face  of 
the  most 


polished  capitals  in  Europe,  now  shock 
the  feelings  of  the  American  Traveller ! 

And  here,  being  already  in  advance 
with  my  return,  let  me  mention,  with 
all  due  decorum,  and  attention  to  eti^ 
quette ;  as  1  intend  to  take  French  leave 
of  my  Reader,  the  moment  we  clear  the 
Isle  aux  Noix ;  that  as  we  passed  by 
Champlain,  the  first  American  town, 
and  port  of  entry,  seven  or  eight  fine 
Salmon  were  sent  aboard — for  the  Pre- 
9U)Ent's  dinner ;  to  be  landed  at  Bur- 
lington, on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
Lake ;  where  his  Excellency  was  ex- 
pected to  arrive  that  evening,  with  a 
numerous  Suite,  in  his  progress  through 
the  Eastern  States. 

I  should  not,  perhaps,  have  thought 
it  worth  while  to  mention  this  important 
circumstance ;  as  I  think  there  has  been, 
upon  this  occasion,  rather  too  much  of 
the  parade  of  Royalty  ;  but  that  I  wa8 


i'ti 


i 


1       ! 


.   ! 


292 

personally  interested  in  the  regal 
compliment. — We  were  allowed  to  take 
toll,  for  the  delivery ;  and  two  of  these 
princely  Fishes  were  served  up  upon 
our  own  table  next  day. 

They  were  displayed,  in  the  highest 
style  of  culinary  magnificence,  by  the 
Steward  (whom  I  had  put  upon  his  cre- 
dit to  gratify  the  Passengers.)  The 
Salmon  were  placed  whole  upon  the 
dishes,  as  Dolphins  are  usually  repre- 
sented, in  statuary;  with  their  mouths 
bent  inward,  their  backs  elegantly  curv- 
ed, over  their  heads,  and  their  forked 
tails  spread  upright. 

To  return  to  Montreal,  when  I  wa^ 
here  before,  I  entered  Canada  at  BufTa- 
loe,  the  Indian  village  at  the  outlet  of 
Lake  Erie;  got  wet  to  the  skin,  at  the 
Falls  of  Niagara  ;  crossed  Lake  On- 
tario, in  a  aloop,  for  it  was  before  the 


-1 .: 


;    ,! 


,  \ 


the  regal 
v^ed  to  take 
10  of  these 
3  up  upon 


the  highest 
ce,  by  the 
on  his  cre- 
jrs.)  The 
upon  the 
lally  repre- 
leir  mouths 
;antly  curv- 
leir  forked 


hen  I  wa^ 
la  at  BufTa- 
le  outlet  of 
kin,  at  the 
Lake  On- 
before  the 


293 

convenient  invention  of  Steam  Boats 
had    facilitated    internal    intercourse ; 
took  a   batteau  on   the  river  St.  Law- 
rence ;  stopped  a  night  in  the  Lake  of 
a  thousand  Islands  ;  shot  the  rapids  of 
the  Great  River,  at  the  rapids  of  the 
Longue  Sault,  the  Cedars,  and  the  SauU 
St.  Louis ;  and  thus  arrived  at  Montreal, 
by  that  protracted   line  of  water  com- 
munication, which,  if  we   include  the 
Mississippi,  upon   our  western  border, 
is  hardly  to  be  paralleled  in  the  rest  of 
the   world ;  forming  a  line  of  internal 
navigation  of  little  less  than  three  thou- 
sand miles  in  extent,  if  we  reckon  from 
the  Bay  of  St.  Lawrence,  to  the  Gulph 
of  Mexico. 

The  powerful  State  of  New-York  is 
now  tracing  a  canal  across  its  western 
territories;  which  will  communicate 
with  the  great  Lakes,  without  the  in- 
tervention of  the  St.  Lawrence ;  and  the 

z  2 


•'I  li  ^ 


■    \'       ■ 


l'^>'»:;;^ 


m 


■1 


i     '., 


■i\ 


l''\ 


\    I 


ir^^ 


294 

long-heads  iu  the  Canadian  Provinces 
begin  to  apprehend  the  success  of  a 
plan  almost  too  stupendous  for  the  ima- 
gination to  realize ;  which  if  it  should 
be  eventually  effected,  will  in  a  great 
measure  leave  them  without  the  main 
line  of  internal  communication ;  and  se- 
cure to  superior  enterprise  and  intelli- 
gence, the  future  benefits  of  the  North 
Western  Trade ;  send'ng  the  Peltries 
of  Canada,  by  a  shorter  cut,  to  Europe. 

I  shall  not  attempt  to  describe  the 
sensations  of  amazement  with  which  I 
contemplated  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  from 
the  table  rock;  which  trembled  under 
my  feet,  whilst  I  listened,  with  eager 
attention,  to  the  deep  toned  thunder, 
at  its  foot :  but  I  cannot  forbear  de- 
scribing, or  attempting  to  describe,  the 
alternate  emotions  of  terror,  and  de- 
light, with  which  I  descended,  in  breath- 
less silence,  the  Rapids  of  the  Longue 
Sault,    amid    the    threatening    waves. 


rth 


ii-  'I! 


295 


Provinces 
;cess  of  a 
r  the  ima- 
■  it  should 
in  a  great 

the  main 
n ;  and  se- 
md  intelli- 

the  North 
le  Peltries 
to  Europe. 

escribe  the 
th   which  I 
igara,  from 
bled  under 
,vith  eager 
d  thunder, 
orbear  de- 
jcribe,  the 
,  and  de- 
in  breath- 
e  Longue 
g    waves. 


which  curled  around  me,  in  every  varie- 
ty of  foaming  agitation. 

The  length  of  this  glittering  Rapid, 
to  the  sublime  and  beautiful  of  which, 
is  by  no  means  wanting,  the  accompa- 
niment of  terror,  is  estimated  at  nine 
miles,  and  the  Batteaux  usually  descend 
it,  in  twenty  minutes. 

The  Canadian  Watermen  mostly 
avoid  the  Rapids  of  St.  Louis,  by  land- 
ing above  them,  on  the  Island  of  Mon- 
treal :  but  the  American  Raftsmen  bid 
defiance  to  danger;  and,  in  spite  of  year- 
ly accidents,  by  which  whole  floats  of 
timber,  are  sometimes  shattered  to 
pieces,  and  their  Conductors  instantly 
ingulphed  by  the  waves;  they  persevere 
in  shooting  these  dangerous  currents. 
When  their  safety  entirely  depends 
upon  their  entering  the  Rapids,  in  a 
strait  direction,  the  smallest  deviation 
from    which   is    inevitably  fatal;    and 


r 


li 


1  ' 


;|. 


m 


1 


^fP' 


I,  : 


ill  ; 


(   I' 


(    i 


296 

whole  masts  of  pine  are  seen  immedi- 
ately, upon  the  occurrence  of  disaster, 
rearing  up  an  end,  in  the  stream,  or 
shivering  to  pieces,  upon  the  rocks. 

I  now  turn  my  face  to  the  Southward, 
with  renewed  delight;  crossing  the 
Great  River,  in  all  probability  for  the 
last  time,  belov\'  the  Island  of  St.  He' 
kne;  on  the  banks  of  which  a  Mill  is 
erected,  which  works  eight  pair  of 
stones,  by  the  mere  force  of  the  cur- 
rent; which  is  stopped  a  few  yards 
above,  and  let  out  again  a  few  yards 
below.  I  took  the  stage  for  La  Prairie, 
near  which  place  a  crowd  of  horses  and 
carriages  were  plunging,  through  mud 
and  water,  up  to  their  middles,  at  the 
most  imminent  risque  of  life  and  limb. 
Because  the  provident  Supervisors  had 
unfloored  the  old  bridge,  to  make  use 
of  the  timbers,  in  constructing  a  new 
one,  before  the  latter  was  fit  for  passen- 
gers.    Thus,  neither  were  now  passa- 


en  immedi- 
of  disaster, 
stream,  or 
}  rocks. 

Southward, 
ossing  the 
ity  for  the 

o(  St.  He- 
h  a  Mill  is 
fit   pair    of 

of  the  eur- 

few  yards 
I  few  yards 

La  Prairie, 
['  horses  and 
rough  mud 
dies,  at  the 
fe  and  limb, 
jrvisors  had 
to  make  use 
ting  a  new 
;  for  passen- 

now  passa- 


297 

ble;  and  anong  other  impatient  Vic- 
tims   to    the    awkward    arrangement, 
(which   is  given  as  a  fair  specimen  of 
Canadian  management)  was  the  Collec- 
tor of  the  Customs,  at  Montreal.     He 
was  in   a   light   gig,    with  a  powerful 
horse.     The  spirited  Animal  dashed  and 
plunged,  forward,  till  he  was  entangled 
among  bushes,  then  stopped  and  looked 
round,  with  eyes  full  of  meaning ;  shook 
his  head   at   the  vexatious  burthen  be- 
hind him;  and,  after  a   while,  dashed 
on   again,  with  headstrong  rage— then 
stopped  again  in  despair;  and   we   left 
them  both  inextricably  fixed  in  the  bog; 
for  no  Canadian  would  lend  a  hand  to 
relieve  the  Collector,  who,  it  seems,  has 
been  very  strict  in  the  execution  of  his 
invidious  ofEce. 

At  La  Prairie  we  changed  horses, 
and  drove  rapidly  across  the  flat  unin- 
teresting tract,  that  intervenes  betwixt 
(he  St,  Lawrence,  and  the  Sorel  j  where 


( 


'Sf     ! 


298 

the  Canadians  have  long  talked,  and 
will  continue  to  talk,  of  cutting  a  canal 
between  the  two  rivers,  to  approximate 
them  to  the  United  States.  We  stopped 
for  the  night  at  St.  Johns. 


'.!     I 


M^ 


m, 


i;::; 


:  ■  in. 


Next  morning  the  Steam  Boat  was 
not  to  sail  till  after  breakfast,  I  there- 
fore strolled  out  to  a  large  unfinished 
Hotel,  and  a  new  English  Church,  hard 
by.  The  Projector  of  these  buildings, 
I  understood,  was  an  enterprising  Yan- 
kee, as  Americans  are  called,  in  contempt, 
by  the  British  in  Canada,  (though  we 
consider  it  a  cognomen  at  least  as  dig- 
nified  as  that  of  John  Bxdl.  Before  the 
completion  of  his  plans,  this  unfortu- 
nate Adventurer  had  broke,  and  run 
away;  but  he  had  left  the  Buildings  be- 
hind him,  and  the  Public  must  be  con- 
sidered as  much  a  gainer  by  his  exer- 
tions, as  if  he  had  not  himself  been  a 
hscr  by  it.     What  is  this  but  a  practioaj 


i 


talked,  and 
ing  a  canal 
pproximate 
^Ve  stopped 


1  Boat  was 
ast,  I  there- 
e  unfinished 
Ihurch,  hard 
\e  buildings, 
prising  Yan- 
1,  in  contempt^ 
I  (though  we 
east  as  dig- 
Before  the 
his   unfortu- 
e,  and   run 
uildings  be- 
ust  be  con- 
y  his  exer- 
self  been  a 
t  a  practioaj 


29fi 

illustration  of  the  adage:  **  Private  vices, 
•'  Public  benefits?" 

In  the  Churchyard,  which  appeared 
to  have  been  used,  as  such,  before  the 
Church  was  erected,  I  noted,  among 
llie  frail  memorials,  erected  nigh,  a  stone 
which  was  inscribed,  in  English,  for 
the  English  Language  already  prevails 
here,  by  a  surviving  Mother,  to  the 
memory  of 

THE  YOUNGEST  OF  THREE  BROTHERS, 

who  were  all  born. 
On  the  25th  of  November, 

1786. 
He  died  at  the  age  of  23. 

A  humbler  stone  recorded  the  lamen- 
tation of  an  affectionate  and  faithful  Wife, 
for 

A  COMMON  SOLDIER 

of  the  49th  Regiment; 
proving  that  the  constancy  of  female  vir- 
tue, can  withstand  the  corruption  of  a 


I 


I  m 

ill 


V  I  y    1 


1 1 


t,i.-  ^ 


J  :n 


* 


M  I 


in 


3  .■>: 


••  !; 


v.." 


Ill 


;■>;  I  ^  I 

m 


■Mi-^i^ 


(»^i 


300 

Camp ;  while  it  alleviates  the  irksotneness 
of  perpetual  restraint,  in  the  deleterious 
atmosphere  of  indolence  ami  vice^*  by  the 
soothing  endearments  of  conjugal  attach^ 
ment. 

Many  of  the  Officers  in  the  Canadian 
Garrisons,  and  some  of  the  Soldiers,  it 
seems,  are  allowed  to  have  their  Wives, 
and  domestic  establishments.  Those  oi 
the  Officers  are  sometimes  Ladies  of  rank, 
and  quality;  who  have  married  for  love, 
and  accompanied  their  Husbands  into  the 
Siberia  of  Britain. 

The  bell  of  the  Steam  Boat  was  now 
ringing  for  departure,  and  1  gladly  as- 
cended the  deck,  that  was  to  convey  me 
to  Republican  America;  leaving  behind 
me,  without  regret,  the  glittering  para- 
phernalia of  Priestly  imposition,  and  all 
the  pomp,  and  circumstance,  of  —Military 
parade. 

'  Sir  Walter  Raleigh. 


■•Jl 


irksomeneas 
e  deleterious 
vice*  by  the 
ijugal  attach- 


:he  Canadian 
e  Soldiers,  it 
their  Wives, 
s.  Those  of 
adies  of  rank, 
ried  for  love, 
}ands  into  the 


oat  was  now 
1  gladly  as- 
to  convey  me 
javing  behind 
ittering  para- 
sition,  and  all 
of  —Military 


3f)I 

May  neither  Church  Establishments, 
nor  Standing  Armies,  ever  encroach  upon 
the  rights  of  conscience;  or  restrain  the 
privileges  of  Political  freedom,  in  that 
more  genial  climate,  and  more  fertile  soil, 
in  which  our  Wi^throps,  and  our  Penns, 
disseminated  the  germs  of  Civil  and  Re- 
ligious    liberty  ;    which    our    Franklins, 

and    our    Washingtons,     asserted,    and 
secured. 


l^INIS. 


■    :< 


if  ill 


It 


i-  s: 


r. 


;■ 


4' 


B^ 


♦  i 


i 


i^:   i     I 


4? 


f.r 


s 


•  ■■■ 

" 

(■■ 

^'1 

1 

1' 
j 

rJ 

ii: 
11. 

APPENDIX. 


No.  I. 


A  DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  BEAVER,  IN  CANADA. 


I  AM  unwilling  to  lay  down  my  pen,  till  I  have 
didded  some  account  of  that  sagacious  and  perse- 
vering animal,  the  Beaver.  He  is  the  proper  em- 
blem of  Republican  America,  and  was  so  adopted 
by  Franklin,  in  his  designs  for  the  Continental 
bills.  His  merits  have  been  strangely  overlooked 
by  European  Naturalists.  They  would  have 
found  him  an  exception  to  their  favourite  theory, 
that  Nature,  for  some  unknown  reason,  has  a  ten.' 
dency  to  belittle  her  productions  upon  the  new  Con- 
tinent. 

In  the  deep  recesses  of  Canadian  forests,  where 
the  Beaver  is  undisturbed  by  Man,  he  is  a  practical 
example  of  almost  every  virtue :  Ask  now,  said 
Solomon,  the  beasts,  and  they  shall  teach  thee.  The 
Indians  were  in  the  habit  of  prognosticating  the 
mildness  or  seventy  of  the  ensuing  winter,  from  the 
quantity  of  provision  laid  in  by  the  Bisavers,  for 
their  winter's  stock. 


I 


I 


» 


.;,i.i 
i.?i 


f\     ' 


U 


The  Boavfr  is  a  pattern  of  conjugal  fidelity,  and 
paternal  ( aie.  Laborious,  tlirifty,  frugal,  honest,, 
watchful,  and  ingenious.  He  submits  to  govern- 
nit'iit,  in  the  Republican  form  ;  for  the  benefits  of 
political  association  ;  but  is  never  known,  in  the 
most  powerful  communities,  to  make  depredations 
upon  his  weaker  Neighbours. 

On  the  first  arrival  of  Europeans,  in  Canada,  the 
Beaver  was  found  of  the  size  of  four  feet,  in  length, 
and  the  weight  of  fifty  or  sixty  lbs.  but  all  Ani- 
mals, hunted  for  their  furs,  or  skins,  have  become 
much  less,  or  rather  have  been  prevented  from 
becoming  so  large,  as  they  were  before  the  ap- 
proach of  civilized  Man.  He  is  now  rarely  met 
with  of  a  greater  length  than  three  feet,  or  a 
greater  heft  than  twenty-five  to  thirty  lbs. 

The  back  of  this  remarkable  animal  rises  like  an 
arc.  His  teeth  are  long,  broad,  strong,  and  sharp, 
four  of  these,  two  above,  and  two  below,  are  call- 
ed incisors.  These  teeth  project  one  or  two 
inches,  and  are  curved  like  a  gouge.  The  toes 
of  his  fore  feet  are  separated,  as  if  designed  to 
answer  the  purpose  of  fingers.  His  hind  feet  are 
fitted  with  webs,  adapted  to  the  purpose  of  swim- 
ming. His  tail  is  a  foot  long,  an  inch  thick,  and  five 
or  six  inches  broad  j  it  accordingly  serves  the 
purpose  of  a  trowel,  in  plastering  his  dam. 

Wherever  a  number  of   these    Animals    come 
together,  they  immediately  combine,  in  society,  to 


;  .'1 


H'M' 


a  fidelity,  ana 
rugal,  honest , 
ts  to  govern- 
he  benefits  of 
tnown,  in  the 
2  depredations 

n  Canada,  the 
feet,  in  length, 
5.  but  all  Ani- 
,  have  become 
revented  from 
before  the  ap- 
ow  rarely  met 
ree  feet,  or  a 
y  Ihs. 

lal  rises  like  an 
ng,  and  sharp, 
elow,  are  call- 
one  or  two 
Ire.  The  toes 
if  designed  to 
s  hind  feet  are 
pose  of  swim- 
1  thick,  and  five 
;ly  serves  the 
dam. 
Vnimals  come 
in  society,  to 


III 


perform  the  common  business  of  constructing  their 
habitations;  apparently  actincr  under  the  most 
intelligent  design.  Though  then-  i5(  no  appearance 
indicating  the  authority  of  a  chief,  or  Leader  j 
yet  no  contention  or  disagreement  is  ever  observed 
among  them. 

When  a  sufficient  number  of  them  is  collected  to 
form  a  town,  the  Public  business  is  first  attended  to ; 
and,  as  they  are  amphibious  animals,  provision  is 
to  be  made  for  spending  their  time,  occasionally, 
both  in,  and  out  of  the  water.  In  conformity  to 
this  law  of  their  nature,  they  seek  a  situation  which 
Is  adapted  to  both  these  purposes. 

With  this  view,  a  lake  or  pond,  sometimes  a 
running  stream,  is  pitched  upon.  If  it  be  a  lake, 
or  pond,  the  water  in  it  is  always  deep  enough 
to  admit  of  their  swimming  under  the  ice.  If  it  be 
a  stream,  it  is  always  such  a  stream  as  will  form  a 
pond,  that  shall  be  every  way  convenient  for  their 
purpose ;  and  such  is  their  forecast,  that  they  never 
fix  upon  a  situation  that  will  not  eventually  answer 
their  views. 

Their  next  business  is  to  construct  a  dam.  This 
is  always  placed  in  the  most  convenient  part  of  the 
stream  ;  the  form  of  it  is  either  strait,  rounding, 
or  angular,  as  the  peculiarities  of  the  situation  re- 
quire ;  and  no  human  ingenuity  could  improve 
their  labours,  in  these  respects. 

A  a  2 


il;'^ 


It' 


1       ! 


N:l'   ' 


;4fl 


'        I 


»vt 


I       ^       ! 


IV 


The  materials  they  use,  are  wood,  and  Earth.— 
They  choose  a  tree  on  the  river  side,  which  will 
readily  fall  across  the  stream ;  and  some  of  them 
apply  themselves,  with  diligence,  to  cut  it  through 
with  their  teeth.  Others  cut  down  smaller  trees, 
which  they  divide  into  equal,  and  convenient, 
lengths.  Some  drag  these  pieces  to  the  brink  of 
the  river,  and  others  swim  with  them  to  the  spot, 
where  the  dam  is  forming. 

As  many  as  can  find  room,  are  engaged  in 
sinking  one  end  of  these  stakes  ;  and  as  many  more 
in  raising,  fixing,  and  securing,  the  other  ends  of 
them.  Others  are  employed,  at  the  same  time,  in 
carrying  on  the  plastering  part  of  the  work.  The 
earth  is  brought  in  their  mouths,  formed  into  a  kind 
of  mortar,  with  their  feet  and  tails ;  and  this  is 
spread  over  the  intervals,  between  ihe  stakes  ; 
saplings  and  twigs  being  occasionally  interwoven, 
with  the  mud  and  slime. 

Where  two  or  three  hundred  Beavers  are  united, 
tliese  dams  are  from  six  to  twelve  feet  thick,  at  the 
bottom  ;  at  the  top,  not  more  than  two  or  three. — 
In  that  part  of  the  dam  which  is  opposed  to  the 
« urrent,  the  stakes  are  placed  obliquely:  but  on 
that  side  where  the  water  is  to  fall  over,  they  are 
placed  in  a  perpendicular  direction. 

These  dams  are  sometimes  a  hundred  feet  in 
length,  and  always  of  the  exact  height,  which  wil! 
answer  their  purposeg. 


m 


II;  I 


and  Earth.— 

de,  wliich  will 

some  of  them 

cut  it  through 

smaller  trees, 

id    convenient, 

o  the  brink  of 

m  to  the  spot, 

re  engaged  in 
d  as  many  more 
e  other  ends  of 
le  same  time,  in 
the  work.  The 
-med  into  a  kind 
ils;  and  this  is 
en  ihe  stakes  ; 
Uy  interwoven, 

Lvers  are  united, 
[eet  thick,  at  the 
Itwo  or  three. — 
opposed  to  the 
|liquely:  but  on 
over,  they  are 

hundred  feet  in 
hght,  which  will 


The  ponds  thus  formed  sometimes  cover  five  or 
six  hundred  acres.  They  j.!,enerally  spread  over 
grounds  abounding  with  trees  and  bushes  of  tlic 
softest  wood,  Maple,  ]>irch.  Poplar,  Willow,  &c. 
and  to  preserve  the  dams  against  inundation,  the 
Beaver  always  leaves  sluices  near  the  middle,  for 
the  redundant  water  to  pass  off. 

When  the  Public  works  are  completed,  the 
Beavers  separate  into  small  companies,  to  build 
cabins  or  house-  for  themselves.  These  are 
built  upon  piles,  along  the  borders  of  the  pond. — 
They  are  of  an  oval  construction,  resembling  a 
bee-hive,  and  they  vary  from  four  to  ten  feet  in 
diameter,  according  to  the  number  of  families 
they  are  to  accommodate. 

These  dwellings  are  never  less  than  two  stories 
high,  generally  three  ;  and  sometimes  they  contain 
four  apartments.  The  walls  of  these  are  from  two 
to  three  feet  thick,  formed  of  the  same  materials 
with  the  dams.  On  the  inside  they  are  made 
smooth,  but  left  rough  without,  being  rendered  im- 
penetrable to  rain.  The  lower  story  is  about  two 
feet  high,  tlie  second  is  formed  by  a  floor  of  sticks, 
covered  with  mud,  and  the  upper  apartment  ter- 
minates witii  an  arched  roof.  Through  each  floor 
there  is  a  passage,  and  the  uppermost  floor  is 
always  above  the  level  of  the  water. 

Each  of  these  huts  has  two  doors,  one  on  the 
land  side,  to  admit  of  their  going  out,  and  seeking 


ft 


i't 


1 1 


•'      } 


•■m 


m 


i  h 


i'H'i" 


?■■' 


■'M 


t', 


i: 


VI 


provision  that  way;  another  under  the  water,  and 
below  where  it  freezes,  to  preserve  tlieir  communi- 
cation with  the  pond. 

No  association  of  people  can  possibly  appear 
more  happy,  or  be  better  regulated,  than  the  tribe 
of  Beavers.  The  male  and  female  always  pair. — 
In  September  they  lay  up  their  winter's  stock,  which 
consists  of  bark,  aud  the  tender  twigs  of  trees. — 
Then  commences  the  season  of  love,  and  repose  ; 
and  during  the  winter  they  remain  within ;  every  one 
enjoying  the  fruits  of  his  own  labour,  without 
pilfering  from  any  other. 

Towards  spring  the  females  bring  forth  their 
young,  to  the  number  of  three  or  four.  Soon  after  the 
male  retires  to  gather  firs,  and  vegetables,  as  the 
spring  opens ;  but  the  dam  remains  at  home  to 
nurse,  and  rear  up  their  young.  The  male  oc- 
casionally returns  home,  but  not  to  tarry,  until 
the  end  of  the  year:  Yet  if  any  injury  should 
happen  to  their  works,  the  whole  Society  are  soon 
collected,  by  some  unknown  means,  and  they  join 
all  their  forces  to  repair  the  injury,  which  has  been 
sustained. 

Whenever  an  enemy  approaches  their  village,  the 
Beaver  who  first  perceives  the  unwelcome  stranger, 
strikes  on  the  water  with  his  tail,  to  give  notice  of 
the  approaching  danger ;  and  the  whole  careful 
Tribe  instantly  plunges  into  the  water. — Let  ii? 


VII 


le  water,  and 
2ir  communi- 

ssibly  appear 
than  the  tribe 
Iways  pair. — 
's  stock,  which 
rs  of  trees. — 
,  and  repose  j 
hin  •,  every  one 
ibour,  without 

ng  forth  their 
.  Soon  after  the 
etables,  as  the 
ns  at  home  to 

The  male  oc- 

o  tarry,  until 
injury   should 

iciety  are  soon 
and  they  join 

which  has  been 

heir  village,  the 
llcome  stranger, 
give  notice  of 
whole   careful 
rater.— Let  w 


tear  no  more  of  the  haff  reasoning  Elephant !  He 
is  but  a  ninny  to  the  Beaver  of  America. 

The  fur  of  this  wonderful  Animal,  which  is  so 
much  prized  in  Commerce,  is  an  interior  coat,  there 
being  a  double  growth  of  it,  over  all  parts  of  the 
body,  the  outer  and  longer  being  of  an  inferior 
quality,  while  the  inner,  being  thus  preserved  from 
air,  and  injury,  is  thick,  fine,  and  as  soft  as  silk 
— The  sacks  which  contain  the  precious  oil,  used  in 
medicine,  under  the  name  of  castoreum,  lie  con- 
cealed, behind  the  kidneys. 

They  vary  very  much  in  colour.  The  most  es- 
teemed shade  is  black,  and  they  have  been  found 
perfectly  white ;  but  the  general  colour  of  the  spe- 
cies, is  a  chesnut  brown. 

In  a  state  of  nature,  undisturbed  by  Man,  this 
provident  animal  lives  fifteen  or  twenty  years,  and 
prepares    for    several    generations,   adapting   hjs. 
dwellings  to  the  increase  of  his  Family. 


No.  II. 

BOUCHETTES  TOPOGRAPHICAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 
THE  PROVINCE  OF  LOWER  CANADA. 

After  my  sketches  of  Canada  were  written,  and 
iince  the  work  was  committed  to  press,  I  have  met 
with  a  Book,  which  has  been  lately  published,  in. 


.Ik 


I'     I: 

■'■•     1   ■ 


10' 


m  ■' 


fi. 


41  i 


in 

fjl: 


viu 


London,  by  the  Surveyor  General  of  Lower  Canada, 
(Joseph  Bouchette.)  It  is  a  Royal  8vo.  of  640 
pages,  with  a  copious  Appendix. 

The  work  is  professedly  topographical,  and  in 
that  department  of  science,  is  not  without  the  me- 
rits of  accuracy  and  minuteness  ;  but  in  general 
views,  and  complicated  estimates,  it  is  so  palpably 
erroneous,  that  I  have  not  thought  it  necessary  to 
correct  either  my  statements,  or  my  inferences, 
from  such  equivocal  authority. 

This  Book,  evidently  calculated  for  th*;  meridian 
of  St.  James's,  is  dedicated  to  the  Prince  Regent, 
by  special  permission.  It  speaks  with  supercilious 
impertinence  of  the  War  of  the  Revolution,  as 
'*  the  period  of  the  Rebellion  ;'^  and  describes 
every  battle  that  occurred  off  the  great  Lakes,  dur- 
ing the  last  National  struggle,  as  highly  honour- 
able to  the  British  Arms  ! 

As  for  the  Prince,  Qui  vult  decipi,  decipiatur  :* 
but  the  British  Nation  deserves  to  be  informed,  not 
only  of — the  value  ;  but  of — the  cost  of  Canada. 
It  is  the  whole  drift  of  this  splendid  work  (price 
seven  Guineas)  to  countenance  the  Ministry,  in 
their  excessive  expenditures  for  the  support  of  Ca- 
nada; and  to  persuade  the  People  of  England, 
that  they  are  not  altogether  useless  to  the  Nation. 
Industriously  obscuring  the  momentous  truth,  that. 

*  If  he  chooses  to  be  deceived-  let  him  be  dcceiveC 


hi. 


,ower  Canada, 
asvo.  of  640 

iphlcal,  and  in 
Without  the  jne- 
but  in  general 
it  is  so  palpably 
i  it  necessary  t» 
my  inferences, 

for  th*:  meridian 
e  Prince  Regent, 
with  supercilious 
,e  Revolution,  as 
"    and  describes     1 
great  Lakes,  dur- 
Is  highly  honour- 

cipi,  decipiatur  :* 
be  informed,  not 
cost  of  Canada. 

endid  work  (price 
the   Ministry,  in 

;he  support  of  Ca- 
.ople  of  England, 

"lless  to  the  Nation. 
,entous  truth,  that. 


rx 


in  chtrishing  Upper  Canada,  Great  Britain  is  bul 
sowing  the  seeds  of  another  "  Rebellion,"  for  ano- 
ther Washington  to  gather. 

English  Canada,  and  French  Canada,  are  tw« 
different  things ;  the  latter  will  probably  be  long 
defended  by  the  poverty  of  its  soil,  and  the  severi- 
ty of  its  climate,  behind  the  insuperable  barrier  of 
its  gigantic  River,  and  the  trackless  wilderness, 
by  which  it  is  flanked. 

To  interest  his  Royal  Patron,  the  Population  of 
Lower  Canada  is  carried,  by  I  know  not  what 
ratio  of  preternatural  increase,  to  a  grand  total  of 
three  hundred  and  fifty  thousand !  and  the  local,  or 
sedentary  Militia,  including  all  Males,  from  sixteen 
to  sixty,  is  pushed,  it  seems — by  the  Report  of  the 
Adjutant  General,  (who,  no  doubt,  has  substantial 
reasons  for  the  amount  of  his  return)  to  the  formi- 
dable number  of  fifty-two  thousand  five  hundred  ! — 

So  much  for  presumption — now  for  proof. — It 
shall  be  furnished  by  the  Author  himself. 

"  In  the  year  l663,"  says  he,  "  tlie  Population 
"  of  Canada,  or,  as  it  was  then  called.  La  Nouvelle 
"  Francej  very  little  exceeded  seven  thousand 
"  souls."     [p.  6.] 

"  In  1714,  they  could  hardly  number  twenty 
"  thousand  souls."     [p.  6.] 

"  In  1759,  the  Population  may  be  estimated  at 
"  seventy  theusand."    [p.  7.] 


It  him  be  dcceiveC 


m 


1 1:  ■■ 


I 


i  'i  , 
•  ! 


I 


"  From  this  date,"  according  to  Boucliette,  "  the 
'•  prosperity  of  Canada  has  been  progressive  (the 
"  loss  of  National  spirit  and  subjection  to  Foreign 
^'  domination  notwithstanding !)  Some  increase  in 
"  the  Population,"  says  he,  "  is  accordingly  ob- 
*'  servable  :  for  in  the  year  1775,  it  amounted  to 
*'  something  more  than  ninety  thousand."     [p.  8.J 

No  great  increase  is  made  out  here — only  twenty 
thousand  from  '.'iy  to  '75,  a  p(Miod  Df  time  in  which 
particular  portions  of  the  li^nited  States  have  near- 
ly trebled  their  numbers. 

But  now  comes  the  increase  of  tlie  French  in 
Canada  :  however  tardy  it  had  been  from  1663  to 
1714  ;  and  from  17J4  to  1759  ;  nay,  even  from  the 
period  of  the  "  Rebellion"  to  the  then  present 
moment. — That  is  to  say,  between  the  years 
1775  and  1814.  "  In  the  course  of  only  thirty- 
"  nine  years  (to  use  this  credulous  calculator's 
own  words)  a  capitation  [what  capitation  ?J 
"  shows  an  increase  to  have  taken  place  from  nine- 
,  "  ty  thousand,  to  no  less  a  number  than  two  hun- 
"  dred  and  seventy-five  thousand  native  Canadians, 
"  Descendants  of  the  original  French  Settlers.  An 
''  estimate,"  as  the  Author  himself  exclaims,  in 
amaze,  "  which  will  be  viewed,  with  astonishment j 
"  by  every  rejiecting  person  /" 

But — Courage,  gentle  Reader,  this  astonishing 
calculation  is  purely  anticipatory — at  least  half  the 
number  will  vanish  before  the  peDetraiii;g  ray  of 


Ci 
0\ 


hi    t    ! 


XI 


cliette, "  tbc 
Tess'ivc  (the 
1  to  Foreign 
le  increase  in 
ordingly    ob- 
amounted  to 
tnd."     [P-S.] 
._only  twenty 
time  ill  which 
tes  have  ncar- 

the  French  in 

n  from  l663  to 

even  from  the 

I    then    present 

een    the   years 

,  of  only  thirty- 

ous   calculator's 

t    capitation  ?] 

place  from  nine- 

r  than  two  hun- 

ative  Canadians, 

ich  Settlers.    An 

• 

elf  exclaims,  m 
ith  astonishmenti 

this  astonishing 
Lat  least  half  the 

Letraiuig  ray  of 


Truth. — Like  ••  the  Jail  and  Court-House  at  Trois 
''  Rivieres,"  which  this  same  credi/Ue  witness  calls, 
"  handsome,  modern,  stone  Edifices." — Whereas 
the  walls  of  the  former  (when  I  was  there,  about 
two  years  after  this  description  was  published,  for 
th  e  satisfaction  of  the  good  Citizens  of  London,  as 
to  the  existing  state  of  things  in  Canada)  were 
raised  at  least  one  story  and  a  half  high,  and  may 

perhaps,  be  fairly  roofed  in,  by  this  time But 

the  latter  is  literally — a  Castle  in  the  air,  not  a 
shovel  full  of  earth  having  been  then  dug  towards 
its  foundation. 

This  magnificent  work,  however,  besides  being 
embellished  with  Views,  and  illustrated  by  Plots 
and  Plans,  is  accompanied  with  a  General  Map  of 
North  America — from  Lake  VVinnipeegtothe  Island 
of  Newfoundland,  and  from  Hudson's  Bay  to  the 
City  of  Washington ;  which  is,  perhaps,  the  most 
accurate,  and  certainly  is  the  most  elegant,  repre- 
sentation of  the  innumerable  Lakes  and  Rivers, 
contained  within  that  circle,  that  has  ever  been  de- 
lineated.' 

This  beautiful  Map  is  concentrated  into  two 
sheets  :  but  there  is  another  exhibition  of  Upper 
and  Lower  Canada,  including  the  Provinces  of 
New  Brunswick,  and  Nova  Scotia,  and  the  adja- 
cent parts  of  the  United  States,  which  is  diffused 
over  ten  sheets  of  super  Royal,  on  a  scale  large 

B  b 


I 


'I 


'I 


Xll 

enough  to  bring  out  every  cross  road ;  to  swell  tin? 
sides  of  every  particular  mountain  ;  and  to  trace  the 
limits  of  every  individual  settlement,  upon  tlie 
long  extended  frontier  between  two  jealous  Nations. 
The  motives  for  taking  this  birds  eye  view  of  dis- 
puted boundaries,  may  be,  at  least,  problemati- 
cal :  but  the  execution  of  it  does  infinite  credit  to 
the  talents  of  "'his  Majesty's  Surveyor  General," 
as  a  draughtsman,  and  topographer. 


No.  III. 


i!  ' 


THE    LEAGUE    OF    THE    IROQUOIS  OR  FIVE 
NATIONS  OF  THE  WEST. 


■1. 


The  justly  celebrated  Confederacy  of  Five  Na- 
tions, which  existed,  in  the  heart  of  the  New  Conti- 
nent, when  the  first  Migrators  landed  from  Europe, 
was  a  powerful  league,  which  had  existed  ibr  ages, 
like  that   of  the  States  of  Holland,  or  the  ancient  | 
republics  of    Greece ;  for  the  purpose  of  mutual  I 
defence,  against  powerful  Neighbours;  but  without 
impairing  the  independent  jurisdiction  of  any  of  I 
its  Members. 

It  affords  a  striking  parallel  to  that  potent  and! 
wide  spread  Confederation^  which  has  since  takeii| 


.  to  swell  the 
aid  to  trace  the 

mi,   «PO"    ^^^ 
,alous  Nations. 

.ye  view  of  ^is- 
^st,  probleniafi- 
infinite  credit  to 
,eyor  General,' 
er. 


1 


! 


pOlS  OR  FIVE 
VEST. 

.racyofFiveNa- 
of  the  New  Conti- 
,nded  from  Europe, 
,d  existed  for  ages, 
and,  or  the  ancient 
purpose  of  mutual 
ibours;  but  without 

isdiction  of  any  ofl 

A  to  that  potent  and! 
,ich  has  since  taken 


XIU 


place,  among  the  succeeding  Occupants  of  the  sam* 
rich  rnd  well  watered  Territory;  which  is  adapt* 
ed,  in  an  unexampled  degree,  to  carry  to  their 
utmost  limits,  the  active  energies  of  civilized 
Man. 

This  aboriginal  Association,  which  is  entitled  to 
more  respectful  notice,  than  has  ever  yet  been  al- 
lotted to  it,  in  American  History  :  but  to  which 
ample,  though  tardy,  justice  will  be  done  by  our 
future  Poets  and  Historians  (May  it  not  be  when 
too  late  to  trace  the  features  of  their  character,  with 
the  precision  of  which  the  interesting  subject  is  yet 
susceptible  !)  then  consisted  of  the  Mohawks,  the 
Oneidas,  the  Onondagoes,  the  Cayugas,  and  the 
Sennekaas. 

Of  these,  the  Mohawks,  then  situated  on  the  fertile 
banks  of  the  river  which  still  bears  their  name,  were 
considered  as  the  chief  Nation,  or  Tribe ;  but  the 
great  Council  of  the  Confederacy  assembled  annu- 
ally at  Onondaga  (I  have  myself  seen  the  great  Wig 
Warn,  sixty  or  eighty  feet  in  length,  in  which  was 
kindled  the  council  fire,  before  the  dereliction  of 
National  Sovereignty,  to  the  Congress  of  the  Unit- 
ed States,  had  dissolved  the  aboriginal  union)  on 
account  of  the  central  situation  of  that  place,  wliich 
ii.ndered  it  convenient  for  the  assembling  of  the 
confederated  Tribes.  [See  Clinton's  Discourse  os 
the  Red  Men  of  America,  delivered  before  the 
New- York  Historical  Society,  in  1811. J 


fl 


•i'-l 


* 


1 1 ' 


ii  • 


f  (  ; 


I   .  '  I 


I 


:i.i; 


XIV 


Of  this  powerful  league,  whicli  i?  supposed  to 
have  once  extended  the  terror  of  its  arms,  from  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico,  to  Hudson's  Bay,  the  Sennekaas 
are  the  only  Tribe  that  is  now  numerous  enough 
to  be  of  any  political  importance.  They  are  yet 
to  be  found,  in  large  bodies,  upon  the  eastern  banks 
of  Lake  Erie  j  where  the  curious  Traveller  may 
still  witness,  at  their  occusional  councils,  all  the 
striking  peculiarities  of  the  Indian  character. 

An  old  War  Chief,  called  the  Farmer's  Brother, 
whose  person  and  ft-atures  are  stamped  with  all 
the  hardihood  of  Antiquity,  is  yet  living ;  and  the 
Chief  Speaker,  vulgarly  called  Red  Jacket ;  but 
in  his  own  tongue,  with  appropriate  (lualilication, 
Tsekuyeaathaw,  the  Mdn  fhat  keeps  you  awake, 
may  still  be  heard,  occasionally,  delivering  orations 
that  Cicero  or  Demosthenes  would  have  listened 
to  with  delight.  I  liav^  myself  lipard  this  native 
Orator  speak,  for  hours  together  at  one  of  the  last 
public  treaties,  that  was  held  with  this  Tribe.  His 
discourse  was  then  taken  in  short  hand.  It  v/as 
upon  local  policy,  and  therefore  is  now  forgotten, 
though  it  went  through  the  newspapers  of  the  day; 
but  some  of  his  speeches,  in  reply  to  the  solicitations 
of  different  Missionaries  to  the  Sennokaa  Tribe,  t® 
change  the  Religion  of  their  Fathers,  for  the 
Christian  Creed,  have  been  often  reprinted  in  our 
periodical  Publications,  and  can  only  be  read  widi 


m 


ny 


n-  ■ 


i-it; 


XV 


I  supposed  to 
irms,  from  the 
he  Sennekaas 
kerous  enough 
They  are  yet 
eastern  banks 
Traveller  may 
ancils,   all  the 
haracter. 
rmer's  Brother, 
imped   with  all  . 
iiving;  and  the 
ed  Jacket ;  but 
te  qualUication, 
cpa  yon  ciwakej 
ivering  orations 
:l  have   listened 
-ard  this  native 
It  one  of  the  last 
this  Tribe.     His 
t  hand.     It  v/as 
s  now  forgotten, 
iers  of  the  day ; 
the  solicitations 
[inckaa  Tribe,  t® 
«^athers,   for   the 
reprinted  in  our 
nly  be  read  witli 


astonishment. — Tlioy  elevate  the  untutored  Indian 
far  above  Popes'  elegant  apology  for  that  supposed 
ignorance,  and  imbecility,  with  which  self-compla- 
cent Europeans  have  been  pleased  to  designate  the 
wild  Man  of  America. 

When  Father  Charlevoix,  a  learned  Jesuit,  first 
assisted,  as  the  French  say,  at  an  Indian  Council 
(for  the  gift  of  elo(juence  was  not  confined  to  the 
Orators  of  the  Five  Nations)  he  could  not  believe 
that  the  Jesuit,  who  a<ted  as  Interpreter,  was  not 
imposing  ui)on  the  Audience,  the  efiusions  of  his  own 
brilliant  iinaulimtion. 

Yet  Charlevoix  had  been  accustomed  to  the  ora- 
tions of  Masillon,  and  Boiudaloue  ;  when  those  emi- 
nent Orators  dis|)liiye(l  all  the  powers  of  puljiit  elo- 
quence, at  the  funerals  of  Princes,  upon  the  fertile 
subject  of  the  vanity  of  life;  but  he  confesses  that 
he  had  never  heard  any  thing  so  interesting,  as  the 
extempore  discourses  of  an  Indian  Chief. 

Even  those  who  have  had  the  enviable  privilege 
of  listening,  in  the  Dritish  House  of  Commons,  to 

The  popular  harangue,  the  tart  reply, 
The  logic,  and  the  wisdom,  and  the  wit, 

that  flowed,  spontaneous,  from  Rnrke,  and  Sheri- 
dan, and  Fox,  and  Pitt,  during  the  most  splendid 
period  of  British  oratory,  have  freely  acknowledged, 


■  I 


i<   ) 

i, , 


r! 


XVI 


that  they  never  hoard  any  thing  more  impressive, 
tiiai)  an  Indian  speecii  ,  accompanied,  a»  it  usually 
b,  witU  all  the  graces  of  unconstrained  delivery. 


f 


I    t 


;     > 


/.    L  J.    HARPER,    PRINTEUS. 

'W*'VWVWVWVV\%*VWVVWW» 


t   ; 


■ii 


114  4-\;i3C 


more  impressive, 
nied,  a-  it  usually 
ained  delivery. 


